MARIANI’S

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  October 25,  2020                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



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IN THIS ISSUE
A GREAT CITY IS MADE
TO STROLL FOREVER

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
LOVE AND PIZZA
CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE SPARKLING WINES OF TRENTINO
By John Mariani




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A GREAT CITY IS ONE WHERE
YOU CAN STROLL FOREVER

By John Mariani



     As people discover the renewed joys of taking a long walk during this pandemic crisis, I doubt there is anyone who is not daydreaming about places they have been or may now never get to. I have been watching some of the travel shows on TV with a different cast of mind, including one of those old MGM “Traveltalks” shorts from the 1930s hosted by the “Voice of the Globe,” James A. Fitzpatrick, who always ended his ten-minute travelogues saying of every destination, “And so we reluctantly say goodbye to . . . .”
        The cinematography, though in Technicolor, was not of the highest quality, and no topic was dwelt on for more than a few seconds, but the series presented the charms of places most Americans would never have otherwise had a glimpse of, much less travel to. World War II put a big crimp in Fitzpatrick’s foreign travel, but he thereupon exuded as much enthusiasm over “Old New Orleans” and “Mighty Niagara” as he had over “Picturesque Udaipur” and “Serene Siam.”
        As I watched “Beautiful Budapest” (below) a city I adore for its beauty, its museums, its food and its lay-out on both sides of the Danube River, I realized that all great cities, and many smaller ones, are those where strolling for hours down grand boulevards like the Champs Élysées or the National Mall in Washington is key to finding what makes them endlessly fascinating, again and again, so that we always want to return to retrace our old steps and set out on new ones.
        The narrow streets of Florence will suddenly open onto a vast piazza like San Lorenzo, Signoria, Strozzi, del Duomo; a stroll along New York’s Museum Mile brings you past Central Park and its Children’s Zoo, flanked by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Guggenheim, the Frick Collection, the Africa Center, El Museo del Barrio, Museum of the City of New York, the Jewish Museum, the Cooper Hewitt, the Neue Gallerie and the National Academy Museum. A stroll along the Chicago River (below) will be an instant education in American architecture, from the Tribune Tower and Merchandise Mart to the Harry Weese River Cottages and Erie Park. Boston’s two-and-a-half-mile Freedom Trail winds through the city showing the most important locations of the burgeoning Republic, from King’s Chapel and Park Street Church to the Boston Massacre Site and the Old North Church, where the lamps were lighted to send Paul Revere on his famous ride.
        Easily as wonderful and diverse are neighborhoods like Trastevere in Rome, Montmartre in Paris, Soho in London, Buenos Aires’s Italian section called La Boca and the sprawling night markets of Taipei. You can follow Leopold Bloom’s footsteps from James Joyce’s Ulysses in Dublin, Hemingway’s haunts on Montparnasse, even film locations in New York from the movie Goodfellas.
        There are always streets lined with boutiques, food shops, cafés, artisan shops, bars and nightclubs. In Toledo (below) you can stand across from the landscape El Greco so famously painted of the Spanish city, in Berlin walk along the remains of the graffiti-painted Wall and in Quebec City stand on the Plains of Abraham, where the British took the city from the French.
       Walking up impossibly steep streets in San Francisco, finding Juliet’s balcony in a cul de sac in Verona and stopping for coffee and schnitzel on Vienna’s Ringstrasse make for indelible memories. And you realize after returning home that you’ve only scratched the surface of a city. In each, everyone visits the top sights—the Eiffel Tower, the Statue of Liberty, Trafalgar Square and so on—but few get to the lesser known attractions that a great city offers in dizzying array, like Paris’s flea markets called Les Puces, the quarter around the Istanbul Bazaar and Milan’s bustling Navigli neighborhood along the river.
        Such a bounty of cultural riches, reached largely on foot, day after day, hour after hour, is what makes a city great, while other cities, however large, work against the idea of extensive, slow walking. Every city has its street-side attractions—the bizarre extravagance of Las Vegas’s Strip, the Indian Market of Santa Fe, the waterfront of San Juan and painted boulevard of Copacabana in Rio (left). But once walked through, there are only a very limited number of streets or neighborhoods in those cities one can traverse on foot. Cities like Atlanta, Los Angeles, Denver, Houston and Phoenix (all with first-rate, if few, museums) are so spread out by design that there is nowhere to go beyond the downtown center, which in many of those cities are the dreariest part. 
       
Not only because of the heat but because of the sterility of the massive high-rises that line the broad avenues of Dubai (below) and Abu Dhabi does a ten-minute walk seem more than enough before heading for the air-conditioned indoor shopping malls. Brazil’s capital, Brasilia, has its Monumental Axis park, but little else to make you want to walk around the city. And most of the old neighborhoods have been razed in Chinese cities dating back millennia.
        Most of these cities have been planned according to modern ideas of architecture and civic hubris by which size and scope blots out history and charm. In New York, narrow set-backs have meant less and less light enters into midtown Manhattan any more. Los Angeles was built around a mouse maze of a Freeway system rather than to benefit neighborhoods, so that it is still maddening to traverse Malibu to downtown L.A. west to east, because the roads were not built to do so. Even Paris has ringed its historic core with buildings that are not only cookie-cutter ugly but bear no relation to traditional Parisian culture and offer no reason to walk through them unless one works there. And London’s new business center,  Canary Wharf (below), might as well be located in Dallas.  It should be noted that the Paris we know today was the result of razing vast swathes of old Gothic neighborhoods by Baron Haussmann, and there is almost nothing left of pre-19th century New York downtown.
        Some years ago, I exited what was then called the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, and, having exhausted all the commercial attractions of downtown Beverly Hills, I strolled up into the residential section of the city, whose eerie quiet was broken only by the sounds of sprinklers whooshing back and forth across perfectly groomed lawns. I was dressed in shorts and a tennis shirt, when suddenly I heard the whoop! whoop! of a police car. It stopped next to me, its lights still flashing, and two Beverly Hills cops (neither of whom looked like Eddie Murphy in the movie) got out and asked me for identification. I said I wasn’t carrying any because I was just taking a walk! Had I been an African-American I’m sure the cops would have pushed me up against their car and frisked me. They did not—not much space to hide a gun in my outfit—but they were very suspicious of anyone who would take a walk through Beverly Hills, as if the people who lived there no longer had use of their lower limbs and were all lifted into limos to go anywhere. Perhaps they assumed I was casing the mansions with an eye to breaking into them at eleven in the morning. They let me go with a suggestion I don’t try taking a walk through the neighborhood ever again.
        The incident made me realize what a soul-less city it was, a place where nobody walks anywhere, a city where going to a supermarket or dry cleaners three blocks away is reason to get in a car and drive there and where anyone walking through the neighborhood should be eyed with suspicion with 911 on speed dial.
        That’s not the way it is in a city where everyone walks or bicycles  everywhere to buy a loaf of bread, meet a friend for lunch or pick up one’s children from school. That’s not the way it is when people lean out their windows throughout the day and evening to chat with friends across the way, keep an eye on things and watch the passing parade.
        I miss all this very much during this damnable pandemic, and I’m very glad I live in a neighborhood (albeit in the ‘burbs) where I can walk to everything, wave to people I know and don’t know, and feel that no cop’s car will be bearing down in me.
                 



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NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani
                                                           

LOVE AND PIZZA

    Since, for the time being, I am unable to write about or review New York City restaurants, I have decided instead to print a serialized version of my (unpublished) novel Love and Pizza, which takes place in New York and Italy and  involves a young, beautiful Bronx woman named Nicola Santini from an Italian family impassioned about food.  As the story goes on, Nicola, who is a student at Columbia University, struggles to maintain her roots while seeing a future that could lead her far from them—a future that involves a career and a love affair that would change her life forever. So, while New York’s restaurants remain closed, I will run a chapter of the Love and Pizza each week until the crisis is over. Afterwards I shall be offering the entire book digitally.    I hope you like the idea and even more that you will love Nicola, her family and her friends. I’d love to know what you think. Contact me at loveandpizza123@gmail.com
—John Mariani


To read previous chapters go to archive (beginning with March 29, 2020, issue.

LOVE AND PIZZA
 
 

By John Mariani

Cover Art By Galina Dargery





CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE



 


         Giancarlo’s driver arrived promptly at two o’clock and they were outside the city on the A4 before the rush hour hit. Less than two hours later the car turned onto the A21 towards Alba, skirted the town and headed into the foothills that give Piemonte its name.
   
They passed dozens of vineyards with names vaguely familiar to Nicola—she’d been trying to learn more about the wines of the region—then drove down a long country road lined with cypress trees and vineyards, finally coming into view of the Cavallacci villa on a rise.
         Nicola did a little research on the property and found that its original structure dated back at least three centuries before the Cavallaccis obtained the villa in the 19th century. The structure looked to be in splendid shape, the grounds well landscaped but without the kind of geometric layout found in larger villas like Rome’s Tivoli. Nor was it one of the sober-looking neo-classical 16th century villas built by Andrea Palladio in Veneto.
         Villa Cavallacci was more rustic, though highly refined, more an extravagant, three-story farmhouse set on a lake than a pillared residence with lavish landscaping.  Given the Cavallaccis’ holdings in stone and marble, the surfaces of the villa were of superb quality and kept in pristine condition—certainly a fine advertisement for the company to anyone visiting. 

         The driver pulled up to the front of the villa, where Nicola was received by a man and woman of the staff, welcoming her and taking her bag, then showing her to her room, which was about four times the size of her dorm room and decorated in a restrained décor of ceiling beams, painted tile floors, a sofa, antique writing desk and a bed covered with very fine linens and a satin cover. The bathroom was not huge but very well appointed in marble. There were two paintings on the wall, both from the late Middle Ages, their backgrounds in gold leaf.      
         There was a knock on the open door and the woman who’d received Nicola entered, carrying a bowl of fruit and fresh roses. She asked if Nicola wanted the windows opened, Nicola nodded, and soon the smell of vineyard land blew through the room to mingle with the perfume of the roses.
         Nicola was puzzled as to why she had not yet met any members of the Cavallacci family, so, in Italian, she asked the maid, “Is the Cavallacci family here yet?”
         The woman said that only the marchese and his wife were on the premises at the moment but that the others would be arriving later or the next day for the party. This report caused Nicola further puzzlement as to why the Cavallaccis had not welcomed her in person. Then she thought that perhaps the old marchese was not well that day and that his wife was tending to him in another part of the villa.
         So, she decided, there was nothing more to do than to tour the property until she was introduced to the family. As she left the front door and began walking towards the vineyards, she heard the double honk of a car horn.  A low-slung red Alfa Romeo pulled up and Giancarlo bounded out of it, running to Nicola, taking her in his arms and saying how thrilled he was to have her at his family home.
         After a few more words of welcome, he asked, “Have you met my mother and father yet?”
         Nicola shook her head and said, “No, but I was told they’re here.”
         This surprised Giancarlo, who grimaced slightly and said, “Well, perhaps my father is not feeling well today.  I’m sure they will be out to meet you soon.”
         At that, the couple heard a woman at the front door cry, “Giancarlo! Caro! Bentornato!” 
         It was the marchesa, whose Austrian blood showed clearly in both her height and coloring, her silver-white hair pulled back in a ponytail.  She was dressed casually but with definite care—a butter yellow blouse, tailored pleated tan slacks and soft brown loafers.
         Giancarlo brought Nicola over to his mother, whom he kissed on both cheeks then said, “Mamma, permettetemi di introdurre mia amica Nicola Santini.”
         Nicola put out her hand, which was taken by the marchesa, who spoke Italian with just the slightest German accent.
         “I understand you speak Italian, Signorina?”
         “Yes,” said Nicola, “My father’s people were from the Abruzzi and my mother’s from Campania.”     
         All the marchesa responded was, “Ah,” then began speaking with Giancarlo, telling him his father was not too well that day, resting up for his birthday party tomorrow.  “I don’t think he will be at dinner tonight, but he’s basically all right. Will you two be joining us for dinner?”
         “Ah, I would love to, Mamma,” said Giancarlo, sounding like a little boy, “but I promised Nicola I would take her to dinner in Torino—she’s never been there. I hope you don't mind.”
         The marchesa gave a little shrug and said, “Well, if you promised to take la signorina to Torino, I suppose there’s nothing I can do.”
         Nicola ascribed the marchesa’s coolness both to her Austrian bloodlines and to her taking offense that her darling son would not stay for dinner.  It occurred to Nicola that perhaps the marchesa had not seen her son for a while. 
         The marchesa smiled at Nicola and said, now speaking English, “Well, then, I will see you tomorrow for the party. Buona sera.”
         Nicola looked at Giancarlo with concern.  He took her by the arm and said,  “Don’t worry.  She’s disappointed we won’t dine with her, but she’ll be very busy with preparing for tomorrow and will forget all about us.”  Then Nicola remembered what Catherine had said about impressing the family and didn’t think things were off to a good start.
         During the hour’s drive to Turin, Nicola showed sincere interest in the villa’s history, and Giancarlo knew a great deal about it, having been educated and appointed to carry on the family name and its holdings. Again he told Nicola that his interests did not lie in becoming the industrial titan his father saw him as but that his fealty to his family ran very deep.
         Giancarlo then provided a few insights into the city of Turin, saying, “Not even the Italians know Turin. They only know FIAT! FIAT! FIAT!  This is not necessarily a bad thing, however, because not many tourists go there, so the city is never noisy, never crowded.  So, we Torinesi have our restaurants and caffés all to ourselves most of the time.”
         He then noted that, despite the city’s industrial image, director Michelangelo Antonioni used Milan in La Notte, Rome in L’Eclisse and Ravenna in Il Deserto Rossonot Turin—to depict the deadening effect of industrialization on the soul of modern Italy.
          As they drove into the center of the city, Nicola marveled at the long, graceful, justly famous series of arcades, the grandeur of its vast piazzas, and its stately and highly efficient grid pattern.  Giancarlo took her for a brief tour, past Victor Emmanuel II’s high baroque Royal Palace and the splendid Duomo of St. John the Baptist. 
         Giancarlo turned into the beautiful Piazza Carmignano and parked the Alfa. Dinner that evening was at Ristorante Del Cambio, a grand dining salon in the league of Savini in Milan, and was obviously chosen because the Cavallacci family had been going there for generations—perhaps since the restaurant opened back in 1757.  Since then it had entertained Casanova, Cavour, and Goldoni, and 19th century society adopted it as requisite for a visit to Turin.
         Yet by 1985 the restaurant had seen better days, its kitchen had grown tired, the dovetail coated wait staff geriatric and its historic furnishings—Neoclassical wood paneling, paintings on glass by Bonelli, and baroque stuccos—looked worn and lacked the luster that ever would have drawn someone like Nicola and her friends. 
         The young couple was, of course, given the Cavallacci’s usual table, although the place had so few guests that night—none of them under fifty—they might have sat anywhere they pleased.  Nicola opened the menu, which was a balance of continental and Piemontese cuisines, but she left the choice to Giancarlo, who had his favorite dishes, which included Del Cambio’s signature risotto alla Cavour, cooked in white wine, with a poached egg and Parmigiano to enrich it. They also enjoyed delicately flavored cannelloni stuffed with cauliflower, and stinco di vitello, a succulent and tender shank of veal braised in vegetables and wine. With their meal Giancarlo had chosen a fine Piedmont Barolo from an old producer named Pio Cesare.       
         Oddly, the conversation at the table seemed a bit staid to Nicola, which she attributed to the hushed ambiance of a room three-quarters empty.  Giancarlo didn't need to ask for the bill, of course, so after finishing their wine he said, “We’re not going to have dessert here. I want to take you to Torino’s most beautiful caffé, Baratti e Milano" (below).         The couple left arm in arm under a three-quarter moon, walking easily to Piazza Castello  (above) under the caress of the city’s archways.  When they got within ten yards of the caffé, they could already smell the aroma of coffee and chocolate.  When they entered they found just about every table occupied, but Giancarlo said he preferred to stand at the bar and have his coffee and dessert.
         The room was tantalizing to Nicola, everything Del Cambio was not. She listened to the music of the Piemontese dialect being spoken and watched the white-coated barristas grind, pack, adjust, steam, fizz, and present their handiwork in a manifestation of Turin’s deeply ingrained coffee culture, richer than anywhere else in coffee-obsessed Italy. The thunder of the shuddering coffee machine, the clink of the cups and saucers hitting the mahogany bar and the tinkle of the little spoons in the saucer never let up.  The barristas poured a glass of Asti spumante for some, a tipple of vermouth—a spirit invented in Turin—or a dark, bittersweet amaro digestiva for others. Giancarlo ordered a slice of sugar-dusted cake covered with satiny dark chocolate, with a filling of gianduja, the chocolate-and-hazelnut cream that was also created in Turin.
         The couple’s conversation had picked up, they were laughing, and Nicola took pleasure in wiping a smudge of gianduja from Giancarlo’s lips.
         During the drive home there was a quiet both young people seemed to welcome. Nicola had hoped they might stay over at the Cavallaccis’ house in Turin, but as Giancarlo drove out of the city she seemed resigned to spending the night in separate bedrooms back at the villa.  So that by midnight their night was ending. Standing outside in the villa’s vineyards, embracing and kissing in the moonlight, Nicola asked when they would be truly together for an entire night.  “It’s impossible while we are here with my family,” said Giancarlo. “But soon, Nicolina. I promise.”
         Neither slept well that night.





©
John Mariani, 2020

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

THE SPARKLING WINES OF TRENTINO
An Interview with Casa Monfort's Winemaker

By John Mariani





         Italy’s mountainous province of Trentino, usually linked with Alto Adige, is in the extreme northeast of the country, bordering Lombardy and the Veneto as well as Austria, so it shares in all those cultures’ history and language. Indeed, many of the region’s best-known dishes, like Spätzle, Graukäse cheese, Speck bacon and Zelten Christmas cake have German-Austrian names. So, too the region’s wines overlap with the others’, with Gewürztraminer, Sylaner and Riesling among the varietals.
         Trentino has its own large DOC zone, but its wines have yet to achieve the worldwide reputation of other regions like Tuscany and Piedmont.
Cantine Monfort is one of the area’s finest producers, with four generations of family passion behind it. They are fine examples of dedication to the particular terroir. To find out more about their wines and about Trentino’s reputation in the modern market, I interviewed winemaker and family scion Federico Simoni.



Lorenzo, Federico and Chiara Simoni



1. Can you tell me more about the particular terroir of Trentino?


Trentino is a small mountainous province located in Northern Italy (70% of the surface is above 1,000 meters of altitude!). Viticulture takes place in the valleys surrounded by the Dolomite mountains where the soil—a unique result of diverse geology, and Mediterranean and Alpine climate—strongly influences the grapes. In particular, our Trentodoc from Cantine Monfort is born in the vineyards located in Val dell'Adige, Val di Cembra and in Valsugana at an altitude between 200 and 900 meters above the sea level. Here you’ll find significant diurnal temperature variations, giving grapes aromatic complexity, elegance and freshness and with terroir that is rich in limestone with a high siliceous component.

 

2. Do the wines share anything in common with Austrian-German wines?

From a tasting point of view, the wines of Trentino represent a bridge between the Latin world and the world of Austria-Germany. We combine both the pleasantness and sweetness of the Mediterranean but also the verticality typical of Nordic wines. These are the wines that best represent Trentodoc. From a historical point of view, we have a long history and strong influence from the German wine culture and I think that the most important legacy for us oenologists from Trentino was the famous school of oenology, the now called Edmund Mach Foundation, founded by the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1874.

 

 3. Can you tell the similarities of your sparkling wines with Champagne, Piemonte sparkling wines and Prosecco?

Trentodoc was born from the intuition of Giulio Ferrari in the early 20th century. In fact, after having worked in France, he began the production of metodo classico in Trentino. Today, following in the footsteps of this famous pioneer, the Trentodoc denomination allows for the use of four varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco and Meunier, and guarantees second fermentation in the bottle. Trentodoc is like Champagne in this way, and the shared classic method is a commitment to make wine of the upmost quality. The similarity I find with Prosecco and Piedmont sparkling wines is the “Italianness” of the final result: our Italian way of putting boundless passion and creativity into the things we do.

 

4. Your wines spend a good deal of time on the lees. What is the purpose of this method?

Thanks to the research by the Edmund Mach Foundation (in addition to the school there is a lot of research!), they discovered that the contact with the lees following the second fermentation in the bottle increases both the number of aromatic molecules and their quantity, which continues to develop over time. Here we can enjoy a Trentodoc aged for a long time on the lees as well as those disgorged after extraordinary lengths of time, both types showing a different evolution and maturity. In this regard, we will shortly propose our first Monfort Rare Vintage 2008, disgorged in January 2020 after 11 years of aging on the lees. Just a few bottles that demonstrate that aging on the lees is good.

 

5. What is your own background as a winemaker?

I grew up in the family business and was raised right in the vineyards. I was lucky enough to have a dad who was able to let me do it, let me make mistakes and thus learn from my mistakes. During my studies at the Istituto di San Michele and immediately afterwards I had internship experiences that helped me a lot: Fontodi (Tuscany), Albrecht-Kiessling (Germany), Château Margaux (France) and Spy Valley (New Zealand ). No experiences with metodo classico but all based on the high quality wines. However, the production in the company is not entrusted only to me, but to a team of people that I respect a lot, with the senior oenologist Maurizio Iachemet, flanked by Lorenzo Pellegrini, my fellow student, also trained as an oenologist.

 

 6. Why do you think Trentino has not gotten the same attention that other Italian regions have?

Given that Trentino represents 2% of national production, I think that after the war it has undergone numerous changes and has only began to establish itself as an area that produces high quality in the last 30 years. I’ll add that as mountain people, we are hard workers but of few words, so we have always found it difficult to describe our products. I am convinced that the new generations, who are open and traveling the world, will be able to take the baton that our parents have passed us and move forward with the development of alternative techniques and a different approach to the market.

 

7. How many different sparkling wines do you make?

Cantine Monfort produces three Trentodoc: base, reserva and rosé. Starting from the latter, the Trentodoc Monfort Rosè is a product that was introduced with the 2008 harvest. We immediately understood that we liked to make rosè. We seek its maximum expression in elegance, and the consumer continues to appreciate it more. This 2020 ends with the presentation of Monfort Cuvée '85, a Trentodoc made from a selection of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero grapes, elevating the original recipe of the cuvée produced for the first time in 1985. Moreover, at the end of the year we’ll release, for the first time, our Monfort Rare Vintage 2008, a late disgorgement of great character. In 2021 we will start the year with the evolution of our Monfort Riserva, which will come out with a new cuvée that enhances the territory and its vertical characteristics. I cannot reveal the name yet, but in January we will be ready to start 2021 in the best way. We are also refining another Trentodoc that I am particularly fond of: our Blanc de Noir which comes from Maurizio’s old Pinot Nero vineyards in Val di Cembra, he is our senior winemaker. However, we have to be patient a little longer.

 

8. What are the principal wine varieties you use?

Cantine Monfort uses Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Over the last few years, we have defined the vineyards we allocate for the various types we produce, and this is really something interesting. It surprises me every time how vineyards managed by the same winemaker, vinified by the same winemaker, give different characteristics in relation to the geological component of the soil. Very beautiful.

 

9. How has climate change affected Trentino?

Trentino is an area affected by climate change whose aspects of most concern that are intensely being manifested over the last 5-6 years are the very strong winds, the hailstorms that can hit large areas and the unprecedented heavy rain storms. We face global warming by raising the share of Trentino's viticulture and in this, compared to other territories, we have an advantage, but honestly, in recent years, production has become very complex.

 

10. How has Covid affected Trentino, its wine sales, tourism, etc.

Trentodoc is something that brings people together; you can pop a bottle of metodo classico when you want to celebrate or when you are in good company, but since the lockdown made this impossible, sales have gone down. During the summer of 2020 we recovered sales and today we are happy. At the end of October, we can only hope that the new restrictions will not affect consumption too much since the last months of the year are very important for our sales. The same thing goes for tourism. We had a record summer for the winery; in fact, many tourists, mostly Italians, literally invaded the region (lakes, excursions in the Dolomites, wine tourism). However, winter tourism linked to the numerous ski resorts throughout our Trentino is at risk. As far as exports are concerned, each country reacted differently: we have not been affected by the crisis in countries with very strong domestic consumption; indeed, in some we have also increased sales (Sweden, Germany, Holland), while in more tourist locations we have had a strong slowdown with positive signs only in recent months (for example Mexico).




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ONE OF MANY THINGS
WE DOUBT GRANOLA
EVER CHANGED


"The Mentor We Miss Most: Molly O’Neill: The writer and chef’s LongHouse Food Scholars Program changed many a writers' lives—and so did her granola."—Ellen Grey, Saveur (Oct. 2020).











MOST SHOCKING HEADLINE OF THE WEEK!

"Coffee Ice Cream May Contain Caffeine" by Taylor Rock, DailyMeal.com (Pct. 19, 2020)














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Sponsored by






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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             





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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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