MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

MARCH 29,  2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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MILAN, Part Two


NEW YORK CORNER
PAOLA'S OSTERIA

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  FIFTEEN

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
MICHEL ROLLAND, WINE CONSULANT, DIES AT 78
By John Mariani



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MILAN, Part Two
By John Mariani

 


    The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is set between the sacred (Il Duomo) and the profane (La Scala) and has never been more scrubbed to show off its magnificence, which includes the legendary Savini Milano 1867, here since 1884, that has hosted everyone from Giuseppe Verdi and Giacomo Puccini to Maris Callas and Frank Sinatra. Taken over in 2008 by the Gatto family, everything has been refreshed and the food, once dated, is now very good––you must have the spaghetti in a duck ragù with autumn’s white truffles. Young chef Mario Massa offers a five-course meal at €160 as well à la carte, including risotto with chestnuts, snails and bergamot; San Pietro fish in casserole; and a date pudding with mascarpone, caramel and orange.


 

When it opened in 1962 Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia  (Via Privata Raimondo Montecuccoli, 6 ) was quite in the forefront of the la nuova cucina movement, and, though the food is now not so experimental it is better than ever, and the colors and presentations of everything in  the room are dazzling. Stefania  Moroni, daughter of Aimo and Nadia, together with chefs Alessandro Negrini and Fabio Pisani now create unusual dishes like scampi with hot chili pepper, lard and almonds; sweetbreads with rosemary; and  crustaceans, roasted carrots, and cardamom in a French Charon sauce and squab are among so many sumptuous dishes. The cordiality and handsome looks of the dining room are exquisite reminders of elaborate Milanese design. The cost is high but this is a special occasion spot.

 

I was very saddened to hear of the passing of the owner of Al Matarel (Via L.S. Mantegazza 2), Giobatta Comini, in 2015, but this darling trattoria  thrives under the stewardship of his wife Elide, who has always been the force  in the kitchen. The premises are cozy, with a huge fantastical mural. The specials are always wonderful, like the rustin n'ga,  a succulent layering of of pink veal and roast potatoes cooked together. There is also osso buco with saffron-scented risotto––one of the best of this prototypical Milanese dish in the city. Also a plate of tender ribbons of pasta glossed with just butter and parmigiano is simple and perfect. For dessert, the dense chocolate cake will bring you to tears after a meal so satisfying, so honest, so perfect.

 


Paper Moon (Via Bagutta, 1). Located smack within the fashion district, Paper Moon may not have invented the thin-crust pizza, though maybe they did. In any case this is a very chic  restaurant as well as a place everyone goes for 13 varieties of pizza, along with  potato gnocchi lavished with Gorgonzola, and  risotto, simply cooked with butter and parmigiano. Pio Galignani and his wife, Enrica Del Rosso opened Paper Moon (named after an American movie with Ryan and Tatum O’Neal) in 1977, decked out in cool white, black and beige, with reed table mats and wicker chairs, roses everywhere and an array of Italian and international movie star photos you'll recognize.

 

 Milan has so many homey, family-run trattorias throughout the vast city, and one of the best near the Brera art musuem is Rovello 18 (Via Tivoli 2). It’s been here since 1950, now run by the third generation of the de Liguoro family.  Downstairs is small, cozy room, upstairs a slightly more spacious one, with beamed ceilings, modern Italian art, a wine cabinet, white tablecloths, Murano glassware and very good lighting throughout. Prices are remarkably modest. You might begin with artichokes with a creamy fonduta that had been browned on the top with hazelnuts, then move on to a risotto laced with strong taleggio cheese or  spaghetti alla chitarra  with hot chili peppers, puntarelle greens and guanciale ham.

 









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NEW YORK CORNER



PAOLA'S OSTERIA
1246 Madison Avenue
212-923-5820

By John Mariani


Pappadelle with boar ragù


 

        Manhattan’s Upper East Side has never lacked for good Italian restaurants, with a long legacy of excellence exemplified in the past by Parioli Romanissimo, Il Monello, Il Nido, Coco Pazzo, Sandro’s and others. One of the mainstays has been Paola’s, which dates back more than three decades, now in its present location in Carnegie Hill for the past seven, under the ownership of Fabrizio di Mitri and Armand Alicka.  So it’s a good place to know about if you’re visiting the Guggenheim or Metropolitan Museum of Art.

    It's a smart but comfortable dining room, rather loud until 8:30 o’clock but fine after that. The patterned ceilings are timbered, the floors black-and-white tiles, the chairs bentwood, the tables uncovered but with mats, with a mirror on one wall that expands the space a cross from the bar.

Paola’s clientele is very local and very devoted, and the place draws a good number of New York- and foreign based celebrities that has included Scarlett Johanssen, Robert DeNiro and Paul McCartney.

    The wine is 200 labels strong, with a cellar—and a very lovely cellar it is for private dining—holding about 3,000 bottles. Prices have fair-minded mark-ups, with most whites under $100.

    Like so many trattorias these days, Paola’s serves pizzas––11 of them––done in the soft-crust Neapolitan style––ranging from $26 to $34.

    I shared an antipasto misto with a friend, but it would certainly serve more, composed of a selection of Italian sausages, prosciutto, cheese, olives, truffle, honey and nuts. Supplì di granchio are crabcakes with a creamy red pepper sauce.

    There are eight housemade pastas on the menu and I was able to try four, in smaller portions, every one cooked to the perfect firmness, beginning with a rich version of cacio e pepe made with tonnarelli,  and pasta once fashionable but rarely made anymore––paglia e fieno, which means “straw and hay,” referring to its two colors of tagliolini, one white, the other spinach green, done in a light cream sauce with mushrooms (right). The tagliatelle alla bolognese was a classic mix of beef and pork and not too much tomato, while the heartiest was wide pappardelle with a wild boar ragù (left). As main courses these run from $30-$48.

    There are no surprises among the entrees, from chicken with lemon and very good mashed potatoes to saltimbocca alla romana, and a massive veal chop, either gilled or flattened, alla milanese.

    Expertly cooked and de-boned, drizzled with golden olive oil, was a branzino with spring’s string beans and purple potatoes. Scallopine of veal alla Marsala was a dated dish in an all-purpose brown sauce that had little flavor of the Marsala and only white mushrooms.

    For dessert they serve homemade cannoli along with the usual tiramisù, though you may opt for a Nutella lavished pizza. They also offer six different artisanal gelatos

    There is a good deal to be said for the tried-and-true when the emphasis is on the true, which Paola’s does very well for guests who expect their favorite dishes to be on the menu and always taste the way they like it. As Aristotle once noted, “We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is a habit.” After 26 years at Paola’s, Chef Nelson Guaman has certainly mastered that habit to a turn.

 

 

Paola’s Osteria is open for lunch and dinner daily.

 

 




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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



CHAPTER FIFTEEN

       Sanchez called that evening while Katie and David were relaxing by the pool at their hotel. She said that Susannah would see them the next day, Sunday, after Mass at St. Edward on North County Road.
 
      
“I guess she’s a good Catholic, too,” said David.
       
“God works in mysterious ways. ‛Let he who is without sin cast the first stone.’ Care to come along?”

         David made a face and shook his head. “I’m just going to zone out at the beach. Catch some rays. Drink a bloody Mary and eat guacamole. I’ll meet you later.”
         The next morning Katie took the car to the Church of St. Edward, done in a Spanish mission style Katie thought resembled the Alamo. The pews were about half full of the usual complement of older women with rosaries, younger women who were praying intently for some minor miracle and young children in tow. All the women wore hats or shawls over their hair. The priest said the Mass in English but gave his sermon in Spanish, speaking on the need for his parishioners to contribute to the church’s annual fund raising event to repair the roof.
         Katie spotted Susannah in the rear of the church but decided to leave her alone during the Mass.
         When the Mass ended, Katie blessed herself, and walked out to find Susannah waiting for the priest to come out and meet parishioners. She was dressed in a skirt to her knees and blouse with long sleeves, her hair tied with a scarf.  She wore no make-up.
         The priest came out and began speaking with the parishioners, mostly in Spanish, then seeing Susannah, took her hands and said, “Ah, Haley, thank you so much for the gift from you and your friends. It is very much appreciated.”
         Katie thought, “So her real name must be Haley and she confides that to her priest.”
         Susannah saw Katie and came over to her, smiling like a schoolgirl, and said, “I know a café where we won’t be bothered.”
        The two women drove off to Washington Avenue—Susannah drove a white Acura—and parked across from the Cortadito Coffee House, which had a good complement of Cubans. Susannah ordered a café con leche and a pastelito pastry filled with cream cheese and guava, and Katie took her lead.
         Katie was not going to mention about Susannah’s real name, unless she was willing to give it to her. At first they just indulged in small talk about the beautiful weather, rain coming in that afternoon and where Katie had been eating. Susannah said she’d give her a list of good places to try.
         “So, the man I met, this David, he’s an ex-cop?” asked Susannah.
         Katie explained David’s presence and role in their investigation, which was zeroing in on the charges of sex trafficking.
         “It’s absolutely true,” said Susannah. “I was one of the girls he trafficked. It’s been going on for years, but Madam Sanchez wanted nothing to do with it. She was the one who got me out of Epstein’s clutches.”
         “Well, how did he get hold of you?”
         “Jeremy himself is never involved. It’s Ghislaine who finds the girls and entices them. Me and a girlfriend—I’m from Gary, Indiana—were down in Palm Beach for like a long weekend, and we were at the pool at our hotel when Ghislaine came up to us. She’s very charming and has that like nice little British accent. Seemed so nice, tries to act like a sister. So, we start talking and she tells us Jeremy’s having this party at his big mansion and like there’d be a lot of important people there, some celebrities, and we really should come. For two girls from Indiana, that’s like quite a proposition. Then she clinched it by saying, ‛You girls are so pretty. Have you ever thought of modeling?’ Which we hadn’t. I once won homecoming queen but that’s as far as that went.”
         “So you agreed to go.”
         “Not only that, she took us to a boutique where she knew the owner and told us to pick out some new clothes—with her guiding us to some very sexy party clothes. I don’t know what they cost, but they were like real expensive. We found out just how much while we were trying them on and looked at the tags. Then Ghislaine just piled them on the counter, whipped out her credit card and told her friend to wrap them up. Then she said she’d send a car to pick us up at five, which turned out to be a limo. My first time in one of those, and there was an open bottle of Champagne in the back. I didn’t even drink, but I tasted it and liked it.”
         “What was your friend’s name?” asked Katie.
         “That doesn’t matter now, does it? She’s back in Gary, I guess.”
         “So what happened when you got to Epstein’s house?”
         “Well, we thought five was like a little early for a party, but what did we know? When we got there, Jeffrey, who is a nice-looking guy, came out all smiles, welcoming us, telling us to just relax because no one was getting to the party till nine. He was dressed in shorts or maybe a bathing suit with like a robe over it. He and Ghislaine sat on this huge sectional couch in this huge room by the swimming pool. They’re like asking us like a million questions as if we were the most important people in the room, then after a while, Ghislaine says, ‛Jeffrey, wouldn’t these girls make great models? They’re so young and so fresh.' And Jeremy says, ‛And so WASPy.’ I didn’t even know what that meant at the time. Apparently white girls with blonde hair and blue eyes were rare among local models.”
         “So what happened next?”
         “By then it was after six and Jeffrey excused himself, said he was going to lie down, and Ghislaine says, ‛Jeffrey’s got these terrible knots in his back muscles. He’s got to lie down and usually he has a masseuse come over but he couldn’t find one today and he’s going to be a mess this evening at the party.’ She then asks us if we could possibly help by just, y’know, rubbing his back muscles for a few minutes.”
         “That didn’t seem way out of the ordinary?”
         “My friend did, but I was, like, I guess a little in awe of the whole set-up, and I said, sure, I’d give him a little rub down for a minute. So Ghislaine leads me into this darkened little red room and there’s Jeffrey naked on his stomach with a towel over his rear end.”
         “And what did he and Ghislaine tell you to do?”
         “Ghislaine left the room, saying, ‛I’ll let you two be together,’ closes the door and Jeffrey tells me where I should massage his muscles. So, do I have to tell you what happened then?”
         “I’ve got a pretty good idea,” said Katie.
         “I mean I had like some hand-job episodes with boys back in Gary, but that was mostly playing around. I was scared of what was going on in that room, but Jeffrey wasn’t aggressive about it, so I did it and that was that.”
         “And what happened afterwards?”
         “Jeffrey just laid there. Ghislaine knocked, cracked open the door and said something like ‛You wanna freshen up before the party?’ like nothing had occurred. She showed me to this big bedroom, where my friend was waiting and asking me what happened. I told her I’d tell her later, then I took a long hot shower and took a nap.”
         “So how was the party?” asked Katie.
         “Unlike  any I’ve ever been to. Not a whole lot of people, almost all men acting way younger than their age, and about an equal number of beautiful girls; most of them looked Cuban.”
         “Were any as young as you and your friend?”
         “No, not that I could tell. So, we were feeling real out of place but Ghislaine came over, like I said before, acting like our sister, and said she wanted to introduce us to this guy or that guy. And Jeffrey was standing around putting his arm around the guys and the girls, with a photographer taking pictures of everyone.”
         “Did you see anybody famous at the party?”
         “I don’t read the papers, just like People magazine, and there weren’t any of those kind of celebrities there. Mostly older men who looked like they were from up north, ‘cause nobody had a tan but the girls.”
         “So what went on?”
         “There was a lot of Champagne passed around, and I drank a glass, maybe more, and like everybody’s being friendly, the way guys always are before they put the moves on you. And Jeffrey introduces me to this one guy, like maybe in his thirties, saying he’s the head of a big modeling agency in New York. Right away the guy—he said his name but I forgot it—starts flattering me and saying I like really had a great look and he’d like to see what I looked like alone. Jeffrey showed us to this room off to the side, he closes the door and the guy like tells me to strip. Just like that. I said no way was I going to take my clothes off and then  he pushes me on the couch.”
         Susannah stopped talking.
         “What happened then, Susannah?”
         She looked intensely into Katie’s eyes and said, “What do think? The little prick raped me. And when he’s finished he says he wanted to see me in New York. He’d fly me up there and all this bullshit.”
         “What did you say?”
         “I just wanted to put my clothes on and get out of there. I head for the door and he says, ‛See you again soon.’ And when I got out of the room, Ghislaine was like still standing there, smiling that smile, and noticing I was tearing up. She takes me into the kitchen, gives me a Kleenex and asks what happened. I told her, and she says, like, ‛What did you expect?’ Like nothing had happened! I said I just wanted to go back to my hotel—my friend had already left—and she put an envelope in my hand with money in it, saying, ‛I wouldn’t tell anyone about this. At your age it wouldn’t be a smart idea. You’re in a lot of the photos taken tonight,’ then says she’ll take me to my room and that I could leave in the morning.”
         “Then?”
         “I dropped my clothes  bags and looked into the envelope. There was like  two thousand dollars in there. I fell asleep fast, and when I woke up Ghislaine was in the kitchen with Jeffrey, dressed in his shorts. He says, ‛Well, well, you sure made an impression on” whatever his name was and ‛he wants to shoot some photos of you before you go home. He said he could get you work fast because you’ve got a special look and you’re so young.”
         “And that’s how it started.”
         “That’s how it started,” said Susannah. “I never did go home. I never did get to go to New York. Ghislaine said I could like stay at the house for as long as I wanted and swore that what had happened the night before would never happen again. But by then, I knew I could make the kind of money I could only dream of back home. So I stayed awhile.”
         “How long?”
         “I don’t know. Like four or five months maybe. Then I turned eighteen, and it was like Jeffrey didn’t want me around anymore. That’s when I met Madam Sanchez, who took me in but didn’t want to use me as one of her girls. But a few weeks later I was like out of money, so I started working for Vargas. And here we are.”
         Katie sighed, knowing any show of sympathy would ring false. Instead she asked, “During the time you were at Jeffrey’s did you see any other underage girls at parties?”
         “All the time. Like every week, unless Jeffrey and Ghislaine were in the Caribbean or New York or wherever. Otherwise the girls came and went.”
         “Did you ever speak to any of them? Warn them?”
         Susanna rubbed the back of her neck. “Whores don’t do that. Maybe I felt guilty or maybe I felt like a sense of satisfaction  that I wasn’t the only one they’d corrupted.  I don’t know. I stayed away from them.”
         She paused, then said, “Wait, there is one. Her name was Virginia Roberts (right). Maybe that was a fake name, but I remember  when she arrived at one of the parties, she was like seventeen, lived right here in town, blond, blues eyes, the usual type, and Jeremy hooked her up with this English prince.”
         “Was that Prince Andrew?”
         “I don’t know. Is he like related to the Queen?

         “He sure is,” said Katie. “He’s her son.”
         “Well, that must have been him, because I know what the other one looks like, the one who was married to Princess Diana? That was really sad what happened to her.”
         “Know anything more about this Roberts girl?” asked Katie.
         “Ghislaine told me she went to London with her and to Jeremy’s place in the Virgin Islands.”
         “And seeing Andrew there?”
         “Yeah, she even bragged about being in the Queen’s castle.”
         “Do you know where she is now?”
         “Not a clue.  Maybe your cop friend can track her down.”
         “Maybe so.”
        With that Susannah said, “I hope you get to expose all this bullshit, Katie. I’ll be the first in line to testify, but, nobody’s going to put a working girl in front of a jury. Jeffrey’s lawyers would rip me to pieces.”
         “Have you thought of getting out of . . . what you do?”
         “All the time. I’m not like hopped up on drugs like a lot of the girls. Never did crack, no track marks on my lily white arms. But it’s the life I’ve led now for a long time, like three, four years, and Vargas is not so bad. He knows I’m one his best girls, best paid girls. The problem is, what do I do if I get out? Like where am I going to make the kind of money I do now? What, go home and start college? Work as a nurse’s aide? You  ever been to Gary? It’s not that easy a decision, Katie.”
         “No, I guess it isn’t.” Katie picked up the check and thanked Susannah, wanting to say, “You take care, Haley,” but stopped herself.
            Susannah said, “Y’know, Jeffrey’s very, very well connected. He even threatened me—and like, I’m nobody—if I ever told anyone anything. He’s got a lot of power in Palm Beach and a shitload of money. Watch your back, Katie.”
            With that she waved goodbye, got into her Acura, honked twice and drove off towards the mainland.

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024







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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR





MICHEL ROLLAND, WINE CONSULTANT, DIES AT 78
By John Mariani


 

        Controversial international wine consultant––a job he largely created in the industry––Michel Roland died this week at his home in Bordeaux, France, at the age of 78 from a heart attack. In his position as advisor to wineries around the world, he spent a good deal of his time traveling, always first class, from Napa Valley to Chile and Australia, hired by estate owners who sought to get the best from their vineyards’ terroir.

    Often his advice was crafted to produce big, bold fruity wines with alcohol levels in excess of 14% of a kind that won awards and high ratings numbers from media like Robert J. Parker’s influential Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator that consistently favored young red wines that had not yet matured.

Known for having a highly sensitive connoisseur’s palate, capable of tasting a grape or a wine to find its virtues and deficiencies, Rolland sought to puzzle out how to maximize a vineyard’s soil  and climate.

    His clients included already well-established and esteemed estates like Bordeaux’s Château Figeac and La Conseillante; California wineries Harlan Estate and Screaming Eagle; and Ornellaia in Tuscany. Often these wines went on to win top awards and 95+ points from the wine media.

    Yet criticism within the wine world were legion, with accusations that Rolland’s advice––long hang time of grapes, over-ripeness, low acid and early release––made his clients’ wines taste very similar, in an international style preferred back in the 1990s that favored fruit and body. He would often recommend a process called micro-oxygenation by which small amounts of oxygen are added to a wine to simulate the effects of barrel-aging and lower production costs by reducing oak barrel requirements.

    A 2004 documentary entitled “Mondovino,” a 2004 by Jonathan Nossiter argued that Rolland had diverted from the traditions of local wine cultures in favor of homogeneity.

    Michel Noël Rolland was born on Dec. 24, 1947, in Libourne, France, and grew up at Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol, which his parents, Serge and Geneviève Rolland, managed. He went on to study oenology at the University of Bordeaux, where he met his wife-to-be, Dany Bleynie (below), a medical student, with whom he bought Laboratoire Rolland in 1976 where they would analyze wines submitted by wineries. In 1979, after Mr. Rolland’s father died, he took over Le Bon Pasteur, spending his time investigating vineyards while his wife stayed in the testing lab.

    As of the 1980s he had established his reputation as a wine fixer, and made no bones about the fact that he helped wineries produce the style of wines they wanted. “Wine is a business,” he said in 2006. “They want to make wine to sell wine. In the U.S. they are honest enough to tell you they want good ratings. They don’t want loser wines.”

    Tastes began to shift in the 21st century as more nations produced better wines and offered more variety. Big trophy wines never lost their appeal among rich connoisseurs,but less massive red wines offered more choice at lower prices. The Rollands sold their laboratory in 2020, though he still consulted with clients around the world.

    I never met Michel Rolland, nor do I have the oenological expertise to debate his methodology. But I am on the side of those who find the massive, albeit award-winning style that Rolland both championed and was paid handsomely to produce out of balance and often flabby. His importance could hardly be overestimated in the last century, but his  future legacy is now in flux.

    Rolland is survived by his wife and their children, Stéphanie and Marie Rolland; five grandchildren; and a brother, Jean-Daniel Rolland.

 


 





  






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RESTAURANT NAMES OF
QUESTIONABLE TASTE

Make My Fish & Juice, Yonkers, NY











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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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