MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
Travel poster by Sascha Maurer (1935)
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE ARE THE STARS FALLING IN RESTAURANT RATINGS? By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LA GOULUE By John Mariani SOME LIGHTER WINES FOR WINTER By Geoff Kalish ❖❖❖
ARE THE
STARS FALLING
IN RESTAURANT RATINGS?
Last
month New
York magazine’s fine, long-time restaurant
critic, Adam Platt, announced—with only a “tiny
tinge of nostalgic sadness”—that the magazine
would no longer use the one- to five-star
ratings system that had been in use since 2008.
Instead he and the magazine’s other food
reporters will use what he calls “a newfangled
by-the-numbers rating scale” of one
(“unfortunate”) to 100 (“nirvana”) that will
assess “all of the
hundreds of tangible and intangible factors
that add up to an excellent (or terrible)
dining experience, [so that a] world-class deli can sit
alongside a top-flight tasting
room; astonishing pizza will be
given the same weight as life-changing
pho, superlative khao soi,
or the most elaborate flight of caviar at the
most pretentious restaurant in midtown.”
❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
By John Mariani LA
GOULUE
29 East 61st Street
(near Madison
Avenue)
Once
upon a time Manhattan’s Upper East Side was the
gastronomic playground of what was long ago
referred to as “New York Society.” Very wealthy
men and women, arrivistes, fashionistas, shady
foreigners with Manhattan condos and oligarch
wannabes packed a wide range of restaurants that
knew how to cater to the often ridiculous
demands for tables, dishes not on the menu and
other follies. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SOME LIGHTER WINES FOR WINTER By Geoff Kalish WHITES 2017
Domaine Daniel Reverdy Sancerre
($24)—Following fermentation this Sauvignon
Blanc from France’s Loire Valley was left on its lees
(wasted yeast) for six months to add some body
to the final product. It has the bouquet and
taste of a toned-down New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc, with grapefruit, lime and a bit of newly
mowed grass in its crisp finish. It marries well
with mild cheeses and a range of hors d’oeuvres
from smoked salmon to chicken liver paté. 2016
Ravines Dry Riesling($17)—With
grapes
harvested from three vineyards around scenic
Lake Seneca, this elegant 100% Riesling
underwent cool fermentation and aging on its
lees and minimal filtration prior to bottling. It
displays a floral bouquet and a dry, yet fruity
taste of pears and nectarines with a crisp
finish perfect to pair with sushi or spicy Asian
or Mexican
fare. 2015
Lamblin & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaumes ($30)—This
vibrant,
unoaked classic Premiere Cru Chablis hails from
one of the two Chablis vineyards on the side of
the hills that contain the Grand Crus (Vaulorent
being the other). It shows an un-oaked bouquet
and full-bodied taste of ripe pears and apples
with hints of herbs in its finish. It’s the
ideal mate for bivalves, shrimp, scallops or grilled
calamari.
REDS 2016
Fabiano Collonge L’Aurore des Côte Chiroubles
($15)—With
its
fragrant bouquet and taste dominated by ripe
cherries with just a touch of banana in its
finish, this very versatile bottle from a small
northern Beaujolais commune harks back to the
style of wines made before the late 20th century
craze for light, very fruity and slightly sweet
“Beaujolais Nouveau-like” styles. Its
flavor and vibrant acidity mate perfectly with
the likes of braised chicken, butternut squash
as well as hamburgers or pizza. 2011 Zenato Ripasso
Superiore
($25)—This red from the Valpolicella region of
Italy (just north of Verona) is made by passing
the fermented wine over the skins and lees
discarded from recently processed Amarone—causing
a second fermentation and adding some color and
depth to the final product. It shows a rich
bouquet and taste of cassis and dried apricots,
similar to but a bit softer than most Amarones.
It’s perfect to marry with braised short ribs or
aged cheeses as well as pasta with red sauce or
even grilled salmon. 2016 1er
Cru Givry Clos Solomon
($55)—Not to be confused with Givrey (also from
Burgundy, but from the Cȏte d’Or, about an hour
car ride north of the small town of Givry), this
fragrant wine with a bouquet and taste of ripe
raspberries, strawberries and cherries is French
Pinot Noir at its best. It mates harmoniously
with poached salmon, grilled duck breast, wild
rice or even Caprese salad. 2016 M.
Chapoutier Domaine de Bila- Haut – Occultum
Lapidem
($15)—This well-priced wine was fashioned from a
blend of hand-harvested Syrah, Grenache and
Carignan grapes, which, following fermentation,
were matured in vats (about 50%) or oak casks
(about 50%). It has a deep garnet hue, and a
bouquet and concentrated taste of liquid plums,
pepper and herbs. It makes excellent
accompaniment for a wide range of fare from hot
dogs to roasted chicken or aged cheddar cheese. 2015 Poppy
Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($14)—Another
bargain bottle of wine, from California’s San
Luis Obispo County, this Cabernet Sauvignon was
made from grapes that, following fermentation,
were aged in small French oak barrels for a year
and a half before bottling. It shows a bouquet
and taste of crushed blueberries and ripe
cherries with the flavor of black currant and a
hint of vanilla in its finish—and pairs
perfectly any time of year with steak, prime
rib, grilled lamb, chicken or pork chops. 2013
Thierry et Pascale Matrot Vielles Vignes
Maranges
($22)—From a domaine in the small Cȏte de Beaune
Burgundy appellation Maranges, owned by the same
family for five generations, comes this easy
drinking adaptable red. It displays a bouquet
and taste laced with ripe strawberries and plums
with a touch of acidity in its finish. Mate it
with pizza, pasta with red sauce, veal Parmesan
or even crab cakes or sautéed soft shell crabs. 2016 Turley
Juvenile Zinfandel($35)—Made
from
grapes harvested from younger vines (6-25 years
old) on 20 different California vineyards, this
wine shows a bouquet and flavor of ripe
raspberries with hints of pepper and orange zest
in its finish. Lighter than most of Turley’s
other Zinfandels, this wine makes a good match
for flavorful fish like swordfish, tuna or
salmon no matter what the season.
❖❖❖
“Seiji
Yamamoto says that Japanese cuisine is a symbol of the
richness of Japan. Paying respect to the blessings of
Nature, he takes full advantage of the wealth of
natural ingredients available. Presentations are
placed on traditional handmade serving dishes and
display the skills and mind of a chef. The
preparations are analyzed from a chemical standpoint
while placing value on spirituality above all else to
present a new Japanese cuisine to the world.”—Ryugin,
Michelin Gide to
Tokyo 2019. 3 stars. Wine
Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners Wine is a joy year-round but
in cooler weather one
grape varietal has really taken center stage in
my daily activities – that most Italian of
grapes, Sangiovese, and its ultimate expression
– Brunello di Montalcino.
Recommendations for Celebrating
Sangiovese BelnerO Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
– A refined
cuvée of noble red grapes perfected by our pioneering
clonal research. This dark beauty, BelnerO, is
produced at our innovative winery, chosen 11
consecutive years as Italy’s Premier Vineyard Estate.
Fermented in our patented temperature controlled
French oak and aged approximately 2 additional years.
Unfiltered, and Nitrogen bottled to minimize sulfites. Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino –
Rich, round, velvety and intensely
aromatic, with flavor hints of licorice, cherry, and
spices. Brunello di Montalcino possesses an intense
ruby-red color, and a depth, complexity and opulence
that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste.
Unfiltered after 1998 vintage. Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino – Brunello's "younger brother," produced
from select Sangiovese grapes and aged in barrique for
10 to 12 months. Deep ruby-red, elegant, vibrant,
well-balanced and stylish with a dry velvety
finish.
Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva – A single vineyard selection of our most
historically outstanding Sangiovese, aged five years
before release, the additional year more than that
required of Brunello including 6 months in barrel and
6 months more in bottle to grant its “Riserva”
designation. Incredible
elegance and harmony. Intense with lots of fruit and
subtle wood influence. Round, complete, well balanced
with hints of chocolate and berries. Unfiltered after
1998. Poggio alle Mura – The first tangible result of years of
intensive clonal research on Montalcino’s native
Sangiovese grape.
Estate bottled from the splendidly sun drenched
vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello from which
it takes its name.
The Brunello
di Montalcino is seductive, silky and smoky. Deep ruby
in color with an expressive bouquet of violets, fruits
and berries as well as cigar box, cedar and exotic
spices. The Rosso
di Montalcino is also intense ruby red. The bouquet
is fresh and fruity with typical varietal notes of
cherry and blackberry, enriched by more complex hints
of licorice, tobacco and hazelnut. It is full
bodied, yet with a soft structure, and a surprisingly
long finish. The Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is deep ruby red with garnet
reflections and a rich, ample bouquet that hints of
prune jam, coffee, cacao and a light balsamic note. It is full
and powerful, with ripe and gentle tannins that make
it velvety and harmonious; this wine is supported by a
pleasing minerality that to me speaks soundly of that
special hillside in southern Montalcino. SummuS – A wine of towering elegance, SummuS is an
extraordinary blend of Sangiovese which contributes
body; Cabernet Sauvignon for fruit and structure; and
Syrah for elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. An elegant,
complex and harmonious red wine.
Cum Laude – A complex and elegant red which graduated
“With Honors,” characterized by aromas of juicy
berries and fresh spices. Centine – A Cuvee that is more than half
Sangiovese, the balanced consisting of equal parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified in
a firm, round style that easily accompanies a wide
range of dishes, this is a smooth and fragrantly
satisfying wine with international character, and a
perennial favorite at my own dinner table.
Banfi Chianti Superiore – The “Superiore” designation signifies
stricter government regulations regarding production
and aging requirements, as compared to regular
Chianti. An
intense ruby red wine with fruit forward aromas and
floral notes. This
is a round wine with well-balanced acidity and fruit.
Banfi Chianti Classico – An enduring classic: alluring
bouquet of black fruit and violets; rich flavors of
cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity
for dining.
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva – Produced from select grapes grown in the
"Classico" region of Chianti, this dry, fruity and
well-balanced red has a full bouquet reminiscent of
violets.
Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico – This is our newest entry into the Chianti
arena, coming from a 99 acre estate in Castellina, the
heart of the Chianti Classico region. The wine is
a captivating mauve red that smells of cherry, plum
and blackberry with hints of spice. It is
round, full and balanced with very good
acidity.
Col di Sasso – Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Luscious,
complex and soft with persistent notes of fruit and
great Italian style structure.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
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Advisor: Gerry
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