Happy April Fool's Day
NEW YORK CORNER: Put Out at the Waverly Inn by John Mariani NEW RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX PROPERTIES FOR 2007 NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR: Beyond Grüner Veltliner by John Mariani QUICK BYTES ATLANTA RESTAURANTS 2007 By Suzanne Wright
Located on Midtown’s club-hopping Crescent Street, Saga is in the shadow of several office towers and popular at lunch with attorneys. The contemporary interiors are handsome and understated, with deep butterscotch leather, dark woods, red accents, fresh flowers in five-foot high stands. There’s also a bar and an enclosed outdoor patio. The room is nicely lighted though not so romantic that it makes the business types uncomfortable, and not so bright that it quashes romance. After a pre-dessert of a macaroon-like chocolate cake with flaked coconut, we ordered the huckleberry and buttermilk pie and spiced chocolate truffle cake. The tangy tart was the hands-down winner, though, skeptic that I am, I’m not sure if huckleberries grow in either locale. Concentrics Restaurants, Bob Amick/Todd Rushing culinary juggernaut (One Midtown Kitchen, Two Urban Licks, Piebar, et al), continues with Trois (1180 Peachtree Street; 404-815-3337), the duo’s most ambitious project to date. Located in a contemporary building designed by Calatrava, Trois is a three-story tour-de-force overlooking the future site of the Atlanta Symphony Center that features a separate bar, dining room and private dining facility. The crisp design is courtesy of a talent trio: modernist architect Kenneth Hobgood and designer John Oetgen, and Dewhurst & MacFarland of London and New York City. A cool, chic is achieved with white terrazzo floors and lots of glass, including a glass staircase connected the first and second floors. Sheer curtains, wood finished trim and a palate of deep green leather and wintergreen velvet upholstery. The center of the dining room features a suspended art gallery with rotating original photography. Atlanta artist Mali Azima’s work, whose work appears on the menus, is currently featured. White-clad servers on both visits were a bit erratic, at one moment reserved, at another moment intrusive, often removing plates without permission (perhaps we were just resting!) Shaun Doty has committed to Inman Park. In addition to opening Shaun’s (1029 Edgewood Ave. 404-577-4358), across the street from the Inman Park Marta station, the baseball cap-wearing 37-year-old chef has moved to the heart of this historic but culinarily underserved ‘hood. Lucky neighbors. The restaurant, situated prominently on the corner of a residential street, brings to mind bistros in San Francisco, Boston, New York, even Paris. The Johnson Studio has shown admirable restraint with the 3,000-square foot space that formerly housed Deacon Burton and the Inman Park Patio. With large street-facing windows, simple red brick floors, taupe walls, creamy wainscoting and tables topped with butcher paper over white linen feel Shaker-inspired The menu is printed daily to accommodate menu or wine list changes. It’s a comfortable restaurant sure to find an audience with those in the zip code. NEW
YORK CORNER
by John Mariani Put Out at the Waverly Inn 16 Bank Street No Telephone As I pushed my way through the rude, hard-to-find dark door of The Waverly Inn in Greenwich Village at 6:45 on a Sunday evening, I felt much as Alice must have on attending the Mad Tea Party: “The table was a large one, but the three were all crowded together at one corner of it: `No room! No room!' they cried out when they saw Alice coming. `There's plenty of room!' said Alice indignantly, and she sat down in a large arm-chair at one end of the table.” A slick-haired maître d’ asked me, “Do you have a reservation?” I answered, "I was under the impression one can’t make a reservation. I called your phone number but it’s not in service.” “Yes, and no one would pick it up if it were.” “Then how could I possibly make a reservation?” The slick-haired man seemed to yawn and raise his eyebrows. “Why, you just show up two days before you wish to come, between the hours of one and six P.M. and ask.” “And I’ll get a reservation?" “Maybe yes, maybe no.” “Do you have a table tonight?” “Do we have a table tonight? Yes, of course.” With that I was led past a cramped bar through a completely empty, very dark dining room arrayed with red banquettes, which everyone knows is for “A” list guests, to a rear room pretentiously called The Conservatory, which would be quite charming, with a fireplace and garden atmosphere, but which everyone knows is Siberia. Here I sat with a lot of people who looked very humbled and forlorn, trying desperately to pretend they’d not been summarily snubbed. We were handed a menu that read--after several months of the restaurant's being in operation--PREVIEW MENU. Curioser and curioser. The waitstaff couldn’t be nicer, the food couldn’t be more comforting, though the bartender hadn't a clue how to make a daiquiri. "We don't have the ingredients," was the report. Bewildered, I told the messenger, "You have limes?" "Yessir." "You have rum?" "Oh, yessir." You have sugar?" "Certainly, sir." "Then why can't you make a daiquiri?" With that he went back to the bar and returned with quite a nicely made cocktail. One good thing that is very, very good is a first-rate, buttery, flaky, hot biscuit. They give you. . . one; you may ask for another. You can get macaroni and cheese with truffles for $55, but most of the prices aren't particularly high, with most entrees in the mid-$20s. The winelist is short, acceptably priced, and thoroughly boring. No one is going to get very excited by the beet salad, which would not rank high among 23,000 examples now offered in NYC restaurants, and the crab cake was a bit fishy and bland. Short ribs were nothing to go crazy over either, about as good as hundreds of others. A delightful, steamy, well-crusted chicken pot pie, however, really hit the spot on a winter's eve, brimming with chunks of chicken and vegetables in a good, thick broth. Other dishes include clam chowder, pork chops, and steak, nice WASP-y food for people who are usually on diets anyway and couldn't care less about. For dessert the chocolate cake is yet another cliché that I barely touched after one bite. Upon exiting, in the dim light of the “A” dining room, which has a $50,000 Edward Sorel mural with caricatures of Anais Nin, Thelonious Monk, Norman Mailer, Dylan Thomas, and many others, I thought I spotted Uma Thurman, but it was too dark to tell. Suffice it to say, other famous bottoms, including those with names like Gwyneth, Mariah, and others known by odd first names, have adorned those banquettes since the century-old Waverly Inn was taken over in November by Graydon Carter, 56, the imperious, chain-smoking Canadian-born editor-in-chief of Conde-Nast’s Vanity Fair, whose signature wing-like hair actually resembles that of the Mad Hatter. Famous as a flaming Left-winger in his editor’s pages, he is decidedly un-egalitarian when it comes to the proles who want to eat at his restaurant. "Don't take it personally," a waiter told a reporter from the NY Post, "It's not you, it's us." Apparently there are only two ways one can get a reservation--either by begging for one in person from the restaurant's manager named Emil (rhymes with eel), or by knowing Graydon Carter's phone number--and you’d better be one of his ten thousand closest celebrity friends! Carter, with partners Sean MacPherson and Eric Goode (owners of the Bowery Hotel that just happened to be profiled in Vanity Fair), has carried elitism to a torturous extreme here, for while other New York restaurateurs may play favoritism with celebs and regular patrons, no restaurant in New York so blatantly seems not to want your business at all. And here’s the wrinkle: A few years back, when forced to wait a few minutes for a table at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s TriBeCa Chinese restaurant, 66, Carter stormed out and rang up London’s meanest food critic, A. A. Gill, to fly over ASAP and to review 66 in Vanity Fair, which curiously had never before or since published restaurant reviews. Gill was, as expected, suitably savage. Among other things, Gill wrote that the dumplings tasted like “fishy liver-filled condoms.” The reviews of Waverly Inn haven’t been quite that brutal. Frank Bruni in the New York Times wrote his review as if done by a socialite named Frannie, who gushed, “No kidding, Graydon, Waverly is sweet. It’s not just about an A-list daisy chain of writers, actors, models. It’s not just about ringside seats to the latest Perelman-Barkin smackdown. It’s about the ease and privilege of being among people who reflect your brainiest, prettiest sense of self.” Why is this man laughing? New York Magazine's Adam Platt (who once wrote for Carter) puffed, "I didn’t actually beg to get my table at the Waverly Inn. I had other people do it for me. And once inside, I must admit, I felt pretty damn good about myself. . . . And who were all these other people? Who knew? Who cared? Tonight we were all members of the same select and cozy club." Which makes one wonder why Carter (above) bothered opening up to scrutiny a public restaurant whose non-famous riffraff (which would include most of his readers) are there only to ogle or to carp. Why didn’t he just open a private club and keep the riffraff out? Then he could gloat, as Oscar Wilde noted, “One should never criticize society. Only those who can’t get into it do that.” Vanity Fair indeed. The Waverly Inn is open for dinner each evening; Appetizers run $8-$15, entrees $13-$55. NEW RELAIS & CHATEAUX PROPERTIES FOR 2007 The 2007 edition of
the Relais &
Chateaux
International Guide features 460 independently owned hotels and
gourmet restaurants (Relais Gourmands) in 50 countries. Twenty-one new
entries have been introduced this year. Europe has the most properties,
with 326, the U.S. has 57, Asia, 17, and Africa, 20. Visit www.relaischateaux.com.
The new properties (those in red are Relais Gourmands) are: -Hotel
Brittany
-Hôtel du Castellet -Hôtel Imperial Garoupe -Kasteel Withof - - -Villa la Vedetta, Firenze, Italy - - -Marataba -Family Li Imperial Cuisine Properties that have gained membership after the release of the 2007 Guide: -Pousada Estrela d’Agua -Sanur, Bali, Indonesia NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR Beyond
Grüner Veltliner--The Other Wines of Austria by John Mariani
There are, however, other Austrian wines that have been produced for ages that I think are considerably better and more interesting. One of the reasons I don’t think you hear much about them is that the Austrian wine industry has take a long time to recover from a scandal in 1985 when several criminal Austrian wine merchants doctored their wines with a chemical, diethylene glycol used in a antifreeze as a sweetener. You'd have to drink a helluva lot of diethylene glycol to cause any health problem, but Austrian exports plummeted to a fifth of what they’d been. Thus, Grüner Veltliner is now being promoted as a light, refreshing, easy-to-drink, not very expensive white wine—which just happens to smell like Exxon. Today 32,000 Austrian wine producers make about 2.5 hectoliters (66 million gallons) of wine, about one-fourth of Austrian wines from the same grapes tend to be drier than German examples, with a residual sugar level generally under 4 grams per liter. The wineries are modern, with cold fermentation and stainless steel tanks, and many white wines spend time in oak barrels. Just about all the Austrian wines exported to the The cheapest of the wines I sampled was a Leo Hillinger Welschriesling 2004 ($9, which is entirely un-related to the riesling grape. The Welschriesling (the name means “foreign riesling”) is widely planted throughout Nigl Kremsleiten Riesling 2004 ($39) comes from the Kremstal area (Krems is a medieval town there), and Nigl is one of the better growers. I found the nose unappealing and the acid surprisingly low, so that after drinking a half glass of it, with a risotto made with Gorgonzola that it should have help cut through, I didn’t care for another drop. Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling Zöbing April 2002 ($40) comes from the Kamtal region, south of Kremstal, around the town of Pichler Riesling Loibner Berg 2000 ($75) [www.fx-pichler.at] is from the westernmost region of Wachau, with small production but very high quality, from grapes grown along the hills of the I deliberately threw myself a curve ball by including—blind—a bottle of Franz Hirtzberger Smaragd 2005 ($55, made from Grüner Veltliner, which makes up about 45 percent of his production; 40 percent is made from riesling. My notes read, “very slight, with low acid, and a slight, chemical tasting sweetness.” I was not surprised when I revealed the label. By the way, three of the bottles I purchased (but not the Hillinger or Pichler) had screwtops, not corks, and I’m getting to love the ease with which they open and stay fresh. John Mariani's weekly wine column appears in Bloomberg Muse News, from which this story was adapted. Bloomberg News covers Culture from art, books, and theater to wine, travel, and food on a daily basis, and some of its articles play of the Saturday Bloomberg Radio and TV. YOU NEED WHAT? A concierge's pledge to "do the impossible" is often sorely tested by guests. Here, compiled by InterContinental Hotels & Resorts' Global Concierge Advisory Board, and Denis T. C. O'Brien, International President of Les Clefs d'Or society, are a few of guests' odder requests. * A request to enroll a guest's 16 year-old in a prestigious private high-school for the next 10 days. * A thousand red roses and a violinist to stage a secret surprise inside a guest's girlfriend's room. * 300 kilometers of barbwire shipped back to a guest's farm in * A list of local, late-night swingers' clubs that accept walk-ins * A hairdresser's chair sent to the guest room then picked up again in one hour * Help mapping out a marriage proposal--with a guaranteed "yes" response--then a flight by helicopter to an inaccessible mountain lake, with only a radio telephone and champagne * A Thai guest last fall (2006) said he was in desperate need of the Sept. 17, 1957 issue of the New York Times, as his father was pictured on page four of this edition, the day of Thailand's coup d'état. * A woman who asked the concierge "to please tell my husband that he is to be a father. I'm still in shock!" * A pair of baby shoes bronzed, by * One hundred empty jelly jars, for a marmalade work of art. MR. NAPOLETANA WILL NOW BRING OUT THE MAIN COURSE "Calamari alla Napoletana
brought squid, with lots of the tender
tentacles we love. . . . Parmesan gnocchi brought feathery
dumplings with an earthy mushroom
sauce. . . . A prettily presented trio of bluefin tuna
brought only passable
components of a slice of seared tuna."--excerpts from recent reviews
by M.H. Reed of the New
York Times.
Everett Potter's Travel Report: I
consider this the best
and savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a columnist
for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and
Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski
and a frequent contributor to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this
site is for people who take their travel seriously," says Potter.
"For travelers who want to learn about special places but don’t
necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of
staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about
five-star places as five-star experiences." To go to his
blog click on the logo below:
Tennis Resorts Online: A Critical Guide to the World's Best Tennis Resorts and Tennis Camps, published by ROGER COX, who has spent more than two decades writing about tennis travel, including a 17-year stretch for Tennis magazine. He has also written for Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel, New York Magazine, Travel & Leisure, Esquire, Money, USTA Magazine, Men's Journal, and The Robb Report. He has authored two books-The World's Best Tennis Vacations (Stephen Greene Press/Viking Penguin, 1990) and The Best Places to Stay in the Rockies (Houghton Mifflin, 1992 & 1994), and the Melbourne (Australia) chapter to the Wall Street Journal Business Guide to Cities of the Pacific Rim (Fodor's Travel Guides, 1991). Click on the logo below to go to the site. QUICK BYTES *
From
April 1-May 31, The Lodge at Sonoma in
California is offering a "Sip, Cycle and Savor" 2-night package, incl.
deluxe Cottage guestroom, bottle of Sonoma county wine upon arrival,
dinner for
two at Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar, two 50- minute massages or body
exfoliations; bike rentals; Complimentary shuttle service to Sonoma
plaza for
shopping.
*
The Old Edwards Inn and Spa in
* From now through
April 30, Pink Beach Club
in Tucker's Town, * NYU’s School of Continuing and Professional Studies and the James Beard Foundation pair up for new food and wine courses , incl. Go Behind the Scenes with Celebrity Chefs like Chef Sirio Maccioni, Suvir Saran, Bill Yosses and Michel Nischan; Educate Yourself in the World of Wine and Spirits: Becoming a Wine Expert: The Essentials of Wine Tasting; * In * On April 12 NYC’s Zócalo will offer 3 tequilas, 3 new cocktails, and three mini-tacos for $10 per person, with all proceeds to benefit City Harvest. Along with Bobby and Laura Shapiro of Zócalo, tequila expert Clarena Mosquera will be on hand to lead the event, a history and talk on tequila styles and production, with the tasting. Call 212-717-7772. *
On April 15 chef Susan Goss
and wine director Drew Goss of
* On April 16, NYC’s TriBeCa Grill will present a Spanish wine dinner * On April 17 Chef Tenney Flynn of GW Fins in * On
April 22, a Gruaud
Larose Dinner will be held at Cetrella
Restaurant in
*
From
April 28-30, Bimini Bay Resort and
the Bahamian Culinary Team will host the First Annual Bimini Bay Resort
Food
Festival, led by Pres. of the Bahamian Culinary Association Chef Wayde
Sweeting
and his staff, offering 7 interactive cooking stations. Joining the
Bahamian
culinary celebration will be the crew of ESPN2 to film the series
BXRL07,
Billfishing Xtreme Release League Tournament. $20
pp and $10 for
* The Grace Bay
Club at Providenciales,
Turks & Caicos Islands, is offering the following
amenities to couples / families staying
6 days / 5 nights in the Penthouse: Airport Limo transfers; oceanfront
three-bedroom Penthouse; Personal Chef and Concierge; Unlimited meals
in any of
Club’s restaurants; Full-day Luxury Yacht Cruise with lunch by Grace
Bay Club; Unlimited
Anani Spa Treatments; Unlimited Limo Service; Daily continental
breakfast; Island
Tour and Lunch at Da Conch Shack; Unlimited Horseback Riding; and more.
Call 800-946-575. www.gracebayclub.com.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher:
John Mariani. Contributing Writers: Robert Mariani, Naomi
Kooker, Kirsten Skogerson, Edward Brivio, Mort
Hochstein, Suzanne Wright. Contributing
Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery, Bobby Pirillo. Technical
Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.
Any of John Mariani's books below
may be ordered from amazon.com by clicking on the cover image.
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