MARIANI’S
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Sydney Pollack and Dustin
Hoffman at The Russian Tea Room in "Tootsie" (1982)
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE COGNAC, FRANCE By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER PHILIPPE CHOW DOWNTOWN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR CAMUS COGNAC SEES A FUTURE IN DIVERSITY By John Mariani ❖❖❖ COGNAC, FRANCE, Worth a Detour By John Mariani The Charente
River, Cognac
It is
easy enough to visit the town’s attractions in
one day, unless one seeks to visit several of
the finest Cognac producers in the region, like
Camus, Martell, Courvoisier, Otard, Hennessey
and many more. There is also good food to be
found in and outside of town. Cognac’s most
famous native son was Francis I (left), born
there in 1494, the son of the Count of Angoulême
and heir to the French throne only because Louis
XII died childless. By 1515 he was gone from
Cognac and living in Paris.
Parts of Cognac’s Old Town still evoke the king’s
childhood home,
with buildings from the 15th century extant
and examples of later centuries’ architecture
lining its cobbled streets. The center of town has
a quaint charm, and strolling along the Charente
River, dominated by the
formidable St. Jacques Gate, is a mellow pleasure,
with the river flowing slowly by, reflecting the
Old Town’s landscape in its rippling water.
Six principal vineyard areas surround the city
(there are also vineyards two hours’ drive away on
the Atlantic coast on the Île de Re), where they
grow grapes of varying character and quality from
which most producers blend different percentages
of eaux de vie to make Cognacs in their own style.
The best area is considered the Grande Champagne
(no connection to Champagne to the north), then
Petite Champagne, Borderies, Bon Bois and Bois
Ordinaire.
There
is a very humorous and very British scene in the
James Bond movie “Goldfinger” when 007 (Sean
Connery) gives his connoisseur’s opinion of a
“disappointing” Cognac, explaining, in his deep
Scottish burr, “It seems to be a thirty-year-old fine
indifferently blended, with an overdose of Bon
Bois.” (Fine,
pronounced “feen,” is an old term for brandy.)
Right next to the river’s quai is the Musée des
Arts du Cognac, within a 16th century
mansion, whose artifacts detail both the arts and
artifacts of the city and region. Smaller but of
some interest is the Musée d’Art
et d’Histoire, whose holdings largely come
from antiques donated by the area’s wealthy
families.
The St.
Léger church (below), built in the 12th
century in the Romanesque and High Gothic styles,
though altered over many centuries, has a splendid
rose window and impressively long nave, but it is
wedged between mundane later buildings that seem
to crowd the church out on an otherwise
undistinguished block. Many old buildings in
Cognac are in need of repair.
Up until just this year Cognac had not had a
first-class, or what the Europeans call five-star,
hotel, despite a significant spirits industry
clientele. Most places to stay are quite modest,
many in
former mansions. This summer, after the extensive
rehab of what had been a storage facility for the
Cognac trade, Hôtel Chais
Monnet Cognac opened to justified fanfare.
It’s a remarkable transformation, taking full
advantage of the huge spaces where Cognac barrels
were stored while revitalizing the beautiful
archway entrance that leads to the very modern
structures that house the hotel and two
restaurants, pool and conference space. Rooms (below) and
baths are extremely well appointed, with all
contemporary amenities and tech needs. The young
staff is eager to help with any question you might
have and can easily arrange for tours and visits
to the Cognac estates. I dined at
the more casual, all-day restaurant on property, La
Distilleries (Les Foudres
is their “gourmet restaurant”), set in a spacious,
rustic room of wood ceilings and beams, solid
limestone columns and a wall of windows (left). The
menu is good “brasserie contemporaine” fare, like
a medallion of creamy foie gras with chutney and a
Cognac gelée (€25); a light dish of crab with
cucumber and mint and a dollop of yogurt (€19);
delicious red shrimp with a risotto enriched with
tomme cheese (€29); and on Saturday nights big
slabs of côte de boeuf on a mound of crisp frites.
There is a “menu tradition” of two dishes for €35,
three at €42.
(Service and tax included.)
Widely regarded
as the best restaurant in town, the 20-year-old Le Bistro de
Claude, run by Claude Vezin (right), is
packed every night with locals and tourists within
a lively, highly colorful series of rooms, with
rough-hewn stone walls, antique cupboards and
modern black-and-white photos.
There are à la carte options, but the prix fixe
menu is quite a bargain at €23, €28 or €35, and
the choices the night I dined there included a cassolette of
mussels with citrus; luscious foie gras (right),
tournedos of duck splashed with a local balsamic
vinegar; and a fig tart with yuzu
cream. The wine list is excellent and rich in the
area’s Cognacs. (Service and tax included.)
Outside of
town by about 20 minutes is the area’s only
Michelin star restaurant, La
Ribaudière (left) in Jarnac, run by
chef Thierry Verrat. Flanking a quiet garden on
the Charente River is a terrace where you can have
cocktails or Champagne with amuses like
mackerel on a potato wafer with caviar and quinoa.
Inside, the restaurant is thoroughly modern, done
in bright, vivid colors of red and violet, with
wide, well-decorated tables (though the
wineglasses are, surprisingly, not
all of high quality).
The cuisine, which is pricey, can be overly fussy
on the plate, but the quality of ingredients and
preparation are superb, from mi-cuit
foie gras with smoked eel nubbins (€42) to very
tender snails on a crisp salad and carrot strips
(€37). Local sturgeon caviar from Gensac-La-Pallue
tops raw lobster with a fish gelée (€55).
Among the main courses was an extraordinary
soufflé of pike with rice flavored with shellfish
and more caviar (€37). Filet of Saint-Pierre came
with a concasse
of oysters and beet risotto (€42), and tournedos
of flavorful baby lamb were accompanied by
asparagus of the season and morel juice (€43).
Most appealing was a cart of what must have been
30 cheeses in peak condition, well described and
served with admirable dispatch.
Desserts encompass a
refreshing salad of raspberries with honey, olive
oil and meringues and a nut tart with
praline-caramel-citrus (both €17). There are also
bargain prix fixe menus at €50, €62, €72, €106 and
€112. (Service and tax included.) ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani PHILIPPE
CHOW DOWNTOWN
355 West 16th Street (near Ninth Avenue) 212-885-9400
The fact that, since January,
Philippe Chow in the Meatpacking District has
emerged as one of the most glamorous-looking
restaurants of any stripe in New York won’t come
as a total surprise as you descend a dark,
mirrored staircase to the dining room. Its
predecessor, Megu, though far different in
design—all red and neon—was built both to
attract and to wow a glam crowd. Philippe Chow
has a cooler vibe of sleek black and taupe, with
glowing lights and a stunning back-lit bar. Even
on a recent slow summer Tuesday night, the women guests
dressed to the nines in spaghetti strap tops,
tight mini skirts and spiked heels; the men
favored very tight black t-shirts and shaved
heads. Tattoos were in flagrant display.
This is chef-owner Philippe Chow’s second
restaurant. His first has been on the Upper East
Side for fourteen years and still appeals to
patrons who know that it has no connection to the
restaurants called Mr. Chow. The name confusion
caused quite a stir when Mr. Chow’s owner, Michael
Chow, sued Philippe Chow (left) for being a deliberate
knock-off of the older restaurant, which has
branches in New York, London and Beverly Hills. To
make a long story short, Philippe Chow showed that
his last name would take up several pages in a
Hong Kong phone book, and that was that.
Philippe Chow’s restaurant also differs from Mr. Chow by having much
better food and from a huge Asian nightclub like
Tao by actually focusing on the food and not the
razzle-dazzle. He is always at one of his
restaurants, often at both in a night, and his
menu is long with traditional favorites and his
own new dishes, like the curried calamari ($24) he
recommended to us.
He also has a full-time pastry chef.
A good beginning is one of the smoky satay
dishes on skewers, like chicken (right) with
peanut-sesame sauce ($3 each), or the lettuce
wraps which you fill with seasoned minced meat or
vegetables, fold up and eat with your fingers
($18). “Mr. Cheng’s Noodles” are hand pulled and
retain that wonderful elasticity when combined
with a classic pork sauce, and I could eat platter
after platter of Chow’s dumplings, especially the
pork soup variety, whose liquid gushes out of the
delicate dough and fills your mouth with flavor
($6 each). Green prawns are stir-fried with
vegetables, a good shot of garlic and toasty
cashews ($37), and a rosy filet mignon is crusted
by a good searing then sauced with an assertive
black pepper crunch ($41).
Peking
duck is always the measure of a Chinese
restaurant, and Chow’s is a fine one (you can have
it for two or more people, up to $85), with very
thin, crisp mahogany skin, the proper amount of
fat and velvety flesh to be wrapped with scallions
in a delicate pancake. I wish the hoisin sauce had
not been so thick, and it would have been even
nicer if they had preceded the meat with a duck
soup.
To go with main courses, have the moist, fragrant
vegetable fried rice ($12).
I don’t expect Chinese restaurants to have
first-rate desserts, but Philippe Chow’s warm
flourless dark chocolate cake with caramel,
frosted cocoa nibs and vanilla ice cream; warm
apple and almond tart with caramel, almond
crumble and soy milk ice cream; and the creamy
coconut mousse (all
$14) would be a hit at any American restaurant
in town. Unique, however, is the cotton candy
baked Alaska (below),
which arrives like a carnival confection of
cotton candy, which, when you insert a fork,
collapses over meringue, strawberry
semifreddo, chocolate cake and roasted
strawberries ($18). It’s a showpiece, certainly,
but it also irresistible. Philippe Chow
has a considerable wine list, and there are good
bottles at reasonable prices. The wines by the
glass, which is a good way to go in a Chinese
restaurant with so many disparate sweet and salty
flavors, are a very good selection—if
pricey—ranging from Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio
2016 ($19) to a Chapoutier Côtes-du-Rhône 2017
($15). As
you might expect, there is a long list of
specialty cocktails ($17 to $22).
So there’s a lot going on at
Philippe Chow, starting with that descent down
that mirrored staircase into a shadowy, sexy
space where the menu is full of both traditional
Chinese pleasures and novel ideas. It’s all in
good fun but it’s also all buoyed by very good
taste.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
By John Mariani CAMUS COGNAC SEES A
FUTURE IN DIVERSITY La Gîte, home of the Camus family Long regarded as the highest expression of distilled grapes into brandy, Cognac has been enjoying soaring sales along with other “brown goods” like Scotch, bourbon and rye. According to the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac, Cognac shipments were up 10.3% in 2018, with 200.8 million bottles shipped, valued at €3.162 billion. By far the highest exports were to North America—88.4 million bottles—with Asia, Europe and the rest of the world following. The gorilla in the room is LMVH’s Hennessey, with nearly half the total sales of Cognac, followed by Pernod Ricard’s Martell, Rémy Cointreau’s Rémy Martin and Beam Suntory’s Courvoisier. In fifth place is Camus, which has been family owned since 1863—the last in the industry—for five generations, and currently headed by 48-year-old President Cyril Camus, who is trying to distinguish his brand from the rest through innovations like its signature Borderies XO as well as Cognacs tailored to specifications on the French island of Île de Ré. Camus now sells 3 million bottles per year in 140 countries, last year turning over €120 million, with 97% of sales from exports. Important to that aspect of the business is Camus’s presence in more than 300 international airport duty free shops. Under Vice President-Eaux-de-Vie & Cellar Master Patrick Léger (below), an array of new Cognacs have been offered in recent years whose overall character, he says, is “intensity,” which is achieved in various ways, including “finishes” in different kinds of oak barrels. (All Cognac is distilled from Ugni Blanc grapes, sometimes with quantities of Folle Blanche and Colombard.) In September I visited Camus, and while I did not meet Cyril Camus, I did have interviews with Patrick Léger, a former French special forces officer and now Chief Marketing Officer Jean-Dominique Andreu and Master Blender Fréderic Dézauzier, who showed me the distilleries, with their huge copper pot stills (above) and vast barrel rooms. I was also brought to their very modern Camus Visitor Center (21 Rue de Cagouillet), open, by appointment, to the public for tours to "discover the world" of Cognac and Camus history and a unique, two-hour “Master Blender” workshop (below). Here, under guidance, you create your own 50cl bottle of XO Cognac. I was able to taste many of Camus’s current portfolio of Cognacs and recognized what the company is aiming to achieve through so many “expressions” of the spirit. The Borderies region comprises only 5% of the Cognac Appellation vineyards, but Camus is the largest owner of land in the Borderies, with 188 hectares (465 acres) of vineyards. Camus has gone against the grain by always assembling some eaux-de-vie from the Borderies district in their Cognac blends from other crus, which are Grande Champagne (no connection to Champagne to the north), then Petite Champagne, Fin Bois, Bon Bois and Bois à Terroirs. Borderies spirits are particularly aromatic, and upon tasting Camus’s VSOP I found it indeed full of peach and apricot aromas, soft and round, with a long finish on the back of the palate. Even more so was their XO Family Reserve single estate. Camus has been in the forefront in Cognac in offering spirits with different finishes, as has become popular with bourbon, Scotch and Irish Whiskey in recent years. The St. Aulaye Monbazillac Cask Finish is Cognac aged in casks from the sweet wine casks Dordogne region of France, which imparts a sweetness at the end of the palate, while the Port Cask Finish is aged traditionally before being finished in Tawny Port barrels, resulting in 43.2% alcohol and rich aromas familiar to Port lovers. Caribbean Expedition is unique—a small batch of Cognac actually matured in Oceanic and Tropical climates, which certainly pushes the envelope in the highly traditional Cognac industry.
Camus is no stranger to smart modern packaging
either, especially after the success of Rémy
Martin’s Louis XIII Cognac sold in a Baccarat
crystal bottle.
Camus does use blends for other iterations, like its glamorously boxed Extra Elegance using eaux de vie from the Borderies, Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne regions. (There is even a package made specifically for the duty free market only.) From the Extra Cognacs, Cyril Camus asked Léger to create Extra Dark & Intense from the best barrels, then the eaux-de-vie undergo an unusual process of emptying the barrels, which are then slightly heated to “release the Cognac trapped inside the very grain of the oak staves.” The eaux-de-vie are then returned to those barrels for finishing. I saw but did not sample some very special, very expensive limited bottlings, some with vintage dates, that are sold for special markets, like its Jean-Paul Camus 1945 Private Réserve and Rarissimes 1940 Vintage in a Baccarat crystal bottle. After being exposed to so many different Cognacs, I asked Jean-Dominique and Fréderic if such an array might serve to confuse the public, the way novel interpretations of Port and whiskies may bewilder potential buyers with too many choices. Cognac lovers stay true to one label, knowing master blenders work hard to always deliver the exact flavors and aromas of the house style. Would they start experimenting with all these new products from one producer? Their answer was quite simple and based on the way the world now spins: Those who love a traditional bottling will always do so, but with the expansion of Cognac into so many global markets, there are brand new audiences for Cognac. Since 2007 Camus has been sold in China by its Yuanliu subsidiary, while its current Russian distributor, Beluga Group, has experienced double-digit growth in Russia. Because these new markets, which include the current generation of Millennials in the U.S., are not bound to one Cognac brand, Camus believes by offering an array in various price ranges and gift packaging, it will build a corps of new Cognac lovers whose willingness to try different styles will make for more nuanced choices and a more refined clientele.
❖❖❖
"Some
people collect stamps, or Depression Glass, or
vintage community cookbooks. I collect enchiladas,
an obsessive pastime I have pursued since I first
learned to love this comfort food of all comfort
foods as a brand-new Texan back in the mid-1960s.”-- Alison Cook, "New
additions to my Houston Enchilada Hall of Fame," Houston
Chronicle
(7/16)
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
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NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
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