"Church Supper" (1934) by James Barre
Turnbull
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE BRITTANY'S SAINT-MALO By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BÂTARD By John Mariani CAPONE'S GOLD CHAPTER 11 By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR BETTER WINES AT BETTER PRICES By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wednesday June
16 at 11AM EST,I will be
interviewing Steven Samtur, publisher of
Back in the Bronx Newsletter: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
On Monday June 14 I'll be talking about "Absentee Chefs" on Celebrating Act2 with John Coleman and Art Hirsch. ❖❖❖ BRITTANY'S SAINT-MALO HAS A HISTORY OF PRIVATEERS, A CANADIAN CONNECTION AND WONDERFUL FOOD If you have wandered through Québec,
you
will have a sense of Brittany’s Saint-Malo—the
cobblestone streets, simple
granite façades and a great deal of street life
whenever the weather is good.
The city actually has a Canadian connection,
because it was from Saint-Malo
that native son Jacques Cartier (below)
set sail in 1534 and discovered the Saint
Lawrence River and declared the territory “The
Country of the Canadas,” after
the two Iroquoian names for the settlements of
Quebec and Montréal. (The 15th
century Manoir de Limoëlou houses a museum
dedicated to the explorer and his
house is in the Old Town’s Rothéneuf district.) ❖❖❖ NEW YORK
CORNER
BATÂRD 239 West Broadway 212-219-2777 By John Mariani Nine-herb capeletti Those who sniff at the future of French restaurants in New York should look backwards over the last four decades to discover their durability in the face of culinary fad after fad. Aside from numerous bistros, old and new, the very high-end restaurants like Le Bernardin, La Grenouille and Daniel still thrive. Indeed, Daniel Boulud just opened Le Pavillon in a new skyscraper across from Grand Central Terminal and it’s already booked a month in advance. Bâtard, in TriBeCa, has, under three names but one owner, Drew Nieporent (left, at the far right) and his Myriad Restaurant Group, endured for 35 years now as many competitors have closed around it after their moment in the limelight. Bâtard originally opened as Montrachet (there’s always been a big Burgundy slant to the extraordinary 800-label wine list, compiled by Erik Westman), then became Corton, then, seven years ago, Bâtard, each reflecting the cuisine of the chef at the time. Now, there is a new chef, Doug Brixton, and, while never betraying the classic rudiments of French cuisine, he brings his own fresh ideas to a short menu on which it is very difficult to decide what to order when everything sounds so appealing. The very attractive room is pretty much the same, with glowingly lighted pale gold cement walls stenciled with bas-relief vines. If a high decibel level puts you off, ask for a table in the front of the room near the bar, if possible. Long ago the dining room shed its tablecloths, so the chocolate brown banquettes, floors and tabletops darken the cast. Maybe some half-tablecloths or colorful mats might bring up the level of reflected light. There are, though, very welcome candles, and the splendidly delicate chandelier throws a lovely light. A huge spray of highlighted flowers gives the room needed color. Two courses are now $69, three $79, which for this level and quality of food in New York is a bargain, especially when you consider that most steakhouses around town are charging upwards of $70 for a strip steak and no potatoes. There is a 5% surcharge for expenses incurred during the pandemic. On my first visit we began with a beef tartare correctly diced and enhanced with a brown butter emulsion, the tang of pickled red onion and some puffy garlic toast. There was a verdant springtime risotto (left) with rich goat’s cheese, sweet fava beans and saffron-pickled onion whose every texture was perfectly rendered, and all flavors subtly overlapping each other. So, too, fat nine-herb cappeletti (above) were bathed in a beurre blanc and a judicious sprinkling of Parmigiano. (Pastas are available as either an appetizer or main course.) Gravlax of salmon was silky and mildly flavored with a sauce gribiche, salmon roe and caper berries with thinly sliced pumpernickel. “Refined simplicity” is Bâtard’s motto, and it shows impeccably with a roast chicken whose skin was crisp and burnished, wrapped with the meat in a roulade, kept succulent by perfect timing and served with Swiss chard farci and a reduction of the jus that showed every evidence of Brixton’s mastery of technique. On a second visit a light mousse of foie gras came with a lovely ginger crumble, poached rhubarb and unexpected spiced rum ($15 supplement). Halibut, a fish with very mild flavor, was enriched by being poached in butter, with crispy potatoes for texture, aromatic fennel velouté and a refreshing herb salad. Hefty Rohan duck came as two thick slices of the browned glazed breast, rosy pink, with matching beets and yogurt spiced pistachio crumbs and a mustard jus, while veal tenderloin, also as a roulade, of supreme tenderness took on the smokiness of bacon, a sweetbread morsel, English peas and herbs de Provence ($15 supplement). It should be mentioned that “refined simplicity” begins with the finest ingredients, which Bâtard is committed to, not least those from the gourmet food company D’Artagnan, which makes the foie gras and raises the ducks. If you love cheeses, you’ll applaud the selection (three for $21, four for $26, five for $29) at Bâtard, all in ideal condition for the evening. There are four desserts by Julie Elkind, including a trio of ice creams, and the “Bâtard candy bar” of intense chocolate hazelnut fudge, caramel, and feuilletine crunch that should long be a signature item, while the seasonal rhubarb galette of pistachio frangipane, macerated strawberries and roasted fennel ice cream is just perfect for summer. There’s also a luscious coconut curry parfait with caramelized pineapple coconut dacquoise and rice crisp. Drew Nieporent has been one of New York’s most respected food professionals for four decades. He’s had far more highs than lows—he owns TriBeCa Grill and two always packed Nobus in the city—and he’s been testament to endurance on the basis of high quality, not gimmickry. Bâtard, after 36 years, makes the point persuasively. ❖❖❖
CAPONE’S
GOLD
CHAPTER ELEVEN
It was too
late
by the time she left Mother of Mercy to go to
the old Capone house on South
Prairie Street, so Katie went back to her
hotel, went through her notes and
added to them, then took a hot bath and
ordered room service. She
had to stifle an urge to call David,
thinking she’d bundle up everything after she
visited the Capone house, fly
home, then tell him face to face. ```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````` Thanks to Mario Gomes for his photos of the Capone house. © John Mariani, 2015 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
BETTER
WINES AT BETTER PRICES
One result of the
past year
is that wineries worldwide have to sell
their wines at bargain prices, not
least because most restaurants were not
re-stocking during the pandemic and
warehouses must be emptied. I have also seen
more variety than ever before, and
newcomers to the market—some of whom used to
overprice their wines to appear to
be in short supply—just want their foot in
the door of the American wine shops.
Allocation of “scarce” bottlings has pretty
much disappeared, and the Chinese
market for big Bordeaux and Burgundy went
soft as well. Here, then, are some
wines coming in right now that offer
excellent quality at moderate prices.
ARGYLE
VINTAGE BRUT 2017 ($28)—As a
pioneer of sparkling wines in Oregon’s
Willamette Valley,
Argyle has mastered the form and kept
sensible pricing. Of its 2017 Brut (its
31st vintage) winemaker Ned Klosterman
contends, “We are not a large production
winery and our vintage Brut follows the
grower champagne model more than the
big sparkling house approach. It comes
from two of our vineyards, both of which
are sections farms specifically to make
sparkling wine.” It was a year of fine
weather with 70% of the fruit from cooler
vineyards, while the rest was from warmer
ones that give it body. The blend is 55%
Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 15%
Pinot Meunier. Drink it straight through a
seafood-based meal. FATTORIA
MORETTO
PIGNOLETTO ($15.95)—Not as
bubbly as
spumante, this frizzante
wine from
Emilia-Romagna (where the grape is called
Rèbola) is a delightful surprise,
with good citrus and lemony fruit, and at
12% alcohol very easy to quaff at
lunchtime. Very good, too, with a mess of
fried seafood or light cheeses. NICOLAS CATENA
ZAPATA 2016 ($99)—True, $99
is not cheap, but this wine often sells
for much more
and
it is one of the outstanding red wines of
Argentina, intense and dark in
color, and easily compares with European
reds twice its price. A couple more
years will probably make it even better,
but the tannins have been tamed in
this blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31%
Malbec and 8% Cabernet Franc. Zapata
is among the old guard of Mendoza and they
have worked diligently to improve
their vineyards decade after decade. It’s
a great roast beef or barbecued ribs
wine. KOEPKE COLHEITA
2003 ($40)—Port has always been the
best priced wine in the market. It is
special yet very available, from a light
Ruby as a mixer to a Vintage you save
for anniversaries. Colheita on the label
means it is not truly a vintage but
called a “wine with a date of the
harvest,” that is, a grade of port that
has
been aged a minimum of seven years in cask
before bottling, then labeled with
its vintage date. They differ from true
vintage port in that they lose
sediment, so they are somewhat lighter,
and at this price, much easier to drink
on a regular basis for a reasonable
facsimile. With all kinds of cheeses,
nuts,
dense cakes, it is terrific. TASSINAIA
CASTELLO DEL
TERRICO 2017 ($33)—You can be
forgiven for
mistaking this for a very expensive Tuscan
Cabernet with a more illustrious
name, and it is another of those admirable
IGT wines that put to shame so many
DOCG Chianti Classicos that don’t deserve
the appellation. A percentage of
Merlot gives it a velvety middle, and the
Cabernet is mellowing out. A touch of
Syrah gives it spice. CHÂTEAU DE LA
CHAIZE
BROUILLY 2017
($23)—Beaujolais is too often
regarded as watery grape juice when they
come out as “Nouveau” wines of the
harvest, but aged Beaujolais are marvelous
wines with a lot more body after aging
than some would think. This Brouilly,
from southern Burgundy, is perfect to
drink right now, and the Château has had
a proud family reputation for many
centuries. Excellent choice with pork or
veal. CHÂTEAU CAMBON
LA PELOUSE
2015 ($24)—Cru bourgeois Haut-Médoc
Bordeaux are what the French drink with
regularity when they can’t afford to
buy other wines of the illustrious
vineyards of the Médoc and Pomerol. This
is
a delicious wine, fruit forward with a
nice degree of acid, and should be drunk
with meats and would be delicious with egg
dishes with truffles. The blend is
about 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. TUSSOCK JUMPER
GRENACHE
2020 ($15)—Despite a name that sounds
anything but French, this is a lovely rosé
from somewhere in France. A tussock
is a knobby kind of grass found around the
world, and the company that produces
this wine is actually a conglomerate of
wine producers and distributors who
know how to market their wines in large
quantities. This is a kind of wine that
you don’t pay much attention to except for
its highly refreshing character and
its pleasant sweetness that makes it as
good an apéritif as a mixer or
spritzer. ❖❖❖
ANNALS
OF INVESTIGATIVE JOURNALISM
Eater.com
(6/7/21) publishes "Where to Eat at Cleveland
Hopkins International Airport" (even if
they're closed). The Pub
Sponsored by ❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
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savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
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Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
well as the author of the Eating Las
Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
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