IN THIS ISSUE
THE GIFT OF GREAT CHEESES By John Mariani
NEW YORK CORNER
TAGMO
By John Mariani
ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 6
By John Mariani
NOTES
FROM THE WINE CELLAR
GIANT WINE PRODUCER VSPT COMMITS
TO 100% ELIMINATION OF
HARMFUL EMISSIONS BY 2050
By John Mariani
❖❖❖
On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. February
9 at 11AM EST,I will be
interviewing Susan Rubin, author of
a bio of fashion designer Coco Chanel.
Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖
A GIFT OF GREAT CHEESES
By John
Mariani
When Charles de Gaulle groaned, “How
can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred
and forty-six kinds of cheese?” he was actually
off by about 750. But the idea has a good deal
of truth to it. For any nation that somehow
feels the need for hundreds of cheeses is one
that will never be satisfied with too much and
too proud to listen to reason about what they
eat. Yet,
that number of French cheeses is but a fraction of
all the cheeses made in the world—all more or less
by the same process, yet each having a distinctive
flavor. For a long time in the U.S. imported
cheeses were few and domestic cheeses not very
good. In the past decade that has changed
enormously so that you can readily find terrific,
interesting, unique cheese made everywhere from
Croatia to Kenosha. In any number of small French
villages you’ll find a cheese monger, and the
established ones in the U.S. are showcasing more
cheeses from everywhere. For gifts cheeses are a capital idea and,
largely unexpected. The best way to buy—and, if
necessary, send—them is by a highly reputable shop
that specializes in mail order. You can shop their
catalogs but, when you are ready to order, it is
essential to call the store and discuss a few
details. First, how long will the cheese take to
deliver, and how will it be shipped to insure
freshness? You don’t want unchilled cheese to sit
at the front step for eight hours in the Florida
sun. Second, ask about the ripeness of softer,
creamier cheeses. This is not so much a problem
with a firm cheese like cheddar or Parmigiano, but
for a Camembert or Gorgonzola it is. Third, you
might want the cheeses to be a bit under-ripe in
case the recipient is going to store them for
several days after receipt. Here, then, are some first-rate stores that
buy and really take special care of their products
and know very well how best to send them around
the country.
Murray’s
Cheese—With three locations in New York,
including Grand Central Terminal, Murray’s is the
city’s premier cheese store, with nearly 250
varieties offered at any one time.They
have 33 styles of cheese, from Alpine and buffalo
milk to smoked and stinky. They specialize in mail
order, cutting the cheese individually per order.
If Murray’s doesn’t carry it, it probably isn’t
imported. https://www.murrayscheese.com
Mike’s
Deli—2344 Arthur Avenue, New York;
718-295-5033. The
long-established institution (1947) in the Bronx’s
Little Italy neighborhood specializes in imported
Italian cheeses that owner David Greco personally
chooses. His Parmigiano-Reggiano is aged a minimum
of three years, and, if you think of pecorino as a
salty grating cheese, order Mike’s Fiore di
Sardegna (“Flower of Sardinia”) or pecorino
with truffles, along with smoked cacciocavallo
and marvelously creamy Gorgonzola.https://arthuravenue.com
The
Great American Cheese Collection—1400 W 46th Street,
Chicago; 773-475-6527. They claim to stock the
largest number of artisanal cheeses anywhere, so
if you’re excited about all the new strides
American cheesemakers are making, this is the
place to order from. They also put together
“cheese flights” of several complementary types.
Many have delightful names like Lille Bebe from
Vermont; Creamy Sext Mushroom from Chicago; and
Horseradish and Chive Havarti from Wisconsin. https://www.greatamericancheese.com
La
Fromagerie—Some of the best cheese
shops are small and very welcoming,
places to get a little education along with your
cheese. La Fromagerie, with four stories in the
San Francisco area, has several gift boxes
available for shipping across the U.S. There are
plenty of unusual selections including Parano from
the Netherlands; Chimay Grand Cru from Belgium;
and La Tur from Italy. https://lafromageriesf.com
Dobbs
& Bishop Fine Cheese—107
Pondfield Road, Bronxville, NY; 914-361-1779. A
cozy cheese shop in an affluent New York suburb,
D&B’s owners Kevin McNeill and Ruth Walter
opened in 2009 and built a discerning clientele
looking for something out of the ordinary, and
there’s a lot of it here. They have dozens of
cheeses rarely seen anywhere else and the best
examples of them, all at peak condition and cut to
order. The cremes alone, like Brebirousse
d’Argental, Mt Tam, Pierre Robert and a Hudson
Valley Camembert, are superb, and they carry ten
cheddars.https://www.dobbsandbishop.com
The
Pawlet Cheese Company—Founded in
1864 by Consider
Stebbins Bardwell as the Pawlet Cheese Company as
Vermont’s first dairy coop, cheesemaking
operations were restarted in 2004 under the
Consider Bardwell Farm name by co-owners Angela
Miller and Rust Glover using traditional methods,
regenerative agriculture and sustainable farming
practices. The cheeses are made in small batches
and are among the finest American cheeses I have
tasted, each distinctive and full flavored,
including Pawlet and Rupert, both crafted from raw
milk. www.considerbardwellfarm.com
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NEW YORK CORNER
TAGMO 26 Front Street
212-285-2253
By
John Mariani
Tucked
onto New York’s historic Front Street, just
below the South Street Seaport, Tagmo seems
perfectly situated, for it was here that the
Clipper and Tall Ships of the 19th century,
carrying spices from around the world, came to
dock, and the menu at Tagmo is an explosion of
such spices in every dish. Tagmo (which in Bhutanese means tigress, the symbol of female
strength across South Asia, a motif you will
see on the wall) is both chef Surbhi Sahni’s
labor of love and a commitment to employing women
of color. The menu, she says, is based on
“regional homestyle food and specialty sweets from
across India that tell our stories of migration,
cultural exchange and self-determination in the
diaspora.” In other words, it is a yet another
wonderful tale of Manhattan. Sahni (left) previously served as a
creative force behind Devi, Tulsi and Saar Bistro
in Midtown, as well as the creative director and
events director at Hemant Mathur Catering. Tagmo’s
premises seem to fit her style and intentions like
a glove. In the front are her beautifully packaged
candies and pastries;
up a couple of red brick steps is a well-lighted,
brilliantly colorful dining room with a velvet
watercolor stained banquette, Persian black and white
tiled floor, sea-blue glass light fixtures with
gold tassels and a gold-flecked Patagonia stone
bar. The walls are half slatted wood, which
matches the color of the polished tables, and the
wall painted with foliage and birds. The table is
set with rustic china and ceramics and folded
yellow napkins. The bar serves up an array of exotic spiced
cocktails and the sake, beer and wine lists are
created to match the intensity of the seasonings.
The brunch menu features pao, Indian-style
street sandwiches with chili ketchup and masala
fries. Everything
at Tagmo is meant to be shared, which is a good
part of the fun, with no dish over $27, and there
is a helpful dietary key: “gf = gluten free · v = vegan ·
veg = vegetarian; spice levels low = no heat ·
mild = little heat · med = medium heat · spicy =
very hot.” When it comes to Indian food, heat is
not as much a driving factor as balance, some of
which is based on religious tradition, all based
on healthfulness.The menu is plant-driven, though not
entirely, so you may begin with veggie plates like
khatta meetha chaat($15),
which is a Delhi-style salad of peas, mangoes,
cucumbers, crispy potatoes and well-named “devil’s
chutney” (left). The bread roll plate ($15)
is not just a basket of bread, but deep fried
rolls stuffed with paneer cottage cheese, green
chilies, onions, cilantro and tomato chili sauce,
which is wonderful as a starter not least because
it is quite mild but full of spices. Sabudana
vada ($17) is a Maharashtrian dish of
tapioca cakes with potatoes, roasted peanuts,
curry leaves, green chilies,
mint and a rich peanut yogurt chutney, which
really shows off the delicacy of intertwined
seasonings where none overpowers the others. Mamiji’s
gobi matar ($15) is another Delhi item of
sautéed cauliflower, peas, cumin seeds and green
chilies, while Baingan Paratha ($17) is a
lush dish of Bihari smoked eggplant with sweet
caramelized onions, green chilies and a touch of
mustard oil, served with yeasty paratha bread (right).
There is always a daily dal ($17)
of slowly cooked lentils,also
served with paratha. Those who are
not vegetarian, like myself, will readily enjoy
these dishes, but meats and seafood are not
neglected at Tagmo, so adamant carnivores have
delectable options like haleem on toast
($21), a luscious dish of slowly cooked goat meat
with cracked wheat for texture, lentils,
caramelized onions, cilantro and a blend of 32
spices that melded so well that you can’t count
them all; it is served on a toasted baguette.Gushtaba
is a Kashmiri dish
of minced lamb dumplings simmered in cream sauce,
lamb stock and ground Kashmiri red chilies served
with rice ($27). Oddly enough, while Indian rice
is very aromatic, the rice served at Tagmo has
little flavor on its own, so the sauces come in
handy. Murg khatta pyaz ($25) is a
traditional dish that is first roasted in the
tandoori oven and cooked with tomatoes, cashew
cream, ghee butter, pickled onions, ginger, garlic
and cilantro, served with paratha. It is a perfect
study in the equilibrium of richness, smokiness
and seasonings. I too often find Indian seafood dishes
overcooked, especially thosedone in
the tandoori, but Tagmo’s Tamil-style meen
varuval ($25) was a pan-fried fish of the
day impeccably juicy, suffused with many flavors
of whole red chilies, ginger and garlic, serve
with coconut chutney to cool things down and a
spiced potato onion pepper medley,
a brilliant dish and one that is milder than you
might expect from those chilies. Eral chukka ($27) are prawns sauteed
in ghee with Kashmiri chilies, peppercorns, cumin
seeds, tamarind and yogurt served with Bengali kitchri
of rice and lentils. That those spices did not
mask the essential flavor of the prawns is
evidence of the deft hand in the kitchen. For dessert, there is a
calming-to-the-palate rice pudding with macerated
berries and rose syrup ($11) and a selection of
six Indian sweets ($15). I, for one,
have never had any of these dishes at any other
Indian restaurant in New York, where, by and
large, the menus skew towards the rich food of the
Mughal and Punjabi kitchens. Tagmo’s are more
subtle and never imbalanced, and the care and
service Sahni and her staff shows to every table
makes a guest feel part of an extended Indian
family rather than one satisfied by the same dozen
renditions of tikkas, vindaloos and rogan josh.
Tagmo is open
nightly for dinner and Sat. & Sun. for
brunch.
Note: NYC Health Dept.
rules require both staff and guests 12 or older
to show proof they have received at least one
dose of a COVID-19 vaccine.
❖❖❖
ANOTHER VERMEER
By John Mariani
To read previous
chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to thearchive
CHAPTER SIX
The
Isabella Gardner Museum After Theft on March 18,
1990
Katie
and David entered Gerald Kiley’s Interpol office
on the dot of 11:30, finding him at a cubicle
desk among several others in a room enlivened
only by the quiet tapping on computers. He was
in shirtsleeves, with the kind of face that
would never stand out in a crowd of three. He
had a pack of Camels on his desk that he
fingered until he could go outside and smoke
one. He shot a quick glance at David that read,
“This woman Katie is very good looking.” Kiley opened with, “Frank English said some
impressive things about you two.” “Really?” said David. “I’m a bit
surprised.” “Yeah, I read about your exposé in the
magazine and how the F.B.I. played a little dirty
with you. Good article though, Ms. Cavuto. So, how
do you think I can help you?” As Katie brought out some file material
from her briefcase, David said, “Well, you know
about the new Vermeer up for sale, from an unknown
private collector and an unnamed auction house.
Katie and I are basically just trying to follow
some leads that will
show how the international art market reacts and
works when something this big comes along.” “Oh, it’s big all right,” said Kiley.
“Certainly the biggest story since I’ve been
here.” “So, Interpol has been monitoring the
sale?” asked Katie, who had flipped open her
notebook but, as David had asked, kept her
recorder in her briefcase. “With something this big, yes, routinely.” “And do you have any, uh, inkling that
there’s anything illegal going on?” “Not so far.I mean, silent collectors hire people all
the time to sell their paintings through auction
houses or they just sell them back and forth
between each other. All the big collectors know
one another, and there are always rumors going
around. What makes this event interesting is that
it is a Vermeer, not just because it’s an unknown
Vermeer, or maybe a forgery, but because it might
be a stolen
Vermeer. In fact, it may be the Vermeer called
"The Concert" that was stolen from the Isabella
Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston eight years ago.” David and Katie
looked at each other in shock, then said in near
unison, “Somebody stole a Vermeer from a museum
eight years ago?” “Yep, was part of a heist of thirteen
pieces that together were worth about half a
billion dollars. There’s still a $5 million reward
being offered for information leading to the
return of the Vermeer and the other works. But no
one’s ever tried to ransom the painting in all
that time.” “Which means what?” asked Katie. “Probably that it’s in a private collection
somewhere, right?” said David. “Probably,” said Kiley. “Art thieves do not
go and hang what they steal in their rumpus room
for everyone to see.” “But collectors do?” asked Katie. “Some do, if they think they’re absolutely
secure.” “You mean like Dr. No?” asked Katie, who
was a big fan of James Bond movies. Kiley laughed. “Yeah, sort of. Dr. No—the
movie came out in 1962, I think—had a scene in
which Dr. No had a Goya portrait of the Duke of
Wellington hung in his underwater lair. Nobody in
the scene said anything, but Bond seemed to
recognize that the painting was one that had been
stolen a year before from London’s National
Gallery.” “In reality, did they ever get the Goya
back?” asked David. “Yeah, turned out an 81-year-old retired
bus driver named Bunton stole it because he feared
a collector might send the painting to America. He
found out the Gallery turned off its alarm system
at three in the morning, so the place could be
cleaned, then he broke in through a bathroom
window and swiped the painting, frame and all.
Four years later Bunton told the police the canvas
was rolled up in a luggage office in a London
train station.A few weeks later he gave himself up, but
was only prosecuted for not returning the frame.
They could never prove he stole the painting.” “So no collector ever got his hands on it?”
asked David. “Nope. But in the case of the stolen
Vermeer and the other paintings from the Gardner
Museum, they had to be
fenced somewhere, or the heist was ordered by one
or more collectors. We’re still on the case
worldwide.” “Any leads on that one?” “I can’t give you specifics but, to tell
the truth, there’s not much to go on.I can
say that you might want to follow your nose and
see what you can find out about Russian and
Chinese oligarchs. The Saudi princes have been
known to hire professionals to steal specific
works of art.The Japanese are pretty much out of the
market at this level by now. You heard about the
sale of the Van Gogh to a Japanese nutcase named
Saito?” Katie and David
nodded. “Clearly,” Kiley went on, “except for the
ridiculously well-endowed Getty Museum in Malibu,
none of the major museums in the world have the
budget for these kinds of Old Master paintings.” “What about the Nazi connection?” asked
Katie. Kiley smirked a little and said, “We’re not
seeing too many Nazis around anymore with caches
of art work. But there is still a lot of what they
stole from all over Europe in private collections.
Some of it is in museums, especially the art
plundered from Jewish collectors, which shows up
for sale or as a donation now and then. We work
with the museums on that, if asked. Sometimes, if
someone can prove provenance, the piece is
returned, even if it’s been hanging in a museum
for forty years.All the lost or stolen pieces are on a data
base tracked by an organization called the Arts
Loss Register.” Katie was
riffling her notes, then said, “Correct me if I’m
wrong here, but what you’re telling us is that
this Vermeer sale could be perfectly legitimate,
as long as the seller can show provenance and
where the painting was all these years.” Kiley nodded. “Or,” Katie continued, “it might be art
that was stolen a long time ago from any number of
sources, including the Gardner Museum.” “Well,” said Kiley, “the only way they
could possibly sell the Gardner piece, which is so
well known and documented, is
for the ransom money.Otherwise
it would have to stay hidden in a collector’s cave
or vault. So, the title of the Gardner work was The Concert,
and the Vermeer up for sale is called The Chemist.
But at this point, who really knows? It could be a
fake.” “Or maybe in Dr. No’s lair?” said David. “I seem to recall he didn’t make it out of
his lair in the movie. Neither did the Goya.” “Good villains always come back. Like
Blofeld, the Joker and Lex Luthor.”Kiley forced a smile and said, “You see too
many movies, or read too many comics, for a
detective. Well, are we done here?” Katie
and David left Kiley’s office and repaired to the
coffee shop for lunch, a BLT for her, meatloaf for
him. Both left the fries untouched. “Kiley doesn’t have much of a sense of
humor,” said David. “Not a fun guy. Do you think we got
anything useful from him?” “Hard to say. I thought the stolen Vermeer
info could be of help and I could sure use the
five million bucks.” “Any other ideas?” David stirred his coffee. “Not one, but
I’ll keep asking around.Someone’s
gotta know something about someone in an industry
that sounds as devious as the art world sounds.” “O.K., you keep looking under rocks and
I’ll dig some more among the more respectable
people in the art world. I know some of the art
critics from magazines and newspapers.I’ll see
what they might know.”
GIANT WINE PRODUCER VSPT
COMMITS
TO 100% ELIMINATION OF
HARMFUL EMISSIONS BY 2050
Biogas Plant at Viña San Pedro in
Chile.
By John Mariani
Not for the
first time am I happy to describe how the wine
industry has taken climate change more seriously
than most in the agricultural sector of the global
market. Wine production requires a more fragile
balance of climatic forces than, say, tomatoes or
potatoes, and capital investment in new vineyards
may not show maturity for years (followed by the
making and aging of the product). VSPT Wine
Group is one of the top 20 producers in the world,
with its major holdings in Chile and Argentina, and
has made a major commitment to battling climate
change, with plans to be “climate positive” by
2050. I recently interviewed Barbara Wolff Göpfort,
Ph.D., VSPT Chief
of Corporate Affairs and Innovation, who was named
Green Personality of the Year at the 2021 Green
Awards.
What
does it mean to be “climate positive,” which you
plan to achieve by 2050?
What it basically means is that, based on our
2019 footprint, by 2050 we will have neutralized our
emissions and beyond. In other words, our
decarbonization efforts and green initiatives will
not only have offset our own emissions, but also
exceeded them, allowing us to generate a positive
environmental impact by removing additional CO2 from
the atmosphere. It is a beautiful, long-term journey
that challenges us to think outside the box in the
most collaborative and innovative way, without
losing an eye on our productivity, business and
organization in order to generate the resources
needed to drive the change.
You
are a silver member of the International Wineries
for Climate Action (IWCA) organization. What
specific activities are they acting on to mitigate
and reverse the impact of climate change through
decarbonization of the industry by 25% by 2024?
Achieving 25% reduction
of our footprint in the next three years necessarily
involves the action of our entire supply chain: from
vineyard until final destination. The first simple
and yet difficult task was to generate an accurate
calculator to understand the numbers and tackle them
correctly. To have an idea, in big numbers, more
than 80% of the emissions in our industry are caused
by energy, packaging, grape production and
transportation. Needed activities that must be in
place to meet our medium-term goal are, at least, to
supply our energy demand through a 100% renewable
grid, implement robust sustainable viticulture
practices that allow us to use less agrochemicals as
well as lighter and greener packaging.
This
year you contend VSPT Wine Group produced its
entire wine portfolio using 100% renewable
electrical energy. Can you give me examples
how this was achieved?
We
have pledged being 100% renewable electrical energy
through three initiatives. The first one was our
Biogas Plant launched in early 2016, which was a
complete innovation in our industry. The second
milestone was the installation of solar panels in
2020 in our three main facilities, producing in
total 40% on-site energy of our demand. The third
action was the migration to long-term green energy
suppliers of our remaining 60% demand. Matching
these numbers may sound easy, but it has not been at
all.One
of the fabulous things about our achievement is
that, as a large- scale producer, we have managed to
combine all three in a very effective and efficient
way, using 100% of our organic waste to self-supply
our energy.
What
importance
is there on the trend to Ecodesign?
Ecodesign has a huge role today in
two major aspects: circular economy boost and carbon
footprint reduction, both of them clear climate
action needs that we have to address. This tool
enables us to improve the traces that we leave. At
VSPT Wine Group, we have defined Ecodesign as one of
the strategic agendas to reduce our footprint by
reducing the weight and use of glass and promote
circular economy by ensuring all our dry goods
materials are recyclable and/or manageable.Last, but
not least, is education; we are committed to help
building a culture of conscious consumption
promoting proper waste management at the consumer
level through the information of Ecodesign
principles.
How
do vineyards interact with the other flora and
fauna in a region, and how can all be sustained
and work together?
In general, vineyards have a poor interaction
with the native flora and fauna. Decades ago we
would have probably not noticed it; times have
changed for good. There is much more consciousness
on how important it is to balance agriculture with
native flora and fauna, providing healthy ecosystems
important not only for agricultural purposes but
also for the communities around them. Biodiversity
programs designed with a long-term view are key to
restore these balances and reshape our ecosystems.
It is possible to be productive in harmony with the
endemic species that inhabit our lands. We have to
look for those balances and sustain them.
What are “living soils”?
We understand this idea of
living soils in a way that embodies biological
elements to soils studies, which traditionally
included only physic (rocks, sands) and chemical
elements. When we talk about living soils, we are
talking about microorganisms, such as fungus and
bacteria, that interact with the plant and enable it
to be more efficient in the use of nutrients. It is
a fact that healthier soils have more efficiency in
capturing CO2 and retaining water, among other
benefits. Soils are our greatest asset; that’s why
we are truly committed to protecting its life and
future.
❖❖❖
WHAT THE WORLD
NEEDS NOW
To promote the new movie “The Batman,” Little
Caesars is offering a version of its Crazy
Calzony–a pizza-calzone hybrid in the shape
of a Batman logo. The Batman Calzony is part
pepperoni pizza and part calzone stuffed with
garlic white sauce, cheese and julienned pepperoni.
Cost is $7.99.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites:
I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
well as the author of the Eating Las
Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.