MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
Chester Conklin and
Charlie Chaplin in "Modern Times" (1936)
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE VEVEY AND MONTROSE, SWITZERLAND By John Mariani Tamara Keefe's Naughty & Nice Creamery Aims foe the Sweet and Boozy By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER RESERVE CUT By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR THE WINES OF SWITZERLAND By John Mariani ❖❖❖ VEVEY AND MONTROSE, SWITZERLAND By John Mariani The Castle of Chillon Photo courtesy of SwissTourism Vevey
is a small Swiss city in Vaud at the foot of
Mount Pèlerin, with less than 20,000
inhabitants, so one can easily walk around in a
couple of hours on a leisurely stroll along the
Lake Leman waterfront, with the Savoy mountains
looming beyond. The antique Old Town, which has
its own history museum, is composed of quiet,
winding streets with storefronts holding
bakeries, restaurant, cafés and boutiques. The sheer
calm of Vevey makes up a good deal of its charm. But by
far the rock-and-roll connection above all others
is to Freddie Mercury and Queen, which bought the
Mountain Studios in 1978. (It is now a charity
museum called “Queen: The Studio Experience.”) Mercury
had a second home in Montreux and, as
with the statue of Rocky Balboa in Philadelphia, a
visit to the statue of the late singer in the town
square has become a requisite tourist site (photo: Maude Rion),
with a plaque that reads, “He
appreciated the kindness and the discretion of the
townspeople and Montreux became a haven for him.” The Castle is easily reached on foot (about 45 minutes from Montreux), car (there is free parking), train, bus or by boat. The latter is certainly the loveliest, most romantic way to approach the Castle, which is always the case anywhere on the beautiful Lake Leman. NEXT WEEK: WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN VAUD
❖❖❖ Tamara
Keefe's Clementine's
Naughty
& Nice
Creamery Aims for the Sweet and Boozy By John Mariani
Is there anything
more American about the American Dream than
opening your own ice cream shop? Especially when you’ve
achieved what you thought was your dream in
the corporate world?
That’s how it turned out for Tamara Keefe, 43, who left a job as senior brand manager for Abbott Nutrition’s $70 million Ensure Oncology business to open Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery in her native St. Louis, Missouri. Now with three units, Keefe has already won several top awards for Best Ice Cream for flavors like Italian Butter Cookie, Midnight Pleasures and Boozy Banana Rum. I interviewed Keefe about her decision to take the leap from the corporate safety net into artisanal ice cream making
Q: Why did you
switch from a stable, high-paying corporate
job to take such a chance on making ice
cream? TK: I have
been making ice cream my whole life. When
I was a child, ice cream entirely changed my
sense of community and, therefore, sense of
self. We grew up below the poverty line. After
church on Sundays, the other families in our
community would meet at the local ice cream
parlor. I remember tugging on my mom’s dress,
begging her for us to join them for ice cream,
not knowing the financial burden a trip to the
ice cream parlor would cause our family of
seven. I can still feel the sting of
loneliness from not being able to join the
rest of our community. Q: Describe what
makes your ice creams different from others
compared with national brands? TK:
Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery is
named around the two types of ice creams we
make. Naughty (boozy) and Nice (non-boozy). We
have a trade-secret process for infusing
alcohol into ice cream up to 18%. Our ice
creams really are boozy. A few companies have
tried to hang their hat on creating boozy ice
cream, but they use such little amounts it's
not noticeable, or they use liquor flavors, or
they cook it all off so it's a bit
misrepresented. Q: Has the
corporate take-over of brands like
Häagen-Dazs compromised the original
product? TK: Yes,
corporate takeovers and now venture capital
firms often do ruin the integrity of the
product. They are so guided by making the most
profit possible that they tinker with it
little by little, and before you know it, a
co-packer is making the product and it no
longer is what it once was. It is completely
different. Q: Are there any
Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau
rules about booze in ice cream? TK: Yes,
as to content by volume, by weight and whether
or not it is viewed as a beverage or food.
Additionally, it depends if the manufacturer
is looking for a drawback, meaning a tax
refund on the alcohol purchased. Q: Explain: All of
the milk Clementine's uses is from local,
grass-fed, pasture-raised, hormone- and
RBST-free cows. TK: We
work with small dairy farmers who choose to
raise herds differently than their big
commercial counterparts. By using dairy from
local, grass-fed, pasture-raised, hormone and
RBST-free cows you’re starting with the
purest, most unadulterated, best tasting,
non-altered, fresh dairy you can imagine. As a
result, our base dairy is so much cleaner,
richer, creamier. Its healthier, tastes
better, it benefits the cows, and our
environment. Q: How did you
round up investment? Are you wholly
privately owned? TK: I am
completely self-funded and solely owned by me.
I’ve invested almost 500k to date from my
personal savings, cashed out my 401k, and
continue to grow from profits. As we look more
to capitalize on our momentum and take
advantage of the market opportunity, we will
be considering smart outside investment that
can help take us to the next level in becoming
a national brand. Q: Is the market
for new ice creams in America limitless?
What are your current overall U.S.
sales? TK: In
America, there is never a barrier for an
excellent product that delivers on its
promise. Ice cream is a $14 billion market.
But overall consumption in the U.S. is
declining. On the flip side, the craft segment
keeps growing.
I believe consumers are reveling in all
the newcomers and their inventive market
niches. Their entry into the market have
stimulated growth, motivated excellence and
differentiation, and better products are being
produced, especially in niche markets like
vegan, low-carb and micro-creamery, which are
taking market share fast from the big brands. Q: But won’t
expansion nationally compromise what is now
a small artisanal company? TK: For
us, no; we will be better than we are now. At
the moment, we have different expansion plans
and have seen one other artisanal ice cream
maker on the West Coast whom we respect a lot
expand the way we are planning to. Their
values mirror ours. They are choosing to
expand mindfully and authentically. The end
result will be a national presence without
compromising the best parts of being small. I
can’t wait to see how high is “high”! ❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
By John Mariani RESERVE CUT Setai Hotel 40 Broad Street 212-747-0300
Since 2013 Reserve
Cut has been one of handsomest restaurants in
the Financial District, and with the addition
of chef Richard Farnabe, a veteran of Daniel,
Jean-Georges and Picholine, its food has never
been better. This is a
kosher steakhouse, but working within rules
that only affect dairy and shellfish products,
Farnabe brings a new sophistication and
variety to the menu. Open for lunch Mon.-Fri., for dinner Sun.-Thurs. ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE WINES OF
SWITZERLAND
ARE EASY TO LOVE BUT NOT EASY TO FIND By John Mariani Vaud
Vineyards on Lake Leman
Photo: Maude Rion
Before going off to Switzerland
this spring, I was fortunate to attend a dinner
in New York held by the Swiss Wine Commission to
show off modern viniculture from a country whose
wines are so rarely written about—not from a
lack of interest but from a lack of wines to
write about. These only hinted at the variety of superb wines made in Switzerland, and I urged my Swiss hosts—begged, actually—to release more of them into the market. They deserve not just recognition for being good Swiss wines but for also being very good wines of any kind. Next month, from July 18 to August
11, Vevey will host its legendary Fête
des Vignerons, a month-long festival that
dates back to the 1700s, with colorful
processions, music written expressly for the
event, and, in this century, art exhibitions with
artists around the world showing their work (left). Young
people play Bacchus and Ceres, wonderful puppets
are carved and carried and a good amount of wine
is consumed. The fact that the Fête is held only
every twenty years or so makes this very special
and never becomes repetitious.
❖❖❖
"On a good day the wind blows the fumes
right out to sea, but the residents of St. Mary’s,
Newfoundland aren’t always that lucky.
When the wind
comes from the northeast, it carries the stench of
over 100 vats of rotten, nearly 20-year-old fish sauce
into the homes and business of everyone in the tiny
community. The reason: the hollowed-out shell of what
was once the Atlantic Seafood Sauce Company, which
closed its doors in 2001."—Madeline Muzzi, "A Town
Drowned in the Smell of Fish Sauce; What will it take
to clean up Newfoundland’s abandoned fish sauce
factory?" Eater.com
(5/23/19) Wine
Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners Wine is a joy year-round but
in cooler weather one
grape varietal has really taken center stage in
my daily activities – that most Italian of
grapes, Sangiovese, and its ultimate expression
– Brunello di Montalcino.
Recommendations for Celebrating
Sangiovese BelnerO Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
– A refined
cuvée of noble red grapes perfected by our pioneering
clonal research. This dark beauty, BelnerO, is
produced at our innovative winery, chosen 11
consecutive years as Italy’s Premier Vineyard Estate.
Fermented in our patented temperature controlled
French oak and aged approximately 2 additional years.
Unfiltered, and Nitrogen bottled to minimize sulfites. Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino –
Rich, round, velvety and intensely
aromatic, with flavor hints of licorice, cherry, and
spices. Brunello di Montalcino possesses an intense
ruby-red color, and a depth, complexity and opulence
that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste.
Unfiltered after 1998 vintage. Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino – Brunello's "younger brother," produced
from select Sangiovese grapes and aged in barrique for
10 to 12 months. Deep ruby-red, elegant, vibrant,
well-balanced and stylish with a dry velvety
finish.
Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva – A single vineyard selection of our most
historically outstanding Sangiovese, aged five years
before release, the additional year more than that
required of Brunello including 6 months in barrel and
6 months more in bottle to grant its “Riserva”
designation. Incredible
elegance and harmony. Intense with lots of fruit and
subtle wood influence. Round, complete, well balanced
with hints of chocolate and berries. Unfiltered after
1998. Poggio alle Mura – The first tangible result of years of
intensive clonal research on Montalcino’s native
Sangiovese grape.
Estate bottled from the splendidly sun drenched
vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello from which
it takes its name.
The Brunello
di Montalcino is seductive, silky and smoky. Deep ruby
in color with an expressive bouquet of violets, fruits
and berries as well as cigar box, cedar and exotic
spices. The Rosso
di Montalcino is also intense ruby red. The bouquet
is fresh and fruity with typical varietal notes of
cherry and blackberry, enriched by more complex hints
of licorice, tobacco and hazelnut. It is full
bodied, yet with a soft structure, and a surprisingly
long finish. The Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is deep ruby red with garnet
reflections and a rich, ample bouquet that hints of
prune jam, coffee, cacao and a light balsamic note. It is full
and powerful, with ripe and gentle tannins that make
it velvety and harmonious; this wine is supported by a
pleasing minerality that to me speaks soundly of that
special hillside in southern Montalcino. SummuS – A wine of towering elegance, SummuS is an
extraordinary blend of Sangiovese which contributes
body; Cabernet Sauvignon for fruit and structure; and
Syrah for elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. An elegant,
complex and harmonious red wine.
Cum Laude – A complex and elegant red which graduated
“With Honors,” characterized by aromas of juicy
berries and fresh spices. Centine – A Cuvee that is more than half
Sangiovese, the balanced consisting of equal parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified in
a firm, round style that easily accompanies a wide
range of dishes, this is a smooth and fragrantly
satisfying wine with international character, and a
perennial favorite at my own dinner table.
Banfi Chianti Superiore – The “Superiore” designation signifies
stricter government regulations regarding production
and aging requirements, as compared to regular
Chianti. An
intense ruby red wine with fruit forward aromas and
floral notes. This
is a round wine with well-balanced acidity and fruit.
Banfi Chianti Classico – An enduring classic: alluring
bouquet of black fruit and violets; rich flavors of
cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity
for dining.
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva – Produced from select grapes grown in the
"Classico" region of Chianti, this dry, fruity and
well-balanced red has a full bouquet reminiscent of
violets.
Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico – This is our newest entry into the Chianti
arena, coming from a 99 acre estate in Castellina, the
heart of the Chianti Classico region. The wine is
a captivating mauve red that smells of cherry, plum
and blackberry with hints of spice. It is
round, full and balanced with very good
acidity.
Col di Sasso – Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Luscious,
complex and soft with persistent notes of fruit and
great Italian style structure.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2019 |