© John Mariani, 2016

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

Those with even a mild interest in wine are familiar with territorial names like Napa, Sonoma, Willamette and the Finger Lakes. But ask even a serious wine lover about wineries on New York’s Long Island, and you’re likely to get a blank stare. Which is not surprising for two reasons: Long Island wineries only date back to the 1970s, and, because of a robust sale of their wines from both the North and South Forks at the wineries themselves, vintners have until now not sought wide representation beyond Long Island, not even in Manhattan restaurants.

This is now changing as more and more wineries open and the focus on terroir and varietals is more exciting than ever. Of these changes I spoke to Kareem Massoud (below), President of Long Island Wine Country and winemaker at Paumanok and Palmer Vineyards.

 

 

How many wineries are currently active on Long Island and are more in the planning stage?

Long Island boasts 57 distinct wine producers, who are divided between the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons), and western Suffolk County. The region generates about half a million cases of wine annually that are distributed domestically and internationally.

 

How would you describe the various terroirs—North and South—that make them different from one another for planting?

On the North Fork, our terroir is defined by a prevailing cool, maritime climate with sandy, loamy soils. Since we are on an island and surrounded by water, these bodies of water act as giant heat sinks in the winter,  insulating us from the extreme lows measured further inland, and in the summer they act as coolers, moderating the heat recorded in the city and inland. At harvest we often experience a late hot summer elongated by our maritime climate.
    The topography on the North Fork is primarily flat. We succeed as a wine growing region because our soils drain incredibly well. The top soils are a sandy loam, followed by sandy, gravelly subsoils below. This makes for excellent drainage. Geologically, Long Island is a glacial moraine. Our soils were described by Prof. Gérard Seguin, (U. of Bordeaux) as similar to those of Les Graves. The third aspect of terroir is the human component. On Long Island, wine growers like ourselves have concluded that viticultural practices, such as maintaining an open canopy and leaf removal to expose the fruit, are critical to achieving our goal of growing the healthiest, ripest fruit obtainable.
    The chief differences on the South Fork have to do with heavier soils and cooler temperatures. While the South Fork is generally cooler than the North Fork there is ample heat accumulation to fully ripen the most commonly grown varieties: Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The prevalent soil type in The Hamptons is Bridgehampton loam. This soil type rates Grade A, according to USDA, the most fertile rating. In addition, the soils are extremely well-draining, same as the North Fork. This makes row crop farming a dream in The Hamptons. For vineyards high fertility is not always desirable and so vineyard sites are not necessarily located on the most fertile sites.

 

How is the terroir different from the Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley?

The key differences in terroir between Long Island and any other wine region in New York is that Long Island is defined by its maritime climate. The Finger Lakes experience a more continental climate moderated by the lakes—not unlike a wine growing nation like Germany, where it is predominantly a cool climate for the whole country but with warmer and cooler zones among regions. The Mosel and Rheingau produce Rieslings with higher acidity and lower alcohol, while regions such as the Pfalz and Baden produce Rieslings with more alcohol and lower acidity.
    In general, that analogy holds between the Finger Lakes and Long Island,  with Long Island being generally warmer and the Finger Lakes cooler, especially in the winter. The Hudson Valley lies geographically and climatically between the two. Long Island’s maritime climate helps moderate the extreme temperatures in both summer and winter. A vivid example of this occurred on May 18, 2023, when the Finger Lakes region experienced a severe frost whereas Long Island emerged from that night virtually unscathed. On the other hand, Long Island is more likely to suffer from hurricanes than regions further inland. Fortunately, strong hurricanes have been quite rare throughout Long Island’s viticultural history, over the past 50 years.

 

Have heat and climate change affected the vineyards?

Yes, as with most growers around the world, we have noticed earlier bud breaks and earlier harvest dates over the years. When my parents first started harvesting their grapes in the mid-’80s, harvest occurred in October. Now we are harvesting throughout September and even in August for early ripeners used for traditional method sparkling wine, such as Pinot Noir. 

 

What is the Sustainability Certification ?

Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization that provides education and certification for Long Island vineyards. LISW uses international standards of sustainable practices in quality wine-grape production that have been refined for the northeast and utilized through the VineBalance Workbook. These practices are based on an independent, 3rd-party-verified checklist system consisting of recommended and prohibited practices and materials, thoughtful planning and numerous ecological options.

 

How many varietals are planted and which are the most important that thrive particularly well?

There are two or three dozen varieties that are being grown across Long Island. The top performers include Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc followed closely by Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Chenin Blanc.

 

Top row: Andrew Kim, Cellar Master at Macari Vineyards; James Christopher Tracy, Winemaker/Partner at Channing Daughters Winery; Shelby Hearn, General Manager at Suhru Wines; Anthony Nappa, Winemaker at Raphael Vineyard; Kareem Massoud, Winemaker at Paumanok Vineyards; Macey Reichel, Tasting Room Manager at Lenz Winery; Alie Shaper, Owner & Winemaker at Chronicle Wines; Patrick Caserta, Winemaker at Rose Hill Vineyard; Brewster McCall from McCall Wines; Bottom Row: Left to Right: Gilles Martin, Winemaker at Sparkling Pointe Vineyards; Roman Roth, Winemaker/Partner at Wölffer Estate Vineyard; Russell McCall, Founder of McCall Wines; Photographer Eric Vitale, The Beekman Hotel.

What about Bordeaux blends?

From early on the parallels to Bordeaux were clear: maritime climate, prevailing flat topography, well-draining soils and similar rainfall and heat accumulation. Therefore, it was logical to plant Bordeaux varieties, and not surprisingly these have done very well. Of course, there is overlap with Loire varieties. Loire varieties have done equally well. On Long Island we now have Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne. In any case, Bordeaux blends have performed well on Long Island, yielding wines that are moderate to full-bodied, well-structured and age-worthy.

 

Wölffer Estates makes an excellent Riesling. Is Long Island terroir conducive to that varietal?

Wölffer does make an excellent Riesling. German-born winemaker Roman Roth has excelled with this variety for many years. It is also worth noting that Paumanok has been growing Riesling since 1983 and has earned numerous accolades, including Best Overall Riesling in New York at the 2015 New York Wine Classic.
     Long Island's terroir is conducive to growing Riesling, which thrives in cool climates, and that is what we have on Long Island. Riesling is most famous in Germany, and great Riesling is found all over the wine regions from Rheingau to Baden. The regions further north produce Rieslings with higher acidity and sometimes a leaner style. Those further south, such as the Pfalz — where my mother was born and raised— and Baden, may have lower acidity and slightly higher alcohols, in general. And so it is in New York when we compare the Rieslings of the Finger Lakes to those from Long Island. Ironically, our sandy soils are not dissimilar from those found in the Pfalz. The Finger Lakes Rieslings are more likely to resemble wines from the Mosel or Rheingau.

 

What will the 50th anniversary program be about?

Our 50th Anniversary celebration will be an incredible tribute to the wines and the people who make Long Island a remarkable wine region. We've got an exciting day planned on Saturday, August 19, at Peconic Bay Vineyards. During the event, we'll feature wines from more than 35 Long Island Wineries, providing guests with a unique opportunity to explore a wide range of exceptional local wines. We're also partnering with over 20 top culinary talents from the area, serving up delectable bites that perfectly complement the wines.
    What makes this celebration truly special is the emphasis on diversity. We want to showcase the various wine styles and the incredible foods cultivated on both the North and South Forks of Long Island. So, whether you're a fan of traditional methôde champénoise sparkling wine or you're intrigued by the trendy “pet-nat” varieties, we've got something to satisfy every palate. And for those who appreciate the distinctive "maritime minerality" of white wines, or seek out rare red library wine selections from our best vintages, we have dishes specially crafted to complement each wine style.
It will be a coming together of wine makers, owners, growers and Long Island wine enthusiasts. It will also be an excellent occasion for anyone new to Long Island wine to discover the wines, the people and the region. We can't wait to share this joyous occasion with everyone who attends. For any wine enthusiast interested in celebrating, tickets can be found here.

 

 

Describe some of the agro-tourism on the island. How many wineries are open to the public.

Most wineries are open to the public seven days a week in the summer and fall. Some stay open year round; some close for some of the winter months. Each winery has something special. Many offer cheese, charcuterie and other foods to be paired with the wines. Many offer tours, education opportunities, and others are pet-friendly. For anyone interested in planning a visit to the region, Long Island Wine Country has a section on the website, where visitors can search for winery options, things to do in the area, restaurants, lodging, and events. 

 

Finding L.I. wines is not that easy in stores or restaurants because so much of those wines produced are sold at the wineries. Will this change? 

This is based on each winery’s business model. A small winery that can sell most of what it produces at retail is unlikely to venture into the wholesale market if it hasn’t done so already. On the other hand, if such a winery is looking to grow, this is one avenue for growth. Several wineries are either self-distributed in New York with a significant retail presence on Long Island and New York City and others through bigger distributors.

 

Is there a campaign to sell more L.I. wines at stores and restaurants?

Yes, we have started hosting a perennial “portfolio tasting” of Long Island wines, trying to bring all the wines of the region under one roof for members of the trade to sample and evaluate. There is still more work to be done on this front. Long Island is a very small wine region and we have limited marketing resources. But providing a forum where buyers can be exposed to our wines on a regular basis continues to be a top priority.

 

Is there much international interest in L.I. wines? Any investors? 

Again, Long Island is a very small wine region and so the interest could be considered proportional to the scale. Long Island wines are exported to countries such as the UK, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Japan, Germany, Taiwan and Canada, and there may be more that I am missing. There have been several transactions in recent years in which Long Island wineries have sold to new owners. Shinn Estate (now Rosehill) and Croteaux sold to Randy Frankel. Laure Lake Vineyards, which was owned by a group of Chilean investors, sold to television personality Dan Abrams, who has renamed it Ev & Em. The Rivero Gonzales family, which owns and operates a winery in Mexico, acquired what is now RGNY (formerly Martha Clara). And one local winery, Paumanok, bought another, Palmer. This was not the first time this happened. Years ago Macari Vineyards acquired what used to be Galluccio Family Wineries. 

 

Since real estate is so expensive in Long Island, especially the Hamptons, is there still land for sale for new development of a winery? Are sections zoned only for agriculture ?

Yes, even with intense development pressure, there are still over 30,000 acres of farmland on Eastern Long Island. Vineyards represent about 10% of that, so there is room to grow. We operate in a unique real estate market, because we are surrounded by water. So increasing the supply of real estate (by pushing into another county in other parts of the country) is not an option, and so when demand is high, the price goes up. Land values are expensive and new entrants to the business must be well-funded as this is a very capital-intensive business. And, of course, an investment in a Long Island vineyard and winery is as much about the real estate as the wine business itself. However, there is still a pathway to profitability for those with well-thought-out business models.

 

 

FOOD WRITING 101: TRY NOT TO USE MORE
THAN THREE CLICHÉS IN A SINGLE PARAGRAPH   

"With the anticipation of several hot new menu items, heartwarming cuisine creations and additions of some incredible top chefs, Coloradans are chomping at the bit to see what’s coming down the pipe. Here’s the inside scoop on what’s going to make our mouths water this summer.—Kerrie Lee Brown, “What's Cookin’” Colorado Expressions (7/23).