MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  October 4,   2020                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


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IN THIS ISSUE
ETIQUETTE ABROAD
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
LOVE AND PIZZA
CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT

By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
NEW MERLOTS IN THE MARKET
By John Mariani

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ETIQUETTE ABROAD:
How To Avoid Coming Off as a Rube

By John Mariani



          When traveling abroad returns to something close to normalcy after Covid, Americans who have not dined out in Europe or Asia will need to know some of the etiquette rules that people in other cultures consider the sign of a civilized person—even when some of those rules seem downright silly, based on ideas of manners that went out of date a century ago.
       It's not just a simple matter of knowing what fork and knife to use in a multi-course meal (in Europe you begin with those farthest out to the left and right of your plate) or of using your fingers to eat asparagus in France. Sometimes you can really, really offend your host and his entire family by doing something you believe wholly innocent yet to them is an abject horror of barbaric behavior.  Despite the old adage that "you are what you eat," you are also judged by how you eat, and manners differ radically around the world. 
        Indeed, as necessary as his Walther PPK and fluency in several languages was to his survival in foreign countries, James Bond's knowledge of correct behavior at the table was crucial information.  Indeed, when he once let his guard slip in From Russia with Love and found himself at gunpoint with a SPECTRE assassin posing as a worldly British agent, Bond remembered what the man ordered for lunch:  "Red wine with fish," says 007 regretfully. "That should have told me something."
          Hey, you never know.
        In a world where one-third of the people eat with their fingers, one third with chopsticks, and one-third with forks and knives, it gets pretty tricky knowing how to handle yourself at tables abroad. Here are some tips to help you save face.


— In Hungary never clink glasses for a toast.  Back when Austrian troops occupied Budapest, they'd always do that just before shooting another Hungarian.


— In Turkey use only the right hand to pick up food and wipe that hand on the napkin. Never use your left hand, which in Arab countries is used for quite another purpose.


— Never tip in a pub.


— In England during tea time you should not pour your own, but ask instead for the hostess or waiter to do so. 









— In Arab countries belching is considered a sign of your enjoyment of a meal. So, feel free to let go.


— In Egypt pour your tea into the cup until it spills out into the saucer.


— In France the only foods you may eat with your fingers are frites, asparagus, raw shellfish, and frogs' legs.


— In China use chopsticks to take food from the serving plate, then place the food atop your rice—never from plate to your mouth.  If there is a lazy Susan, it is impolite to remove the dish from it. 


— Don’t be put off by Asians who loudly slurp their noodles.


— In Hong Kong and Taiwan, the more spots you leave on the tablecloth the more you are thought to have loved the food. 


— When picking up sushi with chopsticks, dip the fish side into the soy sauce, not the rice, which may fall apart. It is also permissible to pick up sushi with your fingers, but not sashimi.


— Never pass food to another person using your chopsticks (which resembles the symbolic passing of a deceased relative’s bones at a  Japanese funeral) or stick your chopsticks in your rice and leave them sticking up (which resembles incense sticks that figure in funeral services.)



— Never ask a sushi chef if his food is “fresh.”


— In Thailand don't ask for chopsticks; Thais use forks and spoons.




— In Italy do not wait for everyone to be served their pasta before eating yours. “Amici e pasta, se non sono caldi, non sono buoni” means “If friends and pasta are not warm, they are not good.”


— In Europe the fork is held in the left hand and the knife in the right, and never exchanged after cutting the food, as we do in the U.S.


— In Italy no one drinks cappuccino after noontime.


— In Italy do not ask for a tablespoon to help you swirl spaghetti onto your fork. Only a non-Italian would do that.


— Never bring a gift of wine to a hostess in Italy or Portugal, where it is considered an insult to the host’s generosity.


— In Greece never arrive less than half an hour late for dinner, which never begins before 9 p.m.


— In Japan do not lean your chopsticks on the food plates or bowls.






— In Russia do not sip vodka. Knock it back, and only when the host offers a toast.


— When served caviar, do not ask your Russian host for condiments like onion or chopped egg, which Russians consider a barbaric way to mask the purity of sturgeon roe.  Caviar is eaten on blini pancakes smeared with melted butter .


—And, yes, in Italy you may eat your pizza folded with your fingers or cut with a knife and fork.

















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NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani
                                                           

LOVE AND PIZZA

    Since, for the time being, I am unable to write about or review New York City restaurants, I have decided instead to print a serialized version of my (unpublished) novel Love and Pizza, which takes place in New York and Italy and  involves a young, beautiful Bronx woman named Nicola Santini from an Italian family impassioned about food.  As the story goes on, Nicola, who is a student at Columbia University, struggles to maintain her roots while seeing a future that could lead her far from them—a future that involves a career and a love affair that would change her life forever. So, while New York’s restaurants remain closed, I will run a chapter of the Love and Pizza each week until the crisis is over. Afterwards I shall be offering the entire book digitally.    I hope you like the idea and even more that you will love Nicola, her family and her friends. I’d love to know what you think. Contact me at loveandpizza123@gmail.com
—John Mariani


To read previous chapters go to archive (beginning with March 29, 2020, issue.

LOVE AND PIZZA
 
 

By John Mariani

Cover Art By Galina Dargery

CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT



Rainey Memorial Gates at the Bronx Zoo


         “There they are,” Elena said, pointing to a truck from which photographic equipment was being unloaded and brought into a wholly nondescript brick apartment building. “We’re here.”
         Several of the staff, including Nicola, looked at each other, wondering why they were here at a place that seemed like the most unphotogenic spot in the world.  They piled out and Elena turned to everyone and said, “People, you are standing on sacred ground.  Welcome to 1520 Sedgwick Avenue, where hip hop was born.”  Then she turned to a young, good-looking black man in baggy jeans, a New York Knicks jersey, aviator glasses and baseball cap turned backwards and said, “FX, tell them about this place.”
         Amazingly, the young man began to perform a history of the place they were standing in front of, all in rap.  
 
       “Now you people prob'ly didn’t know it,
        ’Cause there’s nothin’ ‘round here to show it.
        And there’s nothin’ on the Exxon map here
        Make you think someone invented rap here.
        But back in nineteen seventy three
        In this South Bronx community
        A funk DJ who was Jamaican
        Showed everybody he wasn’t fakin’.”

    The rap went on to describe how a Jamaican immigrant named Clive Campbell, known as DJ Kool, on August 11, 1973, had presided over a house party in the building’s community rec room (below), where kids started improvising lyrics to a continuous funk beat.  Other Bronx deejays joined the parties and soon hip hop groups were forming around the borough, with names like The Herculoids, and the neighborhood took on the name “Boogie Down Bronx.”
         After finishing the rap,  the young man received applause from the Willi staff, and Elena introduced them. “People,” she said, “This is FX Sledg, who’s kind of unofficial keeper of the flame here, where rap all began.  And he’s got an album coming out just around the time of Willi’s first issue.  So, he’s going to pose with Nikki in the community room here.”
         Still astonished, the staff now realized why they’d brought the clothes they did, for they showed off some young designers’ take on hip hop gear, with finer fabrics in more striking colors and patterns.  Nicola’s outfit was of a kind a girl in the Bronx would wear to a hip hop party—with a red, off-the-shoulder Latina blouse that left the midriff bare, worn with ballooning black pants cut mid-shin and decorated with ribbons down the outer seams.
         Everyone went inside and down to the basement rec room, which looked like every other basement rec room they’d ever seen, completely without décor except for a folding table with some plastic red and blue soda cups and liter bottles of Coke and Gatorade.  On the floor was a boom box the size of a suitcase.  As the lights and reflector screens were being set up, Diana took Nicola aside and started on her makeup and hair—which was a wig streaked with fluorescent colors—while Banks got the clothes ready.  Fifteen minutes later, with FX Sledg’s album blaring from the boom box,  Hector Saint-Nazaire began snapping photos and fifteen minutes after that he’d finished, insistent that taking any more time would spoil the spontaneity of the moment.
         When it was over, Diana turned to Elena and said, “Nikki’s a natural. I can’t believe she hasn't been modeling for years.”
         “I told you,” said Elena. “Okay, people, let’s pack it up, get some lunch and try to get in a second location today.”
         After nibbling some food from a local tacqueria, the staff drove just a few blocks south before Yankee Stadium loomed into full view. “Our next location,” said Elena.
         There was no game that day—and Elena had not only managed to get clearance for the photo shoot inside the stadium but also to enlist the participation of  29-year-old Yankees catcher Juan Espiño, originally from the Dominican Republic, to pose with Nicola.  He was dressed in a stunning featherweight wool one-button suit woven in the Yankees signature white-with-blue pinstripes, an elegant take on an iconic uniform by another Latino designer.  The suit had razor-sharp trouser pleats and a perfect break at the cuffs, the shoulders slightly roped, the buttons on the cuffs unbuttoned.  Espiño’s shirt was white, with a wide navy blue club tie with the interlocking letters N and Y that formed the Yankees emblem.
        Opposite Espiño, Nicola stood wearing a sexy take-off on the very un-sexy umpire’s uniform—a knit shirt stretched to the breaking point over the inevitable corpulent paunch of the official, with gray slacks in an equally poor fit.  Nicola’s version began with a perfectly fitted dark polo shirt with white collar in cotton lisle, with the designer’s logo on the breast, and beautifully tailored pleated gray gabardine trousers that hugged her hips then flared at the bottom.  On her head she wore a black sequined umpire’s cap.  The finished photo showed the two of them pointing fingers in each other’s face as if in an argument in the batter’s box.
         The next day and the day after that the locations and themes were always very different, illustrating not only the diversity of Bronx culture but of young Bronx designers.  So, one morning the shoot was done at Fordham University, in the Duane library (left), where a handsome football player sat with his legs up on a desk while Nicola leaned seductively over him, trying to disengage him from his studies.  His clothes were a savvy parody of college dress—a wide herringbone tweed jacket of many color weaves, with broad shoulders and lapels, an Oxford shirt with a wide tie in a blazingly loud rep pattern, and yellow chinos with little embroidered figures on them that, if you got up close, were revealed to be marijuana leaves.
         Nicola was in tight black jeans with pink seam stitching and an oversized sweatshirt in the school’s colors—maroon with two white letters for Fordham University: “FU.”  This time her hair (another wig) was an extended mass of tight curls.
         That night the crew went to a salsa club, where the clothes were outrageously sequined and boldly colored dance outfits.  The male model was a well-known salsa dancer whose chest was almost totally exposed and whose shiny black pants were engineered to survive every dance step, lunge and split.
        Nicola was not expected to keep up with the dancing—though she surprised herself—but there was no sexier or more revealing salsa dress on the dance floor that night, and no more beautiful woman.  Her hair was pulled back very tightly, with a white gardenia at the back. Her heavy makeup loomed large in the final plan.
         The issue’s cover photo was intended to be very high class: Nicola and a gorgeous black actor from the borough—posed in front of the stunning Art Déco green bronze entrance gates of the Bronx Zoo on Fordham Road, whose sculptures of bears and deer by Charles A. Platt were beloved by every child who ever saw them upon entering the zoo.  
        
Against this backdrop the actor wore a silk and cotton black turtle neck and tight tuxedo crêpe pants under a great cashmere coat the color of a lion’s skin, with a large fur collar the color of a lion’s mane.  Nicola wore a body-hugging leopard-spotted silk dress to her knees, sashed with a wide, pleated leather belt, beneath a waist-length coat of flamingo-like feathers in white and pink. 
        
Saint-Nazaire shot barely a roll of film, positive he could not take any more shots that would be any more beautiful.
         The final location was a form of a gift to Nicola: they shot the session at Bella Napoli, with pizza for everyone.  Elena agreed with Saint-Nazaire that having regular customers in the shots gave the room vivacity.  Joe Bastone didn’t understand why they had to change the lighting and move statuary but he didn’t complain, he was charging a fee for the restaurant’s takeover during what was the slow afternoon period.  Of course, all of the Santini family game to ogle, applaud and be impressed by Nicola, who that day was dressed not unlike Olivia Newton-John in the movie “Grease,” including the very big teased hair—with a headband—and very red lipstick. 
        
Just as Saint-Nazaire announced he was almost ready, there was a commotion at the door.  People were gasping, screaming, applauding—for through the door came a short, skinny guy with sunglasses and a golf cap turned backwards. He was dressed all in black, a silver medallion around his neck, and it was obvious to everyone from the neighborhood who it was:  Elena had hired Dion Dimucci, former lead singer of Dion and The Belmonts (left)—Dion, the man who, with his group, was the most influential pioneer of doo-wop music in the 1950s, a style he’d perfected singing on the corner of Arthur Avenue and 187th Street in the neighborhood that gave his group its name.
         Nicola was as giddy as anyone at Dion’s arrival and told him how much she loved his work. Dion thanked everyone then said, “Okay, let’s get this show on the road,” posing with Nicola over a huge pizza set on a red-checkered tablecloth while Joe Bastone quickly slipped in a cassette of Dion’s greatest hits. 
        
And as Dion’s high-pitched wailings in “Why Must I Be a Teenager in Love?” and his grinding growl in “The Wanderer” filled the air at Bella Napoli, Nicola thought this had been perhaps the most amazing week of her life. 
       
Later that night, in her bed in the building around the corner, that thought worried her. 

 


©
John Mariani, 2020

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

NEW MERLOTS IN THE MARKET
By John Mariani



Ava Gardner and Tyrone Power in "The Sun Also Rises" (1957)


 

         Summer’s gone, fall is upon us and the options for wonderful wines from all over is prime after months of “lighter” wines with “lighter foods.” Merlot, too often the blending varietal in bigger Cabernets, is on its own an enchantment when it’s not too high in alcohol. Its greatest claim to fame is, of course, Château Pétrus and the region of Pomerol. Merlot is, in its way, kind of a young entry into viticulture, having been recorded in Bordeaux only in the 19th century. Lighter versions have their appeal in Northern Italy, and Chile now produces some first-rate, well-priced examples. California does, too, though the alcohol can soar, on purpose. Some marketing firm has declared October Merlot 2017 month, so here are some new bottlings now in the market.
 


L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot 2017 ($37)—Washington States is too often neglected in the discussion of red wines because so much attention is paid to California Cabernets and Oregon Pinot Noirs. Washington has long excelled with Merlot, which on its own is always a smooth, velvety red that goes with anything from pizza up through game dishes. This Walla Walla Valley varietal is made from the grapes of two estates, with 79% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, and that vintage had a warm Indian summer. It’s about as high in alcohol as I want to see Merlot (14.5%), which means it is fruit forward, at least for the time being, so drink now.


 


Ehlers Estate Merlot 2017 ($55)—Another big Merlot, this one from St. Helena in Napa Valley. Blended from three different clones, it has more complexity than most from that region, and the 10% Cabernet Sauvignon gives it some spine, and 22 months in barrel harmonizes the whole of it. Sugar levels went high at first, then settled down, so this came out at 14.5%. Roast veal would be ideal with this wine. But at $55 it’s getting up near the top of Merlot prices in America.


 


Cannonball Merlot 2017 ($14)—So, two, why not three Merlots, this one from Mendocino, though the fruit is sourced farther inland in Yolo County? The price, the bold name and the screwcap should tell you something, but this has more components that comparable Merlots if you’re looking for a simple but solid red wine for everyday drinking. I tasted a $72 Merlot from a better-known producer whose bottling was 14.9% alcohol that I pushed aside in favor of this delightful one at 14.1%. I had it with a tomato sauce pasta as well as chicken in a lemon butter sauce, and it was delicious.


 





St. Supéry Rutherford Estate Merlot 2016 ($50)—This illustrious estate gets its Merlot grapes from the equally illustrious “Rutherford Bench,” whose complex soil composition makes for an equally complex wine with rich fruit, good acid and lush texture. The make-up is 88% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, so it’s close to the flavors you get from the wines of St. Émilion and Pomerol. The vintage was a very fine one, and the wine spent 19 months in new French oak to round it all out. If you’re willing to pay the price, this will deliver a rich reward that will match up with foie gras, venison or roast beef.

 

 



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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

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“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             





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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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