Virtual Gourmet

  February 25, 2024                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 


Ward Bond, John Wayne and Dorothy Jordan in "The Searchers" (1959)




By John Mariani


By John Mariani


By John Mariani


By John Mariani



By John Mariani



        From February 29 to March 13 Christie’s Paris is showing the personal collection of Colin Peter Field, the former barman of the renowned Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris. Auction estimates range from €100 to €1,200.
         Over three decades of Bar Hemingway’s existence in the rear of the Ritz, Field acquired a cache of historic objects related to the Nobel Prize-winning American author, many of which were hung or set in the bar, including a stag’s head (€400-€600); a buffalo head (€300-€500); a pair of boxing gloves (€700-1,000), commemorating significant fights; framed fishing flies, including two that belonged to Jack Hemingway, the writer's son (€300-€500), and rods (€400-€600); and four antique typewriters— two of them a gift from the bar’s habitue and Field’s friend Kate Moss— of the kind Hemingway used to write his short stories and novels on. Field would invite guests to write letters on them.
         The items also include Field’s own unique tools and cocktail shakers  of a kind he’d use to make a Hemingway Bloody Mary and daiquiri—one round and egg-shaped (from €500 to €1,000 ), a champagne cork box (€100-€150), six Puiforcat glasses engraved “Colin Field and Hemingway Bar” (€600-€800), and a very rare copy of The Cocktails of the Ritz Paris by Field (€100-€150).
       Fields was crowned “the world’s best bartender” by Forbes magazine, the London Times called him “legendary,” and he
was the first bartender to be included in France’s Who’s Who in 2011.
         Hemingway claimed to “liberate” The Ritz on August 25, 1944, but there was no bar then for him to frequent. After the war, the space was called Le Petit Bar, whose clientele included Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman, JFK, Noël Coward and Truman Capote. The bar was closed in the 1970, but re-opened as
the Hemingway Bar on August 25, 1944, to coincide with the 1945 liberation of the city. Field, born in England and fluent in French, took the job as barman and helped attract an international clientele to the small, wood-lined watering hole on the Rue Cambon.
         Two years ago Field, then 62, left The Ritz for a life that didn’t keep him up until two in the morning, now consulting and doing events like a fashion event at the Palais Galliera, Monaco yacht week and Formula 1. Eventually he plans to open a guesthouse outside of Paris. He now lives outside of Paris in a country house, from which plans events.
         I interviewed Field about the upcoming auction.


Did you acquire all the auction objects yourself , or were they bought by The Ritz for the bar?

The objects in the Hemingway Bar were all bought or acquired by
myself. I did not have a decoration budget. Indeed, the hotel never thought that the bar would work and expected it to close in six months or less. That was in 1994. So, I listened to the guests' comments and sort of garnished the walls, with their advice. I would spend my trips going to antique fairs and getting the right stuff. There were also gifts from friends, hunting pals, journalists, etc.

So, you own them all. Did you contact Christie’s or vice-versa?

Christie’s have known about the objects for quite some time. They know me and visited the bar on several occasions to see me and the objects. The original Le Petit Bar opened in 1923. It was a small room without a bar counter situated opposite the main bar, which did not serve ladies. Bertin, the bartender, started at Le Petit in 1926 when a counter was installed. Hemingway came to the Ritz around 1926 first with Scott Fitzgerald. They were there to see an old friend of Fitzgerald, the Count Von Blixen. Hemingway knew him and his wife Karen from a New York-to-France crossing on the Leopoldina and wanted to say hello. He’d also come to the bar to read the racing turf newspapers on the tables, which are still in the bar. He would take the bartenders bets and then go to Vincennes to place them. He first came to the Le Petit Bar and got to know Bertin, whom I spent many hours with personally. 

Were you the Hemingway Bar’s first bartender?

No. I was going to write another book about Frank Meier, the first head bartender. But the more I knew about his real life, the more I thought that it was better kept secret. Hemingway said 'It’s easy to write a book. You just sit in front of a typewriter and ... BLEED.” I will let someone else do the bleeding.

You never met Ernest but you have spoken with others of the Hemingway family?

I enjoyed spending time with [son] Jack Hemingway from 1994 to his demise in December 2000, if my memory is correct. We would talk and talk about shooting and hunting, and I would try to invite him to my shooting club just outside of Paris. Jack didn't have a French hunting license, so the hunt was out of the question. But he was always so, so busy.

What about Hemingway’s acquaintances? 

An amazing amount of people would come to the bar to tell me about Hem. Perhaps they knew him personally. Sometimes it could be Jack's granddaughter or fishing acquaintances; once it was [son] Gregory Hemingway’s wife. She was very charming and we talked frankly, no holds barred, about Gregory. I could go on forever.

Why did model Kate Moss give you two typewriters?

The hotel never wanted me to go to Kate’s house to make cocktails for her. They wanted Kate to come to the Ritz. But I had known her for so long that I really wanted to do it. It wasn't professional, it was just friends. But they said, "No." So, that was that. Orders are orders in the Ritz. In the night following the encounter, Hemingway's ghost must have played a role. Forbes digital, written by Charles Dubow, came out with an article about me being the world’s best bartender! So,  I was called back to the hotel. Congratulations and a "what would you like?" With the possibility of a pay increase floating in the room, I opted rather for the hotel letting me go to Kate's house and do her cocktail! Kate knew that I was always looking for typewriters to garnish the bar. She was and is a lovely person and at the end of the day offered me a superb typewriter, which she did on another occasion too.

Were any of  the items actually owned by Hemingway? 

None of the objects was owned by Hemingway. Although there is a mixing glass, owned by Bertin at the time, which was used to make Martinis for Hemingway. Bertin gave it to me in 1995. I once asked Jack if he had anything from his Dad, even a sock. He replied that he had absolutely nothing.




                                                                                       610 Hartsdale Road

                                                                                         White Plains, NY


      Sliced porterhouse with creamed spinach


      Ive been asked why I bother to review so many high-end steakhouses when, ignoramuses contend, that they are all the same.  First of all, in all of last year I reviewed only three steakhouses, and, second, they are as similar as the way one NFL team is with another, since they all play the same game by the same rules, and, except for colors, all wear the same uniforms. The fact is, steakhouse menus are as similar as French bistros are, or Italian-American restaurants.
Once upon a time, New York steakhouse décor was of a cookie-cutter sameness—ocher walls, wood floors, wainscoting and ugly flea market paintings as at Spark’s, Peter Luger and Smith & Wollensky. But for more than two decades now, many steakhouse decors differ radically, as is evident from Wolfgang’s gorgeous arched ceilings tiled by Rafael Guastavino, (who also did Ellis Island and Grand Central’s Oyster Bar), the grandeur of Porter House overlooking Central Park and the historic two-levels of Benjamin in the Chemist Club, whose owners Benjamin Prelvukaj and Ben Sinanaj opened a branch in Westchester County that is exemplary in its use of dark wood, wine walls, a fireplace, French doors and beautifully lighted party rooms and a leafy outdoor space. The dining rooms can get loud (but not because of any intrusive music) but there are corners and tables where the din is not so high.
There is a spacious bar and dining rooms with well-separated tables, candles on linen-topped tables and roomy black leather chairs and brown banquettes. Beautiful, gleaming steak knives are requisite. Plates are warmed before platters arrive. A bountiful bread basket is presented. Wineglasses are thin and varied, depending on the type of wine you order, and the wine list, by Victor Dedushaj ,with more than 1,000 selections itself is larger than even the New York Benjamin’s. Cocktails are well made with a good selection of spirits.
         Add to this a cordiality at the host station and throughout the evening by a staff largely of former Eastern Europeans and an ideal timing and pacing during the meal, and you have the kind of restaurant that makes a sham of those hyper-masculine steakhouses you too often find elsewhere.
     The menu doesn’t stray from the classics, beginning with a fine French onion soup thick with browned Gruyère ($14.95) and a well-cut tuna tartare with a good bite of pepper at the end ($27.95). The four grilled jumbo shrimp are meaty and sweet with butter, while the lobster bisque tastes richly of the crustacean with just the right amount of creaminess and seasonings ($27.95). Order the slab of thick, crisp but juicy Canadian bacon ($9.95) and you’ll find one piece readily serves two (right).
         I recommend a table of four have one of the generous salads, either the wedge with dried Canadian bacon, cherry tomatoes and blue cheese dressing ($19.95) or the outstanding signature Benjamin salad ($27.95 for two), made with two greens, red onion, apple and a good amount of lump crabmeat.
         There are eight options for steaks and chops, including a junior New York sirloin ($44.95) and a hamburger ($24.95). The steak for two ($132.95), three ($199.95) or four  ($265.95) is a lot of meat, and even for two, it would take two trenchermen to polish it all off. All the meat is USDA Prime, aged on premises and expertly seared to keep the degree of doneness correct. I’m glad to see that Benjamin’s has not fallen into the trend of serving once-rare, now ubiquitous, wagyu or Kobe beef, whose novelty is nothing compared with USDA Prime.
         Not all steakhouses serve lobster any more. So, I was delighted to find a two-pounder ($79.95) so perfectly steamed and de-shelled at the table (not in the kitchen where it tends to get cold). The claws were full of meat, indicating it had not been hanging around for days in a tank. (Other seafood items include Chilean sea bass, yellow fin tuna, King crab legs and lobster tails.)
        The creamed spinach ($14.95) is luxurious, keeping the flavor of the vegetable forward and the cream and butter as buoyancy. The  home fries ($15.95) are every bit as good as the onion rings ($15.95).
         Have at least one of the towering desserts—the lava cake ($15.95), cheesecake ($14.95), crème brûlée ($13.95) and the wonderful pecan pie à la mode ($15.95). 
The $44.95 three-course lunch on weekends is a steal.   
      As someone who lives in Westchester County, I am lucky indeed to have a steakhouse of the quality of Benjamin’s, if only to keep me from driving into Manhattan or Brooklyn. And once manager Albert Belegu meets you, he will not forget you, and you will not forget your evening at Benjamin.

Open for dinner nightly; for lunch Sat. & Sun. 



By  John Mariani



         Joseph returned to his parents’ home soon afterwards, leaving Katie to ponder all she’d heard. Her thoughts were very scattered, for while she was used to locking onto a story idea on the basis of received evidence, then to bore into heavy research on the subject, the idea of not even knowing where to begin on a story that seemed to be a vast conspiracy with global reach was mind boggling.
         Indeed, she thought, what is the story? A history of sexual abuse in the Catholic Church? In all religions? A profile of one particular case in one particular parish, or exposing a ring of religious pedophiles in, say, Boston or New York? She knew she’d have to provide her editor with fact-based information to get approval on any kind of story, and this one was much bigger than anything she’d tackled before.
         The trouble with a sexual molestation story was that she could either pin it on a particular incident and extrapolate from there or do a more general story about powerful Church officials very high up and how they handled such cases of abuse. But victims in such cases were always very reluctant to talk about what happened. Maybe there was something in the Magdalene Laundry story, but they all seemed to have been closed by the mid-nineties. Plus, that happened in Ireland, which would be of less interest to McClure’s readers.
         Before even thinking about bouncing a story idea off her editor Alan Dobell, she knew she had to speak with David and get his slant on the idea. She called him that afternoon and arranged to meet him at his house up the Hudson, where David always enjoyed making her lunch. This time it was a salad of Italian cheeses together with arugula, tomatoes and basil from his own garden.
         “So, you got some big new story you want to work on together?” David asked as he picked over the arugula.
         “Bigger than I can get my head around right now,” said Katie, who began to tell her about Joseph’s story and how he wanted to pursue his findings with her help.
         “I told him I couldn’t even begin to research such a story without your help, David.”
         David was shaking his head. “I can see what you mean. What do you zero in on? Where do you start?”
         “Well, my first question is, when you were a cop, did you know about such abuse cases in the Church? They go anywhere?”
         “Such cases weren’t part of my world, but, yeah, I knew about more than a few going on. Mostly Catholic priests. Sometimes Protestant, sometimes Jewish rabbis. The cops who covered crimes like rape and molestation saw a lot of absolutely disgusting things, Katie, and they put a lot of bad people away. A lot of times it was the stepfather, the brother-in-law or the uncle involved.”
         “And were there cases where a priest or minister or rabbi was indicted and went to jail?”
         Almost matter-of-factly, David answered, “Not that I ever heard of. You know New York is very Catholic and the Irish prelates are at the top of the hierarchy. The cardinals have always been Irish, ever since the Irish came here in the nineteenth century.”
         “So they’ve always had the power to stop investigations from going forward. They swore that the Church had the intent and the means to deal with such people in their own way.”
         “Like shipping them off to another parish?”

         “Exactly. And I heard that a lot of the time those priests would start all over again molesting kids. At worst, the Church kicked them out of the priesthood. None of them were ever handed over to the courts to indict. At least I never heard of any. I can check with some of my old colleagues, but I doubt they’d come up with much.”
         “What about arrest records?” asked Katie. “They must have had files on these guys.”
         “Probably not, because they were never arrested. It never got that far. A cop would be told by a parishioner of what looked like molestation and the cop maybe even questioned the priest. Never went further than that as far as I know.”
         “You think I could talk to one of those cops, get his take on this?”
         David rubbed his chin and said, “I think I know one or two still working. Or better yet, a guy who’s retired like me and might be willing to tell everything he knew.”
         Lunch, as usual, was delicious, enjoyed with a glass or two of Soave. David could tell Katie was itching to start making calls, so he went to his desk, brought back an old, battered address book, and wrote down a name and phone number.
         “Here,” he said. “This guy, name’s Tommy Sullivan, very good, honest cop. He used to be on the squad that investigated sex crimes, and I seem to recall he told me he’d always been frustrated about allegations against priests that were never followed up. Lives like a half-hour from here in Spring Valley. I’ll call him right now.”
         David dialed the number and got Tommy Sullivan’s wife on the phone, asked how everyone was and so on, and then Tommy got on the phone. A couple more minutes of small talk, then David told him why he was calling. Katie couldn’t hear what Sullivan was saying but David nodded to her that he’d be happy to talk to her. The two ex-cops ended their conversation abruptly and David said, “He  told us to come right over, if we feel like it.”
         Katie grabbed the keys of her red Fiat and said, “Well, let’s go.”
         David was smiling, knowing he and Katie would again be working as a team, this time on a story that really did start off as a crime, many crimes, and what seemed to be a massive cover-up. More than in the last two cases he worked on with Katie, he felt sure he could be of real help on this one. 
         "Pray Me
gan doesn’t invite us for dinner,” said David. “She’s such a lousy cook.”



John Mariani, 2018



By John Mariani



      The knee-jerk description by many wine connoisseurs and grape growers is that it is a “finicky” varietal, more delicate than Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, and that it needs nurturing even in those regions like Burgundy and Champagne where it’s been a principal grape for centuries. There, the adjectives “complex,” refined” and “elegant” are much bandied about. The Oxford Companion to Wine contends, “If Cabernet produces wines to appeal to the head, Pinots charms on the side of the more sensual and more transparent.” Whatever.
      Pinot Noir needs a cool climate, is sensitive to climate variation and prone to mildew; it requires calcareous soil; yields are low. And though French winemakers will swear that they need do nothing with Pinot Noir but let Nature takes its course, the grape is in fact carefully monitored and every estate proudly asserts that its Pinot Noir is distinctive from the others.
      Given this heritage, growing Pinot Noir in hot climates like California, Australia and New Zealand was long suspect as being unable to produce anything but a brash imitator of the Grand Crus of Burgundy.
      This may well be true—I can’t think of any New World Pinots that achieve the excellence of Grand Crus. But those wines are astoundingly expensive and not many bottles are produced. Although lesser Burgundy estates make some superb Pinots, many are pale, lack weight and tannin and can be pleasant but not exceptional red wines.
         New World Pinots, on the other hand, rarely show the finesse of their French cousins but instead offer deeper, bolder, more tannic structure, even if a high alcohol level of 14.5% keeps them out of balance. What every honest wine drinker should come to realize is that there are different wines made from the same grape, just as the same Rolls Royce Merlin engines  produced different results when placed into War Two fighters like the British Spitfire and the American Mustang. 
Harvesting, pressing, macerating and aging are all processes that differ from winery to winery, and in New World wineries they learned first to cope, then to mimic, then to adapt, then to utilize the differences in soil and climate to produce their own styles of Pinot.
      Here is a group of  very well made Pinots, none that you would mistake for another. 


Alma Rosa Winery. Alma Rosa, founded Richard Sanford and since 2014 owned by Bob and Barbar Zorich,  has released three Pinots from the ideal vintage 2021 at different prices:  Alma Rosa La Encantada Pinot Noir ( $82). Made from 24-year-old vines at La Encantada Vineyard near the Pacific Ocean, aged for 11 months in 40% new French oak, it is bottled unfined and unfiltered, which gives it a robust body with acidity to match. El Jabali Pinot ($90). Originally planted in 1983 and replanted in 2019, these older vines have a good track record and maturity, also aged for 11 months in 45% new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. The levels of spice and pleasing tannins make this an outstanding Pinot. Rancho La Viña  ($82). The soil composition of the vineyards southwest of  the Sta Rita Hills corridor allows winemaker Samra Morris to create a bolder, though not massive, edge to the wine and darker color. 

Dobbes Family Estate Dobbes Grand Assemblage Pinot Noir 2021 ($35). More than once I’ve claimed that Oregon’s Willamette Valley, overall, makes the best New World Pinots, and Dobbes is a leader with its flagship wine by Derek Einberger, using carefully culled fruit from almost every vineyard to provide nuance and balance. Says Einberger, “This bottle serves as a snapshot of vintage and a great introduction to Dobbes wines.” It has a slight mint note and lovely bouquet. Drink it with roast lamb or  grilled pork ribs.

VOON Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir  2021 ($68). Located in the cooler terroir of the Sta Rita Hills, Voon was founded during the pandemic by Evan Anderson as a small-production winery. Winemaker Jessica Gasca believes in low intervention in making Pinot with intensified flavors in the grape. So, you get a fruit-driven wine with a silky texture, ready to drink now. There is also a 2022 available at $68. (By the way, the name “Sta Rita Hills” is used due to a protest by a Chilean winemaker in that country’s Santa Rita region.)

Archery Summit Dundee Hills 2022 ($50). As evident in this article, many New World Pinots are released quite young, and aging prospects haven’t a great deal of history behind them. This Willamette Valley example with grapes from Eola-Amity Hills and Marsh Vineyard is of medium body, 14% alcohol, and quite pleasant to drink right now for its fresh fruit flavors and lighter tannins, making it a good wine to go with Pacific Northwest salmon on the grill. 

Small Vines Wines Shining S 2021 (These wines are on allocation from the winery). A West Sonoma Coast entry is from the Shining S vineyard planted in 2014 in sandy loam soil, using three clones including French Pommard. It stays on the skins for 23 days to acquire concentration and color, then 15 months in barrel on the lees, bottled in February 2023. The fact that it’s 13.1% alcohol shows just how deliciously nuanced Pinot can be when careful aging is applied in an attempt to emulate Burgundies like Pommard.

Imagery 2020 ($20). That price is SRP, and you can find this splendid, medium-bodied Pinot for a lot less at stores or on line. It is unusual in that 5% Petit Verdot is added for color and body. There’s a light touch of French oak among the spice notes. Easy drinking for a wide array of appetizers and main courses.

Yering Station 2020 ($40). This Australian estate dates back to vineyards planted in Victoria by the Scottish-born Ryrie brothers in 1838, when the land was called “Yering” by the First Nations People. Since 1996 it has been owned by Darren Rathbone, also the winemaker. In the blending process all wine parcels are “randomized and served blind to determine their final home.” Typical of Australian Pinots, Yering’s are very full-bodied, tannic and have a long finish with plenty of dark fruit flavors.  Other, older vintages are available as well. 




"Why Do All Chefs Cross Their Arms in Photos? A Completely Serious investigation of the most popular pose on restaurant websites, TV cooking show, and photo ops." By Tiffany Leigh, (11/23/23).


 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from

   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 


“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.

“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.


The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.

"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.

Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.

"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross,

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.


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