MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
"Barbecue" by Gil Elvgren (1954) HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY! ❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE DINING OUT IN BORDEAUX By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LA PULPERIA By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR WHAT I'M DRINKING FOR THE FOURTH By John Mariani ❖❖❖ DINING OUT IN BORDEAUX By John Mariani Langoustines mayonnaise at Le Petit Commerce Here is an array of good ones,
most open Sundays, when others are not.
LE
BISTROT LE GABRIEL
Inside, this
restaurant has a gourmet dining room, but the
bustling bistro is outside, splendidly set right
on the Place de la Bourse across from the River
Garonne. Under the summer sun expansive
umbrellas cast much needed shade on the nicely
set tables, and the staff—who speak good
English—are quick on their feet to meet all
requests, and that makes this one of the
cheeriest places to dine in the city. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
UNE
CUISINE EN VILLE
Now six years old, with a
chef named Philippe Lagraula, Une Cuisine en Ville
is a small, breezy two-room
bistro with a sunny patio, white tile wall and
wallpaper, and color accents of avocado green.
Lagraula serves personalized food of bright colors
and an insistence that the ingredients not be
masked by extraneous flavors. He
trained with Paul Bocuse, Michel Troisgros, Michel
Bras and Nicolas Le Bec, and he has traveled
outside of France to learn what other food
cultures can teach him, not least Latin America
and, especially, Peru.
“I love when the cooking has clarity
without artifice or too much technique, and one
that respects nature,” he says.
CHEZ JEAN For
a quick bite or pleasant dinner on a Sunday, Chez
Jean is as dependable as it is popular. It sits
right on the Place du Parlement, in view of the
fountain, with other restaurants arrayed around
the square, all packed with hungry, thirsty
people. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
LA
BRASSERIE BORDELAISE
50 Rue Saint Rémi +33 5 57 87 11 91
La Brasserie Bordelaise has an
avid following of locals, tourists and the Net
media, so a reservation is always a necessity.
Once it fills up, which it does every night, it
gets loud but amiably boisterous. Its chief raison
d’étre is that this is the place in town you come
for meat, especially beef—a “taste of the
Southwest”—with cattle from Bazas, Simmental,
Limousin and Aquitaine. These are accompanied by
one of the city’s best wine lists—700 selections,
arrayed behind the bar as you walk in and on every
square inch of wall space, too. Open
daily
for lunch and dinner.
LE
PETIT COMMERCE
When Bordeaux heats up in
summer it gets very hot indeed, and most
restaurants have so far resisted installing
air-conditioning, which can make an otherwise
delightful, casual meal at Le Petit Commerce
something of an ordeal. Open daily for
lunch and dinner.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani La PULPERIA
I hesitate
to recommend La Pulperia to anyone who fears
hearing loss, but the food is so delicious that I
would be remiss if I failed to alert readers to
the restaurant’s true appeal. One of three
connected Latin American restaurants by this name
in New York, La Pulperia serves enticing, exciting
dishes from appetizers through dessert, many not
easily found in Manhattan, though chances are
better in Queens and the Bronx.
But that
noise problem is a big one. The second I walked into
the two-room restaurant on Second Avenue I was hit
with a punishing blast of noise, from both the boom
box music system and the crowd trying to be heard
above it. Even
after the co-owner (with Chef Carlos Barroz)
cordially offered to turn the music down, it still
registered on my iPhone app at 90 decibels—which is
the equivalent of having a revving motorcycle in the
middle of the dining room. If you’re going to really
enjoy the food and drink at La Pulperia, I recommend
going at lunch or around 5:30, before the cacophony
kicks in. Open for lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.
& Sun. Dinner nightly.
❖❖❖
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WHAT I'M
DRINKING
FOR THE FOURTH By John Mariani If at all possible next weekend, Americans will be outdoors celebrating Independence Day with family and friends, along with burgers, franks, steaks, chops, shrimp, crabs and a whole mess of side dishes, a lot of it cooked on the grill. So here are wines I’m thinking of for a backyard party where a lot of people can drink well without my spending a fortune on each bottle.
CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO CHIANTI SUPERIORE 2014 ($15)—This well priced I.G.T. tastes like Chianti from forty years ago, a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and Ciliegiola, but without the oxidation that so often quickly occurred in the wine. Made from grapes in the Colli Fiorentini and Rufina regions, the wine shows a good deal of fruit forward and the tannins are modest, making this as apt for a pizza baked or cooked on the grill as just about anything you might be serving on July 4th. POLIZIANO VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2014 ($30)—If you’re thinking of doing an American version of bistecca fiorentina this weekend, you won’t find a better match than this reasonably priced Vino Nobile, made from 85% Prugnolo Gentile and 15% Colorino, Canaiolo and Merlot, spending 16 months in barriques. Made by the Carletti family (left), the wine has a wonderful perfume in the glass and a nice soft finish, and it will take to the steak’s char like a velvet glove.
DOMAINE DE BILA-HAUT L’ESQUERDA 2016 ($28)—This red from a village in the Côte du Roussillon is precisely the kind to give wine lovers a new appreciation for regional French wines at good prices, which had been missing from the market for a long while. Now owned by Michel Chapoutier, the House of Bila was once a refuge for the Knights Templar (their cross is on the label). The root stocks are 40+ years old, so the character of the terroir comes through from the blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan typical of the region. It’s big-bodied but not overpowering, so with grilled chicken or ribs, it’ll work splendidly. CARTAGHO MANDAROSSA NERO D’AVOLA 2014 ($25)—Nero d’Avola is the predominant grape of Sicily, and this 100% varietal culls its grapes from the sandy soil right on the Southern Sicilian coast. Without being “plummy,” there is a hint of plum’s sweetness, and at 14% it is a very good option for cheese like Pecorino and Parmigiano. With a plate of pasta I enjoyed every sip—make that glass—of this wine, one of the better Sicilian offerings from this vintage.
NOBILO ICON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 ($22)—With more layers of flavor than most New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, Nobilo Icon winemaker Dave Edmonds (right) sources from three different vineyards in the Marlborough growing region. The Awatere vineyards provide the flinty character the grape needs; the Wairau vineyards give body, and the Rapaura gives the fruitiness without too much sweetness. It’s very well balanced and will be terrific as an aperitif or with lobster.
FETZER ANNIVERSARY RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 ($9)—Mendocino’s Fetzer makes a great deal of wine, and a lot of its basic bottlings make it onto restaurant tables of every stripe. Barney Fetzer doesn’t always get the credit he deserves for the company’s finer wines, which certainly includes this well-balanced limited edition Cab with just 13.5% alcohol, with a little Petit Verdot, Merlot and Syrah adding complexity to the richness of the fruit. For nine bucks this is a great party wine for people who can recognize it for its quality.
LA CREMA SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR 2016 ($25)—This family winery, begun in 1979, used the name La Crema to denote their wines would be the cream of the crop, and consistency has always been a hallmark of their satiny flagship cool climate Pinot Noirs, which will go as well with salmon as with roast pork. The fruit is sourced from several vineyards with various soil types, so you get minerality with the soft fruitiness. ❖❖❖
DAMN SPELLCHECK! SHE MEANT "SPAM"! At the Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden in Long Island, NY, Curtis Mays asked for his receipt to find the instructions for his burger (well-done, toasted bread!) included his waitress’s request for a special ingredient. Spit. OH, PUH-LEEZE! "Fusion has become a dirty word in the food
world. High-end chefs line up on the field of battle,
ready to trade words over whether fusion is the driver
of innovation and cross-cultural exchange or a craven
attempt by white Americans to profit off the cuisines of
immigrants." ❖❖❖ Wine
Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners Wine is a joy year-round but
in cooler weather one
grape varietal has really taken center stage in
my daily activities – that most Italian of
grapes, Sangiovese, and its ultimate expression
– Brunello di Montalcino.
Recommendations for Celebrating
Sangiovese BelnerO Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
– A refined
cuvée of noble red grapes perfected by our pioneering
clonal research. This dark beauty, BelnerO, is
produced at our innovative winery, chosen 11
consecutive years as Italy’s Premier Vineyard Estate.
Fermented in our patented temperature controlled
French oak and aged approximately 2 additional years.
Unfiltered, and Nitrogen bottled to minimize sulfites. Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino –
Rich, round, velvety and intensely
aromatic, with flavor hints of licorice, cherry, and
spices. Brunello di Montalcino possesses an intense
ruby-red color, and a depth, complexity and opulence
that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste.
Unfiltered after 1998 vintage. Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino – Brunello's "younger brother," produced
from select Sangiovese grapes and aged in barrique for
10 to 12 months. Deep ruby-red, elegant, vibrant,
well-balanced and stylish with a dry velvety
finish.
Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva – A single vineyard selection of our most
historically outstanding Sangiovese, aged five years
before release, the additional year more than that
required of Brunello including 6 months in barrel and
6 months more in bottle to grant its “Riserva”
designation. Incredible
elegance and harmony. Intense with lots of fruit and
subtle wood influence. Round, complete, well balanced
with hints of chocolate and berries. Unfiltered after
1998. Poggio alle Mura – The first tangible result of years of
intensive clonal research on Montalcino’s native
Sangiovese grape.
Estate bottled from the splendidly sun drenched
vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello from which
it takes its name.
The Brunello
di Montalcino is seductive, silky and smoky. Deep ruby
in color with an expressive bouquet of violets, fruits
and berries as well as cigar box, cedar and exotic
spices. The Rosso
di Montalcino is also intense ruby red. The bouquet
is fresh and fruity with typical varietal notes of
cherry and blackberry, enriched by more complex hints
of licorice, tobacco and hazelnut. It is full
bodied, yet with a soft structure, and a surprisingly
long finish. The Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is deep ruby red with garnet
reflections and a rich, ample bouquet that hints of
prune jam, coffee, cacao and a light balsamic note. It is full
and powerful, with ripe and gentle tannins that make
it velvety and harmonious; this wine is supported by a
pleasing minerality that to me speaks soundly of that
special hillside in southern Montalcino. SummuS – A wine of towering elegance, SummuS is an
extraordinary blend of Sangiovese which contributes
body; Cabernet Sauvignon for fruit and structure; and
Syrah for elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. An elegant,
complex and harmonious red wine.
Cum Laude – A complex and elegant red which graduated
“With Honors,” characterized by aromas of juicy
berries and fresh spices. Centine – A Cuvee that is more than half
Sangiovese, the balanced consisting of equal parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified in
a firm, round style that easily accompanies a wide
range of dishes, this is a smooth and fragrantly
satisfying wine with international character, and a
perennial favorite at my own dinner table.
Banfi Chianti Superiore – The “Superiore” designation signifies
stricter government regulations regarding production
and aging requirements, as compared to regular
Chianti. An
intense ruby red wine with fruit forward aromas and
floral notes. This
is a round wine with well-balanced acidity and fruit.
Banfi Chianti Classico – An enduring classic: alluring
bouquet of black fruit and violets; rich flavors of
cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity
for dining.
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva – Produced from select grapes grown in the
"Classico" region of Chianti, this dry, fruity and
well-balanced red has a full bouquet reminiscent of
violets.
Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico – This is our newest entry into the Chianti
arena, coming from a 99 acre estate in Castellina, the
heart of the Chianti Classico region. The wine is
a captivating mauve red that smells of cherry, plum
and blackberry with hints of spice. It is
round, full and balanced with very good
acidity.
Col di Sasso – Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Luscious,
complex and soft with persistent notes of fruit and
great Italian style structure.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
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