|
MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet FEBRUARY
22,
2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() ICEBERG RESTAURANT, TULSA, OKLAHOMA
❖❖❖ THIS WEEK
BEST RESTAURANTS ON ARTHUR AVENUE By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER ELEVEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR By John Mariani ❖❖❖ THE BEST RESTAURANTS By John
Mariani
ZERO OTTO NOVE What
hits you first behind every restaurant door on
Arthur Avenue is the aroma––each one
different, perhaps the smell of long-cooked
tomato sauce, or the smoky smell of pizza
coming out of the oven or the perfume of basil
floating in the air atop gnocchi al pesto––not
to mention the baked bread and sweet cookies
in the bakeries. Arthur
Avenue, the main drag through the Belmont
section of Fordham in the Bronx, and its off
shoot of East 187th Street, has
been New York’s true Little Italy since its
establishment at the turn of the 19th
century when immigrants from Southern Italy
came here to cut the stones for the Botanical
Garden, the Bronx Zoo and Fordham University,
and its restaurants just keep getting better
and better, added to by a large influx Eastern
European immigrants who have opened their
places serving toe food of Slovenia, Albania
and Croatia. Here
are the best of the neighborhood, in no
particular order. I cover the
world’s
ls, restaurants and
wine ROBERTO’S (603 Crescent
Avenue; 718-733-9503). Along with Zero
SAN GENNARO
(2329 Arthur Avenue; 718-562-0129).
Owner-chef Gennaro Martinelli serves
ÇAKOR (632
East
186th Street; 718-733-2300).
Given the number of Albanians who frequent
Çakor, you can be assured that the food will
be wholly authentic from the meze appetizers
of feta, roasted peppers, sujuk
sausage and dried meats to the stuffed pljeskavica
meat patty, but the one dish you must
order––for two or more––is the roast baby lamb
done to such succulence as cause the meat to
come away from the bone at the touch of a
fork. There’s an Italian side to the menu that
you need not bother with. ❖❖❖
THE
BISON ![]()
CHAPTER ELEVEN
“How’s sunny Palm
Beach?” asked Katie over the phone.
“It’s freaking freezing up here.”
Katie spoke to Alan, rather
off-offhandedly, because she almost wished
he’d say no to the Epstein story so that she’d
be unfettered if she went to Palm Beach on her
own. (Alan liked to refer to putting his
writers on a leash which Katie hated.) On
the basis of experience she knew she’d be
re-reimbursed if a strong story materialized. And
Alan did say, “I don’t see this as a McClure’s
story yet, but you’ve proven me wrong
before. You want to go on your own, keep me
posted, and I’ll see what I think. Say hello
to David, but I don’t see him figuring into
this story.” David got there early and
was seated but soon found out that upon her
arrival Ramona Sanchez was treated like
royalty at Versailles, always
seated at the same table, readily in view of
people coming and going. It seemed that half
the men in the place knew her and most of
the women avoided her. As someone known for
her liberal donations to local charities,
she would even have an occasional priest
come by to say hello and whisper a
thank-you.
NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS
LOCKER
By John
Mariani
The world may be
drinking less liquor but it hasn’t stop
producers from bringing out new releases
that aim to distinguish themselves from
the tried-and-true. The very notion that
there are still novel ways to make Scotch
or Irish or Bourbon or Rye more
distinctive than competitors make those of
us who still appreciate the fineness of
good whiskey, it’s a challenge just to
keep up.
Here are some I’ve been delighted
with. Kilbeggan ($24).
This is currently my new “old” favorite
(and at a remarkable price) for it dates
back to
The Busker Single Pot Still
Small Batch ($40).
This
is Busker’s first small batch Irish
whiskey, tripled distilled, using
non-chill filtration to maintain the
essential flavors then double aged and
matured in first-fill bourbon casks, then
finished in Oloroso sherry European oak
butts at 46.3% alcohol at its Royal Oak
Distillery. They also make a Single Grain
matured in bourbon casks and Marsala
barrels from Sicily, emerging at 43.3%
Drumshanbo Tawny
Port Single Pot Still ($80).
Here’s a seven-year-old Irish triple
distilled with
The Muff Irish
Whiskey ($35)
A third new Irish whiskey, this from Muff
in County Donegal, founded by
Laura Bonner in 2018, and quite a peaty
one, made
with a five part blend of oat-matured malt
and double distilled malt, bourbon-cask
grain whiskey, with 43% alcohol. A shaggy
Russell Crow did a video for the brand.
Lasso
Motel
American Straight Whiskey 18-Year
Whiskey ($80).
Aged for 18 ❖❖❖ ![]() HOPE HE USED FREQUENT FLYER MILES 'Would You Wait 8 Hours
for This Waffle? I Flew West to Get On
Line."––Matthew Schneier, New York (Feb
2026).
|
![]() |
The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35) Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller. "This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe. "Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit. |
"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. "Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com. "A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia. "John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.
If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html
© copyright John Mariani 2026