MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
ARCHIVE William Powell and Carole Lombard in "Our Man Godfrey" (1936)
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IN THIS ISSUE WHY PARMIGIANO REGGIANO IS CALLED "THE KING OF CHEESES" By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER SALINAS TEN YEARS LATER By John Mariani CAPONE'S GOLD Chapter Seven By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR BREAK OUT THE WINE AND SPIRITS AS YOU BRING OUT THE GRILL By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. May
19 at 11AM EST,I will be
interviewing Lynn DiMenna,
chanteuse and authority on cabaret, who
will be speaking about male singers of
the 1950s. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ WHY PARMIGIANO REGGIANO IS CALLED "THE KING OF CHEESES" By John Mariani It’s a reasonable question to ask why,
since all cheeses are made from the same
ingredients—cow, ewe or goat’s milk—are there
such myriad differences among the thousands of
types from so many countries. To
find out why Parmigiano Reggiano is
un-reproducible anywhere but around Parma, I
asked Nicola Bertinelli (left), a
producer and President of the Parmigiano
Reggiano Consortium, about the cheese’s
uniqueness. What
are
the elements that make Parmigiano Reggiano
cheese unique and unreproducible anywhere else
in Italy?
Culture and tradition strongly bind
Parmigiano Reggiano to its area of origin,
ensuring that it cannot be manufactured anywhere
else in the world, even if the exact same
production techniques are used. It is first and
foremost a microbiological characteristic that
binds Parmigiano Reggiano to its area of origin
that includes the provinces of Parma, Reggio
Emilia, Modena and Bologna to the left of the
River Reno, and in Mantua to the right of the
River Po.
I am going to summarize the main
differences for you in seven points: •
Production in 5 provinces The
production area of Parmigiano Reggiano is more
localized. By contrast, Grana Padano can be
produced from farms located in 33 provinces
between Lombardy, Veneto, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna
and Trentino Alto Adige (limited to the province
of Trento and some municipalities in the province
of Bolzano). •
No additives Parmigiano
Reggiano is made with no additives and its
production specifications also prohibit the use of
natural additives. However, Grana Padano allows
the use of lysozyme, a protein extracted from
hen’s egg white, to control unwanted fermentation. •
Only hay and grass To
make Parmigiano Reggiano, cows are exclusively fed
hay and grass (alfalfa and stable meadows),
without using silage or fermented forage. Grana
Padano allows the use of silage in the feed. •
Minimum and average
maturation The
minimum maturation period for Parmigiano Reggiano
is 12 months and, although the average maturation
period is 24 months, the cheese can be matured for
much longer—30 months and beyond. Grana Padano is
marked at 9 months and on average consumed at 15
months. •
Only natural fermented
whey Parmigiano
Reggiano dairies exclusively use natural fermented
whey as a bacterial starter to boost the
microbiological process. Grana
Padano allows the use of lactic bacteria isolated
in a laboratory from dairies’ natural fermented
whey, albeit this is limited to 12 times per year. •
Quality inspection Parmigiano
Reggiano boasts a 100% quality-control rate as the
selection carried out by the Consortium during
quality inspection (suitability assessment) at 12
months is performed on every single wheel. For
Grana Padano, such a selection only occurs at 9
months and only on some wheels. •
Dairies and annual
production In
2019, 3,754,192 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano were
produced in 321 dairies, while 5,164,59 wheels of
Grana Padano were produced in 128 dairies. Last but
not least, the price of milk for Parmigiano
Reggiano cost on average 35-45% more than Grana
Padano. This data simply reflects the consumer's
willingness to pay a higher price as a summary of
the points of distinctiveness listed. If the
differences listed were not important to the
consumer, they would not be willing to pay such a
higher price for Parmigiano Reggiano.
The cattle producing milk intended for the
production of Parmigiano Reggiano follow a
specific diet. The specifications set out that
forage should mostly be procured locally, with at
least 50% of the forage being grown by the dairy
farm, and at least 75% should be grown within the
production area. The area of origin has a surface
of approximately 3,861 square miles, and therefore
there is an intrinsic limit to the Parmigiano
Reggiano production but, given the surfaces, there
is still an area of significant potential growth. What makes one
wheel Parmigiano Reggiano better than another?
Every wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano is quality
tested at an age of about 12 months. Any wheels
that don’t meet the quality requirements of the
Consortium descend into total anonymity: after the
hammer test (below), they are "bleached,"
that is, the characteristic dots impressed on the
rind are mechanically removed. There is no such
thing as “second-rate” Parmigiano Reggiano. Either
the cheese is worthy of the name, or it simply
cannot be called Parmigiano Reggiano.
But, of course, every wheel is different
from another. If
it is a “young” Parmigiano Reggiano of 12
months, it will be delicate, with hints of milk,
yogurt and fresh fruit (perfect for enriching
salads and it combines perfectly with a sparkling
white wine); a 36-month-old cheese, on the other
hand, has a stronger flavor, with notes of spices,
nuts and meat stock, and is the ideal ingredient
in stuffed pastas, or to be enjoyed at the end of
a meal with fruit and honey, paired with a complex
wine, a good Marsala or even a Trentino Grappa.
And it’s not just a question of maturation stages,
but of cow breeds as well. There is the Modena
White Cow, the Reggiana Red Cow, the Brown Cow and
the Italian Friesian. Just as there are
“certified” products that meet all kinds of needs:
from Mountain product to Kosher, Halal and
Organic. How
important is the length of aging? How much is
probably too long?
The minimum maturation period is 12 months,
but Parmigiano Reggiano reaches a degree of
maturation that fully expresses its typical
characteristics at approximately 24 months. It can
mature up to 40, 50 months or longer, acquiring
unexpected and unparalleled flavors and aromas. In
maturation, thanks to the action of the enzymes
released by lactic bacteria, proteins are broken
down into smaller pieces, free peptides and amino
acids, the basic bricks of the protein chain. This
action of protein breakdown (proteolysis)
determines the structure and sensory properties of
Parmigiano Reggiano and its high digestibility.
The different degrees of maturation give rise to
varying aromatic sensations and make it
particularly versatile in the kitchen and suitable
for several preparations and pairings. Is
it true that Parmigiano Reggiano should be cut
with a spade-like utensil, not a knife blade?
Yes,
when
the cheese is served during a social situation, it
is best chunked with the classic almond-shaped
knife, which will enhance the characteristic
graininess of Parmigiano Reggiano. How
has climate change affected the region?
Parmigiano Reggiano is the product of an
extraordinary and exclusive link with the
environment. Under a centuries-old agreement, the
Parmigiano Reggiano farmers and master
cheese-makers restore the rightful care and
passion to this land, becoming the source of life,
work, loyalty and the memory of a great tradition.
The name itself, Parmigiano Reggiano, sums up the
exclusive link with the land that gives rise to
this product.
More than a matter of price, it is a
question of taste. Each cheese has its own
personality and their use is quite codified in the
Italian regional cuisine. The first time many of
us tasted Parmigiano Reggiano it was grated. And
it's incredibly good, right?
That said, the key to the success of
Parmigiano Reggiano is its versatility. Parmigiano
Reggiano is used in the kitchen not just for the
traditional “sprinkling” over first courses, but
also to give a touch of character to meat, fish
and even desserts. This is the reason why
Parmigiano Reggiano is found in every country in
the world, with an export share that grows every
year and has already exceeded the goal of 44%. You
can be daring with Parmigiano Reggiano!
I believe it is a combination of various
factors. On the one hand, consumers have evolved
and today they know how to appreciate the product
more. On the other hand, there are more cheeses to
offer with the different maturations and
biodiversity, increasing the chances of finding a
Parmigiano Reggiano suitable for everyone’s taste. What
percentage of Parmigiano Reggiano is now
exported and how much to the US?
The Parmigiano Reggiano market is becoming
ever more international. The export share is 44%
(+10.7% of volume growth vs. previous year). The
United States is the first market (20% of overall
export, roughly 12,000 tons), followed by France
(19%), Germany (18%), the United Kingdom (13%) and
Canada (5%). Are
there any recipes for cooking with Parmigiano
Reggiano?
There are plenty of recipes for cooking
with Parmigiano Reggiano on parmigianoreggiano.us.
Since spring is coming, I recommend an easy one
for an outdoor aperitif with friends.
Looking ahead to the future, supply chain
and product protection are the focus for the
coming years. Animal welfare and product
typicality have always been an essential pillar of
the Consortium’s strategy. In the 2021 budget, the
Board of Directors has foreseen a first three-year
2021/23 investment of approximately 10 million
euros to promote virtuous behavior of the farms in
the supply chain aimed at improving animal welfare
standards in the individual supply chains of the
dairy farms.
The Consortium estimates that the turnover
of fake parmesan outside the European Union (from
Brazilian parmesao
to Argentine reggianito, spread
across all continents) is 2 billion euros, about
200,000 tons of product, or 15 times the volume of
Parmigiano Reggiano exported. Even to this day,
too many consumers outside the EU still buy
generic cheeses believing they are buying the
original PDO product. The Consortium will always
be at the forefront in the fight against Italian
sounding products.
I believe that there is a real vocation for
the production of Parmigiano Reggiano in our
lands. We are aware that the reason why our
product has become, over the centuries, an
authentic expression of Made in Italy agribusiness
is because we have always been faithful to our
principles. Parmigiano Reggiano indeed is
essentially produced about nine centuries ago:
using the same ingredients (milk, salt and
rennet), with the same craftsmanship and
production technique that has undergone very few
changes over the centuries, thanks to the decision
to keep a fully natural production.
The different degrees of maturation give
rise to varying aromatic sensations and make it
particularly versatile in the kitchen and suitable
for several preparations and pairings. “Fresh”
Parmigiano of 12-18 months can be accompanied by a
dry white wine with good acidity, such as
Vernaccia di San Gimignano or a bottle-fermented
sparkling wine, such as Franciacorta, Trento
Classico or Champagne. At 24 months of age,
Parmigiano Reggiano can be combined with red wines
of varying structure such as Sangiovese di
Romagna, Gutturnio or Chianti Classico. A 36
months goes extremely well with red wines of body
and structure (for example Barolo, Barbaresco or
Brunello di Montalcino) and with white raisin
wines (such as Albana di Romagna) or meditation
wines. What
are
the nutritional benefits?
Made with only milk, salt, and rennet,
Parmigiano Reggiano is naturally lactose free with
no additives or preservatives and it’s also a
source of phosphorous and rich in calcium. This
makes it ideal for everyone, from children to the
elderly. The milk used to make this world-renowned
cheese also never undergoes heat treatment,
therefore it features all the richness of lactic
ferments naturally present in it.
NEW YORK
CORNER
SALINAS TEN YEARS LATER 136
Ninth Avenue (near 18th
Street) 212-776-1990
By John Mariani
Now a
decade in business and having gotten through the
pandemic, Salinas in New York’s Chelsea
neighborhood has been the city’s premier Spanish
restaurant, not least because of the dogged
presence and dedication of chef-owner Luis Bollo,
who is as boyish looking as when I first met him
back in 2000, when he and partner Ignacio Blanco
ran Meigas in TriBeCa. That restaurant, which I
praised as one of the 20 Best New Restaurants of
the Year in Esquire,
had to close in the aftermath of damage on 9/11,
but I picked up his trail in New Haven, where he
and Blanco ran Ibiza.
The two men parted at
some point, with Blanco opening an Ibiza in
Chappaqua (which I reviewed in April) and Bollo
setting up shop at Salinas, which also made my Esquire
list. Since then I have always regarded Salinas as
among the restaurants I most look forward to
returning to, not only because I know the food
will be consistently good, but because Bollo is
constantly inventing new, tantalizing dishes to
try. The menu has always leaned towards the tapas
style of Spain, particularly that of San
Sebastián, but goes much further than most in
using the best seasonal ingredients from all over.
Early on, at Meigas, he incorporated some of
Ferran Adria’s modernist ideas about Spanish food
but abandoned all of the excrescences of that
promotional style. Now his food is more rustic,
but wonderfully conceived and beautifully
presented.
Tapas prices
range from $9 to $16, rice dishes $24-$29 and
large plates $25-$30. ❖❖❖ CAPONE’S
GOLD
CHAPTER SEVEN
Katie Cavuto had never been to
Chicago and found it one of the most beautiful
American cities she’d ever seen—its majestic
skyline on the lake, the broad avenues, the
generous lack of density that allows light to
bathe the buildings and streets. She
hoped she would have time to take in some of
the city’s sites and museums but she was on a
tight schedule and didn’t want to put too much
on her expense account. She got a good deal on
a room at the Drake Hotel.
*
*
*
While Katie
was having her lunch, David was on the phone
with his old colleagues and sources in order to
get back in touch with mob history in New York
and, by extension, Chicago. How did Capone’s
story overlap with those of the New York gangs?
Did anyone ever speak about Capone’s gold heist,
which would have been legendary among competing
gangsters. No one had ever pulled off such a
crime in American history. Someone must have
known something.
© John Mariani, 2015
❖❖❖ NOTES
FROM THE WINE CELLAR
BREAK
OUT THESE WINES AND SPIRITS WHEN With warmer
weather in the offing, cold weather parts of the
country will start sprouting outdoor grills.
Here are some wines, and one Mezcal, that will
go very well with what’s on the charcoals.
Brancott
Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($12)—Too many New Zealand Sauvignon
Blancs taste like fruit punch, but this is more
restrained by what Brancott calls “gentle bag
pressing to achieve fresh, elegant juice.” Elegant
or not, this is a fine cool climate white wine in
a year whose weather prevented any disease from
developing in the vineyards. With 13% alcohol you
can drink it with pretty much anything but red
meat all summer long. Justin Sauvignon
Blanc Central Coast 2020
($16)—An excellent price for an excellent
California Sauvignon Blanc that does not express
too much grassiness and instead has a rounded and
very full flavor.
At 13.5% alcohol it is congenial to drink
but is distinguished by its varietal flavor. I can’t
think of anything better than this wine with
goat’s cheese in any form, including gently set on
the grill to get creamy or with a salad that does
not have too much vinegar.
Siduri
Chardonnay 2019
($25)—Another refined example of Willamette Valley
terroir, showing that a cool climate is kind to
grapes like Chardonnay that can be so easily
manipulated. It spent 10 months in 25% new French
oak, which gives it just enough of a sweet
undertone and maintains a good balance of acid.
This is the ideal white wine for grilled salmon
and almost every shellfish. Laetitia
Estate Chardonnay 2019
($22)—Very high-quality at a modest price for this
first-rate Chardonnay from the Arroyo Grande
Valley. It has youth on its side and will show
well this summer with appetizers like clams, crab
and oysters. The vineyards are only 3 miles from
the Pacific ocean and that cooling wind has a very
positive effect on the grapes. Chandon
Brut ($24.50)—Chandon
calls this their “go to” California sparkling
wine, which seems a bit modest except that you
really could drink this on a regular basis
throughout the summer as a fine apéritif. It has
just the right balance of fruit, sugar, acid and
bubbles to carry you through an entire meal and
serve it with cheeses also. Il
Conte Villa Prandone Lu Kont Rosso 2016 ($35)—The wines of the Marche region in
Eastern Italy are neither well-known nor much
exported because they didn’t used to have that
much to offer outside of the region itself. This
is changing and Il Conte Villa Prandone is showing
that they can compete with the better wines of
Abruzzo, Puglia and southern Italy. It’s a little
expensive but it’s a very fine red and it’s
delicious with grilled chicken or pork. Domaine
Faiveley Mercurey Clos Rochette 2018 ($35)—Faiveley has achieved a fine balance
between maintaining tradition and being in the
forefront of French regional winemaking. Clos
Rochette is an 11-acre monopole of the domain with
very rocky, clay-rich soil with some lime stone
and gravel. The vines date back to 1960, and the
resulting wines spend 10 to 12 months in stainless
steel, which preserves their freshness and fruit.
Wines of Mercurey in the Burgundy region tend to
be early maturing, so this is really ready to
drink right now. Forte Masso Barolo Castelletto
2015
($70)—This is one of the most delicious Barolos I
have tasted this spring and, even though it’s a
bit high in alcohol, the layers of flavors
impressed me, especially for its distinct flavor
of the Nebbiolo grape in Piedmont. Perfect with
lamb grilled over a fire. Lassègue
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2017
($60)—I like the way so many French vineyards do
not brag on their labels with effusive notes and
poetry. This is a straightforward Saint-Émilion
with all of the richness that you expect from a
grand cru. It
is predominantly or perhaps all Merlot, maybe with
some Cabernet Franc (locally called Bouchet) in
the blend. At $60 it is not a wine to pop the cork
on every day, but for a fairly special meal with
friends who really enjoy wine this will make them
very happy this summer. Los
Siete Misterios Doba Yej
($39) —Way too many Mezcals try to distinguish
themselves from tequila by being smokier, when in
fact by tradition Mezcals are not necessarily
smoky at all. What you want is nuance, and that’s
what you get in Doba Yej from a company that’s
been making Mezcal since 2010. It is
made in a copper
pot still from Espadan agave and they make several
variants. This one has some real fire in it, but
you can still taste the fruit and a slight
smokiness gives it just enough of that flavor
enhancer without tasting like ashes.
❖❖❖
YEAH, WE GOT THAT ❖❖❖ Sponsored by ❖❖❖
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FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
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Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
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"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
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Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
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He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
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