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MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet MAY
31, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Ingrid Bergman and Alfred Hitchcock during the making of "Notorious" (1946)
❖❖❖ DINING OUT IN LISBON Part One By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER DOMINICK'S By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR BIG BOLD REDS FOR THE GRILL By John Mariani ![]() ANNOUNCEMENT: THERE WILL BE NO EDITION NEXT WEEK OF MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER BECAUSE MARIANI WILL BE LOLLING IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS IN ORDER TO WRITE ABOUT THEM ON MY RETURN. THE NEXT EDITION WILL BE SUNDAY, JUNE 14 ❖❖❖
DINING OUT IN LISBON Part One By John Mariani ![]() CLASSICO BEACH CLUB BY OLIVIER Photo by Hayley Kelsing You
could always eat well in Lisbon, given its
western rim on the Atlantic, the great
Douro River and the traditions of colonial
imports. Until recently the food was
substantial, fairly simple but lacked
excitement. That changed about ten years,
when modern chefs and restaurateurs began
opening places utilizing the finest
provender and seafood in novel ways that
borrowed ideas from other food cultures.
Last week my
interview in this newsletter with Olivier da
Costa of the Costa Group threw light on the
gastronomic changes in the city of Lisbon,
and, having spent a recent visit to the
beautiful city on the Tagus River, I was
amazed at the changes wrought, along with
the maintenance of long-cherished dishes one
still find in town.ãde Albuquerque) is a Costa Group restaurant that combines two appealing virtues––food that is seemingly simple yet riveted by new flavors. Located at the bend of the Tagus river in São João da Caparicas across from Lisbon, this is not a club but has the atmosphere of one you might find in Algarve or Alentejo. It is windswept and casual, set right on the beach, so taking a dip before or after lunch is just now becoming feasible. White tents and drapes open to the skies, and the tables are covered with white and tan linens. ![]() The food is advertised as "lighter" fare, and that is true insofar as this is principally a seaside seafood restaurant. But there is no lack of rich flavors and seasonings. The one-page menu begins with starters like a carpaccio of octopus or beets. Shrimp are heavily dosed with garlic and oil, and the tuna tartare is as fresh as the morning market. Steamed clams swim in a bulhão pato sauce of wine, oil and butter. Huge gambas come with silken black rice. A
beautiful, meaty sea bass was first seared
in a skillet then crisped under a
salamander, and there is a delicious
monkfish tail steak. There is also Lisbon's
version of a New England lobster roll, with
the pink meat formed into a burger patty and
served as a sandwich.No stinting on desserts here. The chocolate mousse is made with Kit Kat bars, and the pear crumble is based on at-their-peak of ripeness fruit. This is classic Portuguese cook done with panache, and the setting is as tranquil as the crowd wants it to be or even more festive when the lights go down.
At
lunch time you’ll find people hurrying to
narrow Travessa de Santo Antão to get an
outside
Inside everything bustles and you can smell
the food from the semi-open kitchen and
counter. The chicken is very moist, simply
seasoned with salt and pepper, and
delightfully crisp. To go with it the fried
potatoes are good, as is the esparregado of
creamed spinach, and the arroz a
brasileira of rice spiked with onion
and garlic. Also not to be missed are the
garlic grilled shrimp. You soak up the juices
of everything with the big puffy
NEW YORK CORNER DOMINICK’S 2335 Arthur Avenue 718-733-2807
By
John Mariani
Of all the Italian
restaurants on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx’s Little
Italy, Dominick’s has maintained and perpetuated a
reputation as a scruffy, no frills place serving
hearty Italian-American classics. With its usual
condescension, New York Magazine once
wrote of Dominick’s during the heyday of The
Sopranos, “What’s
the deal? Aren’t the double-parked Cadillac a
big enough wink-wink? If you’re still clueless,
notice how everyone sitting family-style at
Dominick’s sounds … like family!” Which is, to
put it bluntly, total bullshit.
The place itself is as barebones as you can get: A
medium-sized room with a small bar up front,
wainscotting, ceiling fan and wall sconces, some
framed pictures no has looked at in ages and
oblong tables topped with brown oil cloth. In a
corner sits the owner and overseer, Charlie de
Paolo, who took over Dominick's in 1992.
There is a menu, which has been set in place for
decades, with appetizers like stuffed artichokes
(very good) and fried calamari, then sixteen
pastas––half of them made with linguine, five with
ziti, plus the day’s special, which on my last
visit was announced as baked ziti, which was
already on the menu.
There are about 30 meat dishes and five
seafood (which tells you something), so stick with
the former rather than the latter, although I have
had some delicious flounder in lemon sauce here. There is also a
number of “Sunday Specials” that are stuffed
pastas like lasagna and beef braciola, but
curiously “No Linguine.”
Portions are beyond generous and meant to be
shared or take home. Prices don’t differ much from
most competitors on Arthur Avenue.
As I’ve noted, this is hearty fare, with plenty of
flavor built
into the long-simmered sauces, so the meat sauce
has bulk reduced to its essence. So, too, the baked
ziti makes the grade. The Friday special of
seafood salad is as fresh as you could wish (there
are two fish markets on the block) and large
enough for two as an antipasto.
Dominick’s wins
no points for originality, nor does its clientele
seek it as long as their favorite dishes are still
on the menu. And they will be, tomorrow and next
year. Dominick’s isn’t going anywhere soon. Open for
lunch and dinner Thurs.-Sun. ❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
When Katie arrived at the office, the staff was standing around in muffled conversation then turned as Dobell and McClure’s publisher, Roger Sheridan entered the room. Sheridan came from a Canadian family that had made a fortune in the newspaper industry, and it was he who revived the McClure’s name for a magazine that would have international scope and clout. Ever since he had brought the magazine headquarters to New York he had been largely hands-off the editorial side and dealt with the financials of keeping alive a magazine that made only a slight profit some years. Most of the staff had never laid eyes on him in the flesh. Dobell
introduced him and said he had an important
announcement.
Sheridan, in his fifties, was very
tall and imposing, having once been a star
soccer player at college. He had a strong
forehead and cleft chin, blue eyes and a
receding hairline combed back with a widow’s
peak, and gray sideburns. He was without a
jacket but wore a perfectly fitted striped
shirt and a McGill University red-and-blue
club tie with suspenders in the same colors.“Thank you, Alan,” he began, “and thank you all for showing up on such short notice. I can see by the look in some of your eyes you are expecting some dire announcement that will affect you directly, so let me get right to the point. There has been an offer to buy McClure’s.” The staff members looked at each other in disbelief. “Now, you need not worry. I have no intention of selling our beloved magazine, of which I am so proud that you all work so hard for. I think you’re the best in the business, and you’ve won awards against formidable competitors.” He seemed to glance at Katie. “The reason I am here is, I suppose, simply to shore up your faith in McClure’s and me. As you know, I try never to interfere with your work, and I have Alan here to always spring to your defense. And he is—most of the time—correct, and I’ve had to limp back to Canada, chastened. “Now, I’ve had offers—feelers really—about buying the magazine before, but no one has ever tended a specific offer. Frankly, I think anyone buying McClure’s would have a tough time maintaining it. I don’t have to tell you we don’t turn a huge profit, but, since it’s privately owned, I don’t have to reveal anything about our finances except to the tax people. But this offer was curious to me. First of all, I heard from a middleman, a broker, if you will, who will not reveal who the buyer is. That’s not really unusual until we get to the negotiation stage. What is unusual is that the broker says this deal has to be concluded as soon as possible. I asked why, and he said that there are financial reasons why he needs the deal done. Possibly due to quarterly earnings reports, tax deductions and the like. The broker also said that if we can make a deal quickly, the buyer will swear not to be involved in the day-to-day workings of the magazine. He even wants me to continue as publisher. But that kind of promise is never ironclad. If he owns it he can fire me whenever he wants. “Now, I must tell you that the first offer being made is exceptionally, even suspiciously, generous. Beyond what the magazine would fetch if I put it on the market today. And it’s all in cash.” Katie remembered how New York magazine, for whatever reason, sold for $55 million, a sum no one expected would be so high. It was still too early to tell, but it remained to be seen what the new owner was going to do with that magazine. Sheridan went on. “I don’t have to tell you that everything has a price tag. I’d be a fool not to entertain offers. But fortunately I’ve still resources to keep McClure’s going, and unless someone buys all of Sheridan Publishing, which is also privately owned, I have no current incentive to sell the magazine. So, any questions?” Hands went up. “Mr. Sheridan,” asked an assistant editor, “I think I speak for everyone with a sigh of relief after what you’ve said, although you did use the word ‛current.’ Does that mean you might consider an offer down the line?” “Well, of course. Every company has its ups and downs, and as you well know, the inroads being made by e-commerce is not only increasing but quickening. And believe me, our people are working feverishly to get in bed with that enemy rather than fight it. We are building an entire digital platform and hope that e-commerce ads will greatly increase revenue in all of our properties in the future.” Another hand. “Mr. Sheridan, you say you have no idea who this potential buyer is or why he or she might be making such a generous offer?” Sheridan shook his head. “No, not at this time. At some point he or she will have to reveal who he or she is, and if I had any intention of selling, which I do not, the question of why he or she wants the property would be part of the negotiations. But, no, I have no idea why he or she is interested in buying McClure’s." Katie felt she did.
David, meanwhile, was
on the phone with a Manhattan
assistant D.A. named Robin Keogh with whom
he worked often in the past. After Roger Sheridan
left, Katie asked Dobell if they could speak
in his office.
❖❖❖
NOTES FROM
THE WINE CELLAR
BIG
BOLD REDS By John Mariani ![]() I hardly need to make an
argument that summer’s grilled foods require big
bold reds, with the exception, of course, of
seafood, though even grilled salmon takes well to a
lighter red. But always to head immediately to the
shelf for a big California Cabernet Sauvignon is to
ignore how many red wines from elsewhere are
delicious with grilled items. Here are
some I’m pulling the cork on now.
TURKS HEAD MOON MOUNTAIN
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
SURRAU NARACU CANNONAU DI
SARDEGNA ($23). Made by the Demuro Family in the
northeast region of Galura and Surrau
Valley in Sardinia, where granite is abundant in the
soil, this hearty Cannonau comes from 20-year-old
vines and spends
6 months in stainless steel, with no oak
barrel age. Thus, it is a very fresh with forward
herbaceous notes followed by minerality, making it
excellent with pastas with pesto or grilled
chicken.
BARGYLUS
GRAND VIN DE SYRIE ($64). Since 2003 Karim and
Sandro Saadé family of
Latakia, Syria, have earned a reputation for making
some of the finest wines of the Middle Eastern
Mediterranean. With the management of French consultant Stéphane
Derenoncourt, they have learned how to make
Bordeaux-style wines, in the case of their Grand
Vin using 60% Syrah, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon. It’s a deeply-flavored purple wine and
its 14.5% alcohol
pushes the upper limits, but its spiciness,
herbal notes and tannins make it ideal for Middle
Eastern dishes that often contain dried fruits,
like couscous and tagines.
MOONE TSAI COR LEONIS 2021 ($330). Sometimes
you can sense how much care went into the crafting
of a Napa Valley Cab, and founders
Larry and MaryAnn Tsai with winemaker Philippe
Melka are showing how much personality and finesse
can be achieved. The vineyards are in Pritchard
Hill, St. Helena, and Caldwell Vineyard's Block 15
in Coombsville, and the dryness of 2021 focused
the intensity of the fruit, whose juices spent 18
months in new French oak. It's
up to you to decide if its worth the price tag. QUINTA NOVA POMARES 2021
($15). The
Douro Valley, best known for Port, has made
remarkable strides in red wine viticulture, and
Quinta Nova’s blend of 40% Tinta
Roriz, 35% Touriga Franca and 25% Touriga Nacional Tinta Roriz is a
striking example of a medium-bodied
red with plenty of berry flavors at 13.5%
alcohol, picking up some sweet hints of old
oak. This style goes with so many dishes, but
would be particularly good with rare lamb and
white beans in olive oil and garlic. A very
good price, too. ❖❖❖ ![]() A-GLAMPING WE WILL GO! "This
Glamping Resort Set in a Georgia Forest Has a
Private Barrel Sauna, Hot Tubs, and Stunning Sunset
Views" By Evie Carrick, Travel & Leisure (May
16, 2026).
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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