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MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet JULY 12, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() "Marseille Fish Market" By Raoul Dufy (1903).
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THIS WEEK DINING OUT IN LISBON PART THREE NEW YORK CHATTI BY REGI MATHEW By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER RUMS UPCOMING By John Mariani ❖❖❖
DINING OUT IN LISBON Part THREE By John Mariani ![]() K.O.B.
It is testament to
modern Lisbon that, in addition to so many
fine old and new Portuguese restaurants
throughout the city, the gastronomic
offerings have become wonderfully expanded
to include Japanese (which I shall cover in
the near future) to Italian, steakhouses,
vegetarian, French, Mexican, Australian,
even Nepali. On my trip this spring I found
one excellent trattoria and a steakhouse
that would be something unique even in New
York.
The menu reflects an
intent to balance the favorite Italian
classics with new items. Simplicity and great
ingredients is stressed, obvious in
Potatoes were crushed
with black truffles, nest to an impeccable
veal cutlet alla milanese cooked in butter
with grated egg and parsley.
The wine list is solid
with a list of depth that shows how far
Portuguese wines have come in the last decade,
with bottles I can only wish would get
exported to the U.S. The tables are broad
enough to hold the big platters of food to
come, and you get your choice of steak knives,
a harmless pretense.
The desserts include an
American-style deep dish apple pie with
vanilla ice cream, soft-centered
chocolate lava tart (right) and a
very good cheesecake. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
CHATTI BY REGI MATHEW
252 West 37th Street 212-994-9599 By John MarianiPhotos by Alex Stanil ![]()
Over the past year or so I
have been amazed at the number of innovative
Indian restaurants that have opened in New
York among scores of more traditional places
in every borough. But if I’d never eaten
Indian food before, the year-old Chatti by
Regi Mathew would have enlightened me to the
idea There is an impressive selection of
signature cocktails made with exotic herbs and
spices. ![]() Best thing to do is to allow yourself to
be guided by Mathew or his staff to the
specialties here, beginning with a moilee
seafood soup in coconut milk and spices;
the rasa-vada gram fritters give texture
to a sweet and tangy tomato
and tamarind soup. Marinades are essential to bring
together so many spices so the masala
marinated with gooseberries is then grilled on
the tawa in the tradition of tribal
cookery. Meen polichathú marinated in
onion and tomato is seafood grilled within a
banana There are a dozen meat and seafood curries
and eight vegetarian. In so many Indian
restaurants these seem made from just one of two
sauce bases, but here each one is cooked
according to an individual recipe so that each
succeeds the So,
too, the breads are somewhat different from the
usual paratha
and naan: Here the homestyle “petit
hoppers” kunjappam are made from Those
who shrug at Indian desserts have never had
Chatti’s, like the festive palad of
slowly cooked rice flakes in milk or the coconut
pancake rolls with purple taro ice cream
or the "cloud pudding" (left). Mathew, who runs restaurants
in India, has brought something to New York
that is rare and highly personalized. As he
says, every dish and every meal tells a story of
culture. It is well worth immersing yourself in
his.
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THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE On
the FBI's advice, Sarah Doyle’s parents
filed a missing persons request, but
nothing had turned up about the girl’s
whereabouts more than a week after they
acted on it. There had been people in
Palm Beach who recalled meeting her, but
neither the FBI nor the Pam Beach Police
found find any records of such a person
using credit cards over that six-months’
period. It was assumed that Epstein
would never have allowed the girls to
possess one, instead giving them cash if
they needed something or had Maxwell or
someone else buy it for them.
Katie knew she
was going out on a creaking limb by trying
to meet with Pierce in Switzerland, not
least because she would have to make up an
unrelated story for Dobell to approve
after telling her he wanted her out of
harm’s way. Since Dobell did not know of
Pierce’s whereabouts he would not be
suspicious if Katie found a story to
pursue in Switzerland.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM
THE SPIRITS LOCKER RUM UPCOMING By John Mariani ![]()
My favorite cocktail
is a daiquiri, which was my father’s, too. Since he
frequented two or three restaurants regularly, the
bartenders never needed to be told what he wanted;
they just made a daiquiri and it was on the table as
soon as he sat down.
These days American bartenders so often
haven’t a clue how to make a classic daiquiri––rum,
lime juice, sugar––with excuses like “We don’t have
a blender” or responses like “Banana or raspberry?”
Oddly enough, bartenders in Europe know the recipe
without my having to tell them.
I prefer a gold rum, but a white rum is just
fine. But when you get into very heavy, dark rums,
the balance goes off. Those rums are for
sipping, and there is an increasing number of them
in the market, without considering the abominable
spiced rums like Captain Morgan’s. Here are
some I’ve been delighted with.
Oxbow is made in Baton Rouge,
Louisiana, a state that has 17 sugar cane mills and
a few distilleries are bringing back what had been a
significant rum industry on colonial times, but the
growers found there was more profit in shipping raw
sugar north than selling rum. In any
case, there are now more than a dozen distilleries,
and Oxtail, was founded in 2017 by a family involved
in
sugarcane production for 160 years. Their rums are
all premium single estates with sugarcane from
their own farms in Pointe Coupee Parish. The False
Rver Estate Dark Rum ($33) is distilled from an
all-molasses fermentation, put in American oak
barrels and bottled in small batches. Its Estate
White Rum ($35), at 45% alcohol, is perfect for a
rum cocktail. Its Barrel Aged Straight Rum ($50) is
unfiltered for more nuance. They also make a Rhum
Louisiane Unaged Agricole ($50) that is made from
freshly pressed cane juice and distilled within
hours.
Don Q is a popular Puerto Rican
brand crafted since 1865 by the
family-owned Destilería Serrallés since 1865. Don Q Reserva 7 ($36) is aged a
minimum of 7 years in
American white oak barrels, with some subtle citrus
notes along with coffee and chocolate bean flavors.
Its Gran Riserva ($59) is a blend of rums aged 9–12
years (plus select Solera rums up to 50 years), and
shows fine finesse and a good ballast at the finish.
Don Q 151º is a whopping 75% alcohol with
Santa Teresa 1796 comes from Venezuela, and
its Triple Aged Solera Rum ($40) is a beautiful
example with some rums in the blend up to 35 years
of age, and every bottle has some of the Ron Madre
(mother rum) from solera casks in 1992. As with
Sherry, the solera process uses rows of hogshead
barrels with the oldest on the bottom and youngest
on top. They are then further aged on French
Limousin oak and blended. It is 46% alcohol. ❖❖❖ ![]() AND THEN THE KITCHEN DOOR FLUNG OPEN AND THERE STOOD.......
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
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