MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

JULY 12, 2026                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 

 


Founded in 1996 

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"Marseille Fish Market" By Raoul Dufy (1903).

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THIS WEEK
DINING OUT IN LISBON
PART THREE


NEW YORK
CHATTI BY REGI MATHEW
By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWENTY-NINE

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER
RUMS UPCOMING

By John Mariani



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DINING OUT IN LISBON
Part THREE
By John Mariani



K.O.B.

 

       It is testament to modern Lisbon that, in addition to so many fine old and new Portuguese restaurants throughout the city, the gastronomic offerings have become wonderfully expanded to include Japanese (which I shall cover in the near future) to Italian, steakhouses, vegetarian, French, Mexican, Australian, even Nepali. On my trip this spring I found one excellent trattoria and a steakhouse that would be something unique even in New York.

OSTERIA LA FAMIGLIA (Rua da Escola Politécnica 247) is a sunny trattoria on a side street, with three rooms, one with a marble counter, another with a glowing wine wall and a third mirrored and tiled. It is, thankfully, a vibrant but not loud place with fine tablesettings a and a feeling in each room of civilized intimacy.

The menu reflects an intent to balance the favorite Italian classics with new items. Simplicity and great ingredients is stressed, obvious in a plate of very sweet small tomatoes dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, accompanied by good foccacia with  Parmigiano butter.  A shiny ball of artisanal  burrata revealed the requisite creamy interior, sided with a pesto rim.  Polenta croccante were composed of cornmeal, parmigiano and honey,

Among the pastas is a large raviolo within which chopped spinach an egg yolk has been cooked  by the heat, so it flows in a golden elixir onto the warmed plate. A traditional pappardelle alla bolognese was very true to form in its blend of vegetable and tomato and ground meat, best only by the lasagne alla bolognese with its layers of creamy besciamella. Trecce al pesto was, however bland and olive-colored rather than green. The pastas ranged from 16 euros to 22 euros.

Potatoes were crushed with black truffles, nest to an impeccable veal cutlet alla milanese cooked in butter with grated egg and parsley.
    The best of the desserts was a lemon meringue tart and the housemade gelato.
    There are several signature cocktails and a wine list of about 100 labels, including many Portuguese bottlings.

 

K.O.B (Rua do Salitre 169) is a glamorous steakhouse, though without the enormity and impersonality of a Las Vegas example, and tables are well situated from one another. The  lighting is shadowy and soft upon the tables. There is some music but it’s in the background.  As you pass through the entrance you’ll see a remarkable variety of twelve beef cuts from several countries, but not the U.S., which means most are grass fed. Indeed, all ingredients are local, nothing commercial.

The wine list is solid with a list of depth that shows how far Portuguese wines have come in the last decade, with bottles I can only wish would get exported to the U.S.

The tables are broad enough to hold the big platters of food to come, and you get your choice of steak knives, a harmless pretense.

A basket of French baguette, olive bread and tuna pâté are set down on the table, ad we began an extensive meal with silky slices of Iberian ham (they serve four kinds) and cheese-rich croquettes (left). Then came slices of chorizo from the pata negro pig with amazing flavor; softer than Mexican versions, this chorizo almost melted in your mouth, slightly gamey, not too hot. Rice and beans and mixed vegetables came with the three steak cuts we ordered: a wagyu from Chile, a Portuguese Angus inner cut and a superb Argentinian ribeye, with creamed spinach. Fried potatoes hit the spot with this abundance of beef.

The desserts include an American-style deep dish apple pie with vanilla ice cream, soft-centered chocolate  lava tart (right) and a very good cheesecake.

 

 

 

 

 

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NEW YORK CORNER


CHATTI BY REGI MATHEW

                                                        252 West 37th Street

                                                              212-994-9599

By John Mariani

Photos by Alex Stanil




       Over the past year or so I have been amazed at the number of innovative Indian restaurants that have opened in New York among scores of more traditional places in every borough. But if I’d never eaten Indian food before, the year-old Chatti by Regi Mathew would have enlightened me to the idea that it is among the exciting in the world. The irony is that Mathew’s food tastes like nothing I have had before, for it is based specifically on the cooking of his home region of Kerala on the southwestern coast, which drew Portuguese, Arabic and Dutch traders whose own foods influenced Kerala’s. Lest we forget, the Portuguese brought the chile pepper (from South America) to India around 1500, which transformed food on the sub-continent.
      
Kerala uses a good deal of chile peppers for heat but at Chatti they are wonderfully moderated by a careful balance of many spices. This is true throughout India, but I have not found quite the complexity of flavors I did when I dined at Chatti. It was a revelation.
    The two-level restaurant is done in earth tones accented by laser-cut copper artworks depicting daily maritime life in Kerala. The tables and chairs are fashioned from lovely Nilambur teak wood, and there is a handsome bar area decorated with wood, wrought iron and hanging copper lamps; upstairs is a private room for parties.

There is an impressive selection of signature cocktails made with exotic herbs and spices.

      One begins a meal at Chatti (which means “clay pot”) with a sip of warm pink water infused with sappan         wood to calm the spirit and prepare the appetite. Matthew calls his restaurant a “toddy shop,” which in India     is a casual taverna whose patrons drink palm toddy made from coconut or palm and nosh on small plates of   food with various degrees of heat, rather like tapas bars. Portions are certainly not small at Chatti but come on a highly colorful array of ceramics.

Best thing to do is to allow yourself to be guided by Mathew or his staff to the specialties here, beginning with a moilee seafood soup in coconut milk and spices;  the rasa-vada gram fritters give texture to a sweet and tangy  tomato and tamarind soup.

Marinades are essential to  bring together so many spices so the masala marinated with gooseberries is then grilled on the tawa in the tradition of tribal cookery. Meen polichathú marinated in onion and tomato is seafood grilled within a banana leaf, while a dish from Sri Lanka called maanthai is a richly flavorful sole marinated then fried. The hot dried beef is more tender than you find elsewhere.,

There are a dozen meat and seafood curries and eight vegetarian. In so many Indian restaurants these seem made from just one of two sauce bases, but here each one is cooked according to an individual recipe so that each succeeds theother with entirely new flavors and textures, like the fiery hot kudampuliyitta meen of seafood matured overnight in an earthen pot, and the black chickpea curry. There is even a kadachakka breadfruit curry (remember how in Mutiny on the Bounty breadfruit was worth sailing halfway around the world for?).

So, too, the breads are somewhat different from the usual paratha and naan: Here the homestyle  “petit  hoppers” kunjappam are made from rice flour, and the Malabar fried bread is delicious. There are also white rice dumplings bobbing in coconut milk, a dish from Central Travancore, and six varieties of rice dishes.

Those who shrug at Indian desserts have never had Chatti’s, like the festive palad of slowly cooked rice flakes in milk or the coconut pancake rolls with purple taro ice cream  or the "cloud pudding" (left).

 

Mathew, who runs restaurants in India, has brought something to  New York that is rare and highly personalized.  As he says, every dish and every meal tells a story of culture. It is well worth immersing yourself in his.

 

 Open for lunch Mon.-Sat.; Dinner nightly; Brunch Sun.

 












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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell


CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE

    On the FBI's advice, Sarah Doyle’s parents filed a missing persons request, but nothing had turned up about the girl’s whereabouts more than a week after they acted on it. There had been people in Palm Beach who recalled meeting her, but neither the FBI nor the Pam Beach Police found find any records of such a person using credit cards over that six-months’ period. It was assumed that Epstein would never have allowed the girls to possess one, instead giving them cash if they needed something or had Maxwell or someone else buy it for them.
       There was a record of a girl fitting Doyle’s description showing up at the Emergency Room at Good Samaritan Medical Center in West Palm Beach a week or two before the alleged murder, but before she was admitted or gave information someone came and took her away. The admitting nurse said she recalled the girl had bruises on her wrists but did not seem in pain. The nurse didn’t remember anything about the man who picked Doyle up because he was standing  thirty feet away at the hospital entrance and merely crooked his hand to mean she was to leave with him immediately.
       Katie kept Dobell informed of all details, such as they were, on the investigation, and her editor was becoming worried that the story was falling apart.
       Katie said, “Why is it falling apart, Alan? We know what’s been going on with Epstein for years. The feds are getting closer to uncovering all his financial malfeasance. People are getting scared, and they probably haven’t even heard about Sarah Doyle’s murder.”
       “Alleged murder. On the hearsay of a call girl who wasn’t even in the house when it was supposed to have happened. I’m not saying that even without this murder there’s probably a good story— as you and I originally envisioned it— about the power, the money and the sex. But that will depend on how much and how fast the feds can move on Epstein. If they do, it will blow up in all his friends’ faces, and they’ll scatter like rats.”               “They are all rats,” she said.
     “Probably true, but unless someone can find that girl’s body, which, to quote a famous line, probably ‛sleeps with the fishes.’”
       “Okay, and what about Pierce. He does know what happened, and he does know that David and I have been snooping around. I’ sure he was the one who wanted to buy McClure’s. By the way, anything new on that?”           “Not a word from any quarter. I think it’s a dead deal. Whoever it was pulled out.”
       “Which, Alan, leaves  David and me in what I think is considerable danger.”
       Dobell sighed. “Somehow, Katie, I can imagine Pierce having a night of rough sex and the girl dying from an overdose or asphyxiation or something. But that doesn’t make him a guy who’ll go around knocking off ex-cops and current journalists.”
       Katie shook her head at how many times she heard a version of that irrelevancy.
       “And what about Ghislaine? She believes Pierce killed her father and told me to watch my back.”
       “What she wants to believe about Pierce killing off Maxwell to get his empire at a time when Maxwell was drowning anyway in debt and was a very sick man who might not have lived very long is far from a tight case against Pierce. The official investigation made no such accusations.”
       “Yeah, but it didn’t say why Maxwell went overboard one way or the other. Ghislaine said suicide is something her tough old papa would never think of doing.”
       Dobell shook his head. “What can I say, Katie? We’re just going to have to wait to hear what happens with the feds and you can keep digging—in your spare time, because I think you should start working on some other story.”
       Katie, thinking of all the times she and David had almost been murdered,  threw up her hands and said, “So, meanwhile I should just go around without a care in the world that someone might want to knock me off? It would be in all of Epstein’s friends’ interest to see me go away.”
       “How about if I send you away,” said Dobell, “on another assignment, outside the U.S. Then your mystery assassins will just drop the whole idea because they don’t think you’re a threat anymore.”
       “Where’d you have in mind? Timbuktu?”
       “You know, I’ve never actually known where Timbuktu is, but it sounds far away.”
       “It’s a city in Mali.”
       “Hmm, anything happening in Mali?”
       “Be serious, Alan. I can see going away might be a good idea till things either cool down or come to a head.”
       “Well,” said Dobell, “poke around and see where’s there’s something going on you can blow the lid off. Outside the U.S. But, hey, I’m not paying for David to go with you.”
       “Understood,” she said, and left his office.
       Katie didn’t have a clue where she might go for a story big enough to make her absence known. But, after a moment’s thought, she realized where she really needed to go.
       She returned to her desk and called Angus Pierce’s office, asking to speak with Andrea Solari.
       “How can I help you, Ms. Cavuto?”
       “Thank you for taking my call,” said Katie. “As you suggested, I never did hear back from Mr. Pierce, but I am going off on a trip—”
       “A vacation, I hope?”
       “No, on assignment for a story. It will take some time to work on. But before leaving I thought I’d give it once more try to see if I might speak with Mr. Pierce.”
      
“Well, I’ll be happy to pass your request on to him.”
       “Is he back in South Africa?”
       “No, he’s actually back in Switzerland with his son, Richard. They are both avid skiers.”
       “I think you said he was in Gstaad?”
       “I don’t believe I did, but he’s not.”
       Katie didn’t want to push her queries too far.
       “Well, then, Ms. Solari, I won’t take up any more of your time. If you speak to Mr. Pierce, tell him I’ll always have my cell phone wherever I might be.”
       “I don’t expect to be hearing from him until at least next week.”
       The call ended, Katie dialed David.
       “Hey, you ever been to Switzerland?”


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       Katie knew she was going out on a creaking limb by trying to meet with Pierce in Switzerland, not least because she would have to make up an unrelated story for Dobell to approve after telling her he wanted her out of harm’s way. Since Dobell did not know of Pierce’s whereabouts he would not be suspicious if Katie found a story to pursue in Switzerland.
       “Alan, I think I’ve got a good story prospect for us in Switzerland,” she said to him on the phone, after deciding she couldn’t look him straight in the eye.
       “What did you have in kind?” he asked.
       “The International Olympic Committee.”
       “What about it?”
       “I got a lead that at least two on the Committee may have been bought as to who gets the 2016 games.”               “And how do you know this?”
       “Well, like I said, I have a lead from someone who says that the fix seems to be in for Brazil.”
      “Well, Katie, you do know that all these Committee guys are always wined and dined for years by competing cities. Even more than the commissioners of the NFL.”
       “I know,” she said, “but this seems to be about money changing hands. Big Brazilian billionaire types buying votes.”
       Dobell thought for a moment, then said, “How sure are you about this?”
       “Obviously I’m not, but if you want to get me out of the country, you can send me to Lausanne where the IOC is headquartered.”
       Katie had, in fact, heard from a reporter she knew at Sports Illustrated who’d said there was a rumor going around but that his magazine didn’t want to pursue it so early, before a decision on the city was getting close. She made somewhat more out of that information than she should have with Dobell, but said, “Maybe it’s a long shot, but if it is a real story, I’ll bring it back to you.”
       Dobell thought some more then said, “Okay, fly off to Lausanne. Beautiful, nice, safe city. Just try not to spend too much. And I’m not paying for David.”
       “Got it,” said Katie. “Okay, I’ll leave as soon as I gather some more info.”
       Dobell had not told Katie that he’d already spoken to Roger Sheridan about his idea to send Katie out of the country, and, after hearing that Angus Pierce might be the one who made the bid on McClure’s, the publisher told Dobell by all means to get Katie out of the way. Apparently he, too, hated Pierce and his tactics and knew only too well how Katie had already put her life on the line on other stories she’d done for the magazine.               Katie hung up her phone and smiled at the prospect of going to Lausanne, which was not where Pierce was in Switzerland. Then she stopped smiling and thought, “My God, I’m putting myself right in the lion’s mouth!”




 
© John Mariani, 2024






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NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER



RUM UPCOMING

By John Mariani


 


       My favorite cocktail is a daiquiri, which was my father’s, too. Since he frequented two or three restaurants regularly, the bartenders never needed to be told what he wanted; they just made a daiquiri and it was on the table as soon as he sat down.

       These days American bartenders so often haven’t a clue how to make a classic daiquiri––rum, lime juice, sugar––with excuses like “We don’t have a blender” or responses like “Banana or raspberry?” Oddly enough, bartenders in Europe know the recipe without my having to tell them.

       I prefer a gold rum, but a white rum is just fine. But when you get into very heavy, dark rums, the balance goes off. Those rums are for sipping, and there is an increasing number of them in the market, without considering the abominable spiced rums like Captain Morgan’s.  Here are some I’ve been delighted with.

       Mount Gay, established in 1703 in Barbados, makes several traditional rums, but they have now released two “Exceptionally Aged”:  15YO ($90), made by three Master Blenders: Jerry Edwards, Allen Smith and Trudiann Branker, is a gold fifteen-year-old beauty with a rich, round flavor and a nice hint of sweetness and mellow heat. It is 43% alcohol and could easily be paired with spicy grilled foods. Only 4,942 bottles produced. The 25YO ($110) was distilled in 1999, with the aging process ended in 2024, and the rum bottled last January.  It emerges at 47% alcohol, but its boldness is just part of the complexity that gives up Caribbean spice flavors (without adding them), vanilla and fine aromas. Only 2,376 bottles were made for worldwide consumption.

       Oxbow is made in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, a state that has 17 sugar cane mills and a few distilleries are bringing back what had been a significant rum industry on colonial times, but the growers found there was more profit in shipping raw sugar north than selling rum.  In any case, there are now more than a dozen distilleries, and Oxtail, was founded in 2017 by a family involved  in sugarcane production for 160 years. Their rums are all premium single estates  with sugarcane from their own farms in Pointe Coupee Parish.  The False Rver Estate Dark Rum ($33) is distilled from an all-molasses fermentation, put in American oak barrels and bottled in small batches. Its Estate White Rum ($35), at 45% alcohol, is perfect for a rum cocktail. Its Barrel Aged Straight Rum ($50) is unfiltered for more nuance. They also make a Rhum Louisiane Unaged Agricole ($50) that is made from freshly pressed cane juice and distilled within hours.
       Some other  Louisiana rums included Bayou Rum, in   Lacassine; Bayou Terrebonne Distillers in Houma; Noel Distillery in Donaldsonville; and Sugarfield Spirits in Gonzales.

       Ozama, from the Dominican Republic, which is blanketed by sugarcane fields, is  made by former Hall of Fame player David “Big Papi”  Ortiz and is best known for its añejo aged rums for very reasonable prices. The Gran Añejo  ($45) is  refined in its flavor and aroma, excellent over ice as an aperitif or as a sipping rum or   neat on the veranda.

       Don Q is a popular  Puerto Rican brand crafted since 1865 by  the family-owned Destilería Serrallés since 1865.   Don Q Reserva 7 ($36) is aged a minimum  of 7 years in American white oak barrels, with some subtle citrus notes along with coffee and chocolate bean flavors. Its Gran Riserva ($59) is a blend of rums aged 9–12 years (plus select Solera rums up to 50 years), and shows fine finesse and a good ballast at the finish. Don Q 151º is a whopping 75% alcohol with a good edge of oak, It won a silver medal in the Madrid International Rum Conference in 2016. Its website suggests it would be good in piña colada, and, since the cream of coconut can easily overwhelm a lighter rum this makes good sense.       
  Copalli Rum out of the Belizean rain forest is committed to sustainability in its organic farming practices, helping the Rainforest Trust fund the creation of the Jaguar Corridor in Belize, that connects the Maya Forest and the Maya Mountains Massif, home to jaguars and other endangered species. That said, they use only rainwater and non-GMO yeast for fermentation. Their Barrel Rested Rum ($40) and Five Year Aged Rum ($80) are very well crafted and have a notable complexity.

    Santa Teresa 1796 comes from Venezuela, and its Triple Aged Solera Rum ($40) is a beautiful example with some rums in the blend up to 35 years of age, and every bottle has some of the Ron Madre (mother rum) from solera casks in 1992. As with Sherry, the solera process uses rows of hogshead barrels with the oldest on the bottom and youngest on top. They are then further aged on French Limousin oak and blended. It is 46% alcohol.


 








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AND THEN THE KITCHEN DOOR FLUNG OPEN AND THERE STOOD.......


    “‘Of course,’ Tom Colicchio said flatly, his piercing blue eyes surveying the room almost warily. It was hard not to read his coolness as a guard-up defense against sentimentality when there were still meals to be served, a job to be finished. And maybe against something else."––
By Ted Genoways, "Tom Colicchio’s Final Service," Esquire (July 2026).

 




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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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