MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
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THIS WEEK CHRISTIE'S PARIS WILL AUCTION MEMENTOS OF BARTENDER COLIN FIELD FROM THE HEMINGWAY BAR AT THE RITZ By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BENJAMIN'S STEAKHOUSE By John Mariani THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES CHAPTER NINE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR IS PINOT NOIR A FINICKY GRAPE OR JUST OPEN TO STYLIZATION? By John Mariani ❖❖❖
CHRISTIE'S PARIS WILL AUCTION MEMENTOS OF BARTENDER COLIN FIELD FROM THE HEMINGWAY BAR AT THE RITZ By John Mariani
From February 29 to
March 13 Christie’s Paris is showing the
personal collection of Colin Peter Field,
the former barman of the renowned Bar
Hemingway at the Ritz Paris. Auction
estimates range from €100 to €1,200. Did
you acquire all the auction objects yourself
, or were they bought by The Ritz for the
bar? The objects in the
Hemingway Bar were all bought or acquired by So, you own them all. Did you contact Christie’s or vice-versa? Christie’s have
known about the objects for quite some time.
They know me and visited the bar on several
occasions to see me and the objects. The
original Le Petit Bar opened in 1923. It was a
small room without a bar counter situated
opposite the main bar, which did not serve
ladies. Bertin, the bartender, started at Le
Petit in 1926 when a counter was installed.
Hemingway came to the Ritz around 1926 first
with Scott Fitzgerald. They were there to see
an old friend of Fitzgerald, the Count Von
Blixen. Hemingway knew him and his wife Karen
from a New York-to-France crossing on the Leopoldina
and wanted to say hello. He’d also come to
the bar to read the racing turf newspapers on
the tables, which are still in the bar. He
would take the bartenders bets and then go to
Vincennes to place them. He first came to the
Le Petit Bar and got to know Bertin, whom I
spent many hours with personally. Were you the
Hemingway Bar’s first bartender? No. I was going to
write another book about Frank Meier, the
first head bartender. But the more I knew
about his real life, the more I thought that
it was better kept secret. Hemingway said
'It’s easy to write a book. You just sit in
front of a typewriter and ... BLEED.” I
will let someone else do the bleeding. You never met Ernest but you have spoken with others of the Hemingway family? I enjoyed spending
time with [son] Jack Hemingway from 1994 to
his demise in December 2000, if my memory is
correct. We would talk and talk about shooting
and hunting, and I would try to invite him to
my shooting club just outside of Paris. Jack
didn't have a French hunting license, so the
hunt was out of the question. But he was
always so, so busy. An amazing amount of
people would come to the bar to tell me about
Hem. Perhaps they knew him personally.
Sometimes it could be Jack's granddaughter or
fishing acquaintances; once it was [son]
Gregory Hemingway’s wife. She was very
charming and we talked frankly, no holds
barred, about Gregory. I could go on forever. Why did model
Kate Moss give you two typewriters? None of the objects
was owned by Hemingway. Although there is a
mixing glass, owned by Bertin at the time,
which was used to make Martinis for Hemingway.
Bertin gave it to me in 1995. I once asked
Jack if he had anything from his Dad, even a
sock. He replied that he had absolutely
nothing. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER BENJAMIN'S
STEAKHOUSE
610 Hartsdale Road
White Plains,
NY 914-428-6868
Sliced porterhouse with creamed spinach
Open for dinner nightly;
for lunch Sat. & Sun.
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THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani CHAPTER EIGHT
Joseph returned
to his parents’ home soon afterwards, leaving
Katie to ponder all she’d heard. Her thoughts
were very scattered, for while she was used to
locking onto a story idea on the basis of
received evidence, then to bore into heavy
research on the subject, the idea of not even
knowing where to begin on a story that seemed to
be a vast conspiracy with global reach was mind
boggling.
“Exactly. And I heard that a lot of the
time those priests would start all over again
molesting kids. At worst, the Church kicked them
out of the priesthood. None of them were ever
handed over to the courts to indict. At least I
never heard of any. I can check with some of my
old colleagues, but I doubt they’d come up with
much.” © John Mariani, 2018 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
IS PINOT NOIR A FINICKY GRAPE OR JUST OPEN TO STYLIZATION? By John Mariani The knee-jerk description by many wine
connoisseurs and grape growers is that it is a
“finicky” varietal, more delicate than Cabernet
Sauvignon or Syrah, and that it needs nurturing even
in those regions like Burgundy and Champagne where
it’s been a principal grape for centuries. There,
the adjectives “complex,” refined” and “elegant” are
much bandied about. The Oxford
Companion to Wine contends, “If Cabernet
produces wines to appeal to the head, Pinots charms
on the side of the more sensual and more
transparent.” Whatever. Alma Rosa Winery. Alma Rosa, founded Richard
Sanford and since 2014 owned by Bob and Barbar
Zorich, has released three Pinots from the ideal
vintage 2021 at different prices: Alma Rosa La Encantada
Pinot Noir ( $82). Made from
24-year-old vines at La Encantada Vineyard near the
Pacific Ocean, aged for 11 months in 40% new French
oak, it is bottled unfined and unfiltered, which gives
it a robust body with acidity to match. El Jabali Pinot ($90). Originally planted in
1983 and replanted in 2019, these older vines have a
good track record and maturity, also aged for 11
months in 45% new French oak before being bottled
unfined and unfiltered. The levels of spice and
pleasing tannins make this an outstanding Pinot. Rancho La Viña ($82). The
soil composition of the vineyards southwest of the Sta Rita
Hills corridor allows winemaker Samra Morris to create
a bolder, though not massive, edge to the wine and darker color. Dobbes Family Estate
Dobbes Grand Assemblage Pinot Noir 2021 ($35). More than once I’ve
claimed that Oregon’s Willamette Valley, overall,
makes the best New World Pinots, and Dobbes is a
leader with its flagship wine by Derek Einberger,
using carefully culled fruit from almost every
vineyard to provide nuance and balance. Says
Einberger, “This bottle serves as a snapshot of
vintage and a great introduction to Dobbes wines.” It
has a slight mint note and lovely bouquet. Drink it
with roast lamb or
grilled pork ribs. VOON Sta Rita Hills Pinot
Noir 2021 ($68). Located in the cooler
terroir of the Sta Rita Hills, Voon was founded during
the pandemic by Evan Anderson as a small-production
winery. Winemaker Jessica Gasca believes in low
intervention in making Pinot with intensified flavors
in the grape. So, you get a fruit-driven wine with a
silky texture, ready to drink now. There is also a
2022 available at $68. (By the way, the name “Sta Rita
Hills” is used due to a protest by a Chilean winemaker
in that country’s Santa Rita region.) Archery Summit Dundee
Hills 2022 ($50). As evident in this
article, many New World Pinots are released quite
young, and aging prospects haven’t a great deal of
history behind them. This Willamette Valley example
with grapes from Eola-Amity Hills and Marsh Vineyard
is of medium body, 14% alcohol, and quite pleasant to
drink right now for its fresh fruit flavors and
lighter tannins, making it a good wine to go with
Pacific Northwest salmon on the grill. Small Vines Wines Shining
S 2021 (These wines are on
allocation from the winery). A West Sonoma Coast entry
is from the Shining S vineyard planted in 2014 in
sandy loam soil, using three clones including French
Pommard. It stays on the skins for 23 days to acquire
concentration and color, then 15 months in barrel on
the lees, bottled in February 2023. The fact that it’s
13.1% alcohol shows just how deliciously nuanced Pinot
can be when careful aging is applied in an attempt to
emulate Burgundies like Pommard. Imagery 2020 ($20). That price is SRP, and you can find this splendid, medium-bodied Pinot for a lot less at stores or on line. It is unusual in that 5% Petit Verdot is added for color and body. There’s a light touch of French oak among the spice notes. Easy drinking for a wide array of appetizers and main courses. Yering Station 2020 ($40). This Australian estate dates back
to vineyards planted in Victoria by the Scottish-born Ryrie brothers
in 1838, when the land was called “Yering” by the
First Nations People. Since 1996 it has been owned
by Darren Rathbone, also the winemaker. In the
blending process all wine parcels are “randomized
and served blind to determine their final home.”
Typical of Australian Pinots, Yering’s are very
full-bodied, tannic and have a long finish with
plenty of dark fruit flavors. Other,
older vintages are available as well. ❖❖❖ QUESTIONS THAT
KEEP US UP AT NIGHT "Why Do All Chefs Cross Their Arms in Photos? A Completely Serious investigation of the most popular pose on restaurant websites, TV cooking show, and photo ops." By Tiffany Leigh, Eater.com (11/23/23).❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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