Dario Cecchini,
Panzano, Italy, Butcher, withlombatasteaks
forbistecca
alla fiorentina
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK
MŌLI By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER
ELLA FUNT
By John Mariani
GOING AFTER HARRY LIME
CHAPTER 37
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
VERY GOOD WINES FOR
VERY GOOD PRICES By John Mariani
❖❖❖
MŌLI
253
Greenwich Avenue
Greenwich, Connecticut
203-900-4567
By John
Mariani
The enticing thing about recreating
a Chinese nightclub from the 1930s is that
nobody’s around any longer to contradict
your fantasy. So the three-month old Mōli in
Greenwich has a unique glamor that derives
from the soaring, two-story décor of tiled
arches by Rafael Guastavino, who’d done the
same spectacular work at Ellis Island and
the Grand Central Oyster Bar. At
the time, 1915, the building was Putnam Trust Bank,
meant to manifest the solidity of an
institution where people would feel safe
putting their money. Now, as Mōli, its size
(2,500 square feet, with 110 seats), height
and the addition of a crystal chandelier big
enough for a production of “Phantom of the
Opera,” give it the aura of a Shanghai
speakeasy where Indiana Jones might show up
in a white dinner jacket. For owners K Dong and chef Steven Chen,
who also have in their stable Kumo Sushi
Lounge, Miku Sushi and Hinoki in Greenwich,
this is their first Chinese venture, and on
premises is Executive Chef Tin Huynh, of
Chinese parentage,
raised in New York City, a graduate of the
French Culinary Institute and veteran of large
Asian nightclubs like Tao and Hutong in New
York. Given that genre’s appeal to a bar and
set-up crowd, speakers boom out bass and
drums, making conversation very difficult,
though not quite so much on the upper level
that overlooks the lower, so ask for a table
upstairs. Even when we left around ten o’clock
and the bar was near empty, the noise was
still relentlessly pounding away. Mōli has a large menu in various
categories, starting with carefully composed,
lustrous sushi, like yellowtail ($22) and a
lovely array of heirloom beets marinated with
a yuzu-soya marinade, watercress and almond
purée ($19). There are five dim sum offerings,
and I particularly enjoyed the “rainbow” soup
“four
flavors” ofpork, shrimp, squash and truffle
mushroom ($20). Crispy eggplant glazed with caramelized
fried garlic and scallions ($19) is
tantalizing, and the Mandarin-style whole
branzino with sweet-and-sour sauce ($42) is
superbly juicy. You definitely should order a
noodle dish, like the Taiwanese mélange of
shrimp, scallops and yellow chives ($32), a
good dish to share. A hefty, well-fatted lamb
chop is scented by coriander ($39). Fried rice ($28) is riddled with
morsels of duck. Bok choy Shanghai-style ($16)
is first poached, then dressed with a miso
butter sauce. Honey walnut shrimp ($20) is not
as sweet as some versions, balancing salty,
sweet and savory. As well, braised shortribs
($22) were rich with caramelized fat and
coconut milk. Filet mignon was treated to an
abundance of black pepper ($45). Of course, Chinese chefs pride
themselves on their Peking duck ($125), which
comes tableside and is lighted with a blue
flame merely for dramatic effects, then sliced
with both its crisp skin and meat wrapped in a
nearly translucent Chinese pancake
and served with hoisin sauce. It is designed
to be shared by at least four people as a
first course. Mōli goes further than most Chinese
restaurants with desserts, including pleasing
version of tiramisù, flavored with milk tea,
but the addition of jasmine did little for amousse
cake ($15). Sommelier Isaiah Levy stocks a wine
list of considerably more depth and breadth
than is usual in Chinese restaurants, and of
course there are a slew of exotic cocktails. The menu at Mōli breaks little new
ground, and it would be good to see some
unusual dishes not found elsewhere, but this
is fine classic Chinese cooking, and if you
want to wear a white dinner jacket, you’ll
feel quite swank amidst the theatrical
surroundings.
Open daily for lunch and
dinner.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
ELLA
FUNT
78-80 East Fourth
Street
212-970-8082
By
John Mariani
Photos by Seth Kaplan
Ella
Funt is a
restaurant of winks and nudges, puns and
poetry. Cocktails at the up-front bar have
names like Sorry Sally, Drunk Man at the
Cabaret and Picnic in a Garden (made with
Supergay vodka). A mural in the dining room is
a homage to Picasso, the tilted shelves to Dr.
Caligari and the objets d’art to Dada.
The rest rooms are splashed with paint or
tiled in silver. The ceilings seem covered
with big Post-Its. The menus come in marbled
schoolbook covers. The
name
of the restaurant, one comes to realize, is a
play on the word “elephant,” but also refers to
a famous zaftig drag queen (below) of the
1950s admired by Salvador Dalí at a bar at this
location called Club 82, run by the Genovese
crime family.By
the 1980s it had lost all its luster and, after
a run as a gay bar, was shuttered as an artifact
of New York queer history. Happily, then, entrepreneur Lounes
Mazouz, along with architect Annabel Karim
Kassar, have brought the space back to life as a
serious restaurant and bar, with live music on
weekends, and it has already attracted a crowd
from beyond its East Village location. Koustefanou,
28,
a Miami native, came to the Big Apple in 2017 to
work at a vegetarian restaurant named Nix, as
well as Le Cou Cou, Kissaki and Peak at
Hudson Yards. Now, Nick brings his talents to
Ella, along with sous chef Ziumana Meite,
fashioning a Franco-Mediterranean menu of just
the right size to come out of such a small
open kitchen. They serve very good bread and a good
amount of butter, though it will cost you $8.
For starters there is a silky tuna slice with a
tangy dressing of grapefruit, pickled baby
ginger, shiso
and a sweetened fish sauce ($22). I see the
word “croquettes” and I become Pavlovian, unable
to resist ordering these pastry puffs full of
pork, Comté cheese, a mayo mustard and cornichon
($15). There are also “petits
plats” that include Sungold and heirloom
tomatoes with a tomato jam, Japanese san
balzu sauce and smoked trout with nori ($20),
the last flavors of summer. It’s a better choice
than the too-simple grilled squash with
crabmeat, almond and chili sauce ($27). Best of
all were the sweetbreads ($36), which I’m told
sell very well, with the unexpected addition of
lobster, chanterelle mushrooms and a sauce
americaine. Larger dishes begin with an excellent
roast chicken with asparagus, stone fruit and
grilled
sucrine lettuce in a careful glossy reduction
($38). Also first rate was a whole fish
($65)—that night a meaty dorade—grilled to
succulence, with a delicious green curry, pea
leaves and wax beans (which I’d like to see more
of on menus). It was also wonderful to find sauce
estragon married with simple, perfectly
grilled ten-ounce strip steak and little peas
($65). Desserts are also straightforward and
very good, including a citron tart ($16), a deep
dark chocolate mousse ($16) and a cheese sorbet
with berries ($12). The charming and enthusiastic sommelier
Juliete Dos Santos stocks some very
out-of-the-ordinary wines on her list, so trust
her to match them with your food choices. The
service staff rushes about earnestly but could
use the addition of another waiter. Ella Funt would
certainly not be out of place in any outer
arrondissement of Paris, where amidst tough
competition it would rank among the best. Here
in New York, where we have plenty of every kind
of restaurant, Ella Funt stands out as something
both traditional for its menu and uniquely a
part of the East Village history it now adds to
with such color and verve.
Open nightly for dinner.
❖❖❖
GOING AFTER
HARRY LIME
By John
Mariani
To read previous
chapters of GOING AFTER HARRY LIME go
to thearchive
CHAPTER 37
“How many English language papers
could there be in Bangkok?” David asked Katie. “I can’t imagine many,” she said. “I could
ask Boyer or Spollen.” A quick phone call revealed that there were
only two possible Bangkok newspapers Pogue might
be writing for—the Nation
and The
Bangkok Post; the latter had by far the
larger circulation with more widespread coverage
of everything from business to books. Katie
checked the time difference between Bangkok and
London. London was seven hours behind. It was then
two p.m. in London, so Katie thought it would be
better to call the paper the next morning at about
seven or eight.
“What
exactly do you think this guy Pogue can tell you?”
asked David over dinner.
"I hope more than we know about
Toth," she said. “I’m hoping he’ll reveal
something useful to us, something he might know
about Philby that we don’t and will help me
convince Alan to approve our going to Hungary.” “Don’t we already know all we need to know
about Philby?” asked David, thinking that they
should be preparing to track down Harold
Neame. Get a good night’s sleep. I’ll call
the paper in the morning and let you know what, if
anything, I find out.”
Katie got a direct
contact number of an editor from Tom Spollen for
the news desk at the Bangkok Post.
Her first two attempts got her a recording, both
in English and Thai. Third time, at about two
o’clock Bangkok time, she reached an editor named
Horn, who told her that Pogue was a writer for the
paper but didn’t have a desk there. “He usually checks in a few times a week,”
said Horn. “I can have him call you if you give me
a number. Can I tell him what this is about?” Katie explained she was a journalist for McClure’s
on a story Pogue might be able to help her with.
Horn said he’d pass on the message. Katie hoped that Pogue could reach her cell
phone anywhere but worried that the international
connections might be iffy in Budapest. She’d much
prefer to have more ammo for Alan Dobell. In the meantime, while David checked out
flights and hotels in Budapest, Katie was trying
to decide how she’d get her boss into paying for
the trip.She’d
already gotten a message from him asking why she
was still in London. When she got no word from
Pogue by that evening Katie began thinking of
packing and planning her next move. Then, the next morning her phone rang, a
voice saying, “Hello, this is Jonathan Pogue. I’m
trying to reach Katie Cavuto of McClure’s
magazine.” With David in the room, Katie put her phone
on speaker and responded, thanking Pogue for
calling back and asked if he wanted her to call
him back on her phone bill.
e said in British accent that seemed dulled
by years away from England. “Just tell me what
this is all about. I’ve got to be on a plane in
three hours.” Katie had told her story so many times by
then that she had it down to a brief patter,
edited for the specific person she was speaking
to.She
told Pogue her own background and how David and
she had been trying to research the Harry Lime
story, got to interview the Philbys and were
booted out of Moscow. “You got off bloody easy,” said Pogue.
“That little caper cost me five years of my life
in a fuckin’ freezing Soviet gulag. I never did
try to connect Philby with Lime. Too farfetched.
But before I answer any more of your questions, I
have several for you." Pogue wanted to know how Katie and David
had found out Philby was still alive and living in
Moscow, how they got in to see him, and if they
were sure the people in the apartment were really
the Philbys.Katie answered his questions—leaving out
Lentov—and insisting that she was sure they’d seen
the Philbys. She then described the circumstances
of how she and David were escorted out of Russia,
but she withheld the information about meeting the
MI6 men in London. “And
just
how did you find me?” he asked. “After I got out
of prison I thought I’d been pretty good keeping
out of sight until the last few years here in
Bangkok.”
"I was able
to get in touch with your ex-fiancée, Peggy.” There was a long silence on the line, Katie
thinking the connection had broken up, then Pogue
said, “How is Peggy, if you know?” “She’s fine. She got married, has two kids.
She believes you are dead.” “And did you tell her otherwise?” “Not yet. I thought if you and I spoke,
you’d tell me if you want me to or not.” “Peggy was a great girl, love of my life
and all that. But even if I hadn’t been arrested
by the Russians, I doubt it would have worked out,
with me flying all over the world.Typical
of our profession, eh? You married, Cavuto?" “No, and I understand what you’re saying.”
David chimed in on the speaker phone. “Mr. Pogue,
this is David Greco. I’m helping Katie with her
investigation. What I wanted to ask you was why
you never went back to London when you got out of,
I think it was Perm 36?” Pogue exploded. “How the bloody hell do you
know all this about me? Where’d you get all your
information? Did Philby tell you?” “No, Katie and I never heard of you until
we got back to London.” Katie said, “I think you might know the two
journalists I spoke with—Christopher Boyer at the
Times
andThomas
Spollen at The
Guardian? They recalled you wrote for their
papers on occasion.” “Boyer and Thomas, eh? I suppose they’re
still sitting on their fat arses at their desks?
So they
knew about my going off to Moscow?” “No,” said Katie, “they just had some info
in their files that you had disappeared without
any more contact. Apparently Peggy’s phone number
was in your file.” “Well, my Philby story would have blown the
fuckin’ roof off both those papers, but they
didn’t see fit to assign me. Said unless I had a
source or two that confirmed my belief that Philby
was still alive, then fuck me. I went off on my
own.” “So you
didn’t have a source to back up your hunch?” “No, but the announcement of Philby’s death
seemed to me much too pat. The Soviets did it all
the time. Someone no one had given a bloody
thought to in a while suddenly shows up dead,
thanks to the Soviets. In the case of Philby,
after he’d written those phony memoirs, he was
better off dead, at least to the world, so the
Russians took their time announcing he had died,
and that was that. I suspected otherwise. I used
some contacts to get into Russia and went from
there. The Philbys’ address was not a secret by
then. Kim was said to be buried in a plot in the
graveyard, but that meant nothing. Probably an
empty grave or they tossed in some murdered
dissident. There's a big marble slab with Philby's
name on it. Ha, it’s the only part
of the Philby-Lime stories that have anything in
common.” David asked, “So you
just knocked on their door and got in?” “I had a bigger set of balls back then,”
said Pogue. “But the labor camp diet whittled them
down a good deal. Now I just cover local news for
the English-speaking readers in Bangkok. I’ve even
managed to stay clear of writing about the royal
family, which could get me fucking arrested just
as easily as my snooping around Moscow.” “So you
knocked on the door and . . .” “The landlady came down and tried to shoo
me off, but then Philby’s wife appeared. The fact
I was a Brit somehow softened her up. She said her
husband would enjoy speaking to a fellow
countryman after so many years. She took me
upstairs, and there he was, big as life, and
acting very, very British indeed.”
“You say
acting?” asked Katie. “Meaning he was trying to sound like the
old Cambridge graduate he had once been. Slipped
right into the sound of it." “So you don’t have any reason to believe
you were actually interviewing two actors, then?” “Oh, that pile of horseshit! After I was
arrested—it happened the next day as I was
planning to get my arse out of Moscow—I was told I
had stupidly interviewed two actors who were
living in the Philbys’ flat. They said I’d fallen
for their ruse. Of course, I knew it was
bollocks.”
"So they arrested you but
didn’t extradite you back to London, as they did
with David and me?” “No, Miss Cavuto, they did not. Remember,
this was a year before the fuckin’ Soviet Union
blew up in their faces. They probably knew it was
coming, so they were already covering tracks in
case glasnost
really came to Old Mother Russia. They could
hardly allow me to fly back to London and spill
the Philby story to the world. So, they tried me
in a Soviet court—the trial lasted one
afternoon—and threw my arse in jail with the rest
of their political prisoners.” “And the British embassy didn’t try to get
you out?” asked David. “I have to assume the fuckers did their
absolute least
to do so. At first they probably didn’t know
where the fuck I was, but after the Soviet Union
disintegrated they must have known.”
"Actually,”
said David, “they did.” “Fuckers. And you ask me why I didn’t
return to England after they left me to rot in
that hellhole of a prison? Right now I wish I had been
a spy and been turned by the Russians. But I had
nothing to give them. They just wanted me out of
sight and mind, and when I got out they asked me
where I’d like a one-way ticket to.” “Where’d you go?” asked Katie.
"I wanted
somewhere there was no post-colonial British
presence. So I chose Bangkok, and inside of a
month, I started freelancing for the Post
here.Turned
into steady work. I’m a man without a country and
bloody happy to be one." “And you never tried to publish the Philby
story?” “On the basis of what? A
one-hour interview with two old fuckers in the
Philbys’ flat? Who was going to pick up on that idea?
No, I guess I’ll have to leave that scoop to you
two Americans. Hope you blow the Brits’ bloody
doors off. Create a big scandal! Roll some of
their fuckin’ heads right down Downing Street.” “I don’t suppose you have any of your notes
from the Philby interview?” asked Katie. “Christ, no. They took everything off me,
even went up my arse. More than once.” Katie had pretty much
run out of questions. She felt wholly emboldened
by what Pogue had corroborated and asked if she
could use his story in McClure’s.
"Sure, and
flash it under Boyer’s and Spollen’s noses. Tell
them they could have had the story ten years ago.” “Last question,” said David. “Did Kim
Philby ever mention the name Harold Neame to you?” Pogue thought for a
moment, then said, “No, not Philby.But I do
recall hearing about a Brit named Neame who
somehow became a big drug czar in, I think,
Hungary.” Katie and David looked at each other, their
mouths open. “Where did you hear about Neame and what
did you hear?” “You hear a lotta horseshit in prison, but
there was an English-speaking Hungarian
prisoner—came in a year or two before I got
there—who was apparently arrested for trying to
expose or sue a guy he said was a partner in a
drug company, a Brit named Neame, who had screwed
him out of millions of dollars or whatever the
fuck they use in Hungary. I recall him saying
Neame dropped that name years ago and had taken on
a Hungarian alias. That’s all I remember hearing.”
“So this guy was put in a Soviet prison in
connection with trying to sue Harold Neame?” asked
David. “Do you know what happened to him?” “Yeah. He died in that cesspool of a
prison. Pneumonia, I think. Medical care was
almost non-existent in there. Barely had any
penicillin.” “Before or after the USSR crumbled?” “Well, let’s see, I think it was just
around the time the whole bloody thing cracked
apart. But he died before they started releasing
anyone like me from Perm 36. So how do you two
know Neame and what’s the connection?” Katie told Pogue how Philby wanted to once
and for all distance his name from Harry Lime’s
and all that drug selling business, leaving Katie
and David a clue as to who really inspired Greene
to invent Lime. “We suspect it’s Harold Neame, now named
Gorgo Toth, one of the biggest pharmaceutical
magnates in Eastern Europe.” “Well, that is
feasible, I suppose,” said Pogue. “Since I wasn’t
hunting for Harry Lime the subject never came up
when I met with Philby.But good
luck with your work, Cavuto.Let me
know how it comes out. I’ve got to catch a plane
to Chiang Mai to do a story on fish farming. Quite
a departure from interviewing Kim Philby.” Katie and David were
thinking the same thing. “So,
Pogue,”
said Katie, sounding more familiar, “Do you want
me to contact Peggy for you? What would you want
me to tell her?” Pogue said, “Nah, but
you’ve made me think I do owe her a call, let her
know I’m alive and happy for her." After hanging up,
David asked, “Well, you think that’ll convince
Dobell to send us to Budapest?” Katie shook her
head. “I don’t know. I’ll make the strongest case
for it. I think this interview with Pogue will fit
nicely into our story, which will give me some
leverage with Alan. I’ll call him soon as he gets
into the office.” Dobell listened
carefully to Katie’s update and said, “It sounds
like you’ve gone on one wild goose chase after
another on this story. Hell, I’m not even sure
what the story is
anymore. Philby alive. Harry Lime not found.
Hungarian drug millionaire—who apparently has nothing to
do with Philby—may be Harry Lime. This has become
a crap shoot, Katie.” “Yeah, Alan, but so
far the dice have rolled pretty much in our
favor.” There was a pause on the line, then an
audible sigh, then, “Ah, what the hell, go to
Budapest, but on one condition: You have an
interview with this Neame guy all set up, day and
hour, before you going flying off to Hungary.
Deal?” “Deal. And if I can’t get that, David and I
will pay our own way, and if it works out to be a
story, you can re-emburse us.” “Just get a confirmed appointment to see
Neame, then call me. This is getting expensive.” “I understand, but just so I can move on
this as quickly as possible, can you overnight a McClure’s
letter of assignment requesting an interview with
Toth to him and one to me? Just say McClure’s
wants to interview him as a captainof his
industry for a special issue of the magazine about
Eastern Europe. Make it vague.” Dobell agreed, and
Katie gave him the address of Toth’s company.She then
changed the subject by talking about Boyer and
Spollen sending their regards.She
didn’t mention the price of the lunch at Wilton’s.
VERY GOOD WINES FOR
VERY GOOD PRICES
By John Mariani
Whether or not
inflation has been curbed, in the world of wine
there are more well priced bottlings than ever,
thanks to both a global glut and the fierce
competition to get a foothold in the market. For
me, a moderately priced wine that gives a good
run for the money when compared with far better
known, much more expensive wines of its genre is
always a true find. Way too many wineries have
priced their wines out of reach for so many wine
drinkers that they become special occasion
wines. But wines that can be thoroughly enjoyed
at a fraction of the price at a greater
frequency is what most people want.Here
are some that fit that criterion.
KELLEREI KURTATSCHMÜLLER
THURGAU ($21)—Müller Thurgau is a cross
between Riesling and Madeleine Royal, developed in
1882, grown on steep, high slopes where they can
experience wide temperature swings from morning
through night. Kellerei Kurtatsch, founded in
1900, is composed of 190 families in Italy’s Alto
Adige, where the wines, though similar to those of
Austria and Switzerland, have a more fruit and
acid and go very well with pasta dishes with wild
mushrooms or risottos.
COMTESSE DE MALET ROQUEFORT BORDEAUX
ROUGE 2022 ($14)—The family of de Malet
Roquefort dates back to 1705 in Saint Émilion, and
their labels include the Premier Cru Château La
Gaffelière. Typical of Saint Émilion, this
remarkably priced Bordeaux is largely Merlot, with
20% Cabernet Franc from a Right Bank vineyard.
Vinified by parcel, it is aged in stainless steel
tanks, so tannins are tame.
CHARLES KRUG SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 ($23)—The
acidity of this particular Sauvignon Blanc,
sourced primarily from Krug’s St. Helena estate,
comes from grapes hand-picked in the cool of
night. You get just enough of the ripe,
grapefruit-like flavors without too much
sweetness, making this very good for an aperitif,
tomatoes and corn, as well as with shrimp and
shellfish.
NORTICO ALVARHINO ($18)—A
Portuguese winner from Olé & Obrigado, sourced
from small farmers in northern regions of Monção
and Melgaço on the Spanish border, which provide
cold, rainy winters and hot, dry summers.
Winemaker Alberto Orte aims to retain the faint
saline flavor from the sea and granite from the
soil, and the Alvarhino (Albariño in Galicia) are
given a long fermentation, racking, primary
filtration and cold stabilization, then four
months in stainless steel. In Portugal it’s a wine
to drink simply with bread and butter, but it’s
very versatile with many appetizers.
COLUMBIA CREST H3 HEAVEN HILLS MERLOT
2019 ($15)—Merlots have been getting more
and more expensive, gaining favor for their lush,
velvety properties. This one is a blend of 86%
Merlot and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, with a 14.5%
alcohol, aged for 20 months in a combination of
new and older French and American oak barrels.
Grapes were crushed and then fermented 7-14 days
on the skins to extract optimum fruit and
structural components. With autumn coming on, this
works wonders with turkey and game dishes.
BENANTI ETNA
D.O.C. BIANCO 2022 ($30)—Sicily is getting
better and better known for its wines, though
mostly for its reds. The white wine Etna D.O.C.
comes, obviously, from volcanic soils around the
eastern slopes of Mount Etna, made from Carricante (60-100%),
Catarratto Bianco Commune or Catarratto Lucido
(max. 40%), with the addition of Trebbiano and/or
Minella Bianca (0-15%). The climate is humid and
rainy, with a cool season, preserving the lovely
pearl-like fruit, so it goes well with grilled or
broiled seafood, and spaghetti with vongole clams.
The retail price is about $30, but I’m seeing it
for considerably less, $22-$25.
SYMINGTON
FAMILY ESTATES QUINTA DE FONTE SOUTO ALICANTE
BOUSCHET 2018 ($14)—Produced at Symington’s
511-acre Quinta da Fonte Souto in Portalegre, a
sub-region of the Alentejo, the name “souto"
means grove—the family’s first property outside the
Douro region. The composition is Alicante Bouschet
(also called Garnacha Tintotera in Spain) with
Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and
Alfrocheiro that tame the rustic red flavors of the
primary variety
❖❖❖
DEPT. OF
SILLY WINESPEAK
Audarya Camminera Vermentino
di Sardegna
2020 :(3
stars). Sardinia, Italy, $24."The
overall impression is texture, as if the evening
breeze off the Mediterranean caressed your cheek
with its breath of salt and limestone,
whispering a memory of the peach you ate earlier
in the day, ripe and juicy with summer’s
warmth."—Dave McIntyre, "Perspective,"WAPO(7/23/23)
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.