MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  August 1,   2021                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

ARCHIVE



Joseph Wiseman and Sean Connery in "Dr. No" (1962)

Jo  
     

❖❖❖

IN THIS ISSUE
TRAPANI, SICILY
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
YUCO

By John Mariani

CAPONE'S GOLD
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

SO YOU WANT TO RUN A WINE TASTING
By John Mariani




❖❖❖


On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. August 4 at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing David Mikics, author of Slow Reading in a Hurried Age. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.











❖❖❖




TRAPANI, SICILY


By John Mariani




Palazzo Cavaretta
 

       By virtue of bright, often harsh sunlight, the cities of Sicily, like Trapani, enjoy a natural bleaching that gives them a soft, light-reflecting freshness no matter how old they are. When the moon is full the buildings glow. Before World War II, much was in decrepit shape, and the city was heavily bombed. So say what you want about the onslaught of tourism, but without it much of Europe would lack the resources to restore their cities to a luster they had not had for centuries.
      Trapani, on Sicily’s west coast, is now a beautiful small city of 70,000 that retains its fishing heritage as a significant Mediterranean port as well as offering a blend of Greek, Moorish and Spanish baroque architecture that makes wandering its streets a passage back and forth in history. Trapani was originally named Drepana, Greek for “sickle,” because of its harbor’s shape, and rich in Greek myth. The city played a major, contentious role in the ancient world, fought over by Carthage and Rome, which came to rule it after the 241 BC Battle of the Aegates in the First Punic War. The Roman god Saturn still stands in the city center’s piazza. Later it came under the control of the Kingdom of Naples. 
     
Tuna fishing and the vast nearby salt flats helped the economy rebound after World War II, and today it is a very popular destination for Europeans who can also easily hop a ferry from its docks to the nearby Egadi Islands. Along the quay in the morning or at twilight, in view of Mount Erice, you walk beneath pastel skies striped with shifting clouds.  This is the south, so it is hot in summer, but rarely does it get above 85 degrees, and in the fall it is delightfully in the mid-70’s.
      This is also Italy, so Trapani has the usual oversupply of churches, each with its own style, dating from the 14th century Sant’Agostino to the Basilica of Maria Santissima Annunziata, rebuilt in the 18th century. Trapani entertained few of Europe’s greatest artists, though the well-regarded regional museum has paintings by Titian, Ribera and Giacomo Balla. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo (above), with its fine dome,  built in1421 and restored in the 18th century, has an “Annunciation” painting attributed to Anthony van Dyck, though how it got there no one knows. There is a modern Optical Illusions Museum (above) that is a good deal of fun, particularly among young visitors.
      The Palazzo Cavaretta (now the Senate) was built in the 17th century with a stunning baroque façade by Simone Pisano and Andrea Palma. In the following century two large clocks were added, providing Trapani with the pride of modernity.
       Good hotels are available at modest prices (you can easily find charming rooms for $100 or less), and outside of town, surrounded by the Firriato vineyards, the luxurious Baglio Sorìa Resort & Wine Hotel (where rooms start around $150 and average about $250) is modern, environmentally friendly, with swimming pool, solarium, a first-rate restaurant and wine tastings.
       I stayed in Trapani’s old town at the Albergo San Michele (Via San Michele 16) with 21 well-furnished rooms within an ancient building (below) on a very quiet narrow street (rooms begin at $90, with breakfast). Its interior of carved-out staircases and use of glass is stunning, the air-conditioned rooms very comfortable, and you are within a few minutes’ walk to the harbor.
      Seafood, obviously, dominates the restaurants of Trapani, and the loveliest is Serisso 47 (Via Serisso 47), whose chef-owner Gaetano Basiricò serves a classico-moderno menu of unstinting freshness. The name of the restaurant—“smile”— derives, ironically, from a sad story of an old fisherman whose wife ran off with an Moorish Arab.
      The interior (right) is gaily lit and airy, with arched ceilings crisscrossed by vines hung with flowers and pepper-green lights. The menu, which is not entirely seafood, is inventive, with a focus on the prime ingredients. We began with a robust melding of the flavors of tuna bottarga roe and celery puree, then a creamy torta of ricotta. Pasta, curiously, was with a meat sauce, and roast lamb with crisp potatoes was the main course, ending with traditional, not-too-sweet cassata. In addition there is simply prepared fish of the day, Sicilian cùscus, and spaghetti alla norma with eggplant and tomato. Appetizers run about $17, pastas $15-$25, main courses $17-$20. The wine list is one of the best in town.
     Family-owned trattorias abound in Trapani and Taverna Caupona (Via San Francesco D’Assisi) is one of the most charming, small and rustic, and proudly old-fashioned. There we had an array of splendid, full-flavored local dishes made with gusto by Chef Rosa, with her husband Rino in the dining room, including crisply fried calamari, shrimp and sardines; little balls of seafood fried like arancini; busiate pasta with fried tuna with the true taste of the sea in every bite; spaghetti with clams, another with bottarga; sarago (bream) with a salmoriglio of oil, lemon and pepper, preo (dentice) simply grilled and their version of cùscus (left). And entire meal will cost about $35-$45.
      Trapani, if not opulent, is testimony to how Sicily has evolved from its images of depressing poverty and crime. Those still exist, but it is still one of the most beautiful places in the world that gets better and better every year.

     

 

 


❖❖❖



NEW YORK CORNER



YUCO

33 West Eighth Street
646-707--409


By John Mariani


     While the name of Yuco refers to the Yucatán, the highly creative cuisine of chef Christian Ortiz (himself from the Dominican Republic) might be better termed Meso-America, since so many influences are incorporated into the food. You don’t find much Berkshire pork belly or wagyu beef in Mexico, and lobster is of the California spiny species not that of the North Atlantic. So you can cast away any sense that Yuco is a traditional Mexican restaurant and just enjoy all the wonderful ideas Ortiz has come up with at this handsome, two-room restaurant with a bar up front for 32 guests and a dining room for 30.
      Yuco, opened a month ago in the West Village, is, then, a serious departure from outmoded notions of Mexican food, not unlike the casual Amigo Tacos by Nai, reviewed here last week. Yuco, however, is further upscale than any restaurant of its kind in New York and a far more sophisticated place than brutally noisy Cosme. The gleaming bar up front leads to a beautifully set room with pale gray brick walls set with folkloric photos that include one of stacks of Panama hats, and the lighting falls softly on good, thick linens and very comfortable banquettes, with an open kitchen to the rear. The stemware (in several shapes) is exquisitely thin, and the water glasses contain little cactus figures. The attractive waitstaff is dressed in black suits. Clearly, this is not a place to stop in for take-out tamales.
      Service is attentive and cordial but all dishes are explained at wearying length. By the way, there is no bread on the table (and most assuredly no tortilla chips).
      Yuco is co-owned by Trent Walker, who has apparently made a few bucks in the tech industry, and Ortiz (above), and they are obviously not aiming for volume, content instead to serve a discerning number of guests each night who may go with the tasting menus (once fully implemented) or dine à la carte. Walker is a serious wine collector and offers some from his own cellar from wines bought at auction. (More on the list later).
      The food is very pretty, with a few molecular cuisine notes, but not enough to harm it. You are told from the start that portions are quite small, even though appetizers run $21 to $29, and a second course of what is listed as a single “pan-seared diver scallop” is $38. Still, a wagyu ribeye is only $48. If you order a day in advance for parties of six to eight, you can try the 18-hour smoked pork pibil ($275).
      Elegance is part of every aspect at Yuco, the dishes visually enticing. Tiny amuses of a shrimp taco and a refined version of rice and beans began the meal, then we followed with crispy, tender octopus with a chipotle cream and colorful nasturtium ($28); velvety ceviche of kampachi came with more octopus, tender cucumber, sweet apricot and a squeeze of citrus ($25); as lovely as it was delicious, squash blossoms delicately fried in a tempura batter with sweet plantains and prickly pear was laced with a walnut cream sauce ($27). And the succulent pork belly al pastor (“shepherd style”) came with smoked sunflower sprouts and summery butterfly sorrel ($29). One of the best dishes of all was elote soup, which in Mexico is a street dish of grilled corn with cotija white cheese, lime and corn ash, here turned into a beautiful, complex soup ($27).    
      
Of the main courses, the scallop (singular) actually contained two on the dish, with cassava croquette, tangy pickle tomatillo and a lovely sweet coconut emulsion ($28).  A chicken tamale with a honey nut squash purée and chili velouté ($32) was fine, if nothing extraordinary, and lobster and smoked rajas chile poblano strips and sweet corn ($42) was very good but I craved more lobster than was provided. Mexican cooks pride themselves on their rich mole sauces and Yuco’s braised oxtail has a sauce to match the best in haute cuisine.
     Desserts are every bit as imaginative as what precedes them:
Chocolate champurrado  with masa, cajeta and horchata ice cream; “Corn Textures” of an aguachile sorbet, corn custard, corn crumble, carbon powder; pineapple frozen mousse with yerba buena, sunflower crumble and sunflower powder; and pompona vanilla custard with lime and chiles.
     Yuco’s wine list is something of a conundrum in that its breadth and depth are highly impressive and, overall, its pricing is below many competitors’, sometimes by half.  But $150 for a glass of Vega Sicilia 2015 is a shocker, when you can buy the whole bottle for the same price at a wine shop. More important, the list has but a handful of bottles under $100, while wines costing $200 and up fill page after page. Fortunately, sommelier Derrick Engles is well aware of the imbalance and said he is working on adding more modestly priced wines. The bar stocks 100 agave-based spirits.
      Yuco has made a very impressive debut, and with some tweaking of portion size and wine list prices, it is certainly among New York’s most enticing new fine dining experiences.

 

Open for dinner Tues.-Sun.

 

 

 


❖❖❖


CAPONE’S GOLD


By John Mariani

To read all chapters of Capone's Gold beginning April 4, 2021 go to the archive
 
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN


      Katie and David arrived back in New York late that night, and the next day was Sunday.
    
“Let’s take a day off,” said David.
      “Good idea,” said Katie. “I’m going to sleep in, go to a late Mass at Mount Carmel (left), go visit my parents, and just chill out for the rest of the day. So see you Monday? My place or yours?”
      “I’ll come down to the Bronx. I guess you reminded me how much I miss the old borough. See you at ten?”
      “Sounds good.”
     While Katie was spending a leisurely Sunday, David was again attacking the hogweed growing in his backyard, then he watched the first game of the NFL season, Giants versus Tampa Bay.  But his mind wasn’t on the game, and after a couple of glasses of wine, he turned off the TV and laid down on his sofa, closed his eyes, and began thinking of all he’d seen and learned over the past week.
      Since hearing about them, he’d been thinking about Capone’s speedboats on Little Palm and how Spickler had said he’d sail them to Bimini and Cuba. David couldn’t get it out of his mind that Capone simply owned them as pleasure boats, even if his post-prison sailing trips had nothing to do with picking up and bringing back booze. But he again reminded himself such boats might not have been able to ship gold ingots around the Caribbean with impunity back in 1935, even while Capone was in jail.
       He decided to make a call to Spickler in the morning.
       He was looking forward to seeing Katie and slept soundly through the night.  At nine he called Spickler and asked if he had any idea what kind of boats Capone owned.
         “As far as I know he had one of them built especially for him a year or so after he moved in,” said the caretaker. “There’s a photo of it that was in the local newspapers and it was a beautiful boat, very sleek, polished wood, brass fittings. I believe it was called the Acania, then someone changed it to the Flying Cloud.”
         “And the other?”
         “I’ve never seen a picture of it, but I remember hearing it was larger and might have been a converted rumrunner. At least that’s what I heard.”
         “Thanks, Mr. Spickler,” said David, “you’ve been very helpful.” And indeed he had. David now had another way of looking at transport of the gold, and a rumrunner might have been the key.  David got in his car, crossed the Tappan Zee Bridge and was at Katie’s in under an hour.

 

                                                                            *                         *                         *                     

      The rumrunning connection made sense, for Bimini and the Bahamas were among the first islands from which Caribbean rum was illegally and secretly transported by boat, even before Prohibition began. When it did begin, estimates of contraband onboard the rumrunner boats went as high as $200,000 per shipment, often to Miami but later up and down the East Coast.
    Rumrunners also plied the waterways between Canada and the U.S. all the way to Newfoundland, bound for Boston and New York; others sailed from British Columbia down the West Coast, while still others made fortunes on runs from Mexico and the Caribbean to Galveston, Texas, and New Orleans.
      The most notorious and creative of the rumrunners was William S. McCoy (left), whose activities preceded the onset of Prohibition by twenty years. Cheap booze made for easy profits even when it was legal, and McCoy became a master of evasion until the Coast Guard began cracking down when America went dry. To fend them off, McCoy even had an old Gloucester schooner—christened the Arethusa (above), renamed the Tomoka—-equipped with a concealed machine gun, which could also be used to scare off competing rum runners.
      Realizing he couldn’t keep having his boats seized, he devised plans for his large transports to meet smaller boats just outside the three-mile limit of U.S. jurisdiction.  Once inside the perimeter, the smaller, faster boats could easily outrun the larger, slower Coast Guard craft, which rarely topped twelve knots.  In fact, some of the era’s rumrunners were luxury yachts refitted with powerful aircraft engines made by American companies like Wright, Curtiss and Packard.
      But what really gave McCoy his reputation was his delivery of the highest quality spirits and wines at a time when scores of other rumrunners were diluting theirs with water or cheap rotgut. Bimini and the Bahamas were also British ports where far more profitable Scotch, gin, and French Champagne could be bought legally.  McCoy promised and always delivered the best sealed and stamped bottles of liquor, which earned him the nickname the “Real McCoy.”  
     
One of his best customers was Al Capone.
      But on November 15, 1923, McCoy’s luck ran out. The Coast Guard cutter Seneca (left) intercepted the Tomoka just inside U.S. waters.  The Tomoka fired its machine gun but, when the Seneca returned fire with its cannon, McCoy surrendered, his boat confiscated.  Afterwards Congress extended the sea limit to twelve miles.
      At first confiscated boats were sold at auction, but the buyers invariably turned out to be rum runners, so that eventually the U.S. Navy just began sinking the boats.
      David Greco had a fair handle on this history, for even in the decades after Prohibition ended, illegal smuggling of booze was, if not rampant, still profitable, and the New York gangs he’d investigated had their hands in that trade well into the 1980s.
     He also knew that Capone had participated in rumrunning, but now David was intrigued by the boats Capone himself owned in Florida after he went to and got out of prison.

 

 


©
John Mariani, 2015


❖❖❖




NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

         SO YOU WANT TO RUN
A WINE TASTING

       By John Mariani

 
   
I once knew a wine writer—always with a buzz on—who exulted that he’d tasted his way through 120 wines at an international exposition.  Now, my job as a wine writer has its joys, but tasting my way through 120 wines, or 80 wines—which is about par for a judge at a wine competition—is not one of them. 
         Such a slog is not only hard work but palate fatigue sets in early, so that the 46th wine you taste is never going to have quite the luster of the third, and by number 75 you are in agony and in need of a shower.   Still, the idea of holding your own wine tasting at home, or in a restaurant, can be one of the most convivial of pleasures, as long as you go about it the right way, starting with whom you invite.
         Basically, there are three kinds of people who drink wine: those who kind of like it, those who truly love it, and those who regard it as a study in one-upmanship.  Only the second type is any fun at a wine tasting, especially if you’re going to be serving some expensive wines that the first group will shrug at and the third will sniff and go into discourses about the wines’ Ph level and the vineyards’ trellising techniques.  Once you’ve chosen your jolly group (please skip the black tie request!), there are certain guidelines that make such tastings a great deal of fun.

                 Never serve more than six wines.  Less is hardly worth the effort and more becomes a bore.

                 Will it be a blind tasting?  If so, cover the bottles with a paper bag to hide the labels, making sure the shape of the bottle is not evident. (Pinot noirs, Chardonnays and rieslings always come in distinctively shaped bottles.) Number them and keep the list out of sight.

                 If it’s not a blind tasting, rather than have a random selection of wines, choose one region, say Tuscany, or a single estate, say, Jordan cabernet. If the former, a horizontal tasting of a single vintage will give interesting insight into the differences of wines from the same region; if the latter, have a vertical tasting, that is, from different vintages of the same wine.

                 Use standard wineglasses for all the wines and pour only about an ounce or so to begin with. Later your guests can enjoy whatever they like most.

                 Have plain water available to help clear the palate between wines.

                 Crackers or bread is traditionally made available, also to clear the palate, chosen because they are bland and do not interfere with the wine flavors. But I believe it is much better to serve crackers like Saltines or bread like focaccia (left) whose salt works as salt always does—to perk up flavors. I’ve also found that a little fat, along with the salt, brings out much more depth in wines you taste, so put a sheer amount of salted butter, or olive oil, on the bread. It works wonders.

                 If you are serving the wines with dinner—and I heartily recommend you do so—keep the food very, very simple, like mild cheese, chicken broth, a steak, or, if you’re tasting white wines, fillet of fish. 

                 You might have guests taste all the wines prior to dinner—remember, you’re only sampling six—then match them with dinner. For the real point of tasting wines is that they go best with food, and with few exceptions, aren’t worth much without food, not even a glass of Champagne without at least a canape.

                 During the discussion, try to keep the conversation lively (remember, you didn't invite the wine snobs to lecture anyone), and it’s a capital idea to have a few choice observations from great writers handy for toasts like these:

-“No nation is drunken where wine is cheap.”—Thomas Jefferson.

--“Let us have wine and women, mirth and laughter,/ Sermons and soda-water the day after.”—Lord Byron.

--“Wine, madam, is God’s next best gift to man.”—Ambrose Bierce.

--“It’s a naïve domestic Burgundy without any breeding, but I believe you’ll be amused by its presumption.”—James Thurber.

--“It was a very Corsican wine and you could dilute it by half with water and still receive its message.”—Ernest Hemingway.

                Print out the names of all the wines for guests to take home.

                 Finish every drop of every wine you open.

     

 




❖❖❖



 



WON BY DEFAULT

“Why Cincinnati Is the World Capital of Mock Turtle Soup.”—Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati.com 7/21















❖❖❖


Sponsored by






❖❖❖


 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




❖❖❖







The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






❖❖❖

FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html



© copyright John Mariani 2021