THIS WEEK
EATING AROUND
COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG
Part One By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER
GOA NEW YORK
By John Mariani
GOING AFTER HARRY LIME
CHAPTER 31
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
NEW WINES IN THE SUMMER MARKET By John Mariani
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EATING AROUND
COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG
Part One
By
John Mariani
The Terrace
Since my last visit to
Williamsburg, Virginia, five years ago,
there have been the usual openings, closings
and revamping of restaurants in town,
especially in Colonial Williamsburg, which
rightfully is called America’s largest
“living museum” (301 acres) and a long-time
fixture on the U.S. National Register of
Historic Places. Built
on the original foundations of the 1699
settlement, what now exists is either a
restoration or recreation, and, historic
attention has been applied to many of the
dining taverns on the property, much of whose
provender comes from on-premises gardens that
surround them. Among these are Chowning’s
Tavern (temporarily closed), Christiana
Campbell’s
Tavern (open Tues.-Sat. for dinner),
where you may sample cod in the Dutch manner
($15); seafood “pye” ($49); and a recipe for
fried fish from Thomas Jefferson’s personal
cookbook ($36).Shields
Tavern is an events space. King’s
Arms Tavern (lunch daily,dinner
Thurs.-Mon.) was originally opened by
Jane Volbe in 1772, and its restoration is
highly detailed in colonial fabrics, furniture
and pewter (left).
I had a wonderful meal at King’s Arms, while
chatting with chefs Ivey Boyd and Naomi
Jarmond, that began with a superb, creamy
seafood chowder ($8 or $12) and hearty
Brunswick stew ($8 or $12), a very old dish
made with fowl, beef, corn and lima beans. Welsh rarebit ($9), once a staple of
American menus, is now rare indeed, but the
version at King’s Tavern makes you wonder why:
It is what used to be called a “savoury,” made
with melted cheddar cheese, mustard and wine,
served with country ham and moist cornbread.A
twist on old-fashioned corn pudding was mixed
with tender Carolina rice, black-eyed peas and
country ham ($13). The Virginia pork BBQ ($21)
is very true to form in these parts, slowly
smoked over applewood and served with coleslaw
and wheaten manchet breads, a flat loaf that
dates to the Middle Ages. The
desserts ($8) are every bit as good and, in
their modern presentations, quite beautiful
and big enough to be shared, including
Jefferson bread pudding with bourbon custard
sauce and southern pecan pie that is not so
achingly sweet as some versions and much
nuttier in flavor. You may also want to try
the house punch ($14) made with rum, ginger
bitters and ginger ale. You’ll find culinary references at most
of Colonial Williamsburg’s dining facilities,
but the non-tavern restaurants are more
contemporary in their menus. Upon arrival I
was famished and, fortunately, Traditions
in the Williamsburg Lodge was serving an
extensive brunch ($39.95, $18 for children)
that ranged from scrambled eggs and both cold
and hot smoked salmon to carved roast beef
with mashed potatoes. I was
so happy to find southern biscuits with a rich
cream gravy, which no one ever gets right in
the north, and they went very well with some
very crisp, very moist fried chicken. With a
well-spiked bloody Mary (or was it two?) the
meal fortified me for a memory lane walk
around the property, where I spotted new
additions like the windmill. I checked into the splendid
Williamsburg Inn, its gracious lobby festooned
with pink roses and overlooking the golf
course. Check-in took some minutes more than
anticipated,but
my room was quite beautiful and had a view of
the drive-in lane and the period buildings
beyond. The room’s furnishings were very much
in a period style that Colonial Williamsburg
made famous from its inception in the
1930s—some furniture and fabrics familiar to
me since childhood, when my mother decorated
our house with them. After a relaxing treatment in the
beautiful new spa, I dressed and went to
dinner at The
Terrace (breakfast, lunch and dinner
daily), set within the Inn. There is a
fairly lively room off the bar lounge with a
more staid adjacent room with French windows,
fine wallpaper and elegant settings. There
I sipped a cocktail while enjoying a huge
summer chopped salad made with cucumber,
quinoa, heirloom tomatoes, feta, arugula, corn
and a basil buttermilk dressing with a
semolina tuile ($16). The only reason I didn’t
finish every bite was because I needed the
appetite fora main course of
juniper-and-ginger-scented rabbit ($34), again
a very large portion, served over a hill of
beet-colored pappardelle and a citrus carrot
puree with snow peas and marinated
blackberries. For
dessert the s’mores ($14) were a sumptuous
improvement on the old campfire favorite, done
with chocolate bavarois, Graham cracker
streusel, marshmallow fluff and
cayenne-flecked Caramel shard with cacao nibs
and aerated chocolate.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
GOA NEW YORK 78 Leonard Street
646-490-4372
By John Mariani
By and large most Indian
restaurants in America toe a line first
established in England, where curry houses
developed many standard dishes like
mulligatawny soup, lamb vindaloo and rogan
josh, which were then copied everywhere else
in the West. Most were variations on dishes
from Mughal traditions dominant in
northeastern India. That culinary heritage
persists in the U.S., though in New York
more regional dishes have found their way
onto the menus of modern Indian restaurants.
Certainly
one of the most innovative is the
four-month-old Goa New York in Tribeca, on the
premises of a failed $15 million Japanese
restaurant spread over two floors, with
thirty-foot ceilings. Goa’s owner, Hemant
Bhagwani, inherited a dramatic space and has
added his own kind of dazzle in light and
shadow, including a beautiful “Tree of Life”
made of white birch, amaranth and silk set in
the dining room’s center, and a churning
origami-like ceiling sculpture called “The
Dance of the Peacocks” by Ankon Mitra. The second floor is reached by a
gangway. The dominant wall, ceiling and table
colors are dark, so the black outfits on the
waitstaff could use some brightening to add
contrast. For reasons that escape me Goa
New York is suffused with loud music, little
of the kind of sinuous Indian music that would
have an evocative effect.Booming
disco and techno are not what most people
associate with India,or
want to hear at this high decibel level.
Bhagwani
(below), who helms the Amaya Group of
Restaurants, has wide international
experience, settling in Toronto in2000,
bringing innovative Indian cuisine to the city
with 57 restaurants. including Goa Indian Farm
Kitchen, Popa Burmese, Amaya Express, Bombay
Frankie and others, but Goa New York is his
first U.S. project. Goa takes
its name from the territory on the Arabian Sea
colonized by the Dutch, who brought chili
peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, and vinegar soon
matched with the ingredients in the Goan
kitchen. The sour, acidic addition of vinegar
alone gave Goan food a special spark and
flavor distinct from Mughal, Gujarat, Punjabi,
Bengali and other cuisines. This summer they’re serving Goan-style
slaw ($19), a salad with 16 ingredients, green
chili, salted starfruit and alu
bukhara (dried plum) dressing that is a
very spicy dish indeed but absolutely
wonderful and a good perk to the appetite.
Goan prawn curry ($39) has nice fat
crustaceans in a fiery garlic and ginger
marinade that are then simmered slowly with
okra, coconut, kokum and dried mango. Tiger
shrimps balchao
($19) is infused with a spicy, vinegary
tomato and chili tamarind sauce that has a
real tang, red radish, chili oil, and it comes
on Japanese milk bread toast. There is a section of bao and pao
dishes, and one of the best is the unusual leg
of lamb bao ($19) with roast mango, red
cabbage and sriacha aïoli stuffed into a puffy
bao bun. For a fried dish, go for the
Mumbai-style rava fish fry ($21) served with
pickled red cabbage, green chili chutney and
coated with sooji
(granulated wheat) that provides layers of
textures and flavors. A robata grill is put to excellent use
in dishes like the lamb chops ($42) that have
become a staple in all of Bhagwani’s
restaurants for good reason: The chops are
grilled over charcoal, seared and still pink,
suffused with a mint fenugreek sauce and crisp
chickpea boondi.
Beef short ribs ($29) come in a hot vindaloo
style with truffled yogurt and cashew nuts. Fried rice ($23) is flecked with chorizo, shrimp and
eggs slowly cooked to absorb all the fat and
spices.
Of course, there are
those marvelous Indian breads that would vie
for any others in the world. We loved both the
naan slathered with garlic butter ($6) and the
out-of-the-ordinary red chili naan with garlic
and coriander ($7). Desserts at Indian restaurants are
often by rote, but at Goa New York you
are offered much more, like the pastel de nata
with tokaji sweet wine ($19) that is a
Portuguese dessert, and the hot, crisp,
sugared jalebi churros with sherry wine and
pistachio kulfi ($10). The wine and beer lists are above
average for any Indian restaurant. In every dish Goa New York shows Indian
cuisine as refined, very colorful and never an
amalgam of the same dishes everywhere else. As
a dining venue Goa goes well beyond any I’ve
ever seen and for Bhagwani to bring such
regional verve and innovation to New York sets
a precedent others must assuredly follow.
Dinner is
served Tuesday through Sunday .
❖❖❖
GOING AFTER
HARRY LIME
By John
Mariani
To read previous
chapters of GOING AFTER HARRY LIME go
to thearchive
CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE
Now,thought Katie, how much to tell Mr. Boyer
and Mr. Spollen? Out of professional courtesy
they would probably give her whatever
information they had, hoping it would keep them
in good stead with McClure’s,
which paid better than their newspapers. But, as
journalists, they would be more than a little
curious as to what tree Katie was barking up.
Would it be something they should follow up on? Katie knew she couldn’t tell them anything
that was not the God’s honest truth, but she
didn’t have to tell them everything.Gorgo
Toth seemed outside of her inquiry about Philby,
but the Brits would want to know the reason for
her asking whether any of their papers’ writers
had ever gone to Moscow in search of Philby. She
could fudge things by simply saying she and David
had heard, while they were in Moscow, that other
journalists had tried to find out if Philby were
still alive or maybe just to nose around Philby’s
posthumous affairs, perhaps get his wife to reveal
something new about the man. Beyond that, Katie
would have to wait and see what her colleagues
would try to drag out of her. She got Christopher Boyer on the phone
first. He reminded Katie he’d briefly met her in
New York at a McClure’s
office party a few years back. Katie feigned
remembering and said, “So, Christopher”—she didn’t
know if he went by Chris—“I’m working on a story I
hope you can help me with.” “Maybe so,” he replied, “though I’ll
probably be pissed wondering why Alan didn’t
assign it to me.” “Oh, it’s not a London story,” she said
quickly. She then went on to explain how she was
looking for Harry Lime and, noting that she wasn’t
the first to make the connection to Kim Philby,
she said she had been to Moscow to find what they
could about the man.” “But Philby’s been dead, for what, ten
years?” “Well, that’s part of my story,” she said,
then cut him off with, “How about lunch tomorrow?” “On Alan, I trust?” “Of course. Wherever you’d like to eat.” Boyer did not hesitate. “Wilton’s on Jermyn
Street, off Piccadilly. One o’clock. I’ll make the
reservation. For the two of us?” “Actually three. I’m here with a friend and
colleague named David Greco.” “Three then. Under my name. Oh, are you
speaking with any other newspaper people over
here?” Katie was not embarrassed to say she was
about to call Thomas Spollen. “Do you know him?” “Oh, Tom and I go back a long ways. He used
to work for the Times. How about I invite him along
for lunch tomorrow?” Katie happily said that would be fine,
interview two birds over one meal. “Done deal,”
she said. “See you at one.”
***
Wilton’s was one of the
oldest restaurants in London, dating back to 1742,
when George II was king of England.
Known for its traditional French-influenced
British fare—oysters, potted shrimp, game in
season, a carving trolley and desserts like bread
and butter pudding—the dining rooms had worn far
better than some of the city’s historic
restaurants. Etched glass, equestrian prints,
carving trolleys and Edwardian décor gave it a
timeless look, even though it had been at its
Jermyn Street address only since 1984, immediately
identifiable by its lighted sign of a top-hat
wearing prawn with a cocktail in his claw. It was
the kind of restaurant London journalists felt
quite at home in—if someone else were paying—but
one where David Grecothought
he’d feel out of place. “Place looks like something out of a Rex
Harrison movie,” he whispered to Katie as they
entered. He was wearing his worn blazer and had
stuck a crumpled necktie in its pocket if needed. “What’s wrong with that once in a while?”
asked Katie, who earlier that day had purchased a
proper British tweed hacking jacket at DAKS, right
on Jermyn Street. David had spent the time looking
in the windows of the shoe stores and bespoke
tailor shops without prices on the clothing.As much
as he loved being with Katie, shopping with a
woman was not among his favorite activities. They
announced
to the proper but amiable maître d’ they were in
the Boyer party, were acknowledged as such and
shown to a fine, linen-draped alcove table in a
dining room off the bar. Around them were arrayed
the kind of Europeans said to be “of a certain
age,” both men and women who seemed to have little
more to do that day than spend most of it at
Wilton’s. Boyer and Spollen arrived together, both
dressed in dark suits, without a necktie—which
relieved David—and brown shoes, not quite a
uniform but hinting at a kind of adapted newsman
look that wore well for lunch and into dinner.
Boyer was tall and David would not have been
surprised to find he’d once played rugby. Spollen
was slight, his red hair tousled and re-tousled
throughout the meal. To David they both spoke with
the same accent, but Katie picked up the sound of
a higher class in the way Spollen spoke, while
Boyer dropped the last letters of many words in
his short sentences. David was already feeling miserable,
believing he couldn’t possibly lend anything to
the conversation, which was sure to be newspaper
business bullshit. Most of it was. At least through the main
course and two bottles of wine. Boyer had asked
Katie how high could they go in price on the wine
before Dobell threw a fit. “Let’s try to keep it
under fifty pounds a bottle,” she said. Over Colchester oysters, smoked eel and
Devonshire crab they spoke of Alan Dobell and McClure’s.
Over the grilled Dover sole, roast pheasant and a
mixed grill of beef, lamb, kidney and black
pudding they gossiped about London media and Bill
Clinton’s sex life. Finally, Boyer said, “Well, I
suppose we need to speak about whatever it is you
want to speak about, Katie. How can we help?” David remained silent, pouring himself the
last of the wine.Katie began her story, how they’d been on
the trail of Harry Lime and the possible
connection to Kim Philby.She
glanced at David and said softly, “Now what I’m
about to tell you two gentleman is confidential.
O.K.? Off the record?” Boyer and Spollen chimed, “Of course, of
course.” The dessert arrived, and coffee brought.
Katie told them as briefly as possible about their
meetings with Southey and Lentov and how they went
to Moscow to meet the man Lentov said was a dying
Philby.She
told them about their meeting with the Russians in
Moscow and the MI6 officials at Heathrow. Then she
said nothing, waiting for it to sink in with the
Brits. “Good God, Katie, that is quite the
story,” said Spollen, smiling broadly. “I can’t
believe Philby is still alive and you spoke to
him.” “And you’re sure the people you spoke to
were the Philbys?” asked Boyer. “Could they have
been actors?” David spoke up. “They were definitely the
Philbys. I used to interrogate people for a living
and these were not actors.” “And so what is it you think we might know
about all this?” asked Boyer. Katie had not said anything about Harold
Neame and Gorgo Toth, though she felt she might
have to. “Well, in order to dispel or refute what
the Russians and MI6 told us,” she said, “we’ve
got to find out if there ever have been any
journalists who ever went to Moscow on assignment
in order to find Philby. Has either of your papers
ever assigned anyone like that?” Both the men had been on the international
desk for quite some time and Katie could see they
were wracking their memory for any possibility of
such a scenario. Boyer said, “I don’t know about the Guardian,
Tom, but nothing like that has ever been assigned
at the Times
that I know of.I certainly would have heard about it and
it would have had to be approved by my desk.” Spollen was silent for a moment, then said,
“I don’t recall anyone ever getting such an
assignment. But something in the back of my mind
rings a faint bell that there was a freelancer who
proposed such a venture, perhaps nine or ten years
back. He didn’t get the assignment from us, so I
have no idea if he ever went on his own.” “Do
you
remember his name?” asked David, taking out his
pen. Spollen searched his memory, then said, “I
seem to recall his name was . . . Pogue, yes,
Jonathan Pogue. He’d written a few Sunday Magazine
stories for us.” “But you don’t know if he ever went to
Moscow on his own?” asked Katie. “Not that I heard.Certainly
no story ever appeared.” Boyer then said, “Ah, I remember that
fellow Pogue. Young and impetuous, always seemed
to be following some fantastic lead that never had
enough behind it to garner an assignment. Not sure
he ever wrote for us.” “Do you know where we might find him?”
asked Katie. “Easy enough to find out,” said Spollen,
taking out his cell phone and dialing the desk at
the Times.“Hello,
Ruth, Spollen here.Can you look up the name of a freelancer
for me? Name of Jonathan Pogue. Wrote a few pieces
for us a while back. Thanks so much.Call me
back, will you?” Both the Brits sensed there was something
more behind Katie and David’s escapade to Moscow,
something that had more to do with Harry Lime than
Kim Philby. Katie could see it in their demeanor
and knew they wanted professional courtesy to
shift to their side of the table. “Can we ask what Philby told you when you
saw him?” said Boyer. “Did the bastard seem
repentant? Happy to be living it up in those
Moscow nights? And did he say anything about
Lime?” Katie spoke in a measured way. “He
certainly didn’t seem content with how things were
ending for him, which included his premature
burial in the Moscow cemetery. He did seem very
concerned—and his wife said so, too—to let the
world know that he was not the monster the world
thought he was. And he said very clearly that he
was on the verge of dying soon. I think he somehow
believed we might tell his side of the story, or
his version of it.” “And about Lime?” “He absolutely denied it and seemed
frustrated anyone would ever make such a
connection.” Boyer was squinting slightly, asking, “So
he never suggested who Harry Lime might have been?
Or, should I say, whomever it was Greene based him
on?” David looked at Katie as if to say, this
really is your
project and your
people so do what you have to do. “I’m sorry, guys,” she said, “that’s a part
of my story I’m still trying to figure out. I will
say that Philby made a suggestion as to who he
thought it might have been.” “Another double agent?” asked Spollen. “I don’t think so. I don’t think he had
anything to do with MI6 after the war. And
besides, David and I have nothing definite on his
whereabouts.” David spoke up, saying, “I checked all the
official files both in the U.S. and here in the
archives and they all say he either escaped or was
killed or just faded away.” Now Boyer was looking very serious. “I
completely understand, Katie, but if you want us
to check our newspaper files on the name, I’m
happy to do it, if you
tell me the name, that is.” Katie replied, “That’s very generous of
you, Christopher, but I did check the newspaper
files yesterday while I was looking for any Philby
stories your papers might have done in the last
five to ten years.” “Yes, well, we have deeper files than what
you might have seen. Let me see what I can find
out. If you give me the name.” Katie looked at David, who shrugged. “Still off the record?” asked Katie.Both the
Brits crossed their hearts like little boys.
“Okay, the name Philby gave us was Neame, Harold
Neame.” “Well, it doesn’t ring any bells with me,”
said Spollen, “but we’ll have a look.”
Spollen’s
phone went off. “Ruth? Find anything? Uh-huh. Right. Ten
years ago. Right, right. Okay, thanks so much.” The three others looked wide-eyed at
Spollen. “Well, my secretary looked him up and had a
phone number and address, but there was a note
attached saying that Mr. Pogue died about ten
years ago.Odd,
he was quite young, as I recall, about
twenty-eight or so at the time.” “Did your secretary say how or where?” “No, just that the paper only found out
he’d died after we tried to contact him for a
possible assignment. Ruth tried to find an obit
for him, but nothing turned up.” “Well,” said Spollen, “We’ve got
deadlines—at least I have—so we shall leave you to
pay the check on Alan’s behalf and speak to you
later this afternoon if we find anything out, all
right?” Katie thanked the two men
profusely—reminding them this was all off the
record—while David felt relieved they were
leaving.Katie
paid the bill, which was more than any she’d ever
paid on assignment, chalking it up to the strength
of the pound Sterling. The two Americans were very
graciously shown out onto Jermyn Street to catch a
cab back to their hotel. “They will keep—what do they say over
here?—mum about all we told them?” asked David.“Absolutely,” said Katie. “If you swore
another cop to secrecy, wouldn’t he keep it to
himself?”
“Probably not.”
The release of wines, which once occurred
in fall and spring, is now due to myriad factors
that have to do with their aging, their seasonal
interest (like rosés) and the ebb and flow of
supply in the market. Here are some very good ones
I’ve discovered recently.
DOMAINE MONTROSE SALAMANDRE 2019
($24). Despite the fact that Bernard and Olivier
Coste make only 8,000 of Salamandre, it is
remarkably low priced. Its appellation is Côtes de
Thongue in the South of France, and is a blend of
60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah, vinified
separately then blended at the end of winter before
aging for 18 months in barrel. The Syrah adds
measurably to the fruitiness of the wine while the
Cabernet provides tannic structure, so this is a
fine red wine for beef, lamb or pork.
CHÂTEAU DES ADOUZES
FAUGÈRES PINOT NOIR 2019($13).
The château is located in the village of Roquessels
with the Faugères AOP, where wines are made from
Carignan and Grenache, to which the chateau adds 30%
Syrah. These are the kind of provincial French wines
we’re seeing more of in the U.S. market after years
when loftier châteaux boosted their prices without
distinctive quality. This bottling has nuance, a
peppery touch and excellent fruit, ideal for simple
cookery, stews, beans and burgers.
ABADIA RETUERTA SELLECIÓN ESPECIAL 2017
($40). Composed of 77%
Tempranillo, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah, Merlot, Petit
Verdot and Garnacha, Selección Especial
is the first wine from this prestigious Spanish
vintner in which the best wines of the vintage are
selected and blended together from54
distinct plots. Abadia’s vineyards largely avoided
2017’s frost problem in the Duero region, and its
modern technology allowed enologist Angel
Anocíbar Beloqui to produce a beautiful, elegant red
that is ready to drink right now, with plenty of
texture and layers of flavor.
OLIVIER COSTE CARIGNAN
BLANC 2022 ($23). You almost never see a 100% white
Carignan, which is a red grape from the Languédoc,
so you may call it an oddity or a real find.
Generally Carignan is a sturdy varietal, so even as
a white wine it had minerality and floral bouquet,
so it makes a lovely aperitif as well as a simple
accompaniment to simple seafood.
SMALL VINES TBH VINEYARD
CHARDONNAY 2018($55). Organic vineyards are the basis for
this estate, planted in 2009,that
enjoys coastal cooling from Sebastopol’s winds in
Sonoma. The wine is barrel fermented and unfined,
giving it an early but not overpowering flavor of
the oak. The alcohol is 13.6%, and this is to be
enjoyed with shellfish, both raw and cooked, as well
as with mild cheeses.
MOUNT VEEDER WINERY
CHARDONNAY 2021 ($50). Los Carneros is said to be
one of the best terroirs for Chardonnay, and this
bottling, from Giovannoni Ranch, shows why in its
fine structure and layers of flavors with good acid.
Yields were lower that year but the juice more
intense, and the wine is 14.5% alcohol, so you must
like that kind of boldness in your Chardonnay. It
goes especially well with oily fishes like blues and
sardines.
CONDE VALDEMAR CRIANZA 2018 ($20).
Another good buy for a very good Spanish wine made
with 89% Tempranillo, 7% Mazuelo and 4% Graciano
grapes from Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta that would
rank with much more expensive red wines. They are
easy enough to drink in warm weather but are every
bit as delicious with roast meats later in the year
and Ideal for an array of tapas.
❖❖❖
HANDS? ANYONE?
"WhoWants to
Die on Vacation?" by Molly Osberg, New York Magazine
(June 2023).
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.