Virtual Gourmet

  MARCH 3, 2024                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 


"The Lemon Tree of Sorrento" By Vincenzo Magliaro



By John Mariani


By John Mariani

By John Mariani

hn Mariani


Part Two

By John Mariani


      No matter which way you turn in the lobby of the Omni Boston Hotel, opened in 2021, you will enter a food and drinks place with varying degrees of extravagance, from Kestra Mediterranean restaurant and The Sporting Club with its wall-to-wall TV screens to the Crescendo Lobby Bar for cocktails and light bites and Lifted on the fifth floor. In summer you can also drink and nibble at the rooftop pool area.
         But the most special of them is Coquette, a huge space composed of bar and café and dining room, all done with consummate flamboyant décor of  brickwork, archway, white oak floor, pastels, brass, gold and silver, table lamps, rose-colored chandeliers, including a fresco above the bar.
      It’s a delight just to see it all, and you wonder how the kitchen, led by Chief Culinary Officer Tom Berry, can turn out so many dishes, both rustic and sophisticated, in a space that seats more than 200 guests. Multiply that by turn-over, especially on weekends, when the “vibe”—a modern term meant to convey a high decibel level meshed with blasting bass and drum sounds—comes close to deafening.
You may begin with items from the raw bar, nibble on a decent thin-crusted pizza ($18-$21), toasted focaccia with cacio e pepe butter and pecorino ($9) or the irresistible nonna buns ($10) that are suffused with warm parmesan to be pulled apart and salted and peppered.
      Atlantic crab fondue ($24) is a bright idea, a rich mixture of melted fontina, taleggio and provolone cheeses with green pesto, pignoli and toasted focaccia with which to scoop it all up. Similarly, potato croquettes Sicilian-style ($21) contain red crab, pecorino, roasted garlic, aioli and fennel salt for popping in the mouth. There are also “small/petite” dishes, including succulent, well-seasoned lamb meatballs enriched with crème fraiche, an orange-date glaze, crushed hazelnuts and harissa oil ($21), not an item you’ll find in the North End.                                                                                                    Photo by Josh Jamison
I say without fear of contradiction that Coquette is the only restaurant in Boston—perhaps anywhere else but Nice—that serves merda dé can (left; $18), which are basically plump spinach dumplings with a tomato, brown butter, Roquefort cream and hazelnuts (they use a lot of hazelnuts here!). They are absolutely delicious and make a good pasta starter—despite their name in Niçoise dialect meaning “dog shit,” because they usually come in an unappetizing looking and smelling anchovy sauce.
         Portions are generous, not least the truffled chicken ($43), half a bird, impeccably golden brown with a truffle gravy and fines herbes. The meat, sliced from the bone, is juicy and the flavor of good poultry.
Dorade royale ($42) may not come from off the New England coast but this meaty Mediterranean seabream is savory with a tomato brown butter and hazelnut panzanella ($37). This being America, though, there are several cuts of beef available, including a 16-ounce pork tomahawk ($49).
         Don’t miss the pommes frites ($12) which are glossed with an aioli and fennel salt. You won’t find better in town.
         Obviously, in a place with this largess, desserts will be big and lovable, including a double chocolate torte sandwiched with
dark  and milk chocolate mousse, salted halva fudge, toasted white sesame, praline crunch, cocoa crumble, passionfruit sauce, guava ice cream ($14), big enough for two or three to share, and a pleasant olive oil  and orange tinged semolina cake with luscious lemon mascarpone cremeux, wafer crȇpe, pistachios, blackberry, strawberry gin jam (left; $14).
         The restaurant company behind Coquette, COJE Management Group, doesn’t neglect any aspect of what is modern upscale dining, including a 350+-label wine list in the care of
 general manager and sommelier Nick Morisi, who favors, with good reason, wines from France and Provence, as well as some trophy Burgundies.
         I am anxious to return to Coquette, knowing now exactly what I’d order again but open to whatever is new, for this kind of food is exemplary of a concept well thought out, then just as well put into place. When I do return it will be mid-week and early in order to avoid the cacophony that ensues later on. With a portion of merda de can and a roast chicken, accompanied by a nice Bandol rose, I would be very happy to go home and watch anything on TV wherein Juliette Binoche is cooking.


Open for dinner nightly; lunch and brunch Sat. & Sun.





603 Crescent Avenue

                                                                       By John Mariani


        Although a number of the Italian restaurateurs in the Belmont section of the Bronx—whence originated the doo-wop trio Dion & the Belmonts—centered by Arthur Avenue won’t admit it, Robert Paciullo’s namesake trattoria brought an attention to the neighborhood at the beginning of this century that it had long lacked. It also made them up the ante.
         At the time, most of the restaurants in the neighborhood (about a mile from the Bronx Zoo and Botanical Gardens) served more or less the same sacrosanct southern Italian dishes beloved by their customers over decades dating back to when the neighborhood was settled by Neapolitan and Sicilian immigrants early in the last century—linguine con vongole, lasagna, veal parmigiana and plenty of good pizzas. (The best is at Mario’s.) Some of those dishes are on Roberto’s menu, but you’ll find many more that never appear elsewhere, written on a daily changing blackboard menu. They’d be tough to find in Manhattan or Brooklyn.
         On any given day at Roberto’s rustic trattoria of just 50 seats you might encounter crostini toasted bread with smoked scamorza mozzarella ($16) or a starter of scottaditi—“finger burners”—small juicy lamb chops you pick up by the bone and eat in one bite ($14).
      Recently on a Thursday afternoon I was faced with the delectable dilemma of deciding among those dishes as well as artichoke hearts with prosciutto, fava beans, spiced oil and melted smoked mozzarella; bucatini “modo mio” ($24) in a creamy zucchini sauce; spaghetti cooked in cartoccio ($28), an aluminum foil pouch that is sliced open so that aromatic steam fills the air, and the spaghetti is suffused with a red pepper sauce alla diavolo.
         Rigatoni lashed with a veal ragù and the wholly unexpected addition of cantaloupe, as well as prosciutto and ricotta.  For a main course there was chicken cooked on the bone for flavor, with eggplant caponata and provolone ($24). Veal scallopine is treated to Speck bacon, grilled tomato, melted Taleggio and a wine reduction ($32), and you can also get one of those massive tomahawk steaks he has hanging in his humidified cold locker up front.
      For dessert go with the pastiera cheesecake ($11) made with wheat berries.
     All the food is lusty, served without fanfare. You get a good bread basket and olive oil for dipping, and the wine list is exceptionally wide-ranging, largely Italian and Californian, stored beneath the dining room where there are party facilities.
         You’re likely to find a passel of New York Yankees or Mets down there, and upstairs a clientele that includes Marisa Tomei, Joe Torre,  Larry Fishburne and Chazz Palmenteri.
         Roberto, who was born in Salerno, south of Naples, has turned his hard work and belief in his culinary heritage into a small empire. He also has a somewhat more traditional pizzeria and trattoria called Zero Otto Nove (089 is the calling code for Salerno), with branches in Manhattan and two in Westchester County’s Tuckahoe and Armonk. He bounds from one to the other, but he’s usually at Roberto’s during the week at lunchtime. Weekends are packed. Pay him a visit. No, pay him some homage for adding so measurably to Arthur Avenue, whose other restaurants are all the better now after he challenged them to be so.

Open for lunch and dinner Tues.-Sat.



By  John Mariani



      Spring Valley, in Rockland County, was southwest of where David lived along the Hudson River and about five miles from the New Jersey border. David and Tommy Sullivan has visited each other occasionally—he retired a year before David did—sometimes going fishing in the lakes and rivers in their respective counties.
         Sullivan’s work had taken a toll on him after twenty-five years on the force. It was not so much dealing with the child abuse, spousal abuse and rape, but seeing too often how the perpetrators were never put away. It all depended on the legal system, from public defenders forced to plead on behalf of so many despicable offenders to judges who had too many cases on their dockets. The more a client could pay for a lawyer, the more likely he’d get off with a suspended sentence and parole.  After a while, Sullivan had had enough, and Spring Valley—thirty miles from his Manhattan Precinct—seemed far away from all that.
    His aluminum-sided house had an above-ground pool in the backyard, where he and his three kids spent most of the summer. His wife Megan did some part-time secretarial work at the local school.
         David and Katie arrived around four o’clock. Tommy Sullivan was already waiting for them in the front yard. First words out of his mouth were, “So this is the great Katie Cavuto I heard so much about.”
         Katie, who was dressed in light blue shorts and a white tennis shirt, looked every bit as beautiful as David had described her. Katie and Tommy shook hands and he said, “Now, why the hell would you traipse around the world with this old man?”
         “I carry her bags,” said David.
         The Sullivans ushered them inside and Megan asked if they’d like tea and cookies. David glanced at Katie and said that would be just fine.
         “So, David,” Tommy began. “you want to talk about child molestation among the good priests, brothers and nuns?”
         “Well, I assume such cases came across your desk.”
         “Yeah, they did. More often than you’d think. Wretched stuff, some of it went on for years, and the kids had terrible psychological scars from it. Y’know, cops don’t like to bring work home with them, but sometimes I came through the doors sobbing and had to tell Megan what was going on.”
         “What forms of abuse are you talking about, Tommy?” asked Katie.
     “Just about every form of pedophilia you can think of, including outright rape.  Most of the time it begins with a child who is often troubled, or maybe bullied by the other kids, going to the priest or nun who’s like his protector, someone the kid’s been confessing sins to, which may be sexual in nature. The priest picks up on that, offers the child a safe haven, then it gets to a warm embrace, then it gets more intimate, and before the kid knows it, this adult he trusted is trying to convince the child sex is a natural thing.”
       Megan returned with the tea and a tin of cookies. Aware of what her husband was narrating, she showed palpable sadness in her face.
         “How do the children feel about this attention?”
         “Some of them know damn well it’s a complete lie on the priest’s part. The older the child, the more they know about sex. With the girls it’s a situation she might well have been in with boys her age or older. Those are the ones who are repulsed by it, but rarely do they ever tell anyone what happened.”
         “And the others?” asked David.
         Tommy dragged his hand down his face. “The others. There are many different reactions.  Some accept what these bastards are telling them. It all starts out real gentle and loving, then when it gets down to real sex, they give in because they feel trapped and fear exposure. In every case I saw, the priest or brother or nun made the children swear not to say anything about their activities. Some of these bastards said they would have the child excommunicated from the Church. They’d burn in hell.  Others actually threatened violence. You’ve got to remember, these cases go back to the days when these people were allowed to beat children, even in grammar school, for misbehaving.”
         David and Katie well remembered those days, for only in the past decade had corporal punishment been prohibited by the Church. Prior to that, a slap on the hand with a ruler had become part of most Catholics’ memories, even to the point of nostalgia.  Every child had a story about Sister So-and-So and her ruler, or an Irish Christian Brother who had a leather or rubber strap held in his cassock.  It was part of every Irish and Italian comedian’s repertoire of jokes. And the punch line was always, “And whatever the nuns did to me, I’d get it twice as bad at home if my father found out.”
         “Some of these bastards were out-and-out sadists,” Tommy continued. “ I saw the marks on the kids’ buttocks. The red marks on their cheeks. A busted ear drum.”
         “And how did these cases come to your attention?” asked Katie, writing in her notebook.
 “Y’know, that’s one of the worst things about it. Parents were extremely reluctant to go to the cops because they were holy men and women of the Church they’d be accusing of the vilest sins. Others may have believed their own child instigated the problem. But most didn’t tell the cops because if it came to a court hearing, their child—six years old, ten years old, seventeen—would have to admit to what happened and the priest’s attorney would just grill these kids, torture them with questions no child should have to answer.”
         “So, how did these cases come to you?”
         “In a lot of cases, other kids, the older ones, would tell us they believed Father So-and-So was molesting one of their friends and wanted us to nail the bastard. It was never much to go on, and we’d have to contact the parents first and do some investigating before going to see the alleged offender.”
         “So, how many of these cases resulted in indictments?” asked Katie.
        Tommy Sullivan looked at his wife, who seemed on the verge of tears.
         “Not one,” Megan said. “Tommy did as much as anyone to bring these horrible men and women to justice, but nothing ever happened.” She wiped her eyes, then said, “I was once the best Irish Catholic girl you ever met. I even thought maybe I’d become a nun. Then, after years of hearing about this abuse from Tommy, I just stopped even going to Church. Like Tommy said, he never brought his work home, but when he couldn’t help these children . . . these babies, it broke his heart. And it broke mine. I no longer believe in the Catholic Church. God I don’t even know anymore.  How could God let those things happen to those children?  I can’t make any sense of it.”


John Mariani, 2018




By John Mariani

Serralunga Castello, Piemonte

    Italy's Piemonte region has over the last several decades made its reputation on the basis of its Nebbiolo-based Barolos and Barbarescos whose producers have come to rank with the best in the country.  Ironically, after the war, Barolos and Barbarescos were not held in the same regard as those  named just Nebbiolo and others like Dolcetto, Spanna and Gattinara, while Barbera is made with grapes of the same name.
    It was not until 2002 that the Rossi Cairo family bought vineyard land in the region for their winery named La Raia with the purpose of heightening awareness of the white varietal Gavi. Giorgio Rossi Cairo, a consultant, wanted to pursue his investment in sustainable farming, including at the new winery called Tenuta Cucco as of 2015. At first his daughter Caterina ran La Raia, then his son Piero took over both wineries as CEO. I interviewed him  in New York about how he began with little knowledge of wine and eventually took over the management, with winemaker for both wineries Clara Milani. 


What were you doing before becoming involved in wine making?

After graduating in business administration and law, I worked for five years for a big law firm in Milan. The first year I was in capital markets, while the remaining four I was in the M&A department. It was only when my family acquired Tenuta Cucco at the end of 2014, and my sister got completely absorbed by her school at La Raia, that I was asked to step in and manage the wine business. It took some convincing, but I feel very lucky to be granted such an opportunity. To work and create value for myself and my family and not just for my clients and the law firm I was working for.  


What was your father’s role in the idea of founding a winery?

I believe that when my father decided to acquire a winery, as an engineer he wanted to pursue his passion, the countryside, also a place where we would produce something. Hence the decision to acquire a winery, which at that time was selling wine only as bulk. My sister Caterina immediately moved into the estate to live with her husband Tom and their one-year-old Matthias. Something my father might never admit is that he also acquired La Raia in order to make it a reunion point for our family. Which it became, slowly, fascinating to our entire family with its beauty. Now that my sister has stepped down from the wine business, she still manages a Waldorf school inside the estate. 


What part of Piemonte is your winery located and what is special about its terroir?

La Raia is a 180-hectare estate, hence we are proud to host quite a variety of soils. We are also proud to be certified biodynamic since 2007—way before being organic, biodynamic or natural started to be used as a marketing leverage. From highly marly white soil we may encounter red soil rich in minerals, in particular iron. Tenuta Cucco, acquired in 2018, is a 12.5-hectare estate which dominates the hill of Serralunga d'Alba. At altitudes between 330 and 410 meters above sea level, the soils are of marine sedimentary origin, dating back to the "Piedmont Tertiary Basin,” characterized by the presence of sedimentary calcareous clay marl, alternating layers of marl and sand or sandstone.
These soils feature the "Lequio Formation" characterized by evident layers of sand alternating with sandstone and marl.


What is the meaning of the name Tenuta Cucco?

Cucco is the local dialect for the top of the hill, where the winery is actually located.


This was already vineyard land with old vines, correct?

The Tenuta Cucco winery (formerly known as Cascina Cucco) was acquired by the Stroppiana family from the Cappellano family in 1966. The vineyards were already there. Actually the Cerrati Cru is one of the oldest crus of Serralunga. 


Clara Milani, winemaker

Since you were not knowledgeable about wine in 2015, whom did you turn to to help establish the winery?

2015 is the year when I jumped onboard the ship,  which was already navigating since 2002 with the help of my sister and her husband Tom. So they actually matured for 13 years of experience in farming and in wine production before my arrival. I started from the business development part of the business, with particular focus on the export markets. It is little by little that I gained knowledge and experience in the farming and wine making part. I started creating my own team, with our external wine consultant Piero Ballario, who has been with us for almost 15 years, and Clara Milani, our winemaker, who now is in charge of the wine making at both La Raia and Tenuta Cucco. I also started a winemaking degree, although I must admit that I never found the time for taking any exam. Hopefully, one day, I will be able to continue.  


Was the wine being produced before you owned the property of good quality?

With particular focus on Tenuta Cucco, nobody of the Stroppiana family was managing the wine business. Hence investments were not really made. Therefore, we immediately saw a great unexploited potential in the Nebbiolo vineyards, which were next to the cellar within the historical center of Serralunga d'Alba. 


What did you seek to change about it?

We started from the beginning with farming. We immediately initiated the conversion to organic farming, which granted us the certification from the 2018 vintage. New tractors and farming equipment were the first things to be introduced, then we started to invest in the winemaking process in the cellar with the removal of the overused French oak and the introduction, year by year, of new big oak barrels (botti) of 25HL made with Slavonian oak, some medium toasted and some not, along with new big oak casks where the fermentation takes place. New cellar machinery was bought and recently a moisture and temperature control system has been introduced in part of the cellar dedicated to aging the wine in oak.  


You have a very avid passion for ecological and sustainable practices. What have you done that is innovative?

We believe farmers hold the keys to the fruits of our soil, which is one of the most important resources on planet Earth. Every day which passes it becomes scarcer, and it is our mission to be able to deliver to the new generations the keys to an even richer and healthier soil. The mastermind behind the promotion of biodiversity in our wineries was my sister Caterina, who at the end of 2002 immediately decided to convert La Raia to organic and biodynamic farming, anticipating by far what has become a big trend in the farming industry in the recent years. And of course our winemaker Clara Milani (below).When we acquired Tenuta Cucco at the end of 2014, it was a logical consequence to transition to organic farming practices also there. At La Raia we are lucky to have ample distance from neighboring farms. At Tenuta Cucco, on the other hand, we face proximity to traditional farming neighbors, making it challenging to implement the biodiversity-promoting biodynamic approach we believe in. 





Why do you not age your Nebbiolo?

The Barolo appellation requires Barolo to be aged at least 18 months in wood (either oak or chestnut). We produce more than 40,000 bottles of Barolo at Tenuta Cucco. We think that Nebbiolo, when not expressing itself as Barolo, also deserves an interpretation without any contamination from oak, hence our decision to work on our Langhe Nebbiolo in stainless steel, which leaves intact the original fruit and flavors of the Nebbiolo grape. 


Your family lives in Houston and you are bi-continental. How often are you in each place, and isn’t that difficult to run a family business from the U.S.?

My move to the USA is just temporary. I felt like a more continuing presence in the market was necessary for the commercial expansion of Tenuta Cucco. Therefore, 2024 became the year in which I decided to go all in. We are pushing for establishing the brand, promoting the 2019 vintage, which is getting great reviews and recognition. However, my business decisions need to harmonize with my personal life. I am an entrepreneur but also a father. My present and my future is in wine and, hopefully, my generation (my sister and I) will be able to leave these estates as a legacy to our children. I couldn't stay for so long without my family and I knew this experience abroad would be beneficial for them, too. We moved but without distorting our essence. So, for example, my son Leonardo still attends a Waldorf school in Houston as he was doing at La Raia. It is hard to travel so frequently. Luckily I have a wonderful team in Italy that maintains the standard and the vision at the estates when I am not there.


What do you see for your company in five years?

I hope that both wineries, Tenuta Cucco and La Raia, really achieve the high goals and global success we have set for them: to produce great wine while guaranteeing to future generations the availability of a land, soil and landscape more vital, rich and beautiful than when we received them at the start of our wine and farming journey.  And I would really love one day to see in consumers the appreciation of the hard work we are carrying forward, consumers who hopefully will become even more responsible in their choices. Because life on our planet really depends on this, on our everyday choices. 




FOOD WRITING 101: Don't Sound Like an Idiot.

"Panic, panic. My best laid plans have fallen through and I have nowhere to eat. How has this happened? I’m an idiot. I’m a clown." By Charlotte Ivers,"Silver Birch Restaurant Review," London Times (2/11/24)



 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from

   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 


“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.

“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.


The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.

"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.

Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.

"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross,

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.


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