MARIANI’S


Virtual Gourmet

FEBRUARY 22, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 
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ICEBERG RESTAURANT, TULSA, OKLAHOMA

                                                                                                                                                                    
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THIS WEEK
BEST RESTAURANTS
ON ARTHUR AVENUE

By John Mariani



THE BISON
CHAPTER  ELEVEN
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

By John Mariani


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THE BEST RESTAURANTS
ON ARTHUR AVENUE IN THE BRONX

By John Mariani



ZERO OTTO NOVE

 

    What hits you first behind every restaurant door on Arthur Avenue is the aroma––each one different, perhaps the smell of long-cooked tomato sauce, or the smoky smell of pizza coming out of the oven or the perfume of basil floating in the air atop gnocchi al pesto––not to mention the baked bread and sweet cookies in the bakeries.

Arthur Avenue, the main drag through the Belmont section of Fordham in the Bronx, and its off shoot of East 187th Street, has been New York’s true Little Italy since its establishment at the turn of the 19th century when immigrants from Southern Italy came here to cut the stones for the Botanical Garden, the Bronx Zoo and Fordham University, and its restaurants just keep getting better and better, added to by a large influx Eastern European immigrants who have opened their places serving toe food of Slovenia, Albania and Croatia.

Here are the best of the neighborhood, in no particular order.

 I cover the world’s


ENZO’S (2339 Arthur Avenue; 718-733-4455). Enzo’s is one of the larger restaurants  on the avenue and has the loveliest outdoor tables nine months of the year. They do a creditable pizza you may enjoy at the bar counter, but the real draw are the pastas like potato gnocchi is a verdant pesto and the Roman rigatoni  alla carbonara made with egg and Pecorino cheese studded with crisp guanciale bacon.  Chicken alla calabrese  with sausages, onions, mushrooms and plenty of garlic is outstanding.

ls, restaurants and wine

 

ROBERTO’S (603 Crescent Avenue; 718-733-9503). Along with Zero Otto Nove (below), Roberto Paciullo owns this handsome trattoria with the most wide-ranging menu of specialties based on his native Salerno, with the best dishes listed on a blackboard menu each day like the warm shrimp with creamy cool burrata, the radiatore pasta with porcini, cherry tomatoes and breadcrumbs steamed inside tin foil (in cartoccio), a plate of tubettini with clams, octopus and fava beans.  Roberto’s makes its own desserts––the cannoli are terrific––and also has the area’s best Italian wine list.  Roberto's cannoli is a sumptuous take on a Neapolitan dessert.



ZERO OTTO NOVE (2357 Arthur Avenue; 718-220-1028), The name is the Italian city code for Naples, and the three-room interior evokes the streets of Salerno. It’s pizzas––13 varieties–– are the best on the avenue, cooked within five minutes from an oven in full sight. Fried calamari made a good starter, as does an out-of-the-ordinary dish of fava beans, artichokes and cheese, and the cacio e pepe is textbook perfect with just Pecorino and crushed black pepper. The pacing is fast and the service staff exceptionally cordial. Pork chops with vinegar peppers is one of many excellent main courses.

 



TRA DI NOI
(622 East 187th Street; 718-951-1784). Most Arthur Avenue restaurants are family owned and Chef Marco Colletti is at his little trattoria every day, coming up with specials from Abruzzo, so his is the true, freshly made spaghetti alla chitarra al’ amatriciana and orecchiete with broccoli di rabe from Puglia. His is the best osso buco in town, and if you like tripe, with tomato and Pecorino) here is where to have it.

 








MARIO’S
(3242 Arthur Avenue; 718-584-1188). For very good reasons Mario’s has been around since 1919 and has fed everyone from decades of New York Yankees to Muhammad Ali and Paul Newman. This started out as a pizzeria so they’ve had more than a century to perfect them. Luscious skewered mozzarella and bread is sauteed to a brown crust; the pasta alla siciliana is abundant with eggplant and tomato; and the chicken alla parmigiana goes way above the usual, steamy item you get elsewhere.

 





SAN GENNARO (2329 Arthur Avenue; 718-562-0129). Owner-chef Gennaro Martinelli serves the best seafood dishes on Arthur Avenue, and take his advice on the day’s specials. The fried meatballs are a delightful appetizer, as is the grilled octopus with grilled bread and salad. His unique nudi )”naked”) pasta of ricotta and fontina with chopped spinach is a must, and I can never not order his simple but perfect sole oreganata with a lemon and wine sauce.

 








ÇKA KA QÉLLU (2321 Hughes Avenue; 718-933-6194). This charming and rustic Albanian restaurant serves authentic fare with hearty flavors throughout, starting with stuffed pickled peppers and sesame baked cheese, then dishes plucked from a clay oven, including tavi kosi of lamb cooked in yogurt, and sujuk në tavë of housemade veal and beef sausage sautéed with three melted artisanal cheeses.  There is also a white bean stew called fasulë, and my favorite, mantia, beef-filled dumplings lavished with a lush cheese sauce, baked to perfection. Happily, they now have their beer and wine license.

 

ÇAKOR (632 East 186th Street; 718-733-2300). Given the number of Albanians who frequent Çakor, you can be assured that the food will be wholly authentic from the meze appetizers of feta, roasted peppers, sujuk sausage and dried meats to the stuffed pljeskavica meat patty, but the one dish you must order––for two or more––is the roast baby lamb done to such succulence as cause the meat to come away from the bone at the touch of a fork. There’s an Italian side to the menu that you need not bother with.











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THE BISON

        By John Mariani

Donald Trump, Melania, Jeffrey Epstein, Ghislaine Maxwell


       

CHAPTER ELEVEN

        “How’s sunny Palm Beach?” asked Katie over the phone. “It’s freaking freezing up here.”
       “Feels like the mid-eighties down here,” said David. “How you doing otherwise?”
       “Pretty good. Alan liked the hospital story, though he said it didn’t have quite the ‛pizzazz’ of the ones where you and I almost got killed.”
       “Pizzazz, huh? Well, anyway, things are getting pretty interesting down here.”    
    
“Do tell.”
       David told Katie all he’d heard from Rush, about Mary Windsor and Ramona Sanchez and how JP Morgan was suspected of funneling funds to Epstein.
       “It sounds like a good story to me. It’s bigger than all the sexual shenanigans going on at Epstein’s playrooms. You think you can get down here?”
       “Get me a little more to go on and I’ll pitch it to Alan. He likes dirty bank stories. Y’know, follow the money and all that.”
       “Okay, I’ve got an interview set up with Ramona down in Miami, but Rush says that Mary gal and the police chief might only speak with you on assignment.”
       “Well, give my regards to Ramona and we’ll see. I can free up some vacation time if Alan doesn’t bite. I could use some sun and surf.”     
    
“Good, and I know a place to get really good Cuban food.”

      

       Katie spoke to Alan, rather off-offhandedly, because she almost wished he’d say no to the Epstein story so that she’d be unfettered if she went to Palm Beach on her own. (Alan liked to refer to putting his writers on a leash which Katie hated.)  On the basis of experience she knew she’d be re-reimbursed if a strong story materialized.   And Alan did say, “I don’t see this as a McClure’s story yet, but you’ve proven me wrong before. You want to go on your own, keep me posted, and I’ll see what I think. Say hello to David, but I don’t see him figuring into this story.”
       Katie had heard that before, so she just shrugged and said, “All right, works for me. I’m off to buy some sun tan lotion and a big Panama hat.”
       “They’re not really made in Panama, y’know,” said Alan. “They come from Ecuador. But knock yourself out. Bring me back some rum from the duty free shop. Ron Zacapa XO if you can find it.”

   

    Ramona Sanchez lived in one of the best houses in Little Havana, the Miami Cuban neighborhood called Calle Ocho centered around Eighth Street, but she was always wary of letting strangers see it, so she asked David to meet her the Versailles, a baroque kitschy coffee shop and restaurant considered the meeting place of everyone of every stripe and class. On any given day— breakfast through dinner—tables would be taken by city, state officials and federal politicians, wheeler dealers, drug dealers, bankers, Cuban entertainers and families celebrating an event. Having opened in 1971 it had become social headquarters for the Cuban exiles, many of them professionals who would become civic leaders, doctors and lawyers. The parking lot was full of vintage American cars of the kind Havana made famous, along with pick-up trucks, Mercedes and Maseratis. It was a kind of neutral zone where the best and worst of Florida’s intertwined social strata met with no fear of conflict.


       David got there early and was seated but soon found out that upon her arrival Ramona Sanchez was treated like royalty at Versailles,  always seated at the same table, readily in view of people coming and going. It seemed that half the men in the place knew her and most of the women avoided her. As someone known for her liberal donations to local charities, she would even have an occasional priest come by to say hello and whisper a thank-you.
       One of the managers said there was a man waiting for her, and she told him to bring him to her table near the windows under a crystal chandelier. 
      
David had met brothel madams in New York—white, Black, Hispanic, Asian—who each had their own distinctive look.  Ramona, who appeared to be in her fifties, looked very much like a woman of some stature, even if had been earned through prostitution. She was of medium height even in spiked heels, but aside from opalescent blue-green eye shadow, heavy mascara on false eyelashes and long nails painted the same color as her eye shadow, she was dressed rather demurely,  in a beige linen blouse, wide brown belt and chocolate brown slacks,  all topped off with a narrow-brimmed straw hat with a striped band and large sunglasses curved around the crown. 
      
Her skin was the color of café con leche, her eyes gray-green, her neck long. Clearly she had once been a great beauty and, though once a prostitute herself, she got out before it affected her looks.
       Ramona did not smile upon taking—not shaking—David’s hand, and asking, in a smoky voice and Cuban accent, “You’re an Italian boy from the Bronx, right? I have family live up there on the Grand Concourse. Where’d you grow up?”
       “Castle Hill, pretty close to the Concourse.”
       “I don’t know it. And you used to be NYPD.”
      “Terry must have told you all about me.”
\
    “So, you want to speak to me about Jeffrey Epstein? He’s a very nasty man, which can be good in my business, but he goes too far and I keep away from him, especially now with the police  after him.

    “So, you want to speak to me about Jeffrey Epstein? He’s a very nasty man, which can be good in my business, but he goes too far and I keep away from him, especially now with the police  after him. If he were smart, he’d go to some island in the Caribbean not owned by the U.S. and stay there with his millions and that perra of his.”
      
“You mean Ghislaine Maxwell?”
      
“You meet her?”
      
“No, but my colleague who is a reporter has.”
      
“Don’t believe a word the bitch says. Ever since she lost her papa’s money, she’s been tied to Jeffrey with, what do you call them? Esposas dorados?”
    “Golden handcuffs.”
    “Let’s order. I have only an hour .”
      
Ramona nodded to a waiter standing six feet away and told him, “Tendré mu habitual.” David asked the waiter for a menu, but she waved him away.
      
“Have what I’m having,,” said Ramona. “The Cuban pork. Best thing on the menú. You want beer?”
      
David said, “If you’re having one?”
      
“No, I only drink caipiriñhas. Not Cuban, but it’s been my drink forever. One for lunch, two for dinner.”
      
“So,” David began, “our mutual friend Terry Rush said you’d know what goes on in Epstein’s hacienda.”
      
Ramona arched her eyebrows. “Una hacienda? That’s not a hacienda! It’s uno agujero del infierno. A hell hole.   Jeffry is not stupid but he has never been able to buy a penny of class.”
      
David found this ironic coming from a retired madam.
      
“Jeffrey is basically like me,” she said. “He provides people with special pleasures. But he doesn’t do it for the money. I only did it for the money. He gets his money from that Victoria’s Secret guy.”
      
“Wexner.”    
      
“Si.  Jeffrey’s only interested in having power over all the grande honchos he invites.  So he hooks up the politicians and powerbrokers with young girls who look like models, and the men are very grateful. Is like going to a Playboy Club without paying. And when they meet other guys like themselves who have strong connections to Washington and world capitals, like Bill Clinton and Prince Andrew, they become like a secret society, you know?”
      
“What do you mean?” asked David.
      
“Once they spot each other at Jeffrey’s parties and know what’s going on, it’s in their interest to keep their mouths shut but also to make them into amigos they can work with because they know those guys don’t want anybody to know what goes on there.  Todos mantienen las bocas cerrada. They keep their mouths shut.”
      
“And what was your role in these parties?”
      
“I provided a lot of the girls, who are the best looking and the best at what they do. Most of the guests don’t even know they’re call girls. They think, or convince themselves to think, these are just beautiful girls up from Miami. Jeffrey and Giselle learn all their names, which are always fake, and personally introduce them to the men. Of course, Jeffrey also flies in some girls,  but I wanted nothing to do with that.”
      
“Why not?”
      
The drinks and Cuban pork arrived at the same moment, and Ramona toasted, “To capital enterprise!”                 David clinked and asked again, “So, why didn’t you want anything to do with the girls Epstein flies in?”
      
Ramona took another sip  of her ice-cold caipriñha, patted her lips and narrowed her eyes.
      
“Because these girls are so young. Not legal age.”
      
“And you didn’t want to risk being arrested for that kind of trade?”
      
Ramona laughed and shrugged. “Me? I never had any trouble with cops, here, Palm Beach, anywhere. They know my girls they are clean, there’s no drugs and I spread a little money around. They don’t go around busting into powerful men’s mansions to round up their friends, who are probably going to include some of their own police captains.”
      
“Sounds a lot like New York.”
      
Ramona finished her drink in one gulp and said, “Let me tell you something, Bronx boy. I started out as a puta when I was sixteen with a local pimp who treated the youngest ones very badly. Paid the least, even though men paid the most for the underage girls. When I got out and opened my own house I swore it would be all legit and strictly high class. No street walkers. My girls  could push those skinny Victoria’s Secret models  from Brazil and Europe right off the runway. As a matter of fact, some have become New York models, on every fashion cover.
      
“I’m not going to tell you all pimps and madams have any sense of honor or morality. Crée me, whores don’t have hearts of gold, they have bank accounts.  But after what I went through as a teenager, I would never put girls through that. Jeffrey, he  ask me all the time to get some of those girls. ‛Ramona,’ he  say, ‛what I want are some of those Catholic high school girls who look like they’ve never been kissed.’ I refused. I always refused, no matter how much money he’d pay.”
      
“I’ve been told that Jeffrey himself likes very young girls,” said David.
      
Ramona almost spat. “That’s all Jeffrey wants. Younger and younger. Pervadito. It’s the only way he can get it up. Ghislaine, he lost interest in her sex years ago. Now she acts as his personal pimp. She promises these girls a glamorous weekend, all first class, then flies them down here and pretends to be their friend. And Jeffrey can charm them with all the luxury, the big room and the gifts, and Ghislaine asks them to just give him a little massage. Those girls go home in tears, but they say nothing to their parents. Ghislaine, is going to get caught someday, too.”
      
Ramona had only finished a few bites of her food, but she glanced at her Rolex watch—David knew it from busting drug dealers in New York and also knew it cost in excess of ten thousand dollars—and said, “I have to go. You need to reach me, call Terry.”
      
She shuffled from the table, gave a tip to the manager, nodded in David’s direction and was gone. The waiter brought the check to David, who saw no reason to waste the rest of his Cuban pork, ordered another beer and kept eating.

      

 

NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER


                                                         
NEW LIQUORS FROM ALL OVER

                          By John Mariani

                                                     

       The world may be drinking less liquor but it hasn’t stop producers from bringing out new releases that aim to distinguish themselves from the tried-and-true. The very notion that there are still novel ways to make Scotch or Irish or Bourbon or Rye more distinctive than competitors make those of us who still appreciate the fineness of good whiskey, it’s a challenge just to keep up.  Here are some I’ve been delighted with.

 

 

Kilbeggan ($24). This is currently my new “old” favorite (and at a remarkable price) for it dates back to 1757 (now owned by Cooley). It’s double distilled and quite smooth with a balance of sweetness, dryness, nutty flavors and a light bite at the end at 40% alcohol. The Triple Cask ($30) is very fine; the Small Batch ($45 ) has a unique blend of rye; the Single Pot Still ($35) claims to be distilled in “the oldest working whiskey pot still in the world.”

 

 


The Busker Single Pot Still Small Batch  ($40). This is Busker’s first small batch Irish whiskey, tripled distilled, using non-chill filtration to maintain the essential flavors then double aged and matured in first-fill bourbon casks, then finished in Oloroso sherry European oak butts at 46.3% alcohol at its Royal Oak Distillery. They also make a Single Grain matured in bourbon casks and Marsala barrels from Sicily, emerging at 43.3%




 

Drumshanbo Tawny Port Single Pot Still ($80). Here’s a seven-year-old Irish triple distilled with malted native barley, and unmalted barley and Irish Barra oats. It matures in Tawny Port casks, in the  bottle at 43%, and shows a Sherry underpinning along with creaminess from the oats and lots of dried fruits and a touch of cocoa. A lovely whiskey to enjoy with Stilton cheese.

 



The Muff Irish Whiskey  ($35) A third new Irish whiskey, this from Muff in County Donegal, founded  by Laura Bonner in 2018, and quite a peaty one,  made with a five part blend of oat-matured malt and double distilled malt, bourbon-cask grain whiskey, with 43% alcohol. A shaggy Russell Crow did a video for the brand.




FUJI Japanese Whisky
 ($70). Japanese whiskeys across the board get better and better all the time, and Fuji-Gotemba, whose distillery sits in the shadow of Mr. Fuji, makes three applaudable liquors: a single grain based on three different styles of grains;  a 100% malted barley of real distinction and lovely sweet element; and a single blended Japanese whiskey. Their site says Fuji believes that kami wa saibu ni yadoro, which means (more or less)  god is in the details. Well, bless their hearts.



Stauning Danish Rye Whisky ($69). This is a Danish product made from a new distillery, since 2005, from rye and barley “grown a bicycle ride away from the distillery” on the West Coast of Denmark. It is all malted at th distillery and then  double distilled in small direct-fired copper pot stills and matured in virgin American white oak barrels. There is a scent of rye in it and a little saline edge from the sea. Delicious with roast chestnuts.

 

 

Lasso Motel American Straight Whiskey 18-Year Whiskey ($80). Aged for 18 years in used bourbon barrels––about twice as long as usual––this Indiana-made it “nods to the Texas roots of the Belmont Hotel—a Dallas icon with a rugged spirit, evoking the allure of LA’s famed Château Marmont.” Quite a leap. Furthermore, Lasso says this is a whiskey to capture “the spirit of an era fueled by rock and roll, rebellion, and unapologetic creativity.” Whatever. It has a wallop, at 60.5% alcohol, made from 99% corn and 1% malted barley.

 

 

 

 

 

 





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HOPE HE USED FREQUENT FLYER MILES

'Would You Wait 8 Hours for This Waffle? I Flew West to Get On Line."––Matthew Schneier, New York (Feb 2026).




   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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