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Hendrik Gluntenjamp"Cuban Workers Club 1937" ❖❖❖ THIS WEEK JAMES BOND'S TASTES: "007 IN NEW YORK" and NEVER SAY NEVER AGAIN By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER IL GATTOPARDO By John Mariani GOING AFTER HARRY LIME CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR BIONDI-SANTI, THE FATHER OF ALL BRUNELLOS, HAS A NEW OWNER By John Mariani ❖❖❖
JAMES BOND'S TASTES:
"007 IN NEW YORK" and NEVER SAY NEVER AGAIN By John Mariani
The
two James Bond subjects treated in this
article are unrelated and therefore require
being treated separately. The first is from a
1966 collection of short stories entitled The
Octopussy Collection that appeared after
Ian Fleming’s death in 1964. (I’ve already
written about both the story “Octopussy,” and
the subsequent film.) The collection also includes
“The Living Daylights,” whose title was used
for a movie many years later (to be discussed
in another article), and “The Property of a
Lady,” which never was. “007 in New York” is a
tossed-off bit of memoir, with Bond musing
about his favorite hotels and restaurants in
New York.
The
title for the film Never Say
Never Again came from a remark
actor Sean Connery’s wife Micheline made after
years of his refusing to
play Bond ever again. Roger Moore had already
embraced the character as of 1967, and, now six
years later, Connery was coaxed back into the
role by other producers who got hold of the
literary rights to Thunderball,
which Connery had starred in in 1965, but not
the right to use the title, so Never Say
Never Again was used. As it turned out, Octopussy,
which came out the same year, was a far better
Bond flick than Never,
which suffered from cheap production values and
a weak script. Connery looked like he was
phoning it in.
Blush works for SPECTRE, run by Ernst
Stavro Blofield (Max von Sydow), who has plans
to steal atomic warheads in order to extort
billions from NATO. Bond follows
a lead to the Bahamas, checking into the British
Colonial Hilton Hotel, where he goes to
its Gazebo
Bar for a martini, where Blush sweeps onto
the beach and splashes Bond, saying she hopes
she didn’t get him too wet. Bond responds, “Yes,
but my martini’s still dry.” ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER IL
GATTOPARDO
13-15 West 54th Street 212-246-0412
A quarter
century in a restaurant’s life is not just a
testament to its
enduring quality but to the ability of
its owners to get through the thick-and-thin of
economic downturns, disasters like 9/11,
pandemics, rising prices for rent, wages and
ingredients and changing tastes. That Il
Gattopardo has sailed through it all with the
same grace it exhibited upon opening is little
short of amazing, when so many of its
competitors in the Italian fine dining scene
have disappeared, like Del Posto, Da Silvano,
Felidia and San Domenico. Open for lunch
Mon.-Fri., dinner nightly and brunch Sat. &
Sun. ❖❖❖
GOING AFTER HARRY LIME By John Mariani CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX Calloway: Go home
Martins, like a sensible chap. You don't know
what you're mixing in, get the next plane. Martins: As soon
as I get to the bottom of this, I'll get the
next plane. Calloway: Death's
at the bottom of everything, Martins. Leave
death to the professionals. — The Third Man
Four hours
later, the Airbus landed at Heathrow at noon,
and, after getting their bags and exiting
through customs, they found two men in tweed
coats in the airport lobby holding a sign
saying “CAVUTO/GRECO.” The
two Americans looked at each other, trying to
puzzle out who the men might be, since they
hadn’t told anyone they were coming back to
London early. © John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
BIONDI-SANTI, THE FATHER OF ALL BRUNELLOS, HAS A NEW OWNER By John Mariani FRANCO BIONDI-SANTI The most
famous of Tuscan wines, Brunello di Montalcino,
would never have existed had it not been for
Clemente Biondi, who created the wine in 1865, for
the first time labeled as Brunello di Montalcino
as of the 1888 vintage. For seven generations the
Biondi-Santi family ensured the unique stature of
their wines, producing Brunello Annata and Riserva
of remarkable longevity. (Back in the 1980s I
actually tasted an 1891 vintage at the
Biondi-Santi estate, Tenuta Greppo, and it was
amazingly vibrant.)
Let me answer the last
question first with a firm yes. We do indeed intend
to maintain the signature style of Biondi-Santi,
which over the decades has always been the same. Our
wines first and foremost are wines of balance,
crafted with the idea of a long life in the bottle.
They have a good acidity, a balanced alcohol that
rarely goes beyond 14%, a wide spectrum of aromas
with the fruity notes which are always fresh, never
overripe. Our estate is located on the top of the
Montalcino hill in a ventilated location, which
helps us to produce grapes which can deliver these
characteristics. We also harvest quite early for the
same reason. I met Franco
Biondi-Santi back in the late 1970s and he opened
a bottle from, I think, 1891 and it was amazingly
sound. Biondi-Santi’s longevity was key to its
appeal, and Franco said a bottle takes many years
to mature. Given today’s market, is Biondi-Santi
made to mature faster? How long is it kept in
barrel and bottle? When should a buyer open it? What an experience to have
been able to taste the 1891. I have yet to try it
and don’t even know if that honor will ever befall
me, but to answer your question ,we aren’t really
doing anything different today compared to the past.
Franco’s father, Tancredi, used to age his wines for
4 years in large Slavonian oak casks. Franco
shortened this aging to 3 years, and this is still
what we are doing today. One thing that we have
changed, though, compared to Franco, is to prolong
the bottle aging before we release a new vintage.
The Brunello stays for at least one year and the Riserva for
two years. This is to be sure that the wine is
readily enjoyable when it reaches the market, even
when it is young. It is obvious that a Riserva
should be able to age for many, many decades in the
bottle, but it is also important that people should
not have to wait to enjoy it, if they want to open
the bottle within its first years. Our Riserva is
released 7 years after the harvest. It is already
quite a long time. For me, every era in a bottle’s
life gives us a distinct and special drinking
experience. There is not only one good time. You have worked in
Tuscany for 20 years. What changes have you seen?
There have been scandals and the DOCG is now given
to so many Italian wines. Does that appellation
still have importance? More than appellation, I
would say that territories matter, and with
territories come appellations, which become a sort
of “grand family” to whom all producers belong. I am
happy to see that one of the biggest changes in
Italian viticulture has been the shift from
“winemaker wines” to “territory wines.” For a long
time the name of the winemaker, often a consultant,
was an important trait for the commercialization of
a wine and for the definition of that wine’s
personality. Now it is the winery with its terroir
that give personality to the wine, as it should be.
As for the appellation, I have to say that for me it
is a point of strength and inspiration to be able to
work within a network where we can learn from each
other and discuss problems and challenges together. Since “Super Tuscan”
was never an official appellation, have Tuscan
winemakers shied away from using the term? I believe that it is mostly
the trade using the term now to simplify the
presentation of certain wines, for example, on the
wine list. Many of the so-called Super Tuscans now
have quite a long history and a specific identity
for the winery which produces them, so the producer
himself has no need to refer to the term Super
Tuscans. What were Biondi-Santi’s
wines
like after Franco died in 2013 and his son Jacopo
(with whom he disagreed) took over? Jacopo was in charge of
production for a very short period of time. Franco
passed away in 2013. In 2014 no Brunello was
produced because the vintage was not of a good
quality. Jacopo personally followed the vintages
2015 and 2016. It is true that Jacopo has a bit of a
different idea about what the Brunello Biondi-Santi
could be and that he wanted to work a bit more on
the structure of the wine compared to his father. We
can see the results of this idea in the Riserva
2015, for example, which does go in that direction,
but with elegance and grace, still preserving those
traits of a typical wine from Biondi-Santi we spoke
of in your first question. I have been involved in
following these two vintages in the cellar and
personally oversaw the blending of the Riserva 2016,
which is a beautiful vintage. Did the estate lose
its reputation under Jacopo? Was he looking to
sell it? His son Tancredi took over in 2020. I wouldn’t say so.
Biondi-Santi continued its normal path as always.
Tancredi worked side by side with his father, but
never took over in production. Why did EPI want to
buy it and what does it intend to do with the
brand? EPI is Christofer Descours,
as the group is family owned, who was interested in
Biondi-Santi because it is a unique winery with a
unique history, as the founder of one of the most
important appellations in Italy, and the intention
is to make sure that the estate continues in its
evolution and that it strengthens its position in
the ultra-fine wine sphere. Christofer has a very
long-term vision for the estate that includes new
investments in the vineyards to see if we can reach
an even higher excellence in production. An example
is the parcellization project which we started in
2018 and which is proving very important to define
even further the personality of our three wines,
Rosso, Brunello and Riserva. Will production
increase? The production at
Biondi-Santi will always be quite small.
Jacopo has no share of
Biondi-Santi. No one from the family is involved
anymore. What is Giampiero
Bertolini’s role at Biondi-Santi? Giampiero Bertolini is the
CEO of Biondi-Santi. What is meant by
“regenerative viticulture?” This is a holistic approach
that aims at going further than the paradigms of
organic or biodynamic viticulture. We treat the soil
with the objective of increasing the organic matter
and life in the soil to make sure that the soil is
in health for the next generations. We stimulate
biodiversity of flora and fauna to obtain a balance
which is as close to “wild nature” as possible. We
plant fruit trees, olive trees and hedgerows of
different plants around our new vineyards for the
same reason. We try to make the vines as
resilient as possible in coping with the changing
climate. We have started a new massal selection in
our oldest vineyard, from the 1930s, in order to
propagate our genetic imprint in the new vineyards
we will plant in the future. In this old vineyard,
vines and olive trees live in unison, and it is
interesting to see how the soil here is the
healthiest and liveliest we have on the estate. This
is a lesson we mustn’t overlook. Are
barrels of Slavonian oak now used for all Biondi-Santi wines? We use Slavonian oak casks
for all our wines, of varying sizes, as we keep our
parcels separate in the cellar throughout the aging.
There are no barriques, however. How deep is the
historic cellar? Are there still bottles dating
back to the 19th century? We are very proud of the
fact that we still have bottles of each vintage of
Riserva ever produced, starting with the two bottles
of the first Brunello vintage in history, the 1888. ❖❖❖
SOMEHOW HIS
CHARMS ELUDE US
In his book Raw Dog:
The Naked Truth About Hot Dogs Jamie Loftus
goes to the Coney Island Fourth of July Nathan's Hot
Dog Eating Championship and declares, "I'm in love
with Joey Chestnut" (left), who won that year
by stuffing down 63 hot dogs. ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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