Danny
Aiello and Gian Carlo Esposito in "Do the Right Thing"
(1989)
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK
EATING AROUND LOUISVILLE
Part One By
John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER
SLAVA
By John Mariani
GOING AFTER HARRY LIME
CHAPTER 28
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
JORDAN WINERY
BY GEOFF KALISH
❖❖❖
EATING AROUND
LOUISVILLE
Part One By John Mariani
A
few weeks back I wrote
about the foods indigenous to Louisville and
Kentucky—the hot brown sandwich, Derby Pie, the
Old-Fashioned cocktail and others. But
Louisville increasingly has more of a national
and global gastronomy, not least in the
gentrifying neighborhoods like Highlands and
Germantown, where young chefs have opened as
many Thai and Mexican restaurants as they have
barbecues and steakhouses. On a recent
three-day trip to the city, I ate well at some old
favorites and some that have now become new ones.
My first stop, as is usually the case, was
Pat’s
Steakhouse, which regulars have long called
“Min’s” after Minnie Pearlman, who ran it with
Michael Francis, back in 1958. His son, Pat, is
the new guy, since1985.The 150-year-old, two-story coach house
with garden gives you an idea of what to expect
inside, which is a very old-fashioned décor of
dark woods, brass chandeliers, Waterford crystal,
hundreds of old photos and white tablecloths,
along with a wall of more than 60 bourbons. The menu hasn’t budged much in seven
decades, so you may begin with an array of icy
oysters ($21) and hot
rolls and butter. Baby frogs’ legs has long been a
staple here ($25.50 serving for two), richly
bathed in garlic butter. There’s also Irish stew
($10) in fall and winter.
Seven cuts of beef are offered,
plus meatloaf with tomato sauce ($32), and I like
the New York strip steak best; at 16 ounces ($56)
it’s a lot to handle. Pat’s fried chicken—half a
bird ($31) —is as crunchy and moist as you could
imagine, and the potato sides are terrific. Finish
off with flakey apple pie or strawberry shortcake. The waitstaff has members going back four
decades, and Pat only takes Mondays off, so if you
don’t ask for him, he’s likely to drop by your
table in any case.
2347 Brownsboro Road
502-893-2062
Open nightly for dinner
Jack Fry’s also has the charm of the antique to
its décor, and pre-dates Pat’s by a quarter
century in business, established by Jack Fry and
his wife, Flossie. Jack’s infatuation with sports
and gambling provided him with an array of
colorful, rakish characters from those worlds, and
the dining room is decked out accordingly with
mementos. Jack closed the place in 1972, but, after a
brief stint as a Mexican eatery, it rebounded as
Jack Fry’s in 1982, then bought by Susan Seiller
in 1987. In 2008, ownership passed to former
manager Stephanie J. Meeks, who is vitally
involved in every aspect, and treats every
newcomer like an old-timer. There’s a bit of Southern twang in the
cooking here, with classics like shrimp and grits
($18), spicy fried oysters ($18) and buttermilk
fried chicken sandwich on a bun ($17), with
boursin cheese and Fresno chili slaw that packs a
punch, but it’s more a continental menu with
snails in garlic butter ($18), braised short ribs
with crispy onions ($43), and duck confit over English peas and basil puree
($36).I
raved about the chicken tortilla soup ($9). The
blue cheese salad ($11) with Gorgonzola is a
sumptuous rendering. They do a seasonal fruit
cobbler with vanilla icecream
($10).
007
Bardstown Road 502-452-9244.
Open for lunch Mon.-Fri.; for
dinner nightly.
Louisville has its share of
barbecue pits and stands, many Black-owned. My
choice is always led by whether there is wood
stacked up outside and smoke curling from a
chimney, both virtues I found at Blackdeck,
owned by self-taught chef Chan Nelson, who
insists, “You see, Great BBQ is like a great
steak. You don’t drown a great aged steak in A1 or
any other steak sauce. You let a great steak speak
for itself. Great BBQ is the same way.” The posted menu of signature sandwiches
totals ten options from $16-$24, including “burnt
end bomb” of pulled pork. There are also platters
of ribs and a three-meat platter, or you can buy
the meat by the pound ($14-$21) and sides ($4) of
smokey beans, smoked mac and cheese, and yams.
801 West Kenwood
502-705-7662
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
SLAVA
77 West
Houston Street
929-531-9779
The
space that was once the bar Peju Club, which
closed in 2020, has been transformed from its
shadowy Asian ambience to a facsimile of a
modern Ukrainian lounge and dining room at a
time when it seems like a supportive act to
investigate Ukrainian food culture. There is,
in fact, a Little Ukraine community justblocks
away
on the Lower East Side. Partners
Nazar Hrab, Travis Odegard, Matt Sylvester, who
also own the East Village’s Pineapple Club and
Bee’s Knees Cocktail Bar in Williamsburg, met
while working at Mercer Kitchen, and later
partnered with Seattle tech
entrepreneur and designer Josh Spiezle, opening
Slava last November. It is named after Nazar’s
mother Yaroslava and has taken on a second
meaning as a reference to the phrase “Slava
Ukraini,” which means glory to Ukraine. The restaurant is up two steep staircases
from Houston Street, and you enter to find a
long room done in tones of dark blue-green with
burgundy tufted banquettes. There are
murals by Ukrainian artistKateryna Lisova that
are available for sale, with proceeds going to
benefit Revived Soldiers Ukraine. Lighting
is pretty low, certainly not bright enough to
see the color and beauty of chef Pavlo “Pasha”
Servetnyk’s food. We had a comfortable booth
with a table lamp, commandeered another and
could then see just how lovely the spread of
dishes was. The rest of the tables are only
lighted by votive candles. Servetnyk
(above, left), who looks barely out of
his teens, has asturdy résumé, with stints at El Celler
de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, and Gaggan Anand
in Bangkok. Afterwards he opened five
Breadman Pizzerias in his native Ukraine, and
when war broke out, he transformed his largest
pizzeria into a bakery that distributed 500,000
free loaves of bread to the starving residents
of Kherson—a brave act that caused him to flee
to New York, where he worked at La Mercerie. Now
at Slava, his entire kitchen brigade is composed
of Ukrainian émigrés. The
menu is of a good size to show a real range of
Ukrainian cuisine, which, of course, resembles
much of what’s cooked in all nearby regions. His
work in pizza-making is evident in the
delightful sourdough bread served with porcini
butter ($8). It is a perfect accompaniment to
the superb borscht ($15), which comes with an
emerging beef rib whose meat falls from the bone
into the beet-based soup. It's impossible to see “Pancakes with
Chicken and Porcini”($22)
topped with Brinza sheep’s milk cheese and
seared onions, or a potato pancake with sour
cream and salmon roe ($26), and not want to
order both, which come brown and steamy and
sweet with caramelized onions. The house specialties are varenyky,
luscious dumplings with various stuffings (made
famous by Nikolai Gogol in his story “Christmas
Eve”),and
each platter will serve two people as a starter
($18-$20). I loved the potato variety with
savory pork fat, and the “Lazy Verenyky” I
wanted to keep all to myself: They are like long
gnocchi, nicely chewy, with cottage cheese, sour
cream, dill, butter Brinza, and both porcini and
oyster mushrooms—a dish I would never fail to
order whenever I return to Slava. Simpler
chicken verenyky
were somewhat bland by comparison. The
main courses number seven, with the only seafood
offering a shrimp salad ($23). The rosy sliced
duck breast, impeccably cooked with crisp
burnished skin ($38), was a delectably good
example ofclassic technique, and the lamb
tenderloin with peas and a spicy, garlicky
tomato adjuka
sauce ($32) had just the right heft and
seasonings that long cooking imparts. There is an item called “Fried chicken
Kyiv sandwich” ($24),which is not the
old-fashioned, butter-oozing chicken Kiev but a
first-rate, crispy chicken fillet with aïoli,
hot sauce and plenty of roasted potatoes. 2
A beloved eastern European
dessert is cherry verenyky,
here topped with sour cream and a rich raspberry
sauce ($29). I also enjoyed the pretty cherry
meringue tart. Nazar is behind a program of infused
vodkas well worth sampling, with a flight of
three at $20, flavored with horseradish and
honey, pineapple and, if you dare, a fiercely
hot chile pepper knock-out. There are also
plenty of craft
cocktails that come in lovely glassware. Twenty
percent of the proceeds from the sale of one
made of clarified borscht fortified with vodka
go to Revived Soldiers Ukraine to provide
medical treatment and suppliesto
wounded Ukrainian soldiers. The wine list is modest. Wines by the
glass are identified only by varietal, not
label. It’s facile to say that dining at Slava
gives you the feeling of being part of something
bigger than just eating and drinking. I would
happily dine at the Russian Tea Room without
compunctions, but at Slava I couldn’t help but
feeling some small degree of camaraderie at this
troubled time of war in Europe.
Open for dinner nightly; for
brunch Sat. & Sun.
❖❖❖
GOING AFTER
HARRY LIME
By John
Mariani
To read previous
chapters of GOING AFTER HARRY LIME go
to thearchive
CHAPTER
TWENTY-EIGHT
They took
their time with dinner at the Indian
restaurant, even had dessert, a cheese-based
dumpling in cream called ras-malai. They finished their beers and got the
bill—David was amazed how cheap it was. Then
he pulled a wrapped package out of his jacket
pocket. “Here’s hoping our little adventure
goes onward,” he said. “What is this?”
asked Katie, looking straight at him. “Open it and find out. Something no
girl reporter should be without.” Katie carefully opened the package the
way David always saw women do, and she smiled
broadly. “You got me a new recorder? Jeez,
David, you are a sweetheart. That is so nice
of you!” “I know you never travel without one,
and it helped get us out of one jam before,”
he said, referring to the Capone case. Katie got halfway up from the table and
gave David a kiss on both cheeks. “Grazie
mille! Best present I ever got.” Katie looked the recorder over and
said, “Seems to work the same as my old one.
Same brand.” David nodded. “I bought batteries for
it, too.” “Well, let’s test it out,” she said,
going through the usual counting to five and
playing it back. Katie opened her bag to get her credit
card. She also took out a lipstick and a
compact with a small mirror.She
uncapped the lipstick and applied a single
swipe, but dropped the compact on the table
with the mirror open. Katie reached for it,
then gasped. “What?” asked David. “I think, maybe, I’ve got a clue about
this drug name,” she said, then turned the
compact mirror towards David and handed him
the paper with the drug name on it. “Hold it
up to the mirror.” David did so, seeing the words
“Emeenifed” and “HgaRX” in the mirror, though
reversed. He still didn’t see whatever Katie
saw. He shrugged his shoulders. “Read what you see in the mirror,” said
Katie. “Well, it’s reversed, so it reads
‘defineemE XRagH.’ What’s that supposed to
mean?” “It’s
like an anagram. The name of the drug has the
letters for ‘neem’ in it. Harold Neame.” “Jesus!” “I think Philby’s trying to link Neame
to that Hungarian drug company.He
knew we’d have to go to a pharmacy to find out
there is no such drug and hoped we’d be smart
enough on our own to figure out the name and
connection.” “Holy shit. He must have known this
while we were in his apartment, but it was
probably bugged so he couldn’t say it out
loud.” “Yep,” said Katie, “and he also knew
that if he’d written down Neame’s real name
and address or contact, our fake student
friends might find it.” “So now we have to figure out this
connection to Neame with the drug company.
Maybe he works for them, or once did. Maybe he
was a black market drug dealer in Vienna after
the war and escaped to Hungary with the help
of the Russians.” “And maybe he’s our Harry Lime.” “Did it ever occur to you, Katie, that
Philby is deliberately throwing us off the
trail and getting our attention away from
him?” Katie took her time to answer, then
said, “That’s a real possibility, isn’t it?” “Well, whatever is going on, we have a
new excuse to stay in London for a while.” “Or fly to Hungary.” “I think we’d better keep this to
ourselves for now,” said David. “You mean I shouldn’t tell Dobell?” “Not till we have more to go on. Let’s
speak to the pharmacist tomorrow, go over
everything and start from there. I don’t think
we should talk to Lentov or Southey about
this. At least not yet. Remember, according to
both the American and British archives, Harold
Neame disappeared into thin air.” “Or maybe into Hungary,” said Katie,
closing her compact and putting it and the
recorder back in her bag.
The next morning Katie
and David went down to breakfast early, asking
the front desk to alert them to any calls.
Back in David’s room the phone rang at ten
o’clock. It was the pharmacist from Boots. “Mr. Greco, this is Ms. Singh. I’m
afraid I don’t have much more news for you
about the drug you asked about. I called up
HgrRX, which is located in Budapest, and asked
if they had any drugs by the name you gave me,
including any under license in another
country.They said they’d call me back, and I
just heard from them a few minutes ago.They
said they have nothing on record by the name
Emeenifed and never had.” David was
not surprised to hear her answer. “That’s really very nice of you to go
to all that trouble,” said David, who shook
his head at Katie and whispered “No such
drug,” then asked Ms. Singh if she knew
anything about the Hungarian pharmaceutical
company. “They
are probably the largest in Eastern Europe
outside of Germany and Russia. I don’t think
they are much involved in research, more
limited to standard drugs, and I can’t think
of any trademark drugs they make that have a
wide sale outside of Eastern Europe.” “Would you have any idea where I could
find out more about the company?” “There are the usual directories, like
the one I used,” she said, “but I think you might start
with any library with a good business section
or check the pharmaceutical journals.As a
matter of fact, there is one called the Journalof
Pharmacy and the European
Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences,
though they contain mostly published
peer-reviewed studies.” David realized where Katie and he would
be spending the afternoon. Then Ms. Singh said, “Ah, it just
occurred to me, Mr. Greco!I
had a professor in my college whose specialty
was the history of the pharmaceutical industry
in Europe. Would you like his name? I’m sure
he’d be happy to speak with you.” David said that would be so helpful,
copied down the man’s name—Dr. Kenneth
Passamore—and phone number at King’s College.
He thanked her profusely, hung up and told
Katie what the woman had told him. “Maybe this Professor Passamore can
save us from plowing through the library
stacks,” said David. “Hey, I love plowing through library
stacks,” said Katie, “but I admit this guy
could give us a shortcut.Shall
I
call him?” “Be my guest,” said David and handed
her the phone. They were delighted that the professor
answered the phone at his office, and Katie
explained what she and David were after in the
matter of HgrRX and if he knew anything about
it. She didn’t mention Harold Neame, or Harry
Lime. “Ah, yes, Hungarian Pharm,” he replied.
“A very big and rather controversial company,
I must say.” Katie was hoping she and David could
meet Passamore rather than get the information
over the telephone—she’d always prefer to
interview a source in person, perhaps to put
him in her story, and shied away from sources
who refused to meet her somewhere. But before she could ask him, Passamore
said, “Are you here in town? Any chance you
could pop over to my office, say, about—what
is it now? Ten-thirty? Oh, why don’t we say in
about an hour?” Katie
was delighted by the invitation and said
they’d be over at 11:30 on the dot. The college was located south of the
Thames, close to London Bridge in Southward,
so Katie and David took the tube to London
Bridge station, and, with the weather being
brilliantly free of clouds, Katie and David
had the time to walk across the Bridge and the
few blocks to the college. As part of King’s College (left)
the campus dated back to 1829, founded by King
George IV (below).On
the way over Katie did a quick study from her
London guidebook and found out that Kings
College had had twelve Nobel Prize winners.
She was also reminded that the poet John Keats
had actually trained there to be a medical
chemist and read that Florence Nightingale and
Joseph Lister were illustrious graduates. “What exactly are we going to ask this
guy?” said David while crossing the Bridge. “I guess whether he’s ever heard of
Harold Neame and if he had any connection to
Hungarian Pharm,” replied Katie. “So we’re going to tell him the whole
story thus far?” Katie thought for a moment then said,
“Let’s just start with what he knows of
Hungarian Pharm’s history then see where we
go.I
don’t think we should get into anything about
Harry Lime and Philby.” “He’s going to want to know why in
God’s name we’re interested in some pharmacy
company in Budapest,” said David. “Well, I can’t lie and say we’re doing
a story on the company. We’ll have to give him
something about why we’re so interested.” “Okay,” said David, “let’s just see how
it goes until he asks us why we want to know
what we want to know.” “Fine with me,” she said. “If we do
need to say more, you say it, okay?” “Wonder if he’s ever seen the movie The
Third Man.” “Hard to imagine he hasn’t, especially
since it’s about a guy selling bad penicillin
in the British Sector of post-war Vienna.” Professor Passamore’s office was like a
thousand others in academia: A box with a desk
piled high with books and papers, two chairs
and pictures and mementos hung on the walls
along with Post-its of various sizes and
colors. “Ah, the Yanks have landed,” he said,
getting up from his chair and excusing himself
to bring another into the cramped room. “We
can stay here or go out to the common room, if
you like.” Katie and David said the office was
fine. Passamore was in his fifties, quite
bald with wire-rimmed glasses, striped bow tie
and a pale yellow tattersall shirt.A
doctor’s white coat was on a hangar in the
corner. “So, tell me. You are interested in
knowing about Hungary Pharm? May I ask the
reason?” Katie said, “Well, as I said on the
phone, I’m a journalist and I’m looking into
certain connections that grew out of the drug
trade after World War II.” “And why is Hungary Pharm part of this
. . . investigation?” asked Passamore,
assuming the tone of a professor overseeing a
student seeking guidance. David knew he had to give Passamore
some of the story thus far. He went on to
explain, with as little detail as possible,
that they were following a story about Harry
Lime, who had been involved in the black
market drug trade in Vienna after the war. Passamore leaned back in his chair and
put his hands together. “And again—forgive me, but what has
this to do with Hungary Pharm. Harry Lime was
a fictional character in that Orson Welles
movie, correct?” David further explained that they’d
gotten a name of a real-life black marketeer
of the time who may or may not have something
to do with Hungary Pharm. Passamore nodded and said, “I see. And
this man was an American?” “No, he was British and apparently got
into the black market but escaped capture and
his whereabouts are unknown.” “And the man’s name was?” “Harold Neame,” answered Katie. Passamore turned the name over in his
head and repeated it a few times, then said,
“The name doesn’t ring any kind of bell, but
it may be of interest to know that Hungary
Pharm’s owner—it’s not publicly traded—is
rumored to be British but is known by a
Hungarian name, Gorgo Toth.” “Well, that’s something,” said David.
“Do you know anything about him?” “I know more about the company overall
than about Toth, but what I do know about both
is somewhat controversial within the industry.
Hungary Pharm does not have the most reputable
image, at least not in the Western world. In
the East, in countries like Hungary,
pharmaceutical companies must file papers that
any drugs they sell outside
of their country meet international standards
as established by the World Health
Organization.But within their own country and others
in the East, those standards are not so
strict, and Hungary Pharm is a company that
has been more than once accused of selling
sub-standard products.I
did a little research while you were on your
way over and found a few items that may be of
interest to you.”
Jordan Vineyard &
Winery’s story is well known to aficionados.
Thwarted in his efforts to purchase a château in
France in the early 1970s, oil millionaire Tom
Jordan and his wife Sally (above) built one in
Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. They then hired a
young energetic winemaker, Rob Davis, and a
consultant, the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff, who
had produced the highly acclaimed George de La Tour
Cabernets of Beaulieu Vineyards, and purchased
barrels from Château Lafite Rothschild. Since
its first vintage in 1976 the iconic winery has
continued to excite and please consumers with its
only two wines, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
On a recent visit I had the opportunity to not only
taste its new vintages but also meet with its second
generation owner, John Jordan (left), who
took over the reins in 2007. Of
note, I found the 2021 Chardonnay akin to a good
Meursault,with
toasty flavors and a crisp finish—a worthy mate for
most seafare or even veal. The 2019 Cabernet was
extremely elegant in the style of French Margaux
reds, with flavors of ripe plums and cherries,
perfect to accompany grilled lamb, pork or beef.
You only make two
wines. Any plans to expand the list and, if not,
why not? Also, any thought to increasing
production from what you currently produce?
Since the 1970s, Jordan has
remained dedicated to crafting one elegant Cabernet
Sauvignon and one Chardonnay wine. We believe every
vintage should be better than the last, and we spare
no expense in that pursuit. There are no immediate
plans to expand beyond our current wines, which
allows winemaker Maggie Kruse and her team to focus
on perfecting and evolving our two iconic varietals.
Our limited production not only upholds the highest
standards but also preserves the integrity of our
estate and reflects our commitment to sustainable
winemaking practices.
Your sister Judy
Jordan sold her nearby winery (J) to Gallo a few
years ago. Any thoughts of selling?
We have no plans of selling
Jordan Vineyard & Winery. Our commitment lies in
upholding the legacy and rich history of our estate,
and we are eagerly looking forward to the future.
You have a relatively new winemaker with Maggie
Kruse (below) after Rob Davis.
Have you noticed any major changes since she
started “making” the wine?
Maggie joined the Jordan
family in 2006 as enologist, so she is certainly no
stranger to our winemaking process. Since Maggie
officially assumed the role of head winemaker in
2019, after learning from Rob for over a decade, she
has continued to uphold our commitment to constant
evolution while honoring the estate’s esteemed
history. At the helm, Maggie ensures that as a
winery, we maintain our tradition of crafting a
balanced, elegant Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignon
and Burgundy-style Chardonnay, with an emphasis on
their food pairing affinity. While staying true to
our core values, Maggie has also introduced her own
sustainability methods and innovations, including
the use of eight 476-gallon concrete egg fermenters
to enhance the mouth-feel and preserve the delicate
fruit flavors in upcoming Chardonnay vintages. She
has also started to source from new Chardonnay
blocks in accordance with warmer climates and has
established new Merlot vineyard blocks to preserve
Jordan’s most important blending grape.
Any thoughts of
changing or modifying the “style” of one or both
of your wines?
Maggie and the winemaking
team are always looking for ways to evolve and
improve the current style of our wines, without
completely changing its foundation and staying true
to our core values. The highly anticipated 2019
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon that was released this
year (Maggie’s inaugural cabernet vintage as head
winemaker) delivers an extraordinary range of
characteristics and unique expression that sets it
apart from our previous vintages. Equally exciting
is our 2021 Jordan Chardonnay, also released this
year, which was made with the introduction of
cooler-climate vineyard sites in the western Russian
River Valley. By sourcing from cooler-climate
vineyard sites, we can maintain our
Burgundian-inspired Chardonnay that we are so
well-known for.
It’s said that if a
restaurant has Jordan Cabernet on its list, it is
the most popular red wine sold at the
establishment. Why
do you think that is?
Our cabernet is
exceptionally versatile and has an incredible way of
pairing with most cuisines, which contributes to its
popularity as a coveted choice on several wine
lists. Year after year, we are dedicated to
delivering a quality red wine that oenophiles know
they can count on.
Tell me about some
of the programs onsite for visitors.
At Jordan, we offer guests
a range of intimate wine pairing experiences set
within our vast 1,200-acre estate. Our culinary
team, led by Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren, crafts
inventive, seasonal cuisine sourced straight from
our winery garden that’s thoughtfully paired with
every sip of Jordan wine. I recommend our premium
tasting experiences, such as the Estate Tour &
Tasting, where you can savor seasonal farm-to-table
bites alongside standout Jordan vintages across our
estate. For an unforgettable stay, our onsite
Château Guest Suites provide an exclusive wine
country retreat for Gold and Platinum members of our
Jordan Estate Rewards program. At Jordan, we take
great pleasure in providing an exceptional and
immersive experience for our valued guests and look
forward to welcoming visitors, both old and new.
❖❖❖
THINGS WE DOUBT COLOMBIAN
CHEFS WAX ABOUT
“In a tiny
Colombian beachfront town, a globally acclaimed chef
was waxing poetic about a Schmear.”—Abbie Kozolchyk,
“Savoring the Flavors of Caribbean Colombia,”New
York Times.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.