MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  April 11,   2021                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

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Orson Welles in "Citizen Kane" (1941)



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IN THIS ISSUE
IL GATTOPARDO, NYC
By John Mariani

CAPONE'S GOLD
Chapter Two
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SPRINGTIME WINES
By John Mariani




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IL GATTOPARDO, NYC
BRINGS BACK REFINEMENT TO
CUCINA ALL'ITALIANA


By John Mariani



 

         Last week I reported on how New York’s finest French restaurant, Le Bernardin, had reopened and proved the resilience of the city’s fine dining segment. So, this week I am just as happy to report that the city’s finest Italian restaurant, Il Gattopardo, located in a former John D. Rockefeller townhouse across from the Museum of Modern Art, run by Gianfranco and Paula Sorrentino and Chef Vito Gnazzo (left), is showing the same commitment to maintaining fine dining with an Italian flair and refinement that have always been its hallmark.
      Named after the great 1958 novel of Sicilian life, Il Gattopardo, by Giuseppe di Lampedusa, the restaurant is spread on two floors of the Beaux Art townhouse. Upstairs is the main dining room, downstairs a vast party room, and in their streamlined minimalist décor both make good stylistic neighbors to MoMA across the street. The lighting is soft and glowing in the dining room, the walls free of artwork, and the comfortable chairs, double tablecloths, thin wine glasses, fine china and fresh flowers maintain the metropolitan level of sophistication.
         The mostly Italian wine list exceeds 300 labels, all selected by the affable Gianfranco himself, still with many wines under $50. Gnazzo, from Salerno, had worked at the renowned Antica Osteria del Ponte outside Milan, then at the equally esteemed Rex in Los Angeles. At Il Gattopardo he shows a further upgrading of cucina Italiana, proudly specializing in Southern Italian classics that he makes the most of, never elaborating when perfect simplicity can be so key to a dish’s success.
       We left ourselves in his hands for a tasting menu that began with smoked mozzarella called provola in a hearty pizzaiolo sauce of tomato and basil ($25 à la carte), and cuttlefish and artichokes sautéed with a touch of anchovy and white wine over frisée greens with sun-dried plum tomatoes and Taggiasca olives ($26). Both showed the bright color and sun-enriched flavors of Gnazzo’s home region, as did a pasta of buffalo ricotta gnocchi with black truffles, sweet sausage and toasted mascarpone cheese ($45). This was a lavish dish (and all portions as a main course are  generous) in which the gnocchi (below) are enhanced, not covered over, by the other ingredients.  If you are a fan of bottarga (dried roe), you will love the spaghetti with grey mullet bottarga, garlic, parsley, extra virgin olive oil and a hint of crushed Calabrian red pepper ($30). I found the bottarga flavor too pronounced, when it might have been subtler.
     Gnazzo treats Sardinian fregola (left) like risotto and enriches it with spring’s sweet asparagus tips and sea scallops ($32), a dish that exemplifies a more delicate touch of which texture has as much to do with the dish as taste.
      Rombo, or turbot ($140 for two), is a wonderfully gelatinous form of brill that usually does not translate well when shipped across the Atlantic, but Gnazzo’s treatment, simply roasted and glossed with olive oil and parsley, with sautéed broccoli di rabe on the side, was impeccable. The fish, lifted from the bone, had a velvety fat and sweetness, and it was remarkably filling.
      Unlike most Italian restaurants both here and in Italy, desserts are not an afterthought at Il Gattopardo. The deeply satisfying m
ousse di cioccolato (left) with Aglianico wine heart ($18), and the tangy sweet “Delizia al limone” of  sponge cake soaked in Limoncello Amalfitano with white chocolate curls ($18), are delights, and don’t miss the traditional Neapolitan cheesecake called pastiera ($18) made with wheatberries.
     
Thanks to the Museum also being open and the restaurant’s location on a street of townhouses, even lunch is feasible. Il Gattopardo also serves brunch on Saturdays and Sundays with items like ricotta pancakes with berries and maple syrup ($21) and eggs in a spicy cherry tomato sauce with pancetta bacon ($24).
      The Sorrentinos also run the little trattoria Mozzarella e Vino (now under reconstruction) next door and, up near Lincoln Center, the very fine Leopard at Café des Artistes. All share the dedication to keeping the best that Italy has to offer in terms of ingredients, cooking and service that can be found in New York right now, and it’s a beacon for others to follow as restaurants recover from the pandemic.

 

IL GATTOPARDO
13-15 West 54th Street (near Fifth Avenue)
212-246-0412

 

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CAPONE’S GOLD


By John Mariani 



CHAPTER TWO


        Under Prohibition Al Capone achieved the notorious title of Public Enemy Number One, along with a celebrity status no other mobster of any era ever came close to attaining.  And though he was never indicted for what the newspapers called the “Saint Valentine’s Day Massacre,” in which seven rival gang members were slaughtered, that atrocity triggered a public outrage and response by the newly formed F.B.I. that would ultimately lead to Capone’s incarceration—for tax evasion.
       By the age of nineteen Capone was already deeply involved with the New York Italian mobs as a thug, garnering his hated nickname “Scarface” after being slashed with a stiletto in a bar fight.  Capone moved to Chicago in 1919, after he had antagonized too many New York gangsters, and from there he rose to pre-eminence as the nation’s most powerful and ruthless crime warlord, rubbing out his competition and taking over more and more territory in the Windy City. By 1930 he was raking in $30 million a year.
        Such extravagant wealth allowed Capone to create for himself a new public image as a friend to the poor, donating lavishly to charity and the Catholic Church.  If a local diocese needed a new roof on its church, a new altar, vestments, Capone made sure the parish got it.  He regarded those donations as a kind of security and protection, hoping God would see them as the better part of his nature.   
        But by then he was running scared, especially after his brother Frank was gunned down on the street. Capone’s widowed mother, Teresina, had every reason to believe God had cursed her family for whose future she feared in life and death.  She agonized that Frank might already be in hell and that Al would follow him there, so she asked her son to send her back to her hometown of Angri, where she could pray for her remaining family in the church of San Giovanni Battista, where she spent the next six months at the convent. It was at that time that the tradition of keeping an eternal vigil of lighted candles began in the church.
        After a near-miss attempt on his life and word that a $50,000 bounty had been set on his head, Capone began seriously thinking of getting out of the rackets, settling as a legitimate businessman at his mansion estate on Palm Island, Florida (right). 
        So it was almost laughable irony that, having avoided being murdered, or sent away for life for his criminal activities, Capone was finally arrested, charged and sent to federal prison for tax evasion, as had other mobsters like Frank Nitti and Bugs Moran.  Capone was given a sentence of ten years, eventually ending up in the new high security Alcatraz Island Prison in San Francisco Bay (below).
    By then, Capone’s health had deteriorated, particularly from the effects of untreated syphilis acquired a decade before.  At one point an Alcatraz guard told a newsman, “The guy’s as screwy as a bedbug.”
        But one thing that always brightened Al’s spirit was the knowledge that the I.R.S. still couldn’t find any of his money assets, despite orders that he pay hundreds of thousands of dollars in taxes and fines.  During the years he was in prison, of course, money had not been rolling into his coffers.  What’s more, Capone needed to avenge himself on those who put him in prison, and he developed a plan to pull off the heist of something so precious and so well protected that no other gangster had ever dreamed of.  
        As a youngster, he had heard about the infamous Great Gold Robbery of bullion back in 1855 (below) when 91 kilograms of gold were stolen from a train at London Bridge intended to be loaded onto a steamship for delivery in Boulogne, France. Three boxes of bullion, bound by iron bands, which needed two different keys to open, arrived in Boulogne as scheduled but upon being opened they contained only 13 ingots along with sixteen bags of lead shot.
         The robber gang had somehow made copies of the keys, opened the boxes, and replaced the gold, then spent the next three days melting the ingots down in a West London furnace. All the robbers were eventually caught.
         During his time in prison, with plenty of time to plan crimes, the idea of stealing gold from the feds became an obsession for Capone, especially after President Roosevelt issued an executive order in 1933 that outlawed private ownership of gold coins, certificates and bullion, forcing their sale to the Federal Reserve, which had to build a storage bank for it all.  In 1936, the Treasury Department began the construction of the United States Bullion Depository at Fort Knox, Kentucky, using 500 railway cars protected by federal agents to deliver the gold.
         Once inside, the gold was safe from any possible attempts to break into the vault, whose walls were 21 inches thick and whose main door weighed 20 tons. In addition, the Depository was next to the Fort Knox Army base and was therefore protected even from foreign invasion.
         Capone spent three years and countless hours trying to figure out a way of stealing gold without breaking into that vault. Finally, passing the plans to his gang on the outside, he was able to put into effect a plan that worked brilliantly.  Realizing that hijacking a federally protected train was impossible, he instead went after the armored trucks that transported the gold to smaller Federal Reserve Banks around the country until ready for shipment to Fort Knox (left).  Capone’s people on the inside knew exactly when and where the trucks would begin their journey. He zeroed in on a shipment intended to go to the Detroit branch bank (below) on East Warren Avenue. 
         The truck took a deliberately circuitous route eastward through Michigan, but before it reached Ann Arbor, Capone’s gang blocked the road, with a dozen heavily armed, hooded men circling the truck, making it clear to the occupants that if they did not surrender the truck would be blown up with them in it.  Capone’s men knew that, in fact, the armored truck crewmen were directed by the feds not to engage with hijackers in such numbers. So the crew piled out of the truck and gave the hijackers access to the gold.  Capone’s men tied up the truck driver and guards, took their keys, and destroyed their radio transmitters.
         Leaving the truck disabled, the hijackers loaded the gold onto waiting trucks of their own, and then the bullion seemed to disappear into thin air. 
         The plan had been to ransom the gold after Capone had been freed from prison, which he was in 1939, but the outbreak of World War II made that impossible, so he waited on Palm Island, looking out over the aqua blue waters of Biscayne Bay and thinking there was plenty of time later to contact the feds.  By then he figured he’d be either completely legit or retired for good.  He grew fat on the thought.
         But Capone’s body and mind, ravaged by syphilis, finally drew his thoughts every which way. Mostly, he still feared someone would shoot him down in the streets.  Nothing made any sense anymore. He remembered the gold but couldn’t keep his mind on what he intended to do with it.  Towards the end, when a trusted crony would ask about the gold, all Capone would say was “God only knows.”
       On January 21, 1947,  Al Capone,  48, suffered a stroke and went into a coma.  Four nights later, his heart went into cardiac arrest and he died.  


 NOTE: You may read each chapter as its appears or has appeared by going to:  Capone's Gold


 © John Mariani 2015


 


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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


SPRINGTIME WINES
By John Mariani


      Spring is finally here and no better time to try some of the fine new bottlings in the market with the springtime foods coming in. Here are some good examples. 



Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois
($80)—The label tells the tale: It looks like barrel wood, and this sumptuous and creamy non-vintage Champagne is entirely aged in wood, not stainless steel, yet it is not in the least oaky, but instead has a roundness and lingers on the palate. Other than a sirloin steak, I’d drink this with anything.


 


Yamhill Valley Pinot Gris 2019 ($22)—Plenty of fruit distinguishes this Oregon pinot gris from lesser French examples or Italian pinot grigios. It was a very hot summer, so the fruit’s sugar combined beautifully with the acids. The lees were stirred a few times in the process of fermentation by winemaker Ariel Eberle. . At 13% alcohol it’s right where it should be for easy drinking.


 


Decoy Merlot 2018 ($25)—From Napa’s Duckhorn Vineyards, famous for its Merlots, comes this Sonoma appellation with the richness and velvety softness you seek in the varietal, which also has 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot for added nuance. At less than 14% alcohol it works throughout the meal. Drink it all spring and summer along with grilled foods.


 


Laetitia Estate Chardonnay 2019 ($22)—If you like body in your west coast Chardonnays without the icky oak of so many, this Arroyo Grande Valley example with 13.4% alcohol is impressive. The Pacific Ocean is just three miles from the estate, so the cooling effect is important to keeping the  grapes’ development through a rainy season. Aged for 10 months in French oak. With Pacific seafood like mahi-mahi and Dungeness crab, this is terrific.


 


Rotari Brut Rosé 2014 ($23)—The onslaught of rosé wines in the market is in full swing, and this vintage blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Trentino benefits from Dolomite terroir 550 meters high, with good sun exposure that balances the sugars and acids and 12.5% alcohol. It’s a festive rosé but one you could drink with appetizers and all shellfish. Six years of aging has developed levels of complexity not usually seen in Italian sparkling wines.


 


Youngberg Hill Aspen Chardonnay 2019 ($40)—No, this is not made in the Colorado Rockies; it’s the name of the winemaker’s youngest daughter. The estate was originally planted as Pinot Gris but replanted with Chardonnay that shows the restraint, despite nine months in barrel, that Oregon examples can achieve in terms of richness at just 12% alcohol. With Alaskan cod you won’t find a better match.


 


Ca di Prata Valdobbiadene Extra Dry ($19)—Made from 85% Glera and 15% other varieties, this DOCG Prosecco rises above so many examples by retaining a slight sweetness that expresses the fruit. The acid is delightful and on a spring afternoon you could sip this with anything from a green salad with white cheeses to ripe fruits and biscotti.


 


Aia Vecchia “Lagone” 2018 ($17)—Wines from Italy’s Bolgheri region can be ridiculously pricey for only mediocre quality, but this IGT blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc is exemplary from Ornellaia winemaker Tibor Gal. It’s well knit, satisfies the palate from tip of the tongue to the back of the throat and at $17 is simply unbeatable.


 


Castello Pomino Benefizio Riserva 2018 ($40)—Italian Chardonnays are, generally, fairly dull wines, tasting too much of the aging barrels and too little of the grape. But Castello Pomino has been at it for 150 years now, so they know their terroir well. The result is a wine whose grapes are gently crushed, undergo a cold clarification, then placed in barriques for the fermentation. It is a very elegant Chardonnay as good as French examples twice its price. (It’s also sold in magnum, which is ideal for a party of six or more.) An ideal match for spaghetti with clam sauce or branzino on the grill.


 


Mettler Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2018 ($25)—You have to ferret out good Petite Sirahs and this is one to seek. It’s got the characteristic taste of the grape (Durif in the Rhône Valley) and, coming from Lodi, California, the structure and big fruit you get from sunny vineyards. The 14.5% alcohol is about right for this varietal, which used to be used to bolster other red wines. Excellent wine with pork or ribs.


 


Trasgaia Toscana 2013 ($28)—Do you want to spend $28 for a wine of unknown origin, owing to IGT laws that allow it only to be designated “Toscana?” Yes, in this case (and many others) you do. The word I wrote in big bold letters on the label was SOLID!!, and I find out it’s from an organic vineyard in Castellina with a 1,000-year history. The blend is 50% Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Franc, matured for 24 months in oak and five years of development inside the bottle. That amount of aging proves the legacy of the estate, and its 14% alcohol is right on the mark.


 


Finca Martelo Reserva 2015 ($33)—This is 95% Tempranillo from 60-year-old vines, with some Garnacha and a touch of Viura, chosen from three vineyards by winemaker Julio Sáenz. It spent 24 months in French and American oak with weekly bâttonages and bottled in 2017. It’s got the intensity that a reserva should have, lots of fruit but a ballast of softening tannins and good spice. With grilled lamb it will be perfect.


 


Viña Alberdi Reserva 2016 Rioja ($23)—Another enchanting Rioja reserva. If you’d never tasted a red wine before and you tasted this, you would know everything you need to about the rich quality of today’s Rioja Alta wines. It is truly sumptuous and I’d think about what red meats to serve with it rather than the other way around.

 

 













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FOOD WRITING 1O1: BLOCK THAT SIMILE!

"Lobster tails mostly come frozen, like ice cream and woolly mammoths. That’s because, unlike your regular swimmy-type fishes—your anchovy, your bream, your cod—lobsters don’t take well to being dead."—James P. DeWan, Daily Meal (4/7/21).













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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


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"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

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"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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