MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
"L'Asperge" (1880) by Édouard Manet
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE BORDEAUX, Part One By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER ZAIKA By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR Taking Prosecco To A Higher Level By Pat Savoie ❖❖❖ BORDEAUX, Part One By John Mariani
Bordeaux, with a
quarter of a million inhabitants, is assuredly
the world’s most famous wine
capital, and its historic center is on UNESCO’s
World Heritage List for its
18th century architecture and 362 historic
monuments. Nevertheless, it is a
solidly industrial city, and few
Bordelais have achieved international renown—artist Odilon
Rédon, dramatist
Jean Anouilh and film director René Clement
pretty much complete the list.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
230 East 44th Street (near 2nd Avenue)By John Mariani ZAIKA
212-697-9797 The
area around the United Nations has always been
fertile territory for Asian
restaurants—it’s where the phenomenon of
Hunan/Sichuan cuisine began back in
the 1970s—and Zaika adds to the Indian entries
in a highly contemporary way,
not least in a décor of hand-painted pillars
depicting Buddhas, a glittering
bar, and rippled walls lighted in violet
colorings. Open daily for lunch and dinner. ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Taking
Prosecco To A Higher Level Italy produces about 150 million bottles of Prosecco a year, all from the Veneto region, which includes Venice, of which 65% is exported. Prosecco is labeled by the region where it’s produced using DOC or DOCG (the higher quality). DOC is produced in several provinces spanning the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. DOCG can be made only in the province of Veneto between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene and in the smaller area of Asolo and Montello. Prosecco wine is made primarily from the Glera grape (right), which used to be called the Prosecco grape but was renamed in 2009 for the ancient Glera, which is the same grape by DNA. Up to 15% of other permitted grapes may be used. Styles are based on the amount of bubbles: spumante ("sparkling"), frizzante (semi-sparkling), or tranquillo (still). In addition, Prosecco can be made by two different production methods. The vast majority is made by the Charmat, or “tank,” method, with fermentation taking place in large stainless steel tanks, rather than in the bottle. The wine has less contact with the “lees,” or yeast sediment, and generally less complexity. The second approach—the so-called méthode champenoise—is how actual Champagne is made. The main difference between the two methods is that the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. After several months, the sediment is disgorged and the bottle corked. And the level of sweetness, as in Champagne, varies based on the levels of sugar remaining after fermentation. The most common designations for Prosecco are: Extra Brut Under 6 grams of sugar per liter Brut 6-15 grams Extra Dry 12-20 grams Sec or Dry 19-35 grams But there is a trend developing—one experienced with other wines—in which interest and tastes are moving to more complex, expressive and expensive examples of Prosecco. These still represent a small portion of sales, but are growing rapidly. The sweet spot for these wines is the small production area of Asolo and Montello, around the towns of Asolo and Montebelluna. Asolo (left) is known as the “Pearl of Treviso.” It and the smaller region of Montello are set at the foot of the Venetian Alps, where the landscape is mountainous to the north while to the south plains slope toward the Venetian Lagoon and Venice, 30 miles away. I visited this area in May as a guest of the Consorzio Vini Asolo Montello and tasted wines from many of the 40 producers (over 85% of total) who are members of the Consorzio. These wines are a step above the rest, with intense freshness, minerality, salinity, and fruit notes. Many were made by the Traditional Method. All are classified as DOCG. From 2013 to 2016 Asolo and Montello Prosecco Superiore DOCG production increased by about 800%, reaching in 2017 a total of over 10.6 million bottles. But only a few producers, many of whom are fairly small, have importers in the U.S., though several are seeking representation. Following are some of the standouts. Bele Casel – Brother and sister Luca and Paola Ferraro now run the winery that their parents started over three decades ago. Luca makes some fine Proseccos, including the popular Extra Dry (about $15 in U.S.). The wines show the minerality and salinity that are hallmarks of the region. Montelvini - Armando Serena founded this winery over 50 years ago. He is now the President of the Consortium Vini Asolo Montello, and his son, Roberto, runs the winery and makes the wine. They produce about 4.5 million bottles, of which 1.5 million are Prosecco. While they are exporting to most of the rest of the world, they are currently not in the U.S. due to a law suit over the brand name of the winery. (They do sell “recyclable kegs” to on-premise buyers here.) Their Brut and Extra Dry are perfect examples of the Asolo region. Conte Loredan Gasparini – This winery, located in Venegazzù, Montello, has been in existence for about 60 years. It was purchased in the 1970s by the Palla family, and Lorenzo Palla is now the winemaker. The Pallas planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbech (Italian spelling) and produce some lovely red wines as well as a Brut and Extra Dry Prosecco (about $15). Ida Agnoletti Winery – Ms Agnoletti personifies the independent female wine maker. She is opinionated and, in her own words, a “contrarian.” Her wines are lush and distinctive. Her Proseccos (she doesn’t like calling them as such) are fine and she makes a still white Manzoni and a lovely Merlot, a grape that does well in this area. Her red blend is excellent. She used to export to the U.S. a few years ago. She is currently seeking an importer. Tenuta Baron – Founded by Nico Baron in the 1970s, the winery is managed by his wife, Enrica Beatrice, and son, Giacomo, in collaboration with Andrea Sbrissa. Their Brut, Extra Dry and Extra Brut (about $15) are excellent. The Syrah-Merlot blend Conamore ($17) is nicely fruity. Case Paolin – Emilio Pozzobon purchased this Montello estate in the 1970s; he and his family had been sharecroppers previously. They planted more vines and today his sons, Diego, Adelino and Mirco, run the operation, where production is organic. Lovely Brut and Extra Dry Proseccos ($17) and red wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot-Carmenere ($17) are worth seeking out. La Ghisolana – Excellent Prosecco from vines over 100 years old. The family also runs an Agriturismo inn. Organic. Pat del Colmel – In addition to the Proseccos, wines from native grapes such as Recantina and Rabbiosa are made by this small winery (above). They follow organic practices but are not certified. LETERRE – Lovely Prosecco, plus good reds (Cabernet Sauvignon and blends). Tenuta Amadio – Sylvia and Simone Rech reclaimed a hundred-year-old family property and created a sustainable winery. They bottled their first vintage in 2014. The Brut and Extra Dry and great examples of Asolo Prosecco. They are actively seeking an importer. ❖❖❖
Hot-pot
parlor Jiamener in
Chengdu, China, recently opened its doors
and offered a month of all-you-can-eat unlimited
food for $25, but customers ate the restaurant out
of business, falling $100,000 in debt
after just two weeks of operation.
❖❖❖
Wine
Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners Wine is a joy year-round but
in cooler weather one
grape varietal has really taken center stage in
my daily activities – that most Italian of
grapes, Sangiovese, and its ultimate expression
– Brunello di Montalcino.
Recommendations for Celebrating
Sangiovese BelnerO Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
– A refined
cuvée of noble red grapes perfected by our pioneering
clonal research. This dark beauty, BelnerO, is
produced at our innovative winery, chosen 11
consecutive years as Italy’s Premier Vineyard Estate.
Fermented in our patented temperature controlled
French oak and aged approximately 2 additional years.
Unfiltered, and Nitrogen bottled to minimize sulfites. Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino –
Rich, round, velvety and intensely
aromatic, with flavor hints of licorice, cherry, and
spices. Brunello di Montalcino possesses an intense
ruby-red color, and a depth, complexity and opulence
that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste.
Unfiltered after 1998 vintage. Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino – Brunello's "younger brother," produced
from select Sangiovese grapes and aged in barrique for
10 to 12 months. Deep ruby-red, elegant, vibrant,
well-balanced and stylish with a dry velvety
finish.
Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva – A single vineyard selection of our most
historically outstanding Sangiovese, aged five years
before release, the additional year more than that
required of Brunello including 6 months in barrel and
6 months more in bottle to grant its “Riserva”
designation. Incredible
elegance and harmony. Intense with lots of fruit and
subtle wood influence. Round, complete, well balanced
with hints of chocolate and berries. Unfiltered after
1998. Poggio alle Mura – The first tangible result of years of
intensive clonal research on Montalcino’s native
Sangiovese grape.
Estate bottled from the splendidly sun drenched
vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello from which
it takes its name.
The Brunello
di Montalcino is seductive, silky and smoky. Deep ruby
in color with an expressive bouquet of violets, fruits
and berries as well as cigar box, cedar and exotic
spices. The Rosso
di Montalcino is also intense ruby red. The bouquet
is fresh and fruity with typical varietal notes of
cherry and blackberry, enriched by more complex hints
of licorice, tobacco and hazelnut. It is full
bodied, yet with a soft structure, and a surprisingly
long finish. The Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is deep ruby red with garnet
reflections and a rich, ample bouquet that hints of
prune jam, coffee, cacao and a light balsamic note. It is full
and powerful, with ripe and gentle tannins that make
it velvety and harmonious; this wine is supported by a
pleasing minerality that to me speaks soundly of that
special hillsidein southern Montalcino. SummuS – A wine of towering elegance, SummuS is an
extraordinary blend of Sangiovese which contributes
body; Cabernet Sauvignon for fruit and structure; and
Syrah for elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. An elegant,
complex and harmonious red wine.
Cum Laude – A complex and elegant red which graduated
“With Honors,” characterized by aromas of juicy
berries and fresh spices. Centine – A Cuvee that is more than half
Sangiovese, the balanced consisting of equal parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified in
a firm, round style that easily accompanies a wide
range of dishes, this is a smooth and fragrantly
satisfying wine with international character, and a
perennial favorite at my own dinner table.
Banfi Chianti Superiore – The “Superiore” designation signifies
stricter government regulations regarding production
and aging requirements, as compared to regular
Chianti. An
intense ruby red wine with fruit forward aromas and
floral notes. This
is a round wine with well-balanced acidity and fruit.
Banfi Chianti Classico – An enduring classic: alluring
bouquet of black fruit and violets; rich flavors of
cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity
for dining.
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva – Produced from select grapes grown in the
"Classico" region of Chianti, this dry, fruity and
well-balanced red has a full bouquet reminiscent of
violets.
Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico – This is our newest entry into the Chianti
arena, coming from a 99 acre estate in Castellina, the
heart of the Chianti Classico region. The wine is
a captivating mauve red that smells of cherry, plum
and blackberry with hints of spice. It is
round, full and balanced with very good
acidity.
Col di Sasso – Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Luscious,
complex and soft with persistent notes of fruit and
great Italian style structure.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
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