MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  February 6, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 

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IN THIS ISSUE
THE GIFT OF GREAT CHEESES
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
TAGMO

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 6
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
GIANT WINE PRODUCER VSPT COMMITS
 TO 100% ELIMINATION OF
HARMFUL EMISSIONS BY 2050
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. February 9 at 11AM EST,I will be interviewing Susan Rubin, author of a bio of fashion designer Coco Chanel. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.





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A GIFT OF GREAT CHEESES

By John Mariani



 

 

    When Charles de Gaulle groaned, “How can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred and forty-six kinds of cheese?” he was actually off by about 750. But the idea has a good deal of truth to it. For any nation that somehow feels the need for hundreds of cheeses is one that will never be satisfied with too much and too proud to listen to reason about what they eat.
      Yet, that number of French cheeses is but a fraction of all the cheeses made in the world—all more or less by the same process, yet each having a distinctive flavor. For a long time in the U.S. imported cheeses were few and domestic cheeses not very good. In the past decade that has changed enormously so that you can readily find terrific, interesting, unique cheese made everywhere from Croatia to Kenosha. In any number of small French villages you’ll find a cheese monger, and the established ones in the U.S. are showcasing more cheeses from everywhere.
        For gifts cheeses are a capital idea and, largely unexpected. The best way to buy—and, if necessary, send—them is by a highly reputable shop that specializes in mail order. You can shop their catalogs but, when you are ready to order, it is essential to call the store and discuss a few details. First, how long will the cheese take to deliver, and how will it be shipped to insure freshness? You don’t want unchilled cheese to sit at the front step for eight hours in the Florida sun. Second, ask about the ripeness of softer, creamier cheeses. This is not so much a problem with a firm cheese like cheddar or Parmigiano, but for a Camembert or Gorgonzola it is. Third, you might want the cheeses to be a bit under-ripe in case the recipient is going to store them for several days after receipt.
       Here, then, are some first-rate stores that buy and really take special care of their products and know very well how best to send them around the country.

 

Murray’s Cheese—With three locations in New York, including Grand Central Terminal, Murray’s is the city’s premier cheese store, with nearly 250 varieties offered at any one time.  They have 33 styles of cheese, from Alpine and buffalo milk to smoked and stinky. They specialize in mail order, cutting the cheese individually per order. If Murray’s doesn’t carry it, it probably isn’t imported. https://www.murrayscheese.com

 

Mike’s Deli—2344 Arthur Avenue, New York; 718-295-5033. The long-established institution (1947) in the Bronx’s Little Italy neighborhood specializes in imported Italian cheeses that owner David Greco personally chooses. His Parmigiano-Reggiano is aged a minimum of three years, and, if you think of pecorino as a salty grating cheese, order Mike’s Fiore di Sardegna (“Flower of Sardinia”) or pecorino with truffles, along with smoked cacciocavallo and marvelously creamy Gorgonzola.  https://arthuravenue.com

 

The Great American Cheese Collection—1400 W 46th Street, Chicago; 773-475-6527. They claim to stock the largest number of artisanal cheeses anywhere, so if you’re excited about all the new strides American cheesemakers are making, this is the place to order from. They also put together “cheese flights” of several complementary types. Many have delightful names like Lille Bebe from Vermont; Creamy Sext Mushroom from Chicago; and Horseradish and Chive Havarti from Wisconsin. https://www.greatamericancheese.com


La Fromagerie—Some of the best cheese shops are small and very welcoming, places to get a little education along with your cheese. La Fromagerie, with four stories in the San Francisco area, has several gift boxes available for shipping across the U.S. There are plenty of unusual selections including Parano from the Netherlands; Chimay Grand Cru from Belgium; and La Tur from Italy. https://lafromageriesf.com

 

Dobbs & Bishop Fine Cheese—107 Pondfield Road, Bronxville, NY; 914-361-1779. A cozy cheese shop in an affluent New York suburb, D&B’s owners Kevin McNeill and Ruth Walter opened in 2009 and built a discerning clientele looking for something out of the ordinary, and there’s a lot of it here. They have dozens of cheeses rarely seen anywhere else and the best examples of them, all at peak condition and cut to order. The cremes alone, like Brebirousse d’Argental, Mt Tam, Pierre Robert and a Hudson Valley Camembert, are superb, and they carry ten cheddars.  https://www.dobbsandbishop.com

 

The Pawlet Cheese Company—Founded in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell as the Pawlet Cheese Company as Vermont’s first dairy coop, cheesemaking operations were restarted in 2004 under the Consider Bardwell Farm name by co-owners Angela Miller and Rust Glover using traditional methods, regenerative agriculture and sustainable farming practices. The cheeses are made in small batches and are among the finest American cheeses I have tasted, each distinctive and full flavored, including Pawlet and Rupert, both crafted from raw milk. www.considerbardwellfarm.com

 

 





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NEW YORK CORNER

TAGMO
26 Front Street
212-285-2253


 


By John Mariani

 

    Tucked onto New York’s historic Front Street, just below the South Street Seaport, Tagmo seems perfectly situated, for it was here that the Clipper and Tall Ships of the 19th century, carrying spices from around the world, came to dock, and the menu at Tagmo is an explosion of such spices in every dish.
       Tagmo (which in Bhutanese means tigress,
the symbol of female strength across South Asia, a motif you will see on the wall) is both chef Surbhi Sahni’s labor of love and a commitment to employing women of color. The menu, she says, is based on “regional homestyle food and specialty sweets from across India that tell our stories of migration, cultural exchange and self-determination in the diaspora.” In other words, it is a yet another wonderful tale of Manhattan.
       Sahni (left) previously served as a creative force behind Devi, Tulsi and Saar Bistro in Midtown, as well as the creative director and events director at Hemant Mathur Catering. Tagmo’s premises seem to fit her style and intentions like a glove.
       In the front are her beautifully packaged candies and pastries; up a couple of red brick steps is a well-lighted, brilliantly colorful dining room with a velvet watercolor stained banquette,
Persian black and white tiled floor, sea-blue glass light fixtures with gold tassels and a gold-flecked Patagonia stone bar. The walls are half slatted wood, which matches the color of the polished tables, and the wall painted with foliage and birds. The table is set with rustic china and ceramics and folded yellow napkins.
      The bar serves up an array of exotic spiced cocktails and the sake, beer and wine lists are created to match the intensity of the seasonings. The brunch menu features pao, Indian-style street sandwiches with chili ketchup and masala fries.
       Everything at Tagmo is meant to be shared, which is a good part of the fun, with no dish over $27, and there is a helpful dietary key:
“gf = gluten free · v = vegan · veg = vegetarian; spice levels low = no heat · mild = little heat · med = medium heat · spicy = very hot.” When it comes to Indian food, heat is not as much a driving factor as balance, some of which is based on religious tradition, all based on healthfulness.  The menu is plant-driven, though not entirely, so you may begin with veggie plates like khatta meetha chaat  ($15), which is a Delhi-style salad of peas, mangoes, cucumbers, crispy potatoes and well-named “devil’s chutney” (left). The bread roll plate ($15) is not just a basket of bread, but deep fried rolls stuffed with paneer cottage cheese, green chilies, onions, cilantro and tomato chili sauce, which is wonderful as a starter not least because it is quite mild but full of spices. Sabudana vada ($17) is a Maharashtrian dish of tapioca cakes with potatoes, roasted peanuts, curry leaves, green chilies, mint and a rich peanut yogurt chutney, which really shows off the delicacy of intertwined seasonings where none overpowers the others.    
      
Mamiji’s gobi matar ($15) is another Delhi item of sautéed cauliflower, peas, cumin seeds and green chilies, while Baingan Paratha ($17) is a lush dish of Bihari smoked eggplant with sweet caramelized onions, green chilies and a touch of mustard oil, served with yeasty paratha bread (right). There is always a daily dal ($17) of slowly cooked lentils,  also served with paratha.
       Those who are not vegetarian, like myself, will readily enjoy these dishes, but meats and seafood are not neglected at Tagmo, so adamant carnivores have delectable options like haleem on toast ($21), a luscious dish of slowly cooked goat meat with cracked wheat for texture, lentils, caramelized onions, cilantro and a blend of 32 spices that melded so well that you can’t count them all; it is served on a toasted baguette.  Gushtaba is a Kashmiri dish of minced lamb dumplings simmered in cream sauce, lamb stock and ground Kashmiri red chilies served with rice ($27). Oddly enough, while Indian rice is very aromatic, the rice served at Tagmo has little flavor on its own, so the sauces come in handy. Murg khatta pyaz ($25) is a traditional dish that is first roasted in the tandoori oven and cooked with tomatoes, cashew cream, ghee butter, pickled onions, ginger, garlic and cilantro, served with paratha. It is a perfect study in the equilibrium of richness, smokiness and seasonings.
       I too often find Indian seafood dishes overcooked, especially those  done in the tandoori, but Tagmo’s Tamil-style meen varuval ($25) was a pan-fried fish of the day impeccably juicy, suffused with many flavors of whole red chilies, ginger and garlic, serve with coconut chutney to cool things down and a spiced potato onion pepper medley, a brilliant dish and one that is milder than you might expect from those chilies.
      Eral chukka ($27) are prawns sauteed in ghee with Kashmiri chilies, peppercorns, cumin seeds, tamarind and yogurt served with Bengali kitchri of rice and lentils. That those spices did not mask the essential flavor of the prawns is evidence of the deft hand in the kitchen.
      For dessert, there is a calming-to-the-palate rice pudding with macerated berries and rose syrup ($11) and a selection of six Indian sweets ($15).
      
I, for one, have never had any of these dishes at any other Indian restaurant in New York, where, by and large, the menus skew towards the rich food of the Mughal and Punjabi kitchens. Tagmo’s are more subtle and never imbalanced, and the care and service Sahni and her staff shows to every table makes a guest feel part of an extended Indian family rather than one satisfied by the same dozen renditions of tikkas, vindaloos and rogan josh.
  

 

Tagmo is open nightly for dinner and Sat. & Sun. for brunch.




Note: NYC Health Dept. rules require both staff and guests 12 or older to  show proof they have received at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine.
 



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ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani


To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive
 
CHAPTER SIX




 

The Isabella Gardner Museum After Theft on March 18, 1990

 

 

     Katie and David entered Gerald Kiley’s Interpol office on the dot of 11:30, finding him at a cubicle desk among several others in a room enlivened only by the quiet tapping on computers. He was in shirtsleeves, with the kind of face that would never stand out in a crowd of three. He had a pack of Camels on his desk that he fingered until he could go outside and smoke one. He shot a quick glance at David that read, “This woman Katie is very good looking.”
         Kiley opened with, “Frank English said some impressive things about you two.”
         “Really?” said David. “I’m a bit surprised.”
         “Yeah, I read about your exposé in the magazine and how the F.B.I. played a little dirty with you. Good article though, Ms. Cavuto. So, how do you think I can help you?”
         As Katie brought out some file material from her briefcase, David said, “Well, you know about the new Vermeer up for sale, from an unknown private collector and an unnamed auction house. Katie and I are basically just trying to follow some leads that w
ill show how the international art market reacts and works when something this big comes along.”
         “Oh, it’s big all right,” said Kiley. “Certainly the biggest story since I’ve been here.”
         “So, Interpol has been monitoring the sale?” asked Katie, who had flipped open her notebook but, as David had asked, kept her recorder in her briefcase.
         “With something this big, yes, routinely.”
         “And do you have any, uh, inkling that there’s anything illegal going on?”
         “Not so far.  I mean, silent collectors hire people all the time to sell their paintings through auction houses or they just sell them back and forth between each other. All the big collectors know one another, and there are always rumors going around. What makes this event interesting is that it is a Vermeer, not just because it’s an unknown Vermeer, or maybe a forgery, but because it might be a stolen Vermeer. In fact, it may be the Vermeer called "The Concert" that was stolen from the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston eight years ago.”
         David and Katie looked at each other in shock, then said in near unison, “Somebody stole a Vermeer from a museum eight years ago?”
         “Yep, was part of a heist of thirteen pieces that together were worth about half a billion dollars. There’s still a $5 million reward being offered for information leading to the return of the Vermeer and the other works. But no one’s ever tried to ransom the painting in all that time.”
         “Which means what?” asked Katie.
         “Probably that it’s in a private collection somewhere, right?” said David.
         “Probably,” said Kiley. “Art thieves do not go and hang what they steal in their rumpus room for everyone to see.”
         “But collectors do?” asked Katie.
         “Some do, if they think they’re absolutely secure.”
         “You mean like Dr. No?” asked Katie, who was a big fan of James Bond movies.
         Kiley laughed. “Yeah, sort of. Dr. No—the movie came out in 1962, I think—had a scene in which Dr. No had a Goya portrait of the Duke of Wellington hung in his underwater lair. Nobody in the scene said anything, but Bond seemed to recognize that the painting was one that had been stolen a year before from London’s National Gallery.”
         “In reality, did they ever get the Goya back?” asked David.
         “Yeah, turned out an 81-year-old retired bus driver named Bunton stole it because he feared a collector might send the painting to America. He found out the Gallery turned off its alarm system at three in the morning, so the place could be cleaned, then he broke in through a bathroom window and swiped the painting, frame and all. Four years later Bunton told the police the canvas was rolled up in a luggage office in a London train station.  A few weeks later he gave himself up, but was only prosecuted for not returning the frame. They could never prove he stole the painting.”
         “So no collector ever got his hands on it?” asked David.
         “Nope. But in the case of the stolen Vermeer and the other paintings from the Gardner Museum, they had to be fenced somewhere, or the heist was ordered by one or more collectors. We’re still on the case worldwide.”
         “Any leads on that one?”
         “I can’t give you specifics but, to tell the truth, there’s not much to go on.  I can say that you might want to follow your nose and see what you can find out about Russian and Chinese oligarchs. The Saudi princes have been known to hire professionals to steal specific works of art.  The Japanese are pretty much out of the market at this level by now. You heard about the sale of the Van Gogh to a Japanese nutcase named Saito?”
         Katie and David nodded.
       “Clearly,” Kiley went on, “except for the ridiculously well-endowed Getty Museum in Malibu, none of the major museums in the world have the budget for these kinds of Old Master paintings.”
         “What about the Nazi connection?” asked Katie.
         Kiley smirked a little and said, “We’re not seeing too many Nazis around anymore with caches of art work. But there is still a lot of what they stole from all over Europe in private collections. Some of it is in museums, especially the art plundered from Jewish collectors, which shows up for sale or as a donation now and then. We work with the museums on that, if asked. Sometimes, if someone can prove provenance, the piece is returned, even if it’s been hanging in a museum for forty years.  All the lost or stolen pieces are on a data base tracked by an organization called the Arts Loss Register.”
         Katie was riffling her notes, then said, “Correct me if I’m wrong here, but what you’re telling us is that this Vermeer sale could be perfectly legitimate, as long as the seller can show provenance and where the painting was all these years.”
         Kiley nodded.
         “Or,” Katie continued, “it might be art that was stolen a long time ago from any number of sources, including the Gardner Museum.”
         “Well,” said Kiley, “the only way they could possibly sell the Gardner piece, which is so well known and documented, is for the ransom money.  Otherwise it would have to stay hidden in a collector’s cave or vault. So, the title of the Gardner work was The Concert, and the Vermeer up for sale is called The Chemist. But at this point, who really knows? It could be a fake.”
         “Or maybe in Dr. No’s lair?” said David.
         “I seem to recall he didn’t make it out of his lair in the movie. Neither did the Goya.”
         “Good villains always come back. Like Blofeld, the Joker and Lex Luthor.”         Kiley forced a smile and said, “You see too many movies, or read too many comics, for a detective. Well, are we done here?”
       
Katie and David left Kiley’s office and repaired to the coffee shop for lunch, a BLT for her, meatloaf for him. Both left the fries untouched.
         “Kiley doesn’t have much of a sense of humor,” said David.
         “Not a fun guy. Do you think we got anything useful from him?”
         “Hard to say. I thought the stolen Vermeer info could be of help and I could sure use the five million bucks.”
         “Any other ideas?”
         David stirred his coffee. “Not one, but I’ll keep asking around.  Someone’s gotta know something about someone in an industry that sounds as devious as the art world sounds.”
         “O.K., you keep looking under rocks and I’ll dig some more among the more respectable people in the art world. I know some of the art critics from magazines and newspapers.  I’ll see what they might know.”

 




©
John Mariani, 2016



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

GIANT WINE PRODUCER VSPT COMMITS
 TO 100% ELIMINATION OF
HARMFUL EMISSIONS BY 2050


                                                                                                            Biogas Plant at Viña San Pedro in Chile.

 

By John Mariani

    Not for the first time am I happy to describe how the wine industry has taken climate change more seriously than most in the agricultural sector of the global market. Wine production requires a more fragile balance of climatic forces than, say, tomatoes or potatoes, and capital investment in new vineyards may not show maturity for years (followed by the making and aging of the product).
      VSPT Wine Group is one of the top 20 producers in the world, with its major holdings in Chile and Argentina, and has made a major commitment to battling climate change, with  plans to be “climate positive” by 2050. I recently interviewed Barbara Wolff Göpfort, Ph.D., VSPT Chief of Corporate Affairs and Innovation, who was named Green Personality of the Year at the 2021 Green Awards.

 

 

 

What does it mean to be “climate positive,” which you plan to achieve by 2050? 

        What it basically means is that, based on our 2019 footprint, by 2050 we will have neutralized our emissions and beyond. In other words, our decarbonization efforts and green initiatives will not only have offset our own emissions, but also exceeded them, allowing us to generate a positive environmental impact by removing additional CO2 from the atmosphere. It is a beautiful, long-term journey that challenges us to think outside the box in the most collaborative and innovative way, without losing an eye on our productivity, business and organization in order to generate the resources needed to drive the change.

 

You are a silver member of the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) organization. What specific activities are they acting on to mitigate and reverse the impact of climate change through decarbonization of the industry by 25% by 2024?

 
   
Achieving 25% reduction of our footprint in the next three years necessarily involves the action of our entire supply chain: from vineyard until final destination. The first simple and yet difficult task was to generate an accurate calculator to understand the numbers and tackle them correctly. To have an idea, in big numbers, more than 80% of the emissions in our industry are caused by energy, packaging, grape production and transportation. Needed activities that must be in place to meet our medium-term goal are, at least, to supply our energy demand through a 100% renewable grid, implement robust sustainable viticulture practices that allow us to use less agrochemicals as well as lighter and greener packaging.

 

This year you contend VSPT Wine Group produced its entire wine portfolio using 100% renewable electrical energy. Can you give me examples how this was achieved? 

    We have pledged being 100% renewable electrical energy through three initiatives. The first one was our Biogas Plant launched in early 2016, which was a complete innovation in our industry. The second milestone was the installation of solar panels in 2020 in our three main facilities, producing in total 40% on-site energy of our demand. The third action was the migration to long-term green energy suppliers of our remaining 60% demand. Matching these numbers may sound easy, but it has not been at all.   One of the fabulous things about our achievement is that, as a large- scale producer, we have managed to combine all three in a very effective and efficient way, using 100% of our organic waste to self-supply our energy.

 

What importance is there on the trend to Ecodesign? 

  
 
Ecodesign has a huge role today in two major aspects: circular economy boost and carbon footprint reduction, both of them clear climate action needs that we have to address. This tool enables us to improve the traces that we leave. At VSPT Wine Group, we have defined Ecodesign as one of the strategic agendas to reduce our footprint by reducing the weight and use of glass and promote circular economy by ensuring all our dry goods materials are recyclable and/or manageable.  Last, but not least, is education; we are committed to help building a culture of conscious consumption promoting proper waste management at the consumer level through the information of Ecodesign principles.

 How do vineyards interact with the other flora and fauna in a region, and how can all be sustained and work together? 

    
In general, vineyards have a poor interaction with the native flora and fauna. Decades ago we would have probably not noticed it; times have changed for good. There is much more consciousness on how important it is to balance agriculture with native flora and fauna, providing healthy ecosystems important not only for agricultural purposes but also for the communities around them. Biodiversity programs designed with a long-term view are key to restore these balances and reshape our ecosystems. It is possible to be productive in harmony with the endemic species that inhabit our lands. We have to look for those balances and sustain them.

 


What are “living soils”? 

   
 
  We understand this idea of living soils in a way that embodies biological elements to soils studies, which traditionally included only physic (rocks, sands) and chemical elements. When we talk about living soils, we are talking about microorganisms, such as fungus and bacteria, that interact with the plant and enable it to be more efficient in the use of nutrients. It is a fact that healthier soils have more efficiency in capturing CO2 and retaining water, among other benefits. Soils are our greatest asset; that’s why we are truly committed to protecting its life and future.

 



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WHAT THE WORLD NEEDS NOW


To promote the new movie “The Batman,” Little Caesars is offering a version of its Crazy Calzony–a pizza-calzone hybrid
in the shape of a Batman logo. The Batman Calzony is part pepperoni pizza and part calzone stuffed with garlic white sauce, cheese and julienned pepperoni. Cost is $7.99.




 








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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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