MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

MAY 31, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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Ingrid Bergman and Alfred Hitchcock during the making of "Notorious" (1946)



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DINING OUT IN LISBON
Part One
By John Mariani



NEW YORK CORNER
DOMINICK'S

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY-FOUR

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
BIG BOLD REDS FOR THE GRILL

By John Mariani





ANNOUNCEMENT:
THERE WILL BE NO EDITION NEXT WEEK OF MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER BECAUSE MARIANI WILL BE LOLLING IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS IN ORDER TO WRITE ABOUT THEM ON MY RETURN. THE NEXT EDITION WILL BE SUNDAY, JUNE 14
















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DINING OUT IN LISBON
Part One
By John Mariani




CLASSICO BEACH CLUB BY OLIVIER

Photo by Hayley Kelsing

    You could always eat well in Lisbon, given its western rim on the Atlantic, the great Douro River and the traditions of colonial imports. Until recently the food was substantial, fairly simple but lacked excitement. That changed about ten years, when modern chefs and restaurateurs began opening places utilizing the finest provender and seafood in novel ways that borrowed ideas from other food cultures.
    Last week my interview in this newsletter with Olivier da Costa of the Costa Group threw light on the gastronomic changes in the city of Lisbon, and, having spent a recent visit to the beautiful city on the Tagus River, I was amazed at the changes wrought, along with the maintenance of long-cherished dishes one still find in town.
ãde Albuquerque) is a Costa Group restaurant that combines two appealing  virtues––food that is seemingly simple yet riveted by new flavors.  Located at the bend of the Tagus river in São João da Caparicas across from Lisbon, this is not a club but has the atmosphere of one you might find in Algarve or Alentejo. It is windswept and casual, set right on the beach, so taking a dip before or after lunch is just now becoming feasible. White tents and drapes open to the skies, and the tables are covered with white and tan linens.
    The food is advertised as "lighter" fare, and that is true insofar as this is principally a seaside seafood restaurant. But there is no lack of rich flavors and seasonings. The one-page menu begins with starters like a carpaccio of octopus or beets. Shrimp are heavily dosed with garlic and oil, and the tuna tartare is as fresh as the morning market.  Steamed clams swim in a bulhão pato sauce of wine, oil and butter. Huge gambas come with silken black rice.
    A beautiful, meaty sea bass was first seared in a skillet then crisped under  a salamander, and there is a delicious monkfish tail steak. There is also Lisbon's version of a New England lobster roll, with the pink meat formed into a burger patty and served as a sandwich.
     No stinting on desserts here. The chocolate mousse is made with Kit Kat bars, and the pear crumble is based on at-their-peak of ripeness fruit.
    This is classic Portuguese cook done with panache, and the setting is as tranquil as the crowd wants it to be or even more festive when the lights go down.






    At lunch time you’ll find people hurrying to narrow Travessa de Santo Antão to get an outside table at Bom Jardin, which Lisboans know as "Rei do Frango" (King of Chickens) for a platter of fabulous spit-roasted chicken with fried potatoes, and a couple of bottles of cold Sagres beer. The whole chicken costs €12.30 and easily feeds four.
     There may be a line outside, but it moves fairly fast and you may dine under a green awning on the street.
               



     Inside everything bustles and you can smell the food from the semi-open kitchen and counter. The chicken is very moist, simply seasoned with salt and pepper, and delightfully crisp. To go with it the fried potatoes are good, as is the esparregado of creamed spinach, and the arroz a brasileira of rice spiked with onion and garlic. Also not to be missed are the garlic grilled shrimp. You soak up the juices of everything with the big puffy bread rolls provided, then for dessert have the bolo de Maçã sweet and spiced apple cake. There is a wine list but everybody orders the Sagres.
    Afterwards––or before or at any time––just down the street is a hole in the wall here since 1840, with a small counter where, day after day, year after year, decade after decade  two elderly fellows pour out shot glasses of ginjinha, made by infusing Morello cherries in Portuguese brandy, to be enjoyed with or without a cherry at the bottom. Its alcohol level is up to 25 percent and in cold weather has a bracing effect; in warm weather it just makes you smile. There are half a dozen such spots around the city but the one at Largo de Sao Domingos is the most historic.



 




NEW YORK CORNER


DOMINICK’S

2335 Arthur Avenue

718-733-2807


By John Mariani



Baked Ziti



       Of all the Italian restaurants on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx’s Little Italy, Dominick’s has maintained and perpetuated a reputation as a scruffy, no frills place serving hearty Italian-American classics. With its usual condescension, New York Magazine once wrote of Dominick’s during the heyday of The Sopranos, “What’s the deal? Aren’t the double-parked Cadillac a big enough wink-wink? If you’re still clueless, notice how everyone sitting family-style at Dominick’s sounds … like family!” Which is, to put it bluntly, total bullshit.

       The greeting and service style––it’s still just cash-only––used to fall just this side of rudeness, but in the last few years, with an influx of young waiters, the attitude has been replaced with good,  friendly helpful service, and it’s best to listen to their explanation of the day’s specials. They’ve also memorized the short list of undistinguished wines.

    The place itself is as barebones as you can get: A medium-sized room with a small bar up front, wainscotting, ceiling fan and wall sconces, some framed pictures no has looked at in ages and oblong tables topped with brown oil cloth. In a corner sits the owner and overseer, Charlie de Paolo, who took over Dominick's in 1992.

    There is a menu, which has been set in place for decades, with appetizers like stuffed artichokes (very good) and fried calamari, then sixteen pastas––half of them made with linguine, five with ziti, plus the day’s special, which on my last visit was announced as baked ziti, which was already on the menu.

       There are about 30 meat dishes and five seafood (which tells you something), so stick with the former rather than the latter, although I have had some delicious flounder in lemon sauce here.

There is also a number of “Sunday Specials” that are stuffed pastas like lasagna and beef braciola, but curiously “No Linguine.”

    Portions are beyond generous and meant to be shared or take home. Prices don’t differ much from most competitors on Arthur Avenue.

    As I’ve noted, this is hearty fare, with plenty of flavor  built into the long-simmered sauces, so the meat sauce has bulk reduced to its essence. So, too, the  baked ziti makes the grade. The Friday special of seafood salad is as fresh as you could wish (there are two fish markets on the block) and large enough for two as an antipasto.

    Among the main courses I recommend the pork chops with hot cherry peppers, and Dominick’s veal parmigiana is excellent. Disappointing, however, is the chicken scarpariello––admirably made with the bone, but the chicken was overcooked and dry and the dish lacked any real punch from the onions, garlic and peppers.

    Dominick’s  wins no points for originality, nor does its clientele seek it as long as their favorite dishes are still on the menu. And they will be, tomorrow and next year. Dominick’s isn’t going anywhere soon.

 

Open for lunch and dinner Thurs.-Sun.

 



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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell


    When Katie arrived at the office, the staff was standing around in muffled conversation then turned as Dobell and McClure’s publisher, Roger Sheridan entered the room. Sheridan came from a Canadian family that had made a fortune in the newspaper industry, and it was he who revived the McClure’s name for a magazine that would have international scope and clout. Ever since he had brought the magazine headquarters to New York he had been largely hands-off the editorial side and dealt with the financials of keeping alive a magazine that made only a slight profit some years. Most of the staff had never laid eyes on him in the flesh.    
   
Dobell introduced him and said he had an important announcement.
  Sheridan, in his fifties, was very tall and imposing, having once been a star soccer player at college. He had a strong forehead and cleft chin, blue eyes and a receding hairline combed back with a widow’s peak, and gray sideburns. He was without a jacket but wore a perfectly fitted striped shirt and a McGill University red-and-blue club tie with suspenders in the same colors.
     
“Thank you, Alan,” he began, “and thank you all for showing up on such short notice. I can see by the look in some of your eyes you are expecting some dire announcement that will affect you directly, so let me get right to the point. There has been an offer to buy McClure’s.”

      
The staff members looked at each other in disbelief.

      
“Now, you need not worry. I have no intention of selling our beloved magazine, of which I am so proud that you all work so hard for.  I think you’re the best in the business, and you’ve won awards against formidable competitors.” He seemed to glance at Katie.

      
“The reason I am here is, I suppose, simply to shore up your faith in McClure’s and me.  As you know, I try never to interfere with your work, and I have Alan here to always spring to your defense. And he is—most of the time—correct, and I’ve had to limp back to Canada, chastened.

      
“Now, I’ve had offers—feelers really—about buying the magazine before, but no one has ever tended a specific offer. Frankly, I think anyone buying McClure’s would have a tough time maintaining it. I don’t have to tell you we don’t turn a huge profit, but, since it’s privately owned, I don’t have to reveal anything about our finances except to the tax people. But this offer was curious to me. First of all, I heard from a middleman, a broker, if you will, who will not reveal who the buyer is. That’s not really unusual until we get to the negotiation stage. What is unusual is that the broker says this deal has to be concluded as soon as possible. I asked why, and he said that there are financial reasons why he needs the deal done. Possibly due to quarterly earnings reports, tax deductions and the like. The broker also said that if we can make a deal quickly, the buyer will swear not to be involved in the day-to-day workings of the magazine. He even wants me to continue as publisher. But that kind of promise is never ironclad. If he owns it he can fire me whenever he wants.

      
“Now, I must tell you that the first offer being made is exceptionally, even suspiciously, generous. Beyond what the magazine would fetch if I put it on the market today. And it’s all in cash.”

      
Katie remembered how New York magazine, for whatever reason, sold for $55 million, a sum no one expected would be so high. It  was still too early to tell, but it remained to be seen what the new owner was going to do with that magazine.

      
Sheridan went on. “I don’t have to tell you that everything has a price tag. I’d be a fool not to entertain offers. But fortunately I’ve still resources to keep McClure’s going, and unless someone buys all of  Sheridan Publishing, which is also privately owned, I have no current incentive to sell the magazine. So, any questions?”

      
Hands went up.

      
“Mr. Sheridan,” asked an assistant editor, “I think I speak for everyone with a sigh of relief after what you’ve said, although you did use the word ‛current.’ Does that mean you might consider an offer down the line?”

      
“Well, of course. Every company has its ups and downs, and as you well know, the inroads being made by e-commerce is not only increasing but quickening. And believe me, our people are working feverishly to get in bed with that enemy rather than fight it. We are building an entire digital platform and hope that e-commerce ads will greatly increase revenue in all of our properties in the future.”

      
Another hand. “Mr. Sheridan, you say you have no idea who this potential buyer is or why he or she might be making such a generous offer?”

      
Sheridan shook his head. “No, not at this time. At some point he or she will have to reveal who he or she is, and if I had any intention of selling, which I do not, the question of why he or she wants the property would be part of the negotiations. But, no, I have no idea why he or she is interested in buying McClure’s."
       
Katie felt she did.  

 

       David, meanwhile, was on the phone with a  Manhattan assistant D.A. named Robin Keogh with whom he worked often in the past.
       “I know you’re aware that Epstein’s being investigated by the Palm Beach Police, the FBI and the IRS,” David said. “What about you guys here in New York?”
       Keogh said, “We’ve been monitoring all that, and Epstein’s been on our radar for a while, ever since that Ponzi scheme went down in flames.”
       “And how did Epstein get away from penalties for that blow-out?”
       “The case wasn’t strong enough against Epstein, but his accomplice in the scheme, Steven Hoffenberg right), ended up admitting
he swindled thousands of investors out of $460 million. He got 20 years in prison. He always claimed Epstein was actually the architect of the scheme, but Hoffenberg  was just completely oblivious to the dangers.  He always thought he was smarter than the next guy, and that was one of his problems. You know he once wanted to buy The Post, even funded the paper for three months to keep it out of bankruptcy? But his plans were derailed by the Securities and Exchange Commission that led to the criminal prosecution of the Ponzi case.”
       “And he’s still in jail?”
       “Yep, has another fifteen years to go.”
       “It seems all these guys want to own newspapers,” said David.
        “And pro ball teams.  And trophy wives half their age.”
        “Nest of vipers.”
       “Very fat vipers, David. They’re all driven by ego and thinking they can buy everybody off. And a lot of the time they do.”
       “I don’t suppose you can tell me if there are any ongoing investigations of Epstein by your office,” he said.
       “Like I said, he’s a person of interest to us.”
       David was in no way naïve about rich bad guys getting away with crimes, even murder, and he’d seen solid cases he brought to the D.A. either quashed or left to wither away. He tried to convince himself that he had done his job and whatever happened in the courts weren’t his problem. But such cases still stung him, whether they were mobsters, murderers or white collar enablers. They all had high paid lawyers who were given the money to buy off cops, D.A.s and judges. Epstein seemed a perfect example. 

       After Roger Sheridan left, Katie asked Dobell if they could speak in his office.
       “Dodged a bullet, I guess,” he said. “Sometimes I wish I really did have a bottle of whiskey in my desk drawer. So, what did you think, Katie?”
       “Aside from a certain amount of shock?”
       “Sheridan assured me everything he told us was how it was going to be. Then again, when Clay Felker wanted to keep Murdoch from buying New York back in the seventies, Clay (left) stood up on the desk and told us all there was no way Murdoch was taking over. I was there back then. The next day Felker was gone and Murdoch was in.”
          “Well, the question in my mind, Alan, is, obviously, who’s the mystery man, but even more, why? As Sheridan said, McClure’s is not exactly a cash cow for his company.”
       “True, but he really does think of us as one of his trophies, and like all these powerful men who own magazines, it gives them enormous presence and clout. Even if he lost money it’s a write-off.”
       “Yeah, I’ve been hearing that a lot lately. So you think this is just another rich man who wants to buy us? Like any of those who failed to buy New York?”
       “Much different trophies,” said Dobell. “If Zuckerman wanted New York to expand coverage  and ad sales downtown, he’s not going to get that by buying us. Same with Weinstein. Hell, we don’t cover entertainment. Same with Epstein, who’s more interested in the high life than in a magazine like McClure’s.”
       “I understand all that,” said Katie, “but that bit about the deal having to be concluded ASAP, what’s that about? This is not like buying a pitcher from a rival baseball team.”
       “Well, Sheridan’s only had this one offer, so there’s no competition.”
       “That’s not what it sounds like to me, Alan.”
       “What does it sound like to you, Katie?”
       Katie took a deep breath. “What it sounds like is someone who wants to get hold of this magazine and stop our investigation into Epstein and his friends.”
       Dobell rolled his eyes and said, “Katie, you’ve got great instincts, but you don’t even have a firm assignment on this story until you can tie in the financials with the dirty stuff.”
       “Alan, this is not a case where you just ‛follow the money.’ It’s about these men not wanting to be exposed for what they’re involved in. Can’t you imagine a bunch of them tossing in cash to make the purchase? Money that isn’t traceable to them?”
       “And what exactly would these people get from buying McClure’s?”
       “Comfort in knowing we’re not going to pursue the story and  then kill it.”
       “Whoa, whoa, whoa! You think you’re on to something so scandalous that a consortium of these guys is going to buy the magazine and immediately kill the story?”
       “Yes, and me along with it.”
       “Sounds a bit paranoid, Katie.”
       “I don’t mean literally murder me—though given my history it often seems to come to that—but I mean have me fired. They’re all aware that I’m working on this story.”
       “And then see you take the story to another magazine? That doesn’t help them much.”
       Then it dawned on Katie that maybe she really was in someone’s cross hairs.


 © John Mariani, 2024







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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR




BIG BOLD REDS

By John Mariani

 

    I hardly need to make an argument that summer’s grilled foods require big bold reds, with the exception, of course, of seafood, though even grilled salmon takes well to a lighter red. But always to head immediately to the shelf for a big California Cabernet Sauvignon is to ignore how many red wines from elsewhere are delicious with grilled items.  Here are some I’m pulling the cork on now.

 

CATTLEYA THE GODDESS SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR 2024 ($65). Most of the finer California Pinot Noirs come out of Sonoma County, though many are too heavy with cloying fruit, Cattleya’s The Goddess, culled from clones from Mt. Eden and Swan, enjoy the coolness of the microclimate, spending 18 months in 60% new French oak barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place, then was bottled unfined, which gives it further nuance. Kudos for its moderate 14% alcohol level, so that it is perfect with pork, veal and lamb.

 

TURKS HEAD MOON MOUNTAIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 ($58). If you like ‘em big and bold, this 100% Cab is for you. Grapes come from various Sonoma vineyards combine to give a traditional style of dark, tannins and earthiness, aged in 35% new French oak. It can certainly age well, but enjoy it now with a charred ribeye. 


SURRAU NARACU CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA ($23). Made by the Demuro Family in the northeast region of Galura  and Surrau Valley in Sardinia, where granite is abundant in the soil, this hearty Cannonau comes from 20-year-old vines and spends  6 months in stainless steel, with no oak barrel age. Thus, it is a very fresh with forward herbaceous notes followed by minerality, making it excellent with pastas with pesto or grilled chicken.   


BARGYLUS GRAND VIN DE SYRIE ($64). Since 2003 Karim and Sandro Saadé family  of Latakia, Syria, have earned a reputation for making some of the finest wines of the Middle Eastern Mediterranean. With the management of French consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, they have learned how to make Bordeaux-style wines, in the case of their Grand Vin using 60% Syrah, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a deeply-flavored purple wine and its 14.5% alcohol  pushes the upper limits, but its spiciness, herbal notes and tannins make it ideal for Middle Eastern dishes that often contain dried fruits, like couscous and tagines.    

MOONE TSAI COR LEONIS 2021  ($330). Sometimes you can sense how much care went into the crafting of a Napa Valley Cab, and founders Larry and MaryAnn Tsai with winemaker Philippe Melka are showing how much personality and finesse can be achieved. The vineyards are in Pritchard Hill, St. Helena, and Caldwell Vineyard's Block 15 in Coombsville, and the dryness of 2021 focused the intensity of the fruit, whose juices spent 18 months in new French oak.    It's up to you to decide if its worth the price tag.

QUINTA NOVA POMARES 2021 ($15).   The Douro Valley, best known for Port, has made remarkable strides in red wine viticulture, and Quinta Nova’s blend of 40% Tinta Roriz, 35% Touriga Franca and 25% Touriga Nacional  Tinta Roriz is a striking example of a  medium-bodied red with plenty of berry flavors at 13.5% alcohol, picking up some sweet hints of old oak. This style goes with so many dishes, but would be particularly good with rare lamb and white beans in olive oil and garlic. A very good price, too.

 




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A-GLAMPING WE WILL GO!

"This Glamping Resort Set in a Georgia Forest Has a Private Barrel Sauna, Hot Tubs, and Stunning Sunset Views" By Evie Carrick, Travel & Leisure (May 16, 2026).











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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2026




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