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VIRTUAL GOURMET JULY 5, 2026
NEWSLETTER ARCHIVE ![]() HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY
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WHAT IS AMERICAN FOOD? By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BRASSERIE COGNAC AMÉRICAIN By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT By John Mariani ❖❖❖
WHAT IS AMERICAN FOOD? BY John Mariani ![]()
Cynics
have always derided American food as
simplistic, unhealthy, adulterated and
favoring quantity over quantity. And for a
while in the post-World War II period that
seemed to be the case as the food industry
made cheap food available to everyone in
abundance, even if frozen or boxed. It is no wonder, then,
that American food deserved the hard knocks it
once took before a revolution took place in
the 1970s that stressed freshness, local
ingredients, ethnic variety and a turning away
from junk food, which at first meant More disturbing was the
fact that small, family-owned restaurants,
where such food was traditionally made
according to old recipes, were being nudged
aside in favor of the fast-food eateries, so
that even American institutions like the diner
and the cafeteria, where excellent American
fare could be had, found it difficult if not
impossible to compete with the fast-food
places’ prices and “fun atmosphere.” The reaction to all
this was the development of a culinary elitism
that once again pronounced the excellence of
French, Italian, and Oriental cuisines and the
horrid state of American gastronomy. Even a
charming Boston woman named Julia Child
enjoyed a long run on public television
showing Americans how to cook, not turkey with
stuffing, clam chowders, or scrod, but rôti de
porc poêle, canard a l’orange, and choux de
Bruxelles. Credit must be given to such
a television program and to Mrs. Child for
relieving the inferiority complex American
cooks had about French food and complex
cooking processes in general. Her tone was
typically Yankee and refreshingly reassuring,
and she taught a generation how to care about
excellent ingredients and attention to detail.
And in her TV series in the 1980s, Child did
feature American cooking and championed
California wines.
At the same time, food
magazines like Gourmet,
Cuisine, Food & Wine, and others
began devoting more space to American cookery,
and even the Culinary Institute of America, a
cooking school in Hyde Park, New York, long
devoted to Continental cuisine, opened a
separate course of study on American food. The publication in 1970
of Time-Life’s beautifully produced Foods of
the World included seven volumes on
regional American cookery (right),
which gave the food a legitimacy of the kind
afforded French, Italian, and Japanese
cuisines. Well written, gorgeously
illustrated, and full of well-tested, explicit
recipes, these volumes on New England, Creole
and Acadian, Northwest, Eastern Heartland,
Southern Style, Great West, and Melting Pot
regional cooking showed just how diverse this
nation’s cookery is. They revealed the wealth
of tradition and history behind each dish and
a people’s pride in every preparation. Thousands of other
authoritative regional cookbooks have appeared
since then, ranging from specific books on a
single item like chili or cheesecake to thick
volumes of recipes compiled by women’s
organizations throughout the United States.
Several excellent histories of American food
and drink have appeared within the last
decade, along with delightful compendiums of
lore and anecdotes on everything from candy
bars and ice cream to North American fish.
American wines, which in the 1970s became
internationally respected, have been boosted
by wine writers and recorded in narratives and
encyclopedias with the same care and devotion
to accuracy given the vineyards of Bordeaux
and Burgundy. Things seem to be on the right
track again.
It is worth noting that
when the foreign soccer players came to the
U.S. for FIFA, they loved our food, not only
because they found it tasty and new but
because it was so American. What is American food? It
is all of this. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER BRASSERIE COGNAC
AMÉRICAIN 212-470-5889 By John Mariani ![]() The announcement that master chef
Michael Lomonaco (below), formerly of
Porter House, was appointed as chef and
partner for a new Brasserie Cognac set across
from the New York Public Library was very good
news. The chain of four restaurants under that
name,
Open only a month when I visited, the
service staff was in full swing, from the
charming hostesses who greet you to manager
Bruce
Crystal’s smooth ministrations and the
waiters who keep the pace going.
The wine list is not huge
but more than serviceable for brasserie cuisine.
The thick wineglasses are not. You’ll begin with good
bread and butter, but the cheese-rich gougeres
were a hit as much for four adults as for a
young child who gobbled his up with obvious
relish. The Alsatian onion tart was made with
goat’s cheese and bacon, and it’s always good to
find silky leeks au vinaigrette
gribiche with warm shallots in summer. There’s a
big roast marrow bone, and the sauteed duck foie
gras was particularly luscious via its sour
cherry compote and brioche toast. Unexpected but
delicious was an ahi tuna bowl of sushi rice,
avocado, pineapple, edamame, relish and
cucumber. Steak frites was made
with the butcher’s hanger cut with maître d
butter and a mess of perfect French fries. I’ve
seen a return of the classic old canard à
l’orange on French menus, and here the
magret breast, cooked rare, came with a sauce
deeply reduced and spiked with Grand Marnier,
accompanied by butter-rich potato puree.
For seafood there is a
finely grilled branzino à la Provençale with a
tangy ratatouille. A good brasserie’s jolly
atmosphere demands ordering desserts, and
Brasserie Cognac is delivering with practiced
attention to getting the crust of the crème
brûleé perfect (below); the generous
portion of chocolate laced profiteroles; This
version of Brasserie Cognac has immediately
become the company’s flagship, and at a time
when restaurateurs are said to be cautious about
capital investment, Serafina has gone all out
and given the city a spectacular venue fittingly
across from the magnificent Library. The
neighborhood seems to be a new nexus, with the
Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant around
the corner, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse under the
highway bridge, the haute cuisine Gabriel
Kreuther down the block and Daniel Boulud’s Le
Pavillon on Vanderbilt Avenue. It’s simple
logic: New York can never have enough great
restaurants. Open daily four lunch
and dinner. Brunch Sat. &
Sun. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
Katie was feeling wholly
frustrated by the lack of progress on what she
felt sure was a story with a murder in it
attached to the horrors of the Epstein
perfidies. Now, with Epstein blithely back at
the supposed scene of the crime, she wracked
her brain as to how to penetrate the shield
Epstein had erected around him with the help
of highly placed and very powerful men, not
just in Palm Beach and the rest of the United
States
❖❖❖ ![]() WHY THERE'LL ALWAYS BE AN ENGLAND "I’m not saying that Dante,
at Claridge’s in Mayfair, is the ultimate American
restaurant, but ooh, do you feel you are entering a
seductive, soothing, expensive, smoothly grinning
money machine as you are ushered through the foyer
and into the bowels of the hotel’s clean new
restaurant. . . . It’s
certainly a lot of money for martinis that aren’t
real, to sit at tables that are too big, in a
place that’s clattery in a way the Wolseley never
is, among Americans whom the hotel only considers
desirable because at least they aren’t Middle
Easterners."––Camilla Long, "Dante," London
Times (6/21/26). ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
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