NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WELL OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY WINES By John Mariani
❖❖❖
THE BIG FREEZE
BY JOHN MARIANI
The
two words "frozen foods" have long been
ignominiously blamed for corrupting world
food culture, under the first assumption
that "fresh" is always better than "frozen"
and that the process ruins flavors, textures
and nutrients. There is also the contention
that eating out-of-season foods year-round
runs counter to all good sense. Much of
that criticism is overly harsh to the point of
obstinacy; some of it is simply wrong.
At its most basic form––one that goes back
millennia in regions where ice has always been
used as a preservative––freezing food saves it
from rot. Indeed, of all means of
preserving––salting, curing, drying,
smoking––it renders the least harm to food.
Properly frozen foods at a temperature below
32º F suspends almost all micro-organisms, and
frozen peas retain essential flavors that
fresh ones, picked, packed, shipped and sold
over days do not. At 10º F ice crystals stop
from forming, which is not the case in a home
freezer.
Flash freezing, which is widely used on
Japanese fishing boats that may be out for
weeks at a time, quickly brings the food down
to -54º F, creating microscopic ice crystals
that keep the cell walls, moisture, texture
and flavor largely intact. In fact, most
fish to be used for sushi in Japan is flash
frozen, and the U.S. FDA Food Code mandates
that fish intended for sushi be frozen at 4°
below for at least seven days to destroy
parasites. So that pristine sushi and sashimi
you have at an expensive omakase counter is
unlikely to have been fresh. It is
certainly true that if you can find fresh food
in the market, it should be seasonal; in a
perfect world, which might include those
restaurants run by three-star chefs those
ingredients come to their back door no
more than twenty-four hours old, that is the
only legitimate definition for "farm to
table." Mark Twain once said that the only way
to eat corn on the cob was to bring a pot of
water into the field, build a fire and boil
the ears right there. Cajun chef Paul
Prudhomme said that he was stymied as to why
his potatoes didn't taste like those his
mother served back home, and she told him,
"Because we dig them out of the ground just
before we cook them."
So
let's not be overly harsh about a process that
has not only made cooking year-round easier
for the happy homemaker but available to
millions of people around
the world who would otherwise have less to eat
or be at the threat of a bad crop of famine.
Use of pesticides and genetic modification of
foods are another issue for another time.
The man responsible for
perfecting the freezing of food was
a fellow named Clarence Birdseye, for whom
the title of a biography, The Adventures
of a Curious Man, is a most apt and accurate
description of a one whose interests included
killing wolves and raising foxes for their
pelts and holding more than 200 patents for
light bulbs, harpoons, and paper made from sugar
cane pulp.
Birdseye
was born in Brooklyn, NY, and grew up as an
outdoorsman, learning taxidermy while a
teenager. He attended but did not graduate from
Amherst College, instead taking a job with the
U.S. Agriculture Dept. in New Mexico and Arizona
as an assistant
naturalist
from 1910-1911, researching the cause of
Rocky Mountain spotted fever, then from
1912-1915, while on assignment to Labrador, he
began research on fast-freezing food whose
rudiments he learned from the ice fishing of
Inuit Indians. He was not the first person to
freeze foods for the commercial market: In 1817
Dr. Kitchner of England froze fish with a brine
of ice and salt, and in 1842 a patent was
granted to Henry Benjamin
and Henry Grafton for freezing fish. By 1861 a
mechanical freezing plant was operating in
Australia, just a few degrees below the freezing
point, allowing for meat to be shipped to the
U.S. The problem with such efforts was that
temperatures were not low enough to prevent
fruit and vegetables from becoming mushy.
On a local level Birdseye found that freezing fish
and other food better preserved it by causing
smaller ice crystals to form. He continued his
experiments in 1922 at the Clothel Refrigerating
Co., with a seven-dollar investment in an electric
fan, brine, and ice, then founded his own,
Birdseye Seafoods Inc., which went bankrupt in
1924. By then, however, he had improved his
process by freezing fish under pressure, between
two refrigerated surfaces under pressure, called
"plate freezing."He thereupon established the General
Seafood Corporation in 1925 in Gloucester, MA.
Two
years later he expanded his operations to
other foods and debuted his patented “Quick
Freeze Machine.”Two years after that, he sold both his
company and patents to Goldman
Sachs Trading Corp.and
the Postum Co. for $22 million, which, as
General Foods Corp., launched the highly
successful Birds Eye Frozen Food Co. in
Springfield, MA, in 1930, shipping products in
refrigerated boxcars. Today the company is
owned by Conagra Foods. According to its
website, its vegetables are "ripened in the
fields," not on the way to market. More than
40% of perishable food in the U.S. is
said to be discarded each year, but not frozen
foods.
Frozen food proved a real
asset for American G.I.s during World War
II, carried on the concrete Barge,
Refrigerated, Large (BRL), which stored 1,500
tons of frozen meat and 500 tons of
vegetables, eggs and dairy and 500 gallons of
ice cream at 15º F. After the war,
with more Americans owning true freezers
rather than ice boxes, packaged frozen
foods became ubiquitous. And however
lacking in flavor Swanson's frozen TV
dinners were upon their introduction
in 1952, they were a complete meal in
three courses one plate popped into the
oven without the need for cooking. Some
will carp that such innovations ruined
American cookery, but the TV Dinners made
sense at a time when millions of Americans
found it tough to make ends meet or
hadn't the time to cook a full meal.
Those lucky enough to
live near a farm or have a weekend farmer's
market might have less reason to buy frozen
food––eschewing sushi––but it's nice to know
that when you need peas for a recipe or feel
like corn on the cob in April, Clarence
Birdseye made it possible.
Birdseye died in NYC
of a heart attack in 1956. According to the
National Inventors Hall of Fame, “Clarence
Birdseye improved the nation's diet and
created a new industry based on his
innovative food preservation processes.”
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
LE PAVILLON
One
Vanderbilt Avenue
212-662-1000
By John
Mariani
For all the
restaurants Daniel Boulud has in New York within
his Dinex Group––Daniel, Le Gratin, Café Boulud,
La Tête d’Or, Maison Barnes,Blue Box
Café, Joji, Épicerie Boulud, Maison Boulud and
Brasserie Boulud––Le Pavillon,now five
years old, may be my favorite in that it is
expressive of his highly personalized French style
within a dynamic 21st century New York design
and featuring reasonable (these days) $145
three-course meal, or you can opt for six courses
at $205. (Three courses at Daniel run $195.)There
are six sparkling wines by the glass,six
white and rosé, five red.
The second-story dining room is stunning,
designed by Isay Weinfeld with a soaring glass
ceiling and an indoor garden arrayed with tall
olive trees and slatted Brazilian wood. You will
be very cordially received by lovely hostesses,
and the staff, from captains and waiters to
sommeliers are quick on their feet and show a
sophisticated professionalism you look for in a
fine French restaurant. As you might expect, the
wine list has exceptional depth and breadth in
every category, with 750 selections, most French.
Management
insists,
“Business
casual attire is strongly recommended. Athletic or
leisure wear is not permitted and gentlemen are
not permitted to wear shorts or sandals in the
dining room.” Still, I’ve seen more than a few
non-gentlemen in t-shirts traipsing through the
restaurant. Don’t be one of those.
The current menu, overseen by exec chef
William Nacev, evokes traditional French cuisine
with wonderful flair, like using an Époisse cheese
emulsion instead of Gruyère atop a Vidalia onion
tart with dandelions and the scent of fresh thyme.
He adds seared bay scallops to his
bouillabaisse, and yellowfin tuna is combined with
fennel pollen with a socca crisp and
tonnato sauce. Falafel joins
charred carrot with a fava leaf and magnolia
blossom chimichurri.
An
excellent Sasso chicken, tender to the bone and
very juicy, came with wonderful morels, a
poached quail egg, summer’s asparagus and a
light Madeira sauce. The saddle of lamb is from
Colorado, served with fava beans and roasted
squash blossoms in a rich jus. A
Frenchi-fied egg-filled raviolo was
more elaborate than the original Italian model
from San Domenico in Imola makes but still
quite good.
There
is a proper selection of cheeses along with
Pastry Chef Yohko Ogata's desserts, including a
proud “Vive La France” rendering of île
flottante with tricolor almond praline and
brioche. Raspberries and rhubarb marry with
almond ice cream and a tarragon sable,
while there is both a milk chocolate mousse with
hazelnut nougatine and chocolate espresso of
black sesame almond sable butter
cookies, chocolate gavotte rolled
crêpes, miso caramel and espresso ice cream.
I do wish they would dress
up the drab
reception room downstairs next to the elevator.
Other than that, Le Pavillon has translated fine,
very accessible, French cuisine into a true New
York idiom of spectacular design and sophisticated
professionalism.
Open for lunch Mon.-Sat.;
Dinner Mon.-Sat.
❖❖❖
THE BISON
By John Mariani
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
CHAPTER THIRTY
First
Katie had to find out where Pierce was on
his ski trip, which she figured would be
easy enough by checking the Swiss newspapers
available at the New York Library on Fifth
Avenue and 42nd Street. She
called David and asked him to join her there
so they could both go through recent
editions more quickly. “I’d love
to,” he said. “I got to like searching through
archives when we were on the Harry Lime story
in London. See you there tomorrow at ten?” Katie loved the Library, from its
marble lions (named Patience and Fortitude)
outside its entrance to the grand Beaux Art
Reading Rooms with their tall windows and
ceilings painted to look like the sky,
stretching for two city blocks. She met David outside the library, and
they climbed the majestic steps to the third
floor and into what had for decades been the
card catalog room, whose index cards were now
all on computers arrayed around the long, wide
oak desks. They approached the Information
Desk to
ask about Swiss newspapers in English or
French (Katie could read the latter) and were
told that the library stocked The Local,
which had just been founded a year earlier,
and NZZ in English (an offshoot of Neue
Zürcher Zeitung, the nation’s largest).
Katie asked for editions from the past month,
then after filling out a request slip, Katie
and David entered the Reading Room to the
left, sat down and waited for their number to
come up on a lighted screen. Within a half hour, they collected
copies of the papers and sat down to go
through them; Katie took NZZ and David
The Local.After
an hour, nothing had turned up, but then David
found an article about a meeting of newspaper
publishers that had taken place ten days
before in Zürich and that Pierce had attended.
As an aside, the paper noted that “South
African publisher Angus Pierce, who has a
residence in St. Moritz. . . .” “That’s where we should go,” said
Katie. “I’m just going to check with his
assistant here in New York if Pierce is still
in Switzerland. She wouldn’t tell me what
city, though.” The two of them gathered up
the newspapers and brought them back to the
collection desk, then they had a quick lunch
at the curving counter of the Grand Central
Oyster Bar two blocks away. The magnificent
restaurant was in the lower level of the
terminal, having opened in 1913, with arched
ceilings tiled by the same artist who’d done
the same work at Ellis Island. Katie
ordered lemon sole, David the famous oyster
stew. “So we just fly to St. Moritz and go
from there?” he said. “I think we probably fly into Zürich or
Geneva, and get up to St. Moritz from there.
We’ll rent a car.” “For your purposes, shouldn’t we at
least stick our toes into Lausanne?” “Good idea. Let me see if I can find
out how long Pierce will be in St. Moritz.” It was too noisy within the crowded
restaurant, so Katie made a call from the
ladies’ room to Pierce’s assistant, asking if
she’d heard from her boss. Solari said she had
but did not have any answer for Katie as to a
possible interview. She said, yes, he was
expected to be in Switzerland for another week
to ten days. Katie and David then
walked into a travel agency located within
Grand Central to ask about flights, car rental
and hotels in St. Moritz, where, this being
the ski season, were very expensive. The travel agent, a woman named
Kristen, who was herself Swiss, said that the
best hotels like Badrutt’s Palace and the
Grand Hôtel des Bains would all cost $500 a
night or more, but that she knew some very
charming small hotels like the Giardino
Mountain (below) where she could
get them a good deal for under $200. “I know the owners,” said Kristen. “A
very nice local couple own it. Very friendly,
and they love Americans. Everyone I’ve sent
there has enjoyed their stay.” She showed them photos, with a big
fireplace in the main room, a beautiful view
of the lake and even a pool, although closed
in winter. Katie and David looked at each other
and agreed it looked perfect. They then booked
flights to Zurich, which was just
two-and-a-half hours’ train ride from St.
Moritz. “It’s a beautiful train ride through
the mountains,” said Kristen. “Then if you
need a car you can rent one when you get to
St. Moritz.” Katie and David left feeling they had
accomplished a great deal in a short time,
with their flights leaving the next evening. “I don’t suppose you ski?” Katie asked
him. “No, but I’m thinking of trying it up
where I live. There’s a ski area near West
Point. What about you?” “I used to ski in the Catskills at
Windham,” said Katie, “but it’s been years. I
don’t suppose we’ll have to escape Pierce’s
clutches on skis.” “Like Bond did in On Her Majesty’s
Secret Service, with Blofeld hot on his
trail? Or maybe we can just sled downhill. I
was a good sledder growing up. Ever heard of
Shoelace Park in the Bronx?” “Sure have! I loved sledding there.
Also Claremont Park near 172nd
Street.” “Well, one conveyance at a time. So,
I’ll see you at check-in at the Swissair
counter tomorrow around two?” “Sounds good,” said Katie. “We can plan
how to charm our way into Pierce’s ski lodge
on the flight over.”
*
* *
Katie
and David landed in Zurich at eight in the
morning and took the train to St.
Moritz—they planned to go to Lausanne
afterwards—and it was indeed a stunningly
beautiful Alpine landscape just beginning
to ebb towards springtime, with the
mountains yawing
away in the distance. After
two and a half hours, as the train pulled
into the modest
St. Moritz station, David saw that its
tower clock showed that they had arrived
precisely on time. He also noticed a
vintage Rolls Royce with a driver in
livery and a sign reading “BADRUTTS
PALACE.” Katie and David took a far less
luxurious taxi to their hotel, the
Giardino, with its welcoming arched
doorway set in a chalet-like structure.
Inside was the very large fireplace,
surrounded by green and scarlet sofas, the
ceiling beamed. They were cordially
greeted by one of the owners, named Greta,
who offered them tea in front of the fire
while their luggage was taken to their
rooms. Katie
asked her host some idle, tourist
questions about restaurants and
activities, then told the woman that she
was an American journalist doing a story
on the town’s social life. “It’s
winding down now,” said Greta, with barely
a trace of an accent, “after a very busy
season. We had a large influx of Russians
this year”—which she said with an obvious
sour look on her face—"and it’s picked up
a great deal since 9/11. Of course, our
regular guests still came, and a lot of
those who have long had homes here stayed
for longer than usual.” Katie
asked, “I understand there are many quite
famous names who come year every year?” “Oh,
yes, indeed. Mostly they stay at Badrutt's
(right) or the Grand Hotel or the
Kulm, but, as I said, many have homes
here.” Playing
innocent, Katie asked, “Who are some of
the celebrated people who have homes
here?” “Well,
they are not all celebrated. Many are
very, very wealthy, even aristocratic—the
Swedish Royal family comes every year—but
they try to stay out of the limelight.
Otherwise, this season we have had those
models like Kate Moss and Claudia
Schiffer, and that American actorRobert
DeNiro. That type of celebrity goes to the
bars like the King’s Club or Devil’s
Place.” David
said, “I would have thought the Swedish
Royal family had enough snow in their own
country.” “Oh,
I’m sure they do ,” said Greta, “but St.
Moritz seems to offer a good deal more to
do than Stockholm, and they meet their own
kind here, like Alexander and Maxima of
the Netherlands, and Prince Edward and the
Countess of Wessex from England. We also
get people come here just to see where two
James Bond movies were filmed.” David
said, “I know The Spy Who Loved Me
shot scenes here.” (left) “Yes,
and of course, Alfred Hitchcock spent his
honeymoon at Badrutt’s.” Katie
felt she could then ask, “And some fly in
on their private planes?” “Oh,
yes, it’s a small airport, so we don’t
have the major carriers come here.” “Do
you happen to know if the newspaper
magnate Angus Pierce comes here often?” “Oh,
yes. As a matter of fact, he’s been here
quite a lot this season, with his son
Richard. They have a beautiful house in
the Upper Valley of Engadin.” “Is
that far?” “No,
no, just about twenty minutes. Why, do you
know the Pierces?” “Not
really,” said Katie. “I thought he might
figure into my story about the social life
here.” “Well,
his son is far more social than his
father. He comes into town all
the time, goes to the bars and casinos.
His father skis the slopes and comes in
for parties.” “Parties
at the hotels?” asked David. “No,
I think they are usually at private
homes.” David
and Katie looked at each other, comparing
mental notes. Katie
continued to ask some general questions
about the social scene in town, then asked
to be shown to their rooms, which looked
out on the pine-filled mountain lowlands.
The rooms were somewhat more modern than
they expected but kept within the decorous
touches of an Alpine lodge. They decided
to have a late lunch downstairs at the
hotel’s casual restaurant Stüva, (left)
which was very much rustic in décor, with
furniture that looked like it came out of
a Heidi storybook, with rough wood
paneling and slate floor. David
said, “I am famished after that train
ride.”
“Me,
too,” she said. “That mountain air really
does have an effect on the appetite,
doesn’t it?”
Katie ordered marinated
trout and tagliolini pasta with guanciale
bacon; David had beef tartare with a
horseradish mayonnaise and the
restaurant’s specialty, Wiener schnitzel
with lingonberries and fried potatoes.
They shared a hazelnut tart with meringue
for dessert.
Over coffee they
discussed how best to approach Angus
Pierce’s chalet.
“We can’t exactly show
up at his front door,” said Katie.
“Or sneak in the back,”
David replied.
“I think what we need
is an introduction. How about if we try to
find Pierce’s son Richard at one of the
clubs in town?”
“Aren’t they all
private?”
“I’m sure some are, but
there would be more action at some of the
more public places, don’t you
think?” David laughed.
“You’re asking me? The only time I got
into any ‛clubs’ was when we got a court
order to search some mob hang-out.”
“Like that, what was it
called in The Sopranos?”
“Club Bada Bing? I
guess so. I hated that show. Bullshit from
one episode to another. And, of course, so
full of Italian mobster stereotypes it was
a freakin’ farce. Tony Soprano wouldn’t
have lasted ten minutes in a real mob.
Maybe a Jersey mob, but certainly not
Brooklyn.”
Katie said she shared
David’s dislike for the TV series and the
way it treated Italian-American characters
as mindless murderers.
“Analyze This,
with DeNiro and Billy Crystal, now that
was a funny movie. Also a farce but
good-natured, y’know?”
“Right, a parody.
Everybody overacting for effect.”
“Exactly,” said David.
“I knew cops who worked on the locations
for that movie. DeNiro and Chazz
Palminteri were great with the local cops.
Crystal was apparently a
dickhead.”
“Okay, so back on the
trail of Richard Pierce: I’m sure Greta
can guide us. I think she’s a pretty
willing gossip and likes Americans. For
now, let’s get some rest and then go
party, eh?”
“Not sure I packed the
right party clothes,” said David.
“We can ask about that,
too.”
Greta’s suggestions as
to the prospects of finding Richard Pierce
in town met Katie’s expectations. “The
King’sClub is the oldest,” she said.
“It’s at Badrutt. The Italians go to the
Diamond Club. The Roo Bar is passé and
gets foreign tourists. The English favor
the Hato.” “So,
Richard might go to any of those?” asked
David. “He
belongs to some of the private clubs in
town, but I know he goes to the Kings Club
(left). He has lunch on the
mountain at the Corveglia Club, which goes
back to the 1930s and is very exclusive.
Also, The Dracula, which has been around
since the 1970s, gets
a certain kind of, what you call
Euro-Trash? It was opened by that fashion
photographer Gunter Sachs. He married
Brigitte Bardot, you know. His son Rolf
now runs it.” “Any
chance
of getting into any of the private ones?”
asked Katie. “I
could
probably get you into the Corveglia for
lunch. But since you are a journalist
doing a story on the social scene here,
you should speak to a local journalist
here who covers that. Her name is
Alessandra Baldassari— she’s Italian
Swiss—and works for The Local.” “The
English
language paper?” asked Katie. “Yes,
she
covers the
St. Moritz social scene for them. She
claims she has some aristocratic blood in
her and acts like it, but she is very good
at what she does. I’ll call her for you.
I’m sure she’d want to meet you.” Katie
and
David expressed their gratitude and asked
when Greta might be able to contact
Baldassari.
“First thing in the
morning. Well, maybe late morning.
Alessandra stays out late and wakes up
late.”
It’s easy enough to
understand why so many vintners on so many counties
make so many of the same varietal wines: The
best-selling wines (not in order) are Cabernet
Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot
Gris (Grigio). When
I’ve asked winemakers in countries with little or no
experience growing these varietals why they would
rip out traditional varietals and re-plant with themost
popular ones. This has resulted in so many––perhaps
most––of these wines tasting the same, because,
obviously, they’re all made from the same grapes and
aim for a style that consumers seem to prefer, like
punch-like Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand. Things
can get pretty boring.
Fortunately a good number of more imaginative
vintners stillmake varietals that are more historically
traditional or even indigenous. Some younger
vineyard owners are bringing back little known
varietals or treating popular ones with innovation.
Here is a grab bag of out-of-the-ordinary wines I’ve
been delighted to drink as refreshing alternatives
to the tried-and-true.
TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES EXTREMO MALBEC
2022 ($40).The
estate plays on the description of this Argentinian
wine as its“most
elevated expression of Malbec to date” as part of
their decades-long “Ascension Journey,” referring to
plantings at higher and higher altitudes, in this
cased from a single parcel
in El Espinillo, the highest vineyard it
Gualtallary on Yungato, 5,380 feet above sea
level. The cool temperatures at that height allow
for gentle nurturing in sandy loam
soils with calcareous to provide minerality. The
30-year-old estate. Led byLucas
Löwi, uses grapes from more than 100 plots to
blend this signature Malbec (13.5% alcohol), which
is excellent with all red meats and hearty soups.
DOMAINE
NICO SŒUR ET FRÈRES GRAND PÉRE PINOT NOIR 2022
($35). Another high-altitude red, this from the Uco Valley in
Domaine Nico collects its grapes from 3,675 and
4,921 feet above sea level. The soils is rich in
limestone conducive to Pinot Noir. Owner Laura
Catena, herself a Francophile, and winemaker Roy
Urvieta respect the grape’s style in Burgundy––where
the slopes rarely top 1,000 feet––but seek to show
off what the terroir of Mendoza can achieve. “WhenI realized
we could make a Pinot Noir with the classic floral
aromas, minerality and elegance,” says Catena “we
began studying the flavours of high altitude Pinot
Noir from Mendoza.” They are beautiful wines,
elegant and silky but with a richness not as
readily found in Burgundian bottlings below the
Grand Cry level.
DECOY RED BLEND 2023($25).
Decoy is the second label of Dan and Margaret
Duckhorn’s brand. They are justly famous for making
the best Merlots in California, and this “easy to
drink” bottling is made with grapes from their own
estates, in this case a complex blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Malbec,
Petit Verdot, Syrah and Carignan. It’s a
pleasing 13.5% alcohol yet has a depth and good
tannins to make it a match for tomato sauce pastas,
veal chops and burgers.There are
older vintages still available on-line.
J. LOHR PAPER WHITE UNOAKED
CHARDONNAY 2024 ($14).A legitimate criticism of California
Chardonnays is that the grape be treated to
extensive new oak to add toasty, caramel, smoky
flavors that mask whatever innate flavors the grape
has, which is of a rather neutral character, which
this Arroyo Seco AVA Chard shows by never seeing
oak. Frankly, it’s not all that wonderful a wine but
it teaches a lesson––that terroir is the most
important aspect of Chardonnay, one that Burgundian
winemakers have known for the last century. It goes
very well with steamed seafood and poached chicken.
❖❖❖
ANYTHING ELSE?
"14 Worst
Side Dishes To Ever Bring To A BBQ" By Sara
Klimek, Food Republic (7/3/26)
Ambrosia
salad
Anything cooked in a slow cooker
Potato salad
Shrimp cocktail
Cole slaw
Bean salad
Green salads
Pre-cut fruit
Canned baked beans
Deviled eggs
Temperature-sensitive chips
Mashed potatoes
Chili
Store-bought deli salads
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.