❖❖❖ THIS WEEK BARBARIANS INSIDE THE GATE: HOW TOURISM IS RUINING ITALY By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER GABRIEL KREUTHER By Geoff Kalish GOING AFTER HARRY LIME CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR BIG BOLD REDS By John Mariani ❖❖❖
BARBARIANS
INSIDE THE GATE:
HOW TOURISM IS RUINING ITALY By John Mariani Trevi Fountain, Rome In Thailand the government has
closed beaches where tourists have caused
the destruction of the ecology and coral. In
Venice they have banned leviathan-size
cruise ships from docking. But in Rome they
can’t even manage to pick up the garbage. ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER GABRIEL KREUTHER
41 West 42nd Street 212-257-5826 By Geoff Kalish Note: Since my daughter-in-law works at Gabriel Kreuther, I asked my colleague Geoff Kalish to review this restaurant.—John Mariani In celebration of my wife’s birthday,
we recently had dinner at New York City’s
Michelin two-star Gabriel Kreuther restaurant.
Situated across from the New York Public
Library and just outside the border of
Manhattan’s Times Square, this establishment
is a far cry from most pre- or post-Broadway
theater dining spots. Opened
in 1995, it is named for its chef/co-owner,
who has previously held head chef positions at
some of New York’s top eateries, including
Jean-Georges and The Modern at MOMA, and he
has won multiple awards (including the James
Beard award as Best NY Chef in 2009). Open for Lunch
Mon.-Fri.; dinner Tues.-Sat. Dr. Geoff Kalish is
a food and wine writer who lives in Mt. Kisco, NY
❖❖❖ GOING AFTER HARRY LIME By John Mariani
Katie
and David saw no benefit in telling Toth
anything else, since it appeared his plan was to
keep them from ever leaving that room. David
said, “It was simpler than that. I just checked
the military archives and your name turned up in
both the American and British records.” © John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
BIG BOLD REDS By John Mariani "Dionysius" by Caravaggio
Fifty years ago, when the wines of
California stirred worldwide interest for their
sun-rich body and big flavors, many of the
state’s vintners made their overnight reputation
on the basis of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with
alcohol levels above 14.5% alcohol, in contrast
to Bordeaux models that were almost always
blends of varietals in addition to Cabernet
Sauvignon and with alcohol levels that rarely
topped 14%. The California style could be
impressive—very fruit forward, massive tannins
and alcohol that after one glass could fatigue
the palate. JOHAN VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR ESTATES 2021 ($36)—Produced in the Van Duzer Corridor of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Johan’s wines are strictly based on biodynamic farming “using a range of homeopathic applications to promote healthy and holistic growth,” maintained over 30 acres of a biodiversity preserve, composed of calcareous sedimentary soils with non-native erratic granite rather than iron-rich volcanic soil. Winemaker Morgan Beck and Vineyard Manager Nathan Wood took advantage of 2021’s climatic virtues, and used ten grape clones to come up with the balance they sought. FERVORE SINGLE VINEYARD MAGLIOCCO DOLCE
2018 ($27)—Very slowly a group of young vintners
have been upgrading the image of hot climate
Calabrian wines, away from bulk to single
vineyards. Brothers Giuseppe and Nicola Chiapetta
and enologist Gianfranco Fino use 100% Magliocco
Dolce to produce this unusual indigenous red
(sometimes confused with Gaglioppo). It is late
ripening, which builds up the flavors and tannins.
After about 12 months of aging, the wine
is bottled without the aid of clarifiers and
without tartaric precipitation. After about 36
months of aging it is released. “Dolce” means
“sweet,” but, although it is fruit forward, the fruit has a dark intensity that
proves a 13% alcohol red wine can have remarkable
power. MAYACAMAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 ($185)
and 2009 ($300)—Mayacamas of Mount Veeder, dating
back to 1889, has released these wines separated
by ten years to show how their long-lived Cabs
mature and achieve balance. Both 2019 and 2009
were similar vintages, says winemaker Braiden
Albrecht, “Healthy winter rains, followed by a
warm but consistent summer and mild weather at
harvest, yielded fruit with great freshness and
integrity.” The 2019 spent 14 months in barriques
before bottling. The 2009 is, of course, more
mellow but has wonderful harmony, both based on
formidable fruit and softening tannins. In July
2013, Mayacamas was purchased by the Jay
Schottenstein family, positioning the historic
winery for the future by introducing fully
organic farming and an extensive restoration and
replanting of the estate vineyards. MIGUEL
TORRES CORDILLERA CARMENÈRE 2020 ($21)—A very good
price for a forceful but nuanced Carmenere from
Chile’s Valle del Cachapoal. Macerated for 20
days, fermented for 15, and aged in French oak and
Austrian foudre, it was released in May of last
year. It was a very hot, dry year, but the weather
seems to have concentrated flavors and acid at 14%
alcohol for a red wine good to drink with any
meats. LARKMEAD
SOLARI 2019 ($200)—If you like ‘em big and bold,
this is a fine example of that Napa Valley style
of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 78% new oak.
The alcohol is 14.9% and the wine can use some age
to settle things down, but this is a formidable
example of old-style California red wine making,
with spice and firm tannins. Only 946 cases
produced. BIONDI-SANTI
TENUTA GREPPO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2020 ($91)—Rosso
di Montalcino is the little brother of Brunello di
Montalcino and is usually a quaffable, dependable
Tuscan red. But since this one is from the
illustrious Biondi-Santi estate, which created
Brunello in the 19th century, there is a lot more
power and finesse. Like Brunello, it is made from
100% Sangiovese from a high altitude, and 2020 was
a cool year (including snowfall in March). The
grapes were from the estate’s youngest vines, and
the wine was aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak.
It has lovely herbal notes, a Tuscan finesse and
at 13.5% alcohol eminently drinkable right away. CHÂTEAU MONTELENA ESTATE CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2019 ($200)—The vintage produced big
berries and clusters, and flavor,
color and texture took longer to develop. Winemaker
Matt Crafton ages his estate Cab for two years in
barrel before further bottle aging. The
wine has obvious structure and power right now,
but it needs time to knit together. There’s 1%
Petit Verdot and even less Cab Franc to build up
the pretty fruit, and 14.1% alcohol is a
remarkable level that will be to the wine’s
advantage in years to come. Indeed, Crafton says,
“It is one-of-a-kind in that it can be
enjoyed at any point in its life cycle—from
release to 40 years old.” QUIVIRA BLACK BOAR
ZINFANDEL 2018 ($55)—It’s good to see some age on
this Zin, and for those who like massive,
voluptuous reds, this Sonoma County version will
do the trick handily. Its grapes are from Anderson
Ranch and Wine Creek Ranch, its name “inspired by the wild boars
that are apt to roam our hillside vineyards who
simply can’t resist our tasty fruit. They are
wild and savage like our impeccable, bold
Zinfandel.” It’s a blend of 78% Zin and 22%
Petite Syrah, which adds a lot of bright fruit
flavor and color to the depth of the Zin. It’s
aged for 18 months in French and American oak.
It’s also sold in 1.5 liter bottles for about
$150. ZENATO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO
2018 ($70)—The leathery, somewhat oxidized taste
of old-fashioned Amarone is pretty much a thing of
the past, with Veneto producers making far more
nuanced but still bold reds from a traditional
blend 85% Corvina and 10% Rondinella, with 5% each
of Croatina and Oseleta. The
grapes are dried for 4 months, turning them
raisin-like and sweet, then crushed in January,
with slow fermentation with skin contact and 36
months aging in Slavonian casks. Ideal with roast
pork or pasta with funghi porcini. KENEFICK
RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CHRIS’S CUVÉE 2019
($65)—Founded in 1978 by neurosurgeon Tom
Kenefick, this has been a labor of love. A whopper
at 15.3% alcohol, this 100% Cab (with 7% Malbec
and 6% Petit Verdot) from Calistoga has benefited
from three years of aging to moderate the tannins
and provide more levels of flavors, spice and dark
fruit. It will work well with venison, duck or
goose this fall. If you’re lucky enough to obtain
grouse, no wine would be a better match. The Chris
in question is Chris Kenefick, who took over as
CEO in 2021 when his father, Dr. Tom, passed away.
❖❖❖ AS JEAN-PAUL SARTRE ONCE SAID, "DOES THIS COME WITH CHIPS?" "Is This a Taco Bell Party or Am I Having an Existential Experience?—Dave Holmes, Esquire (8/3/23). ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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