MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

July 19,  2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 

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"Mickey and the Beanstalk" (1947)

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THE BIG FREEZE
BY JOHN MARIANI



NEW YORK CORNER
LE PAVILLON

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  THIRTY

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WELL OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY WINES

By John Mariani



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THE BIG FREEZE
BY JOHN MARIANI



 
        The two words "frozen foods" have long been ignominiously blamed for corrupting world food culture, under the first assumption that "fresh" is always better than "frozen" and that the process ruins flavors, textures and nutrients. There is also the contention that eating out-of-season foods year-round runs counter to all good sense.
        Much of that criticism is overly harsh to the point of obstinacy; some of it is simply wrong.  At its most basic form––one that goes back millennia in regions where ice has always been used as a preservative––freezing food saves it from rot. Indeed, of all means of preserving––salting, curing, drying,  smoking––it renders the least harm to food. Properly frozen foods at a temperature below 32º F suspends almost all micro-organisms, and frozen peas retain essential flavors that fresh ones, picked, packed, shipped and sold over days do not. At 10º F ice crystals stop from forming, which is not the case in a home freezer. Flash freezing, which is widely used on Japanese fishing boats that may be out for weeks at a time, quickly brings the food down to -54º F, creating microscopic ice crystals that keep the cell walls, moisture, texture and flavor largely intact.  In fact, most fish to be used for sushi in Japan is flash frozen, and the U.S. FDA Food Code mandates that fish intended for sushi be frozen at 4° below for at least seven days to destroy parasites. So that pristine sushi and sashimi you have at an expensive omakase counter is unlikely to have been fresh.
        It is certainly true that if you can find fresh food in the market, it should be seasonal; in a perfect world, which might include those restaurants run by three-star chefs those ingredients come to their  back door no more than twenty-four hours old, that is the only legitimate definition for "farm to table." Mark Twain once said that the only way to eat corn on the cob was to bring a pot of water into the field, build a fire and boil the ears right there. Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme said that he was stymied as to why his potatoes didn't taste like those his mother served back home, and she told him, "Because we dig them out of the ground just before we cook  them."
        So let's not be overly harsh about a process that has not only made cooking year-round easier for the happy homemaker but available to millions of people around the world who would otherwise have less to eat or be at the threat of a bad crop of famine. Use of pesticides and genetic modification of foods are another issue for another time.

       The man responsible for perfecting the freezing of food  was  a fellow  named Clarence Birdseye, for whom the title of a biography, The Adventures of a Curious Man, is a most apt and accurate description of a one whose interests included killing wolves and raising foxes for their pelts and holding more than 200 patents for light bulbs, harpoons, and paper made from sugar cane pulp.

       Birdseye was born in Brooklyn, NY, and grew up as an outdoorsman, learning taxidermy while a teenager. He attended but did not graduate from Amherst College, instead taking a job with the U.S. Agriculture Dept. in New Mexico and Arizona as an assistant naturalist from 1910-1911,  researching the cause of Rocky Mountain spotted fever, then from 1912-1915, while on assignment to Labrador, he began research on fast-freezing food whose rudiments he learned from the ice fishing of Inuit Indians. He was not the first person to freeze foods for the commercial market: In 1817 Dr. Kitchner of England froze fish with a brine of ice and salt, and in 1842 a patent was granted to Henry Benjamin and Henry Grafton for freezing fish. By 1861 a mechanical freezing plant was operating in Australia, just a few degrees below the freezing point, allowing for meat to be shipped to the U.S. The problem with such efforts was that temperatures were not low enough to prevent fruit and vegetables from becoming mushy.

    On a local level Birdseye found that freezing fish and other food better preserved it by causing smaller ice crystals to form. He continued his experiments in 1922 at the Clothel Refrigerating Co., with a seven-dollar investment in an electric fan, brine, and ice, then founded his own, Birdseye Seafoods Inc., which went bankrupt in 1924. By then, however, he had improved his process by freezing fish under pressure, between two refrigerated surfaces under pressure, called "plate freezing."  He thereupon established the General Seafood Corporation in 1925 in Gloucester, MA. 


    Two years later he expanded his operations to other foods and debuted his patented “Quick Freeze Machine.”   Two years after that, he sold both his company and patents to Goldman Sachs Trading Corp.  and the Postum Co. for $22 million, which, as General Foods Corp., launched the highly successful Birds Eye Frozen Food Co. in Springfield, MA, in 1930, shipping products in refrigerated boxcars. Today the company is owned by Conagra Foods. According to its website, its vegetables are "ripened in the fields," not on the way to market. More than 40%  of perishable food in the U.S. is said to be discarded each year, but not frozen foods.
    Frozen food proved a real asset for American G.I.s during World War II, carried on the concrete Barge, Refrigerated, Large (BRL), which stored 1,500 tons of frozen meat and 500 tons of vegetables, eggs and dairy and 500 gallons of ice cream at 15º F.

    After the war, with more Americans owning true freezers rather than ice boxes, packaged frozen foods became ubiquitous.  And however lacking in flavor Swanson's frozen TV dinners were upon their  introduction in 1952, they were a complete meal in three courses one plate popped into the oven without the need for cooking. Some will carp that such innovations ruined American cookery, but the TV Dinners made sense at a time when millions of Americans found it tough to make ends meet or hadn't  the time to cook a full meal.
    Those lucky enough to live near a farm or have a weekend farmer's market might have less reason to buy frozen food––eschewing sushi––but it's nice to know that when you need peas for a recipe or feel like corn on the cob in April, Clarence Birdseye made it possible.
     Birdseye died in NYC of a heart attack in 1956. According to the National Inventors Hall of Fame,
“Clarence Birdseye improved the nation's diet and created a new industry based on his innovative food preservation processes.”


 

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NEW YORK CORNER



                                                                            LE PAVILLON

                                                                            One Vanderbilt Avenue

                                                                                    212-662-1000

                                                                                By John Mariani



 

       For all the restaurants Daniel Boulud has in New York within his Dinex Group––Daniel, Le Gratin, Café Boulud, La Tête d’Or, Maison Barnes,  Blue Box Café, Joji, Épicerie Boulud, Maison Boulud and Brasserie Boulud––Le Pavillon,  now five years old, may be my favorite in that it is expressive of his highly personalized French style within a dynamic 21st century New York design and  featuring reasonable (these days) $145 three-course meal, or you can opt for six courses at $205. (Three courses at Daniel run $195.)  There are six sparkling wines by the glass,  six white and rosé, five red.

       The second-story dining room is stunning, designed by Isay Weinfeld with a soaring glass ceiling and an indoor garden arrayed with tall olive trees and slatted Brazilian wood. You will be very cordially received by lovely hostesses, and the staff, from captains and waiters to sommeliers are quick on their feet and show a sophisticated professionalism you look for in a fine French restaurant. As you might expect, the wine list has exceptional depth and breadth in every category, with 750 selections, most French.

       Management insists,  “Business casual attire is strongly recommended. Athletic or leisure wear is not permitted and gentlemen are not permitted to wear shorts or sandals in the dining room.” Still, I’ve seen more than a few non-gentlemen in t-shirts traipsing through the restaurant. Don’t be one of those.

       The current menu, overseen by exec chef William Nacev, evokes traditional French cuisine with wonderful flair, like using an Époisse cheese emulsion instead of Gruyère atop a Vidalia onion tart with dandelions and the scent of fresh thyme.

       He adds seared bay scallops to his bouillabaisse, and yellowfin tuna is combined with fennel pollen with a socca crisp and tonnato sauce. Falafel joins charred carrot with a fava leaf and magnolia blossom chimichurri.

       An excellent Sasso chicken, tender to the bone and very juicy, came with wonderful morels, a poached quail egg, summer’s asparagus and a light Madeira sauce. The saddle of lamb is from Colorado, served with fava beans and roasted squash blossoms in a rich jus. A Frenchi-fied egg-filled raviolo was more elaborate than the original Italian model from San Domenico in Imola makes  but still quite good.

   
There is a proper selection of cheeses along with Pastry Chef Yohko Ogata's desserts, including a proud “Vive La France” rendering of île flottante with tricolor almond praline and brioche. Raspberries and rhubarb marry with almond ice cream and a tarragon sable, while there is both a milk chocolate mousse with hazelnut nougatine and chocolate espresso of black sesame almond sable butter cookies, chocolate gavotte rolled crêpes, miso caramel and espresso ice cream.

I do wish they would dress up the  drab reception room downstairs next to the elevator. Other than that, Le Pavillon has translated fine, very accessible, French cuisine into a true New York idiom of spectacular design and sophisticated professionalism.

 

 

Open for lunch Mon.-Sat.; Dinner Mon.-Sat.







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THE BISON
By John Mariani




                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



CHAPTER THIRTY


       First Katie had to find out where Pierce was on his ski trip, which she figured would be easy enough by checking the Swiss newspapers available at the New York Library on Fifth Avenue and 42nd Street. She called David and asked him to join her there so they could both go through recent editions more quickly.
       “I’d love to,” he said. “I got to like searching through archives when we were on the Harry Lime story in London. See you there tomorrow at ten?”
       Katie loved the Library, from its marble lions (named Patience and Fortitude) outside its entrance to the grand Beaux Art Reading Rooms with their tall windows and ceilings painted to look like the sky, stretching for two city blocks.
     She met David outside the library, and they climbed the majestic steps to the third floor and into what had for decades been the card catalog room, whose index cards were now all on computers arrayed around the long, wide oak desks. They approached the Information Desk to ask about Swiss newspapers in English or French (Katie could read the latter) and were told that the library stocked The Local, which had just been founded a year earlier, and NZZ in English (an offshoot of Neue Zürcher Zeitung, the nation’s largest). Katie asked for editions from the past month, then after filling out a request slip, Katie and David entered the Reading Room to the left, sat down and waited for their number to come up on a lighted screen.
       Within a half hour, they collected copies of the papers and sat down to go through them; Katie took NZZ and David The Local.  After an hour, nothing had turned up, but then David found an article about a meeting of newspaper publishers that had taken place ten days before in Zürich and that Pierce had attended. As an aside, the paper noted that “South African publisher Angus Pierce, who has a residence in St. Moritz. . . .”
       “That’s where we should go,” said Katie. “I’m just going to check with his assistant here in New York if Pierce is still in Switzerland. She wouldn’t tell me what city, though.”
       The two of them gathered up the newspapers and brought them back to the collection desk, then they had a quick lunch at the curving counter of the Grand Central Oyster Bar two blocks away. The magnificent restaurant was in the lower level of the terminal, having opened in 1913, with arched ceilings tiled by the same artist who’d done the same work at Ellis Island.
       Katie ordered lemon sole, David the famous oyster stew.
       “So we just fly to St. Moritz and go from there?” he said.
       “I think we probably fly into Zürich or Geneva, and get up to St. Moritz from there. We’ll rent a car.”
       “For your purposes, shouldn’t we at least stick our toes into Lausanne?”
       “Good idea. Let me see if I can find out how long Pierce will be in St. Moritz.”
       It was too noisy within the crowded restaurant, so Katie made a call from the ladies’ room to Pierce’s assistant, asking if she’d heard from her boss. Solari said she had but did not have any answer for Katie as to a possible interview. She said, yes, he was expected to be in Switzerland for another week to ten days.
       Katie and David then walked into a travel agency located within Grand Central to ask about flights, car rental and hotels in St. Moritz, where, this being the ski season, were very expensive.
       The travel agent, a woman named Kristen, who was herself Swiss, said that the best hotels like Badrutt’s Palace and the Grand Hôtel des Bains would all cost $500 a night or more, but that she knew some very charming small hotels like the Giardino Mountain  (below) where she could get them a good deal for under $200.
       “I know the owners,” said Kristen. “A very nice local couple own it. Very friendly, and they love Americans. Everyone I’ve sent there has enjoyed their stay.”
       She showed them photos, with a big fireplace in the main room, a beautiful view of the lake and even a pool, although closed in winter.
       Katie and David looked at each other and agreed it looked perfect. They then booked flights to Zurich, which was just two-and-a-half hours’ train ride from St. Moritz.
       “It’s a beautiful train ride through the mountains,” said Kristen. “Then if you need a car you can rent one when you get to St. Moritz.”
       Katie and David left feeling they had accomplished a great deal in a short time, with their flights leaving the next evening.
       “I don’t suppose you ski?” Katie asked him.
       “No, but I’m thinking of trying it up where I live. There’s a ski area near West Point. What about you?”
       “I used to ski in the Catskills at Windham,” said Katie, “but it’s been years. I don’t suppose we’ll have to escape Pierce’s clutches on skis.”
       “Like Bond did in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, with Blofeld hot on his trail? Or maybe we can just sled downhill. I was a good sledder growing up. Ever heard of Shoelace Park in the Bronx?”
       “Sure have! I loved sledding there. Also Claremont Park near 172nd Street.”
       “Well, one conveyance at a time. So, I’ll see you at check-in at the Swissair counter tomorrow around two?”
       “Sounds good,” said Katie. “We can plan how to charm our way into Pierce’s ski lodge on the flight over.”
   

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Katie and David landed in Zurich at eight in the morning and took the train to St. Moritz—they planned to go to Lausanne afterwards—and it was indeed a stunningly beautiful Alpine landscape just beginning to ebb towards springtime, with the mountains yawing away in the distance.
      
After two and a half hours, as the train pulled into the  modest St. Moritz station, David saw that its tower clock showed that they had arrived precisely on time. He also noticed a vintage Rolls Royce with a driver in livery and a sign reading “BADRUTTS PALACE.” Katie and David took a far less luxurious taxi to their hotel, the Giardino, with its welcoming arched doorway set in a chalet-like structure. Inside was the very large fireplace, surrounded by green and scarlet sofas, the ceiling beamed. They were cordially greeted by one of the owners, named Greta, who offered them tea in front of the fire while their luggage was taken to their rooms.
      
Katie asked her host some idle, tourist questions about restaurants and activities, then told the woman that she was an American journalist doing a story on the town’s social life.
      
“It’s winding down now,” said Greta, with barely a trace of an accent, “after a very busy season. We had a large influx of Russians this year”—which she said with an obvious sour look on her face—"and it’s picked up a great deal since 9/11. Of course, our regular guests still came, and a lot of those who have long had homes here stayed for longer than usual.”
      
Katie asked, “I understand there are many quite famous names who come year every year?”
      
“Oh, yes, indeed. Mostly they stay at Badrutt's (right) or the Grand Hotel or the Kulm, but, as I said, many have homes here.”
      
Playing innocent, Katie asked, “Who are some of the celebrated people who have homes here?”
      
“Well, they are not all celebrated. Many are very, very wealthy, even aristocratic—the Swedish Royal family comes every year—but they try to stay out of the limelight. Otherwise, this season we have had those models like Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer, and that American actor  Robert DeNiro. That type of celebrity goes to the bars like the King’s Club or Devil’s Place.”
      
David said, “I would have thought the Swedish Royal family had enough snow in their own country.”
      
“Oh, I’m sure they do ,” said Greta, “but St. Moritz seems to offer a good deal more to do than Stockholm, and they meet their own kind here, like Alexander and Maxima of the Netherlands, and Prince Edward and the Countess of Wessex from England. We also get people come here just to see where two James Bond movies were filmed.”
      
David said, “I know The Spy Who Loved Me shot scenes here.” (left)
      
“Yes, and of course, Alfred Hitchcock spent his honeymoon at Badrutt’s.”
      
Katie felt she could then ask, “And some fly in on their private planes?”
      
“Oh, yes, it’s a small airport, so we don’t have the major carriers come here.”
      
“Do you happen to know if the newspaper magnate Angus Pierce comes here often?”
      
“Oh, yes. As a matter of fact, he’s been here quite a lot this season, with his son Richard. They have a beautiful house in the Upper Valley of Engadin.”
      
“Is that far?”
      
“No, no, just about twenty minutes. Why, do you know the Pierces?”
      
“Not really,” said Katie. “I thought he might figure into my story about the social life here.”
      
“Well, his son is far more social than his father. He comes into town  all the time, goes to the bars and casinos. His father skis the slopes and comes in for parties.”
      
“Parties at the hotels?” asked David.
      
“No, I think they are usually at private homes.”
      
David and Katie looked at each other, comparing mental notes.
      
Katie continued to ask some general questions about the social scene in town, then asked to be shown to their rooms, which looked out on the pine-filled mountain lowlands. The rooms were somewhat more modern than they expected but kept within the decorous touches of an Alpine lodge. They decided to have a late lunch downstairs at the hotel’s casual restaurant Stüva, (left) which was very much rustic in décor, with furniture that looked like it came out of a Heidi storybook, with rough wood paneling and slate floor.
      
David said, “I am famished after that train ride.”
       “Me, too,” she said. “That mountain air really does have an effect on the appetite, doesn’t it?”
    Katie ordered marinated trout and tagliolini pasta with guanciale bacon; David had beef tartare with a horseradish mayonnaise and the restaurant’s specialty, Wiener schnitzel with lingonberries and fried potatoes. They shared a hazelnut tart with meringue for dessert.
    Over coffee they discussed how best to approach Angus Pierce’s chalet.
    “We can’t exactly show up at his front door,” said Katie.
    “Or sneak in the back,” David replied.
    “I think what we need is an introduction. How about if we try to find Pierce’s son Richard at one of the clubs in town?”
    “Aren’t they all private?”   
    “I’m sure some are, but there would be more action at some of the more public places, don’t you think?”    David laughed. “You’re asking me? The only time I got into any ‛clubs’ was when we got a court order to search some mob hang-out.”
    “Like that, what was it called in The Sopranos?”   
    “Club Bada Bing? I guess so. I hated that show. Bullshit from one episode to another. And, of course, so full of Italian mobster stereotypes it was a freakin’ farce. Tony Soprano wouldn’t have lasted ten minutes in a real mob. Maybe a Jersey mob, but certainly not Brooklyn.”
    Katie said she shared David’s dislike for the TV series and the way it treated Italian-American characters as mindless murderers.   
    “Analyze This, with DeNiro and Billy Crystal, now that was a funny movie. Also a farce but good-natured, y’know?”
    “Right, a parody. Everybody overacting for effect.”
    “Exactly,” said David. “I knew cops who worked on the locations for that movie. DeNiro and Chazz Palminteri were great with the local cops. Crystal was apparently a dickhead.”   
    “Okay, so back on the trail of Richard Pierce: I’m sure Greta can guide us. I think she’s a pretty willing gossip and likes Americans. For now, let’s get some rest and then go party, eh?”
    “Not sure I packed the right party clothes,” said David.
    “We can ask about that, too.”   
    Greta’s suggestions as to the prospects of finding Richard Pierce in town met Katie’s expectations.
      
“The King’s  Club is the oldest,” she said. “It’s at Badrutt. The Italians go to the Diamond Club. The Roo Bar is passé and gets foreign tourists. The English favor the Hato.”
      
“So, Richard might go to any of those?” asked David.
      
“He belongs to some of the private clubs in town, but I know he goes to the Kings Club (left). He has lunch on the mountain at the Corveglia Club, which goes back to the 1930s and is very exclusive. Also, The Dracula, which has been around since the 1970s,  gets a certain kind of, what you call Euro-Trash? It was opened by that fashion photographer Gunter Sachs. He married Brigitte Bardot, you know. His son Rolf now runs it.”
      
“Any chance of getting into any of the private ones?” asked Katie.
      
“I could probably get you into the Corveglia for lunch. But since you are a journalist doing a story on the social scene here, you should speak to a local journalist here who covers that. Her name is Alessandra Baldassari— she’s Italian Swiss—and works for The Local.”
      
“The English language paper?” asked Katie.
      
“Yes, she covers  the St. Moritz social scene for them. She claims she has some aristocratic blood in her and acts like it, but she is very good at what she does. I’ll call her for you. I’m sure she’d want to meet you.”
      
Katie and David expressed their gratitude and asked when Greta might be able to contact Baldassari.                   “First thing in the morning. Well, maybe late morning. Alessandra stays out late and wakes up late.”

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024







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                                NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR




   

WELL OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY WINES

By John Mariani

 

       It’s easy enough to understand why so many vintners on so many counties make so many of the same varietal wines: The best-selling wines (not in order) are Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris (Grigio).  When I’ve asked winemakers in countries with little or no experience growing these varietals why they would rip out traditional varietals and re-plant with the  most popular ones. This has resulted in so many––perhaps most––of these wines tasting the same, because, obviously, they’re all made from the same grapes and aim for a style that consumers seem to prefer, like punch-like Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand. Things can get pretty boring.

       Fortunately a good number of more imaginative vintners still  make varietals that are more historically traditional or even indigenous. Some younger vineyard owners are bringing back little known varietals or treating popular ones with innovation. Here is a grab bag of out-of-the-ordinary wines I’ve been delighted to drink as refreshing alternatives to the tried-and-true.

 

TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES EXTREMO MALBEC 2022 ($40).  The estate plays on the description of this Argentinian wine as its  “most elevated expression of Malbec to date” as part of their decades-long “Ascension Journey,” referring to plantings at higher and higher altitudes, in this cased from a single parcel in El Espinillo, the highest vineyard it Gualtallary on Yungato, 5,380 feet above sea level. The cool temperatures at that height allow for gentle nurturing in sandy loam soils with calcareous to provide minerality. The 30-year-old estate. Led by  Lucas Löwi, uses grapes from more than 100 plots to blend this signature Malbec (13.5% alcohol), which is excellent with all red meats and hearty soups.

 

 

DOMAINE NICO SŒUR ET FRÈRES GRAND PÉRE PINOT NOIR 2022 ($35). Another high-altitude red, this from the Uco Valley in Domaine Nico collects its grapes from 3,675 and 4,921 feet above sea level. The soils is rich in limestone conducive to Pinot Noir. Owner Laura Catena, herself a Francophile, and winemaker Roy Urvieta respect the grape’s style in Burgundy––where the slopes­­ rarely top 1,000 feet––but seek to show off what the terroir of Mendoza can achieve. “When  I realized we could make a Pinot Noir with the classic floral aromas, minerality and elegance,” says Catena “we began studying the flavours of high altitude Pinot Noir from Mendoza.” They are beautiful wines, elegant and silky but with a richness not as readily found in Burgundian bottlings below the Grand Cry level.




DECOY RED BLEND 2023  ($25). Decoy is the second label of Dan and Margaret Duckhorn’s brand. They are justly famous for making the best Merlots in California, and this “easy to drink” bottling is made with grapes from their own estates, in this case a complex blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Carignan.  It’s a pleasing 13.5% alcohol yet has a depth and good tannins to make it a match for tomato sauce pastas, veal chops and burgers.  There are older vintages still available on-line.

 

 

J. LOHR PAPER WHITE UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2024 ($14).  A legitimate criticism of California Chardonnays is that the grape be treated to extensive new oak to add toasty, caramel, smoky flavors that mask whatever innate flavors the grape has, which is of a rather neutral character, which this Arroyo Seco AVA Chard shows by never seeing oak. Frankly, it’s not all that wonderful a wine but it teaches a lesson––that terroir is the most important aspect of Chardonnay, one that Burgundian winemakers have known for the last century. It goes very well with steamed seafood and poached chicken.

 











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ANYTHING ELSE?

"14 Worst Side Dishes To Ever Bring To A BBQ" By Sara Klimek, Food Republic (7/3/26)

Ambrosia salad
Anything cooked in a slow cooker
Potato salad
Shrimp cocktail
Cole slaw
Bean salad
Green salads
Pre-cut fruit
Canned baked beans
Deviled eggs
Temperature-sensitive chips
Mashed potatoes
Chili
Store-bought deli salads




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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2026




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