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JULY 5, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

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HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY


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WHAT IS AMERICAN FOOD?
By John Mariani

 


NEW YORK CORNER
BRASSERIE COGNAC AMÉRICAIN

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY-EIGHT

By John Mariani


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WHAT IS AMERICAN FOOD?
BY John Mariani





Cynics have always derided American food as simplistic, unhealthy, adulterated and favoring quantity over quantity. And for a while in the post-World War II period that seemed to be the case as the food industry made cheap food available to everyone in abundance, even if frozen or boxed. Yet for all the criticism  the next phase of frozen, instant, and packaged foods was even worse—“gourmet dishes,” such as fettuccine Alfredo, asparagus with hollandaise sauce, and “Oriental” vegetables. The final blow to American taste came with the plethora of diet foods, which were either traditional processed foods made with less sugar, oil, or syrup or smaller portions of the same old stuff. In recent years, nutritional terrorists have tried to sting Americans into believing that most of what they consume on an everyday basis is going to kill them—sooner or later.

It is no wonder, then, that American food deserved the hard knocks it once took before a revolution took place in the 1970s that stressed freshness, local ingredients, ethnic variety and a turning away from junk food,  which at first meant snacks, candies, and other less than nutritious items but came to encompass “fast foods” sold at roadside stands usually run by nationwide chains. Several such operations have specialized in some of the more obvious items in the American kitchen—hamburgers, hot dogs, fried chicken, french-fried potatoes, apple pie, and ice cream—serving them lickety-split from assembly lines of griddles and deep fryers at the hands of patently chummy young people in standardized uniforms. Cheap, casual, and geared for ingestion of product rather than the pleasure of dining, these places reduced the flavor of such foods to the point where Henry Miller’s comment about drowning the original taste with sweet-and-sour condiments began to make sense.

More disturbing was the fact that small, family-owned restaurants, where such food was traditionally made according to old recipes, were being nudged aside in favor of the fast-food eateries, so that even American institutions like the diner and the cafeteria, where excellent American fare could be had, found it difficult if not impossible to compete with the fast-food places’ prices and “fun atmosphere.”

The reaction to all this was the development of a culinary elitism that once again pronounced the excellence of French, Italian, and Oriental cuisines and the horrid state of American gastronomy. Even a charming Boston woman named Julia Child enjoyed a long run on public television showing Americans how to cook, not turkey with stuffing, clam chowders, or scrod, but rôti de porc poêle, canard a l’orange, and choux de Bruxelles. Credit must be given to such a television program and to Mrs. Child for relieving the inferiority complex American cooks had about French food and complex cooking processes in general. Her tone was typically Yankee and refreshingly reassuring, and she taught a generation how to care about excellent ingredients and attention to detail. And in her TV series in the 1980s, Child did feature American cooking and championed California wines.

There also appeared in the 1970s a number of works by authors who began seriously to restore traditional American fare to its proper perspective. James Beard, Craig Claiborne, James Villas, and Waverley Root spoke with authority and great affection of their childhood memories of catfish, Dungeness crab, pork barbecue, grits, blueberry bread, hot chilies, New England boiled dinner, Pacific oysters, potato salad, and scores of other delectables that many people had forgotten could be so very good when prepared with care and love and served with those same homely virtues.

At the same time, food magazines like Gourmet, Cuisine, Food & Wine, and others began devoting more space to American cookery, and even the Culinary Institute of America, a cooking school in Hyde Park, New York, long devoted to Continental cuisine, opened a separate course of study on American food.

The publication in 1970 of Time-Life’s beautifully produced Foods of the World included seven volumes on regional American cookery (right), which gave the food a legitimacy of the kind afforded French, Italian, and Japanese cuisines. Well written, gorgeously illustrated, and full of well-tested, explicit recipes, these volumes on New England, Creole and Acadian, Northwest, Eastern Heartland, Southern Style, Great West, and Melting Pot regional cooking showed just how diverse this nation’s cookery is. They revealed the wealth of tradition and history behind each dish and a people’s pride in every preparation.

Thousands of other authoritative regional cookbooks have appeared since then, ranging from specific books on a single item like chili or cheesecake to thick volumes of recipes compiled by women’s organizations throughout the United States. Several excellent histories of American food and drink have appeared within the last decade, along with delightful compendiums of lore and anecdotes on everything from candy bars and ice cream to North American fish. American wines, which in the 1970s became internationally respected, have been boosted by wine writers and recorded in narratives and encyclopedias with the same care and devotion to accuracy given the vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Things seem to be on the right track again.

Since the first edition of my book The Dictionary of American Food & Drink appeared in 1983––now as The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink in its 5th edition––American restaurants have garnered worldwide reputations, the American marketplace has absorbed thousands of new foods from every corner of the globe, the American farmer is now raising everything from kiwifruit to foie gras, and the American consumer has become far more sophisticated and demanding about the quality, availability, and safety of his or her food. And finally, the FDA has put some meaning and muscle into monitoring and defining what goes into our processed foods.


It is worth noting that when the foreign soccer players came to the U.S. for FIFA, they loved our food, not only because they found it tasty and new but because it was so American.
    As ever, but even more so now, American food is diversified, modified, substantial, complex, heterogeneous, subtle, humdrum, exciting, excessive, embracing, soul-warming and stomach-filling, hot, cold, prepared with honesty, concocted with audacity, promoted with passion, consumed with courage, debated with conviction, tossed in a pot, simmered in a kettle, fried in a skillet, chilled in a bowl, shaken in a canister, brewed in an urn, topped off, tossed out, shoved down, pushed aside, got through, held up, jiggled at the end of a pole, brought down with an arrow, skinned with a knife, tested with a finger, squeezed with a hand, sniffed at, cursed at, argued over, and beloved by a people who will try anything once.

What is American food?

It is all of this.


 





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NEW YORK CORNER





BRASSERIE COGNAC AMÉRICAIN

461 Fifth Avenue
212-470-5889

By John Mariani



 

    The announcement that master chef Michael Lomonaco (below), formerly of Porter House, was appointed as chef and partner for a new Brasserie Cognac set across from the New York Public Library was very good news. The chain of four restaurants under that name, run by the Serafina Group owned by Fabio Granato and Vittorio Assaf, adds the fifth iteration that is quite a spectacular advance set over two stories. It has a bright glistening horseshoe bar, broad dining room, banquettes, beautiful white marble tables and, somehow, a noise level that is not as high as you might expect in a place with these high ceilings.

       Open only a month when I visited, the service staff was in full swing, from the charming hostesses who greet you to manager Bruce  Crystal’s smooth ministrations and the waiters who keep the pace going.  

       Thus far, the new Brasserie’s all day menu doesn’t differ much from the other branches’  with a few new items and a separate “La Boucherie” section with six cuts from steak frites to a 30-ounce côte de boeuf.

The wine list is not huge but more than serviceable for brasserie cuisine. The thick wineglasses are not.

You’ll begin with good bread and butter, but the cheese-rich gougeres were a hit as much for four adults as for a young child who gobbled his up with obvious relish. The Alsatian onion tart was made with goat’s cheese and bacon, and it’s always good to find silky leeks au  vinaigrette gribiche with warm shallots in summer. There’s a big roast marrow bone, and the sauteed duck foie gras was particularly luscious via its sour cherry compote and brioche toast. Unexpected but delicious was an ahi tuna bowl of sushi rice, avocado, pineapple, edamame, relish and cucumber.

Steak frites was made with the butcher’s hanger cut with maître d butter and a mess of perfect French fries. I’ve seen a return of the classic old canard à l’orange on French menus, and here the magret breast, cooked rare, came with a sauce deeply reduced and spiked with Grand Marnier, accompanied by butter-rich potato puree.

I was torn about ordering from the burgers and sandwiches section, which contains a fried chicken club, a Croque monsieur or madame, a lobster roll, even a French dip of roast sirloin with caramelized onions sopping up beef juices. In the end I went with the LaFrieda Signature burger––LaFrieda being a top meat supplier in New York–– which was made with Prime beef cheese, grilled onion, lettuce, tomato and French fries. It was fine burger, if not the best in a city where competition is fierce.

For seafood there is a finely grilled branzino à la Provençale with a tangy ratatouille.

A good brasserie’s jolly atmosphere demands ordering desserts, and Brasserie Cognac is delivering with practiced attention to getting the crust of the crème brûleé perfect (below); the generous portion of chocolate laced profiteroles; and a seven-layer deep dark chocolate cake that is more sky high American than Parisian and welcome for that distinction.

This version of Brasserie Cognac has immediately become the company’s flagship, and at a time when restaurateurs are said to be cautious about capital investment, Serafina has gone all out and given the city a spectacular venue fittingly across from the magnificent Library. The neighborhood seems to be a new nexus, with the Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant around the corner, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse under the highway bridge, the haute cuisine Gabriel Kreuther down the block and Daniel Boulud’s Le Pavillon on Vanderbilt Avenue. It’s simple logic: New York can never have enough great restaurants.

 

 

Open daily four lunch and dinner. Brunch Sat. & Sun.    





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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell


CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT



It was now the  beginning of March and the weather had begun to change. The snow had mostly disappeared in the Hudson Valley and David had even seen some crocuses pushing through the ground in his garden. He was hoping against hope that winter had killed off the invasive Giant Hogweed plants but that, too, looked like it was coming back.
       He had kept in touch with Rush but no body had been found. The police had spoken to Vargas but learned nothing. They’d also contacted informers they’d used in the past, though, given the corruption among the Palm Beach Police force, most of what they got was of negligible value. There were rumors out on the streets about a murder—murders were almost non-existent in Palm Beach but not so rare across the bridges in grittier West Palm Beach—but no one had any evidence to corroborate it. Rush had also tried to contact the girls who had first spoken to Susannah, but it seemed none of them was any longer on Epstein’s premises.
    Then, one morning, Rush called David with an update.
   “We found out about a girl named Sarah Doyle,” he said. “The FBI checked its data base on missing teenagers and found a girl by that name who had lived in Sealy, west of Houston. From what they could find out from the parents, she’d gone on a trip to New York during school break and never came back, but she did let them know she was okay and mentioned being in New Mexico and Florida. Never mentioned Epstein.”
       “When was this?”
       “She left Texas about five months ago. Last her parents heard from her was about six weeks ago. Since then, nothing.”
       “Didn’t they contact the FBI?” asked David.
       “Well, they knew she hadn’t been kidnapped, so what could they tell the FBI? But at least this helps confirm that there was this girl named Sarah Doyle and that she lived at Epstein’s homes. The Feds opened a file on her. Nothing else in it, though.”
       David knew from experience that that was not enough to get a search warrant to get into Epstein’s premises in Palm Beach. If no one reports a person as missing, there’s no reason to investigate. Without a dead body, there was no crime to investigate either.
       Rush said, “I also spoke with our friend Cherico at the IRS and told him it seemed like Epstein had flown the coop to Cuba so he could check out any transfer of funds. Believe it or not, it’s easier to track illegal money in Cuba than it is to the Virgin Islands or the Caymans.”
       “Find anything?”
       “Not in Cuba, but it seems one of Epstein’s shell companies gave a load of money to the
Colombian President he flew to Havana. The transfer came via JP Morgan.”
       “Hedging his bets?”
       “Never a bad thing to have friends who owe you one. That said, it looks like Epstein’s set to fly back to Palm Beach tomorrow. He must feel he’s safe, or maybe protected, from prosecution for the time being. I’m sure he knows that we haven’t found a body, which long ago became fish food in the Atlantic.”
       David felt the remark was pretty crude and said, “If I were still a cop in New York. . . 
       “Well, you’re not, David. So please stop with all this bullshit about how you’d handle an investigation. I used to work up there, too, remember?”
       David apologized and said he appreciated all Rush had been telling him thus far.
       “Without someone on the inside talking,” said Rush, “this investigation is stalled.”

             

       Katie was feeling wholly frustrated by the lack of progress on what she felt sure was a story with a murder in it attached to the horrors of the Epstein perfidies. Now, with Epstein blithely back at the supposed scene of the crime, she wracked her brain as to how to penetrate the shield Epstein had erected around him with the help of highly placed and very powerful men, not just in Palm Beach and the rest of the United States but even outside of it.
       It came as a surprise, then, when she received a phone call from Ghislaine Maxwell, asking if Katie could meet her at her townhouse that afternoon.
       This time Maxwell greeted Katie at the door and brought her downstairs into a room that served as a wine cellar, closing the door behind them.
       “What are we doing down here, Ghislaine?” asked Katie, feeling ill at ease in the cool, temperature-controlled room.
       Maxwell twirled her finger in the air and looked around the room, indicating there were no cameras or recording devices, then said, “No one can hear or see us down here.”
       Katie got a chill from the cold air, and said, “So, why did you want to see me?”
       “I’m telling you this on deep background, all right? No notebook, no recorder.”
       Katie said that was fine, crossing her legs and putting her hands in her lap.
       “So?”
       “Remember I told you that I had very negative feelings about  Angus Pierce? And I said the reasons were personal and had nothing to do with Jeffrey? Well, as you may know, my father Robert was very helpful to Jeffrey at the beginning of his career. By the time my father died, Jeffrey was very well set up and, though he was always on good terms with my father, Jeffrey had developed a very large coterie of powerful friends.”
       Katie wanted to say, “Friends he entertained at sex parties and expected favors from,” but she thought it better neither to bring up the obvious nor put Maxwell at on the defensive.
       Maxwell went on: “One of those men was Angus Pierce, whom my father despised, as they both did Rupert Murdoch. I think one of the reasons Jeffrey wanted to buy New York magazine was to own a tiny piece of the  kind of media those men controlled in abundance.”
       Katie interrupted. “Excuse me for stopping you there, but did Jeffrey ever show any interest in buying McClure’s?”
       Maxwell shook her head. “Not that he ever mentioned to me.”
       Katie said, “Please go on.”
       “Well, as you know, my father was in some financial trouble the year he died, but, as I told you, that was not the first time and he would always laugh such things off. My father had an ego, and he could be very tough. He loved getting out of tight spots. So, when it looked like he was close to bankruptcy, there were suitors to buy this or that piece of his media empire, and Angus was one of them. But although my father entertained some of the offers he had, he swore to me and said publicly, he would never sell so much as a copy of a newspaper to Angus, no matter how sweet the offer.”
       “And that hatred of Pierce carried over into your own opinion of him?”
       “I didn’t really have much of an opinion of him at first. But when he had my father murdered, I obviously developed a deep-seated hatred for the man but could not act on it.”
       Katie shook her head. “Hold on, hold on. You’re saying you believe Pierce had your father thrown off the ship at sea?”
       Maxwell’s eyes became watery. “In my heart of hearts I’m sure of it. But there was what was said to be a very thorough investigation that could not determine how his going overboard occurred. They couldn’t discount the possibility someone pushed him over or that he committed suicide or that he simply fell somehow, but they could not come up with a conclusion.”
       “Did you tell the authorities you thought it was Pierce who’d ordered a hit?”
       “I told them I was positive it was a murder but I was too scared at that point to make an accusation. There I was, not knowing what was going to happen to me, financially and otherwise—I never saw my father’s will and was sure it would go through endless probate—but I was also scared of what Angus might do to me.”
       “Couldn’t you turn to Jeffrey for help?”
       “I hadn’t even met Jeffrey by then. And when we finally did get together and Jeffrey helped me financially, he was already friendly with Angus. I hadn’t the power or clout to tell Jeffrey to push Angus out of his circle—they’d become very close, and Angus had helped him out, probably more than my father had by then.”
       “And you never told Jeffrey you thought Pierce had your father murdered?”
       “I did,” said Maxwell, “but there was no proof, and Jeffrey accepted the conclusion—or non-conclusion—of the official investigation. He told me he wasn’t going to break off his friendship with Angus on the basis of what he said was only my hunch.”
       “So, why are you telling me this now?” asked Katie.
       Maxwell wiped her eyes with a tissue, took a deep breath, paused and said, “Because, Katie, I do think it was Angus who had a role in that girl’s death. Maybe it was an accident, but it happened, and I’ve been devastated ever since I heard about it.”
       Once again, Katie sat in disbelief at hearing people like Sanchez and Maxwell express being appalled at crimes committed within webs of wickedness they themselves had helped spin.
       “Did you ask Jeffrey about all this?”
       “Yes, and he said there had been an accident—a girl overdosed —but he refused to say Angus was involved. And there I was again, scared of what Angus might do to me or anyone who knew about the incident.”
       “You mean the other girls in the house?”
       “Yes. Jeffrey sent them off to his island and to Zorro. I suspected why, but couldn’t be sure. It seemed impossible to conceive of Angus murdering each of them. Jeffrey most certainly had not been involved in any such actions.”
       “You really think Pierce is capable of intentional murders like that?”
       “I told you. I’m sure he had my father killed, just to get hold of his empire. Why wouldn’t he kill to cover up something like this? A lot of Jeffrey’s friends get away with murder in a figurative sense all the time, but not real murder. If Angus were found out, all Jeffrey’s friends would turn on both of them in order to show they had not ever been involved in such a horrific thing. And Katie, another reason I’m telling you this is because I don’t want you to get into Angus’s cross hairs. I don’t know if he knows how involved you are in your investigation, but if he finds out he’s going to try to stop you somehow.”
       “He already has,” said Katie.
       Maxwell’s eyes widened. “What do you mean? You’ve been threatened?”
       “No, at least not yet, but I’m pretty sure who’s trying to buy McClure’s.” 

 

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024






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WHY THERE'LL ALWAYS
BE AN ENGLAND


"I’m not saying that Dante, at Claridge’s in Mayfair, is the ultimate American restaurant, but ooh, do you feel you are entering a seductive, soothing, expensive, smoothly grinning money machine as you are ushered through the foyer and into the bowels of the hotel’s clean new restaurant. . . . It’s certainly a lot of money for martinis that aren’t real, to sit at tables that are too big, in a place that’s clattery in a way the Wolseley never is, among Americans whom the hotel only considers desirable because at least they aren’t Middle Easterners."––Camilla Long, "Dante," London Times (6/21/26).

 





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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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